From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Fri Mar 1 00:21:57 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Chuxter's Oil Pan Thread Problem Message-ID: >Chuxter asks via Ben: > >Has anyone had any success using any of the thread maker products on oil > >pan drain threads? Morgan Billingslea replies... > Not on car drain pan threads, I've never tried. I have a kit from >Loctite, the usual deal w/ an epoxy like substance w/ a release agent that >goes on the bolt/fastener. Worked very well on my neighbor's crankcase drain >on his motorcycle. It was an aluminum case & plug I believe. OK. This thread is beginning to ring some bells in my head! Maybet a botched drainplug repair job on my '88 Ram 50 led to the untimely death of its transmission. Here are the facts. The tranny died about a year after I bought the truck. When I dropped the pan, I noticed some plastic material around the drainplug and chewed up chunks of similar plastic in the drainpan. Maybe that repair material got loose and ruined the internals, just as another MMLer wrote yesterday... Best regards, CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rrudd28 at nwebs.com Fri Mar 1 00:29:19 2002 From: rrudd28 at nwebs.com (The Disappearing Boy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Senate Bill STOP Message-ID: <01f901c1c0ea$6d1f90b0$135b58d8@user> Waaaaaait a second, Back the truck up here. They want to buy every car over 15 years? These are the same people who paid 700 bucks for a toilet seat and screwdrivers! This means my Imperial should be worth millions! Hell, the lug wrench alone is probably good for 3-4000 bucks! I like this, cause it'll put Frank Mitchell out of business. Even HE can't beat those prices! Ray Funke 69 Fury 3 ragtop 70 Imperial LeBaron 4dr HT And not one shred of truth to this at all To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net Fri Mar 1 04:55:39 2002 From: bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net (Bryan Rupp) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Fuel injected 6-pack idea and machined aluminum goodies Message-ID: <3C7F5E2B.9301622D@acsalaska.net> For a couple of years I have been toying with the idea of building a fuel injection system using a 6-pack as the bases for the unit. Till now I wasn't sure how I would fabricate some of the parts. Well at the end of this summer I will be moving from Alaska back to Florida and will have access to several CNC machines. Both my friend that has the machines and myself are electronic technicians so I don't forsee any problem with mating an off the shelf computer with a custom chip. The parts that will be machined will mainly be three throtle bodies that will have the same general dimensions of the two barrel Holley carb so the air filter will remain in the proper position along with a few other parts. Since the CNC machines are computer controled via programs once one part is made making more will be easy. The only tuff part of the conversion will require welding pads on to an aluminum intake and then machining them out to fit the fuel injector in to. Does anyone see any problems with this idea and am I the only one with crazy ideas like this or are there other MML members out there interested in seeing this done? While on the subject of machining aluminum parts I have seen several companies selling machined engine goodies for brand x stuff but very little for Mopars. One item I'm thinking of is air cleaner tops with custom lettering. Is there anything that MML'ers would like to see done for Mopars? If I can come up with a good amount of items I would like to start a business making stuff just for Chrylsers. And yes, I will give a discount to those on the MML and I won't mail you fliers. :-) Bryan Rupp 1973 Factory Caterpillar powered Dodge C800 semi To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ehenness at juno.com Fri Mar 1 06:19:39 2002 From: ehenness at juno.com (Ed Hennessy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: <20020301.071947.20596.51899@wm3.jersey.juno.com> Pete in PA Engel tells of us his exploits: >I was working in a small rural PA junkyard in the >late 70s/early 80s. [...] >Then there was the time we tried to drive cars >after removing all the shock absorbers...... C'mon Pete! Don't leave us in suspense... Ed Hennessy ehenness@juno.com ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ehenness at juno.com Fri Mar 1 07:01:58 2002 From: ehenness at juno.com (Ed Hennessy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Senate Bill S.1766 Message-ID: <20020301.080205.20596.51935@wm3.jersey.juno.com> I just checked this bill out. It's a national energy policy bill. There's a lot of things in this bill, not all of which may be problematic. Section 803, the one in question for us, does not create a national scrappage program by itself at all. It actually proposes to establish grants to states that establish scrappage programs. It also only gives grants if there is a) money appropriated to do so, and b) if that money is still available when a state applies. Right now the bill has been read twice in the Senate and has been placed on the calendar for further action on the floor. It is currently number 259 (meaning 258 other bills are ahead of it on the calendar). So, yes, we should be concerned, and contact our US Senators about this, but we should also be aware that there are still a lot of hurdles it must jump even if it passes. The final decsion still comes from states. Even if this passes the Senate, it has to go through the House (and may get edited there, too). Right now, there's a House national energy plan bill but it is smaller and has no similar provision. Ultimately, Bush needs to sign it or have his veto overridden. Should all that happen, a particular state needs to pass their own scrappage bill (some of course will be reluctant) in order to get the grants in the original version of the bill (assuming it stays the same as written now). So, let's contact our Senators now and show concern over section 803, so we can help persuade them to edit it out of future versions. Those of us in states with co-sponsoring Senators should especially make contact. That includes those of us in Massachusetts, since Sen. Kerry is a co-sponsor. So are Senators Akaka, Dorgan, Bingaman, Johnson, and Hollings. Sen. Daschle was the sponsor. Ed Hennessy ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From prysm at snet.net Fri Mar 1 07:15:21 2002 From: prysm at snet.net (TM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Senate bill STOP Message-ID: <3C7F7EE9.6020901@snet.net> Hi all, I just emailed my representatives about this issue. I'm so sick of these people that vote on their own raises telling me , the guy that pays for that raise, what I can and can't do. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dstaxpro at lex.infi.net Fri Mar 1 08:42:46 2002 From: dstaxpro at lex.infi.net (Don Sowers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: How do I unlock an engine? Message-ID: <3C7F9366.5030705@lex.infi.net> Jon Miconi wrote: >When I was trying to unlock my truck's old slant six, a friend >reccomended using Marvel Mystery Oil or tranny fluid. It is thinner >then motor oil so it will be easier for it to get past the rings. > Although I used this combo on a totally different engine, mixing kerosene and A/T fluid eventuallt broke the engine loose on my 83 RX7. Yes, I know it is a rotary engine with Teflon seals, but I just thought I would mention it..... I've got an older car (1969 model) that MAY have a stuck engine, so I might be addressing this issue myself here shortly... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Fri Mar 1 08:55:08 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Tuff wheels Message-ID: <3C7F41EC.28044.930F0EF@localhost> > anyone know of someplace that refurbishes Tuff Wheels. Try this guy: J & J Productions 203-261-5604 Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From normc at scamp.osullivan.com Fri Mar 1 09:32:36 2002 From: normc at scamp.osullivan.com (Norman Cornell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Rocker arm spacers Message-ID: <008b01c1c136$50d7cfc0$39acf3cf@normancornell> Does anyone have a set of rocker arm spacers from an adjustable rocker valvetrain for a smallblock they can part with? I need 8 of them. Thanks, Norm - Golden City, MO ----- http://scamp.osullivan.com 1982 Plymouth Voyager * 1993 Dodge Stealth SE (15.58@89) 1971 Plymouth Fury Gran Coupe 360 (paisley top and interior) 1972 Plymouth Scamp 360 (15.42@91 / TBD on nitrous) 1973 Plymouth Scamp 360 (12.27@112 / 11.53@117 on nitrous) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com Fri Mar 1 09:43:11 2002 From: Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com (Graham.Barnard@jdsu.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: How do I unlock an engine? Message-ID: trany fluid does a great job of loosening up an engine. Years ago there was an old 2.2 Dodge Caravan at the shop. The engine was stuck from sitting for years. We could not turn the engine with a breaker bar and a 3-foot pipe on the end. The boss filled the cylinders with tranny fluid and let it sit for a few days. He was able to start turning the engine over with the bar and dumped in some more fluid. Repeated this for awhile and eventually the engine turned over with the starter. Of course, when we did get the engine running, it smoked really bad for 4 hours before it cleared up. After that it ran great. Graham. '71 demon 340/4-speed (only smoke is from the tires!) Don Sowers @mopar.tamu.edu on 03/01/2002 09:42:46 AM Although I used this combo on a totally different engine, mixing kerosene and A/T fluid eventuallt broke the engine loose on my 83 RX7. Yes, I know it is a rotary engine with Teflon seals, but I just thought I would mention it..... I've got an older car (1969 model) that MAY have a stuck engine, so I might be addressing this issue myself here shortly... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jpilone at bellsouth.net Fri Mar 1 10:05:53 2002 From: jpilone at bellsouth.net (Jarrod Pilone) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Did I get a decent deal? Message-ID: <000a01c1c13a$f77098e0$3901a8c0@jarrod> last night I picked up a 40,000 mile motorhome '73 steel crank 440. along with that I got a rust and dent free front fender for my convertible (with a perfect marker light) for a grand total of $420! I think I got a good deal.... anyone? Jarrod jpilone@bellsouth.net http://www.mopar-man.com '69 Dart 4 dr '70 Road Runner 'Vert '72 Demon '73 Dart Swinger Kyosho V-one-R, OFNA OB4 Pro, HPI Nitro Rush, Traxxas T-maxx "A Friend Asked Me If I Wanted A Frozen Banana & I Said 'No, But I Want A Regular Banana Later, So... Yeah.' " To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Fri Mar 1 10:10:47 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Senate bill STOP Message-ID: When this Bill first became public about 2 months ago, I emailed both my senators, I live in NY, and I never received any type of response. I doubt they actually ever saw the emails. Doc "Don Rey" >Subject: Re: Senate bill STOP >Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:32:36 -0500 > >I looked this Senate Bill up, and unfortunately Ms. Mopar's summary of the >bill was all too accurate. I agree that we need to so something about >this... To read about the bill (S.1786, Sec. 803) go to www.senate.gov, >scroll down to "Bill Search" and in the search "by Number" field, type >S.1766 and click go. Scroll down to Section 803, and there you have it. >PLEASE contact your State Senator to stop this. Call, write, even e-mail >him or her about it. You can find out how to contact your Senator at the D _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From pselosge at erols.com Fri Mar 1 10:16:39 2002 From: pselosge at erols.com (Paul Elosge) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Subject: Middle Eastern Fuel Message-ID: <001f01c1c13c$78ed4a20$b76d2c42@pavilion> "Kenneth Mayer" writes: > What ticks me is the scientific illiteracy that is driving politics. The > tree huggers are demanding electric and fuel cell powered vehicles. Where > does the electricity come from? From power plants that are operating at 27% > efficiency. Subtract all the losses and inefficiencies down to the vehicle > batteries and the overall efficiency is down to less than the efficiency of > current vehicles. Ditto with fuel cells. Its nice technology for space > travel, but where does the hydrogen come from? Electrolysis requires > electricity, which requires power plants. The "renewable" sources simply > shift the energy conversion and greenhouse gas production to a power plant > instead of the roadway. It's not just the tree huggers pushing the fuel cell bit. Take a look the the most recent direction the Bush administration and the auto industry has taken with respect to fuel economy and such. They held a joint news conference on the subject just a few weeks ago. What they are essentially doing is pushing fuel cell technology in the more distant future to forestall tighter fuel economy standards in the near future. I agree the CAFE standards are badly flawed, but hell will freeze over before a more reasonable alternative is implemented. The fairest way to encourage fuel economy is through price (ie, tax policy), and no way is that going to happen in the current political climate. Of course, first there has to be some agreement that reduction in consumption is desirable, and we're not close to that either. With regard to the science of things like fuel cells, producing a car using them is just the start of the problem. As Ken indicated, where does the fuel for it come from? Aside from that, we have an enormous investment in the current fuel production and delivery infrastructure. We would have to come up with an equivalent one for the fuel cells. I remember two much simpler changes that required a new "fuel" for cars. Take the diesel car as it became relatively popular in the 1970s. It's a big problem to make diesel fuel available on a large scale basis. In that time frame, diesel fuel was available for the most part only at truck stops on major highways. Not at a good percentage of neighborhood gas stations, where it eventually became available. When my father got his 1974 Peugeot 504 Diesel, it came with a directory of diesel stations for the USA in the glove box so that you wouldn't become stranded without fuel. Taking a long trip in the car into unfamiliar territory took a higher degree of planning than with a gasoline car. The other example is the electric car in recent times. How do you charge it? Even the plug became a matter of contention. One group of auto manufacturers wanted a system using direct physical electrical contacts, whereas the other group (led by GM) wanted an inductive pickup. GM wanted their system because they thought it to be safer with no "exposed" physical contacts. In the end, there was no agreement, and the electric car has kind of faded out as other things like hybrid gas/electric or the latest fuel cell technologies are pursued. Another example of scientific illiteracy that I find almost humorous with regard to global warming and CO2 emissions is the concept of "clean coal". Clean coal technology is a worthy goal and does indeed reduce many emissions, but CO2 is not one of them. It's darn hard to get around the fact that as a fuel, coal is one of the highest in terms of carbon content, resulting in the generation of the highest outputs of CO2 compared to natural gas or petroleum. You really have a hard time getting around the basic equation of C + O2 = CO2. The term "clean coal" is often used to obfuscate the discussion on CO2 emissions, equating it to the reductions that were made in auto tail pipe emissions since the 1960s. The reduction in tail pipe emissions were basically attempts to move combustion in the car closer to the basic chemical equations of hydrogen + oxygen = water, and carbon + oxygen = carbon dioxide by having complete combustion and mimimizing the other incidental reactions such as the formation of oxides of nitrogen and sulfur. Minimizing CO2 production with burning coal would essentially be eliminating the primary thing that produces the energy output! The thing that is really driving the coal issue is that the USA is very strong in coal resources, and relatively weak in natural gas and oil resources. > Politicians are color blind...they can only see green. Is that green as in the color of money, or green as in the color of trees? ;-) Paul Elosge - 1965 Imperial Crown * 1971 Plymouth Duster * 1993 Chrysler Concorde - To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sublime at voyager.net Fri Mar 1 10:32:14 2002 From: sublime at voyager.net (sublime@voyager.net) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Did I get a decent deal? Message-ID: <20020301163214.DF08B23A8E@debian.voyager.net> Sounds like a sweet deal! My dad and I just picked up a '77 motorhome with 360 and 75,000 miles for $500 and I thought that was a deal. Although the 360 has a bad knock in it. Later, Kent Kent G. Olsen - Minnesota "MoPar Spoken Here" > last night I picked up a 40,000 mile motorhome '73 steel crank 440. along > with that I got a rust and dent free front fender for my convertible (with a > perfect marker light) for a grand total of $420! > > I think I got a good deal.... anyone? > > Jarrod > > jpilone@bellsouth.net http://www.mopar-man.com > '69 Dart 4 dr '70 Road Runner 'Vert '72 Demon '73 Dart Swinger > Kyosho V-one-R, OFNA OB4 Pro, HPI Nitro Rush, Traxxas T-maxx > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com Fri Mar 1 10:32:41 2002 From: Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com (Graham.Barnard@jdsu.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Fuel injected 6-pack idea and machined aluminum goodies Message-ID: I think I read somewhere that Holley was working on a 6-pak fuel injection set-up. I'll have to look it up and get back to you. Graham. '71 Demon (carb equipped for now). Bryan Rupp @mopar.tamu.edu on 03/01/2002 05:55:39 AM For a couple of years I have been toying with the idea of building a fuel injection system using a 6-pack as the bases for the unit. Till now I wasn't sure how I would fabricate some of the parts. Well at the end of this summer I will be moving from Alaska back to Florida and will have access to several CNC machines. Both my friend that has the machines and myself are electronic technicians so I don't forsee any problem with mating an off the shelf computer with a custom chip. The parts that will be machined will mainly be three throtle bodies that will have the same general dimensions of the two barrel Holley carb so the air filter will remain in the proper position along with a few other parts. Since the CNC machines are computer controled via programs once one part is made making more will be easy. The only tuff part of the conversion will require welding pads on to an aluminum intake and then machining them out to fit the fuel injector in to. Does anyone see any problems with this idea and am I the only one with crazy ideas like this or are there other MML members out there interested in seeing this done? While on the subject of machining aluminum parts I have seen several companies selling machined engine goodies for brand x stuff but very little for Mopars. One item I'm thinking of is air cleaner tops with custom lettering. Is there anything that MML'ers would like to see done for Mopars? If I can come up with a good amount of items I would like to start a business making stuff just for Chrylsers. And yes, I will give a discount to those on the MML and I won't mail you fliers. :-) Bryan Rupp To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mml at heminet.com Fri Mar 1 10:54:15 2002 From: mml at heminet.com (Ted Moore) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: MMLers - Happy Friday! Pete wrote: >Then there was the time we tried to drive cars >after removing all the shock absorbers...... Ed Wrote: Wouldn't that be "without suspension" or "suspensionless"? Ted Moore - Carefree, AZ www.heminet.com www.TnTNetwork.com Web Sites and Databases 70 RR F8 Dark Green 383; 86 Daytona Turbo Z/CS - White; 75 XCab D200 Adventurer SE 440 Copper; 87 Shelby Lancer (5spd #252); 89 LeBaron GT Vert - White To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From harling at cadence.com Fri Mar 1 11:37:10 2002 From: harling at cadence.com (Dan Harling) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Subject: Middle Eastern Fuel Message-ID: <0D3972F302D58440BD35BF14DC48AF5604F5DA@exmbx01chel.global.cadence.com> > From: Paul Elosge [mailto:pselosge@erols.com] > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 11:17 AM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: Re: Subject: Middle Eastern Fuel > > "Kenneth Mayer" writes: > > > Politicians are color blind...they can only see green. > > Is that green as in the color of money, or green as in the > color of trees? That depends... is there money in trees? :-p _________________________________________________________________________ Daniel A. Harling <>< Member of Consulting Staff Cadence Design Systems http://www.cadence.com Chelmsford, MA To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bc157 at lafn.org Fri Mar 1 11:51:53 2002 From: bc157 at lafn.org (Jeff Chong) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: How do I unlock an engine? Message-ID: A few years ago in '98, I went with a buddy to go pick up a '49 Buick Super, straight 8, from an old man who had bought it used many decades before and let it sit. When we got it home, the last registration we could find in the car was 1956, and the engine wouldn't turn over at all. It was a Dynaflow automatic, so we coudn't put it in high gear and push it back and forth to break the engine loose. So, we pulled all the plugs and poured a mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and auto tranny fluid into the cylinders. We had never done anything like this before, but this is what everyone said would work. A few weeks later, we put a socket, breaker bar, and about 6 feet of cheater pipe on the breaker bar on the damper bolt and started to rock it back and forth. After a while, we noticed the engine starting to turn, ever so slightly. After some more rocking, it started to turn more, and eventually, we got it to turn over all the way. Then, we got the radiator rebuilt, and put it in with new hoses and belts, and the motor turned freely with the starter and fired right up. We drove it around the block and it ran pretty good. Jeff >Jon Miconi wrote: > >>When I was trying to unlock my truck's old slant six, a friend >>reccomended using Marvel Mystery Oil or tranny fluid. It is thinner >>then motor oil so it will be easier for it to get past the rings. >> >Although I used this combo on a totally different engine, mixing >kerosene and A/T fluid eventuallt broke the engine loose on my 83 RX7. > Yes, I know it is a rotary engine with Teflon seals, but I just >thought I would mention it..... I've got an older car (1969 model) that >MAY have a stuck engine, so I might be addressing this issue myself here >shortly... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Fri Mar 1 12:09:28 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: How do I unlock an engine?- a sad story!! Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B2887@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> When I was about 15 we used to hang at a friends house who had this old guy for a neighbor. In his backyard sat a 50 something Imperial convertible (is that possible?). The top was down and it was literally FILLED with leaves and water!! He told us we could have it if we got it out of there. We drained the water and removed the leaves. Got an air pump and pumped up the tires. Through a can of gas in the tank with a splash for the carb. "Stole" the battery out of my friends moms car and believe it or not......it started! Huge clouds of blue smoke!!!!! Reverse wouldnt work so we drove it across the neighbors yard!!! He called the cops but we kept on going! Drove it about a mile to a church parking lot and RAN!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh Well, the weekend is here and if I have a driveshaft waiting for me in the driveway the Challenger may ride again!!! Have a great One! "smokin" Joe -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Chong [mailto:bc157@lafn.org] Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 12:52 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Re: How do I unlock an engine? A few years ago in '98, I went with a buddy to go pick up a '49 Buick Super, straight 8, from an old man who had bought it used many decades before and let it sit. When we got it home, the last registration we could find in the car was 1956, and the engine wouldn't turn over at all. It was a Dynaflow automatic, so we coudn't put it in high gear and push it back and forth to break the engine loose. So, we pulled all the plugs and poured a mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and auto tranny fluid into the cylinders. We had never done anything like this before, but this is what everyone said would work. A few weeks later, we put a socket, breaker bar, and about 6 feet of cheater pipe on the breaker bar on the damper bolt and started to rock it back and forth. After a while, we noticed the engine starting to turn, ever so slightly. After some more rocking, it started to turn more, and eventually, we got it to turn over all the way. Then, we got the radiator rebuilt, and put it in with new hoses and belts, and the motor turned freely with the starter and fired right up. We drove it around the block and it ran pretty good. Jeff >Jon Miconi wrote: > >>When I was trying to unlock my truck's old slant six, a friend >>reccomended using Marvel Mystery Oil or tranny fluid. It is thinner >>then motor oil so it will be easier for it to get past the rings. >> >Although I used this combo on a totally different engine, mixing >kerosene and A/T fluid eventuallt broke the engine loose on my 83 RX7. > Yes, I know it is a rotary engine with Teflon seals, but I just >thought I would mention it..... I've got an older car (1969 model) that >MAY have a stuck engine, so I might be addressing this issue myself here >shortly... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dakranz at premier1.net Fri Mar 1 12:28:12 2002 From: dakranz at premier1.net (Dave Kranz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: torque strap Message-ID: <3C7FC83C.83193C54@premier1.net> Thanks to everyone that replied. I just got off the phone with Shumacher and will be recieving one next week. Dave daty rogers wrote: > Schumacher Creative Services sells a great one. Also there are > mighty mites engine mount insulators that have a captured bolt/nut > that hold the insulator together. > > http://www.engine-swaps.com/ > > -Daty > > > Where can I find/order one of these for my '66 Coronet? I've searched > > Jegs, Summit and PST to no avail. Maybe I don't have the right name for > > the part. The part that keeps the engine from torqueing up when you > > launch. Goes between the K frame and block. Thanks for any pointers. > > > > Dave To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Fri Mar 1 13:00:09 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Senate Bill S.1766 Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C7919756057F94@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 13:01:58 GMT From: Ed Hennessy >I just checked this bill out. It's a national >energy policy bill. There's a lot of things in >this bill, not all of which may be problematic. If you go to the Summit Racing page http://www.summitracing.com/ and follow the link to details on the bill there is another link to a SEMA page that will look up your legislators and format an email for you to send off. I sent one off to the illustrious senators from Massachusetts a couple of weeks ago. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Dyatona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http:\\www.geocities.com\dgc333 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From maark at wrlc.org Fri Mar 1 13:21:22 2002 From: maark at wrlc.org (Got MoPar ? aar.mopar.cc) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Fuel injected 6-pack idea and machined aluminum goodies Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020301141533.00ad50d8@wrlc.org> The new Street Rodder magazine has an article on a setup where they took some old carbs and removed the float bowls and machined a plate to hold the injectors that sets under the carb. They use the carb bodies as throttle bodies and were able to connect the multiple carbs with fuel lines, using internal fuel rails so the end result looks like a fully functional multi-carb setup, even with the air cleaner off! Of course I immediately started thinking 6-pack ;-). Check it out! At 02:55 AM 3/1/2002 -0800, you wrote: >For a couple of years I have been toying with the idea of building a >fuel injection system >using a 6-pack as the bases for the unit. Till now I wasn't sure how >I would fabricate >some of the parts. Well at the end of this summer I will be moving >from Alaska back to >Florida and will have access to several CNC machines. Both my friend >that has the machines >and myself are electronic technicians so I don't forsee any problem >with mating an off the >shelf computer with a custom chip. The parts that will be machined >will mainly be three >throtle bodies that will have the same general dimensions of the two >barrel Holley carb so >the air filter will remain in the proper position along with a few >other parts. Since the >CNC machines are computer controled via programs once one part is >made making more will be >easy. The only tuff part of the conversion will require welding pads >on to an aluminum >intake and then machining them out to fit the fuel injector in to. >Does anyone see any >problems with this idea and am I the only one with crazy ideas like >this or are there >other MML members out there interested in seeing this done? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From peterg at synopsys.com Fri Mar 1 14:52:37 2002 From: peterg at synopsys.com (Peter Galambos) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:18 2004 Subject: Subject: Middle Eastern Fuel (what about coal?) Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20020301125237.007d3660@us03-pop.internal.synopsys.com> >A few weeks ago one of the TV shows (20/20, Dateline, or 60 Minutes, I can't >recall which) had a segment about oil exploration in the Gulf of Mexico. It >was mentioned that only 3% of the global oil reserves are in the USA, so >there will never be any way to stop importing oil. The exploration in the >Gulf is expected to produce more oil than the North Slope of Alaska. The >wells cost ~$100,000,000 *each*. The only practical way to reduce oil >consumption and importation is to use nuclear energy, but that has obvious >political (not engineering or scientific) problems associated with it. Don't forget about coal: The known US coal reserves are about 500 billion short tons. When you consider that coal produces ~28 million BTU per short ton, we're talking about 14 quadrillion BTUs total. Saudi Arabia's oil reserves are 1 trillion barrels, producing ~5 million BTU per barrel, totalling 5 quadrillion BTUs. The upshot is that the US has almost as much enery in coal reserves as all of the oil reserves on the planet. I also know that during the 70's Siemens developed non-polluting technology to convert coal to gasoline, oil and natural gas. (This was in anticipation of a long-term global oil embargo that never materialized). Note that the technology is not now economically viable (production costs are many times higher than crude oil) and the environmentalists would probably object to turning much of the US into a gigantic strip mine :-) Nonetheless: We've got enough coal to keep our Mopars (OMC) and everything else running for the next 200 years. I hope by then we will have developed non-fossil fuel energy sources. Personally, I wouldn't be surprised if our intent is to consume the global oil reserves so we can once again become the world's dominant energy supplier... peterg@synopsys.com (Portland, OR) 70 Charger R/T - 440-4V/4spd/3.54 69 SuperBee - 440-4V(6V?)/auto/3.55 97 Dakota 4x4 - 5.2L V8/5spd/3.55 72 Dart - 360-4V/auto/4.10(locker) 73 Dart - 225-4V/auto To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mml at heminet.com Fri Mar 1 15:45:37 2002 From: mml at heminet.com (Ted Moore) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: Subject: Middle Eastern Fuel Message-ID: Dear MMLers, I originally sent this reply to Joe off the list, but since it's Friday I may as well send in my two-bits. One way to look at it is that we are importing foreign oil while it is dirt cheap and using up their reserves. Meantime we are preserving our strategic oil reserves and should be kicking out all the stops to develop or fund change-overs to alcohol (renewable from corn) or natural gas (renewable from landfills). I've seen some nice old Mopars that run on alcohol or methane, it's just hard to fill up at the local station. By the way, I remember doing an assignment in 1975 for my mining geology class. We estimated at the rate of consumption in 1970 the world's coal reserves would be gone by 2015. That included massive strip mining of the Appalachians and western states like Utah, Wyoming and Colorado. Luckily, nuclear power has cut into that consumption. Ted Moore - Carefree, AZ www.heminet.com www.TnTNetwork.com Web Sites and Databases 70 RR F8 Dark Green 383; 86 Daytona Turbo Z/CS - White; 75 XCab D200 Adventurer SE 440 Copper; 87 Shelby Lancer (5spd #252); 89 LeBaron GT Vert - White To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From T3lightbronze at aol.com Fri Mar 1 15:57:47 2002 From: T3lightbronze at aol.com (T3lightbronze@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: '71 Demon body shell for sale Message-ID: Hello, Now that I'm well on my way to succesfully resurrecting my '72 Demon (bad pun, sorry); I have this rolling '71 body that I'd like to be rid of. It's mostly stripped, windshield removed. I've patched up the floor where someone cut it for a 4 speed, the car was originallt column shift slant six. There's a new floor welded in the driver's rear section and front section. There is no front clip. The doors are the later type w/ the plastic top, not the earlier metal top type. The trunk and lower rear quarters need to be fixed, also small spots in front of the rear wheels- the usual A body rust. The top of the quarters are solid- the wheel arch area. The new Demon/Duster quarter patches from Sherman and associates would take care of the rear section. The worst part of the car is the passenger frame rail- holes rusted through in the area under the firewall, before it meets the floorpan. It's equipped w/ a 7 1/4 rear and front drum brakes. There's no dash, column, heater, wireing or steering box. If I had the money, time and desire to go drag racing this would be a good starting point. Actually I do have the desire. I wish I had pics available but I don't. This pitiful example of Dodge's '71 product line is being offered for $100. Located in Harford County Maryland, 30 min from I-83 or 45-50 min from I-95. Feel free to e-mail w/ any questions, prepare to be disappointed. It does roll around very easily in the barn that it lives in, could be put on a rollback or tow dolley very easily. Morgan Billingslea '69 Charger '72 Demon '71 Fury Custom Suburban 383-9passenger. '85 CJ-7 (Stephanie's Mopar-for now) '92 Shadow (Steph's other Mopar) Bel Air MD To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bbodybarn at yahoo.com Fri Mar 1 16:15:20 2002 From: bbodybarn at yahoo.com (Jeff Brown) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: Fuel injected 6-pack idea and machined aluminum goodies Message-ID: <20020301221521.22780.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> > For a couple of years I have been toying > with the idea of building a fuel injection system > using a 6-pack as the bases for the unit. > ... [snip] ... > problems with this idea and am I the only one > with crazy ideas like this or are there other > MML members out there interested in seeing this done? Check out either last month's popular hot rodding (or 1 issue earlier). There's a picture of a FI 6pak setup that someone has built. I can't remember all the info, but it sounded like he was intending to sell them once all the bugs were worked out. He already had one built and installed on his challenger. I think there was contact info in the little blurb too. The verbage and picture were SMALL and toward the back. Jeff __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! http://greetings.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From stephen.durr at divine.com Fri Mar 1 16:48:40 2002 From: stephen.durr at divine.com (Stephen Durr) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: Fuel injected 6-pack idea and machined aluminum goodies Message-ID: <00bb01c1c173$3b827610$c120010a@adtest.chil1.parlano.com> Rance Baxter has done this before. You can see a pic of his sixpack efi conversion on his website at: www.rancefi.com hit the Mopar link and scroll about half way down the page you will see it there. Stephen Durr 70 Challenger R/T 440 SixPack 99 Avenger ES ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Brown" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 4:15 PM Subject: Re: Fuel injected 6-pack idea and machined aluminum goodies > > For a couple of years I have been toying > > with the idea of building a fuel injection system > > using a 6-pack as the bases for the unit. > > ... [snip] ... > > problems with this idea and am I the only one > > with crazy ideas like this or are there other > > MML members out there interested in seeing this > done? > > Check out either last month's popular hot rodding > (or 1 issue earlier). There's a picture of a FI > 6pak setup that someone has built. I can't remember > all the info, but it sounded like he was intending to > sell them once all the bugs were worked out. He > already had one built and installed on his challenger. > > I think there was contact info in the little blurb > too. The verbage and picture were SMALL and toward > the back. > > Jeff > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! > http://greetings.yahoo.com > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From marty at milligansisland.com Fri Mar 1 17:04:26 2002 From: marty at milligansisland.com (Marty Milligan) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: energy, laws, and old cars Message-ID: <200203011604.AA157810900@locos.com> This subject usually brings out the angry old man in me. I'll try my best to be lucid and Mopar related. "Kenneth Mayer" wrote: My first engineering mentor told me this was actually a moral issue. It went something like this. Of all of the energy sources, most can be left alone and they will have the same energy producing potential in the future as they do now. A lump of coal will give off the same energy when burned in a thousand years as it gives off today or did a thousand years ago. Nuclear energy is not so. Nuclear energy is caused by decay and if left alone will eventually be useless. It is our obligation to make the best use of nuclear power before using alternatives that are stored in a form that can keep for generations. We owe it to posterity to use the energy with the nearest expiration date. I agree with Ken. It is entirely feasible for the US to be a net exporter of ENERGY through the use of nuclear power. The main objections, nuclear waste and ecological damage, are ridiculous. If the nuclear energy industry were allowed to grow, there would be a thriving industry returning nuclear waste into nuclear fuel. Compare the number of people that have died during the entire existence of the nuclear industry to just the number of miners that have died of black lung in the last 30 years. Everything is relative. The problem is that we are warned about what the media does not like instead of given an apples to apples comarison. None of this matters, as the general scientific literacy of the worlds population plummets. Mention you support nuclear power at the average middle class diner party and see the reaction you get. Probably the same as when they learn you have a 30 year old hot rod or don't drive an import. They'll probably sneak into your house and set your clock radio to "Morning Edition". "Kenneth Mayer" also wrote: Just scientific illiteracy? The economic illiteracy bothers me just as much. I guess it is our own fault for electing a bunch of lawyers when we need economists and engineers. Take clean air for example. It is a fact that on average newer cars run cleaner than older cars, so air quality is proportionally related to the age of the nations fleet of automobiles. So if I want cleaner air I do things to reduce the age of the fleet. But what has Congress done? Implemented new collision regulations. Added new cafe standards. Required even stricter emissions controls. Eliminated tax deductions for interest on auto loans. Raised the minimum wage. Avoided any type of tort reform. All of these things raised the price of a new car and thus the age of the fleet. What has Congress done to reduce the age of the fleet? Given tax credits for scrapping a bunch of cars that were already on their way out of the fleet anyway. Result? No cleaner air, but a big dent in our collective wallets that will put off the next time we can roll new iron. Hey, doesn't that age the fleet some more? And these people get reelected at an 80% rate. I guess we are right back to the scientific and economic illiteracy of the population. The best part is that companies like Ma Mopar are blamed for contributing to the whole mess through campaign contributions. For the most part, it is a myth that these contributions buy favor or at least access. They are really payola to keep Congress out of their industry. Take a look at what happened to Bill Gates before he learned how the game was played. As long as Congress decides who the economic winners and losers are there will be money flowing into Washington, creating the incentive to meddle in our lives some new way that creates a "secial interest group" that will pay them off. As for the engineering marvel that is the refinery system that supplies our beloved Mopars in accordance with an arms length list of regulations, don't expect them to be around forever. As environmental laws get tighter in the US, this industry will move off shore as well. The Middle East is trying hard to get caught up in refinery technology. It would be foolish to think they didn't understand the benefits of supplying a finished product instead of a raw material. It does not matter how strong the US military is, as we become more dependent on the rest of the world for our consumer necessities, the less independence we will have. I guess I should end positive, huh? If you love driving your Mopar; if you want to buy a new car that fits your needs; if you want to be able to find parts in the future; get political. Make sure you call, write, fax, AND email your state and federal representatives. Tell them what you think. Suggest legislation. Organize a march. Contribute to a candidate. Of course, you might end up like me. My reps call me the crazy old car guy. cordially, Marty Milligan PO Box 2020 Montgomery Vilage, MD 20886 http://www.milligansisland.com/ ________________________________________________________________ Get a free e-mail address like this one at locos.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From FGCFIRE at aol.com Fri Mar 1 20:04:41 2002 From: FGCFIRE at aol.com (FGCFIRE@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: CAFE Standards Message-ID: <189.4299a92.29b18d39@aol.com> It can be argued from an economic perspective that the current CAFE standards, in additon to killing people from incresed small cars, have the unintended effect of increasing fuel consumption by promoting "trucks". By having more restrictive requirements for cars than for light trucks it pushes people who would like to drive large sedans or station wagons into SUVs and pickups to get the same room for kids and stuff along with the safety advantages of a full sized vehicle. The manufacturer's in order to get maximum profit while keeping the CAFE up make only expensive large cars. But the Pickups and SUVs get significantly lower fuel economy due to the added height and weight. The light truck CAFE keeps the V10 from being offered in the 1500 series, pushing buyers who want that level of power and torque to go with the heavier and less fuel efficient 2500 series that is exempt from the CAFE std. IF the proposed combined car and truck increased CAFE is enacted and implimented I suspect that you will see a couple of trends-- There will be an increase in sales and production of whatever size truck just gets into the exempt catagory--the horse people will go to medium truck tow vehicles that are starting to be enter the market as will contractors and boaters. This will result in increased fuel consumption and an even greater mismatch between cars and the larger vehicles. The affordable light pickup will become scarce as affordable large cars did with the CAFE standards--you will not be able to buy a pickup without all the bells and whistles. IE New Yorkers vs Furys. Plymouth RIP. The stationwagon comeback will accellerate as the manufactures promote them as an alternative to SUVs. The law of unintended consequences has not been repealed. Frank 01, QC Ram 2500 long bed V-10 5spd 4WD Headers, K&N filter 4.10 LSD 66, 68 Newport Verts 383, 440 ;-) 65,66 Newyorkers, 413, 440, 2 dr, 4dr 65 D100 318 (Project) 76 Chrysler 13' Pirateer 2 sails 74 Chrysler Sport Crown Bowrider, Volvo 130-Chrysler 270 I/O. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Fri Mar 1 20:08:27 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: Carburetors..... Message-ID: A few days ago Wilks wrote... >I'm still thinking my problems are carburetor related and I'm just not >liking the Edelbrock 795 cfm quadrajet replacement I have.... > >Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've tried three of the same carbs >now from Edelbrock thinking I just got a bad one or two but the same >problems persist. I can't get a good idle on choke when first starting and >it just dies off choke until it's warmed up and then idles fine.... Hi Wilks, It still sounds like it will be good to play with the cold carburetor settings. These are always a bit touchy because you can't tweak them the way you can the warm engine settings. With my daily drivers, I find that the best way is to change one thing 1/4 turn at a time... Once or twice a day. Here's how: 1) Decide what you want to tweak. Make a 1/4 turn adjustment and see how the car behaves the next day. If the car has a chance to cool down thoroughly before you go home, you can re-tweak in the parking lot before your homeward trip... 2) Be patient. Think a lot and adjust a little. Sooner or later, you'll get the settings just right. That's assuming that all the parts are in good working order (does the choke pull-back work right on your carb?). Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From FGCFIRE at aol.com Fri Mar 1 20:04:41 2002 From: FGCFIRE at aol.com (FGCFIRE@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: CAFE Standards Message-ID: <189.4299a92.29b18d39@aol.com> It can be argued from an economic perspective that the current CAFE standards, in additon to killing people from incresed small cars, have the unintended effect of increasing fuel consumption by promoting "trucks". By having more restrictive requirements for cars than for light trucks it pushes people who would like to drive large sedans or station wagons into SUVs and pickups to get the same room for kids and stuff along with the safety advantages of a full sized vehicle. The manufacturer's in order to get maximum profit while keeping the CAFE up make only expensive large cars. But the Pickups and SUVs get significantly lower fuel economy due to the added height and weight. The light truck CAFE keeps the V10 from being offered in the 1500 series, pushing buyers who want that level of power and torque to go with the heavier and less fuel efficient 2500 series that is exempt from the CAFE std. IF the proposed combined car and truck increased CAFE is enacted and implimented I suspect that you will see a couple of trends-- There will be an increase in sales and production of whatever size truck just gets into the exempt catagory--the horse people will go to medium truck tow vehicles that are starting to be enter the market as will contractors and boaters. This will result in increased fuel consumption and an even greater mismatch between cars and the larger vehicles. The affordable light pickup will become scarce as affordable large cars did with the CAFE standards--you will not be able to buy a pickup without all the bells and whistles. IE New Yorkers vs Furys. Plymouth RIP. The stationwagon comeback will accellerate as the manufactures promote them as an alternative to SUVs. The law of unintended consequences has not been repealed. Frank 01, QC Ram 2500 long bed V-10 5spd 4WD Headers, K&N filter 4.10 LSD 66, 68 Newport Verts 383, 440 ;-) 65,66 Newyorkers, 413, 440, 2 dr, 4dr 65 D100 318 (Project) 76 Chrysler 13' Pirateer 2 sails 74 Chrysler Sport Crown Bowrider, Volvo 130-Chrysler 270 I/O. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Fri Mar 1 20:08:27 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: Carburetors..... Message-ID: A few days ago Wilks wrote... >I'm still thinking my problems are carburetor related and I'm just not >liking the Edelbrock 795 cfm quadrajet replacement I have.... > >Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've tried three of the same carbs >now from Edelbrock thinking I just got a bad one or two but the same >problems persist. I can't get a good idle on choke when first starting and >it just dies off choke until it's warmed up and then idles fine.... Hi Wilks, It still sounds like it will be good to play with the cold carburetor settings. These are always a bit touchy because you can't tweak them the way you can the warm engine settings. With my daily drivers, I find that the best way is to change one thing 1/4 turn at a time... Once or twice a day. Here's how: 1) Decide what you want to tweak. Make a 1/4 turn adjustment and see how the car behaves the next day. If the car has a chance to cool down thoroughly before you go home, you can re-tweak in the parking lot before your homeward trip... 2) Be patient. Think a lot and adjust a little. Sooner or later, you'll get the settings just right. That's assuming that all the parts are in good working order (does the choke pull-back work right on your carb?). Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mark71GTX at hotmail.com Fri Mar 1 20:09:49 2002 From: Mark71GTX at hotmail.com (Mark Wood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: 68 GTS Dart vert with 440 Message-ID: Anyone remember the old magazine Autobuff? There was a car featured in it at one time. It was Tom Ward's 68 Dart GTS convertible. It had a 440 shoehorned in it and a full roll cage. It was blue. Anyone on the list know of the whereabouts of this car? I know Tom personally and he gave me something the other day that the current owner may or may not want that was original to the car. I am not interested in buying it nor is Tom, just thought I would help the current owner if the car is even still out there. Thanks! Mark Wood http://communities.msn.com/MarkandVelana 71 GTX, 71 Challenger, 77 Stepside, 80 shortbed, 84 RC 4x4, 97 4x4 Ram 1500 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mark71GTX at hotmail.com Fri Mar 1 20:09:49 2002 From: Mark71GTX at hotmail.com (Mark Wood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: 68 GTS Dart vert with 440 Message-ID: Anyone remember the old magazine Autobuff? There was a car featured in it at one time. It was Tom Ward's 68 Dart GTS convertible. It had a 440 shoehorned in it and a full roll cage. It was blue. Anyone on the list know of the whereabouts of this car? I know Tom personally and he gave me something the other day that the current owner may or may not want that was original to the car. I am not interested in buying it nor is Tom, just thought I would help the current owner if the car is even still out there. Thanks! Mark Wood http://communities.msn.com/MarkandVelana 71 GTX, 71 Challenger, 77 Stepside, 80 shortbed, 84 RC 4x4, 97 4x4 Ram 1500 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kchamp at nrtco.net Fri Mar 1 20:55:14 2002 From: kchamp at nrtco.net (Kevin Champ) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <3C803F12.E3C3E0F0@nrtco.net> Hello everyone, With a bit of luck, I'll be firing up the 360 in the Mirada for the first time this weekend. I've made up an oil pump priming rod and will use that to prime the system before startup but I was looking for any tips or suggestions for pre-start stuff and the actual running of the engine for the break-in. Thanks, Kevin To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dukes1969 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 1 21:15:02 2002 From: Dukes1969 at yahoo.com (Chris Field) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: A-B-C-E Body 8-3/4 Widths? Message-ID: <000c01c1c198$71e298f0$9db43e04@chriscomp> Hey all, Does anyone know what the different widths are for an 8-3/4? Thank you Chris 69 Charger S/E 451 Stroker 4 Speed _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From carcat at ckt.net Fri Mar 1 21:47:23 2002 From: carcat at ckt.net (Carol Cation) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: <3C804B4B.6AD39397@ckt.net> All I know is--I'm 'shocked' at all these shenanigans! Ted Moore wrote: > > MMLers - Happy Friday! > > Pete wrote: > >Then there was the time we tried to drive cars > >after removing all the shock absorbers...... > > Ed Wrote: > > Wouldn't that be "without suspension" or "suspensionless"? > > Ted Moore - Carefree, AZ www.heminet.com > www.TnTNetwork.com Web Sites and Databases > 70 RR F8 Dark Green 383; 86 Daytona Turbo Z/CS - White; > 75 XCab D200 Adventurer SE 440 Copper; > 87 Shelby Lancer (5spd #252); 89 LeBaron GT Vert - White > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ecksjay at attbi.com Fri Mar 1 22:04:45 2002 From: ecksjay at attbi.com (Phil M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:19 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: <023101c1c19f$63c091d0$3fdae60c@pnwxj> *sigh* I'm still trying to "absorb" all of this. ;o) FRIDAY FRIDAY FRIDAAAAYYY!!! Phil ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carol Cation" > All I know is--I'm 'shocked' at all these shenanigans! > > Ted Moore wrote: > > > > MMLers - Happy Friday! > > > > Pete wrote: > > >Then there was the time we tried to drive cars > > >after removing all the shock absorbers...... > > > > Ed Wrote: > > > > Wouldn't that be "without suspension" or "suspensionless"? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MidPenMopar at aol.com Fri Mar 1 22:16:34 2002 From: MidPenMopar at aol.com (MidPenMopar@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: 383 question Message-ID: <144.a5c297b.29b1ac22@aol.com> I was in a discussion with another mopar enthusiast today on what is the limit you could safely rev a stock 383 HP motor to, without damaging the motor? Nothing prolonged, just a short trip to the redline. Thanks for any answers, Stu 70 roadrunner To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Fri Mar 1 22:26:40 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: refineries Message-ID: <3C800020.493.2808E97@localhost> > As for the engineering marvel that is the refinery system that > supplies our beloved Mopars in accordance with an arms length list of > regulations, don't expect them to be around forever. As environmental > laws get tighter in the US, this industry will move off shore as well. An interesting side note in this issue is that a very large (maybe 2nd largest in world) refinery is in the Virgin islands because (I was told) the enviromental regulations are far less strict there than the mainland US. I drove all over the island (I think it was St. Croix) looking for mopars, but didn't see any unfortunately. Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MidPenMopar at aol.com Fri Mar 1 22:16:34 2002 From: MidPenMopar at aol.com (MidPenMopar@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: 383 question Message-ID: <144.a5c297b.29b1ac22@aol.com> I was in a discussion with another mopar enthusiast today on what is the limit you could safely rev a stock 383 HP motor to, without damaging the motor? Nothing prolonged, just a short trip to the redline. Thanks for any answers, Stu 70 roadrunner To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Fri Mar 1 22:26:40 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: refineries Message-ID: <3C800020.493.2808E97@localhost> > As for the engineering marvel that is the refinery system that > supplies our beloved Mopars in accordance with an arms length list of > regulations, don't expect them to be around forever. As environmental > laws get tighter in the US, this industry will move off shore as well. An interesting side note in this issue is that a very large (maybe 2nd largest in world) refinery is in the Virgin islands because (I was told) the enviromental regulations are far less strict there than the mainland US. I drove all over the island (I think it was St. Croix) looking for mopars, but didn't see any unfortunately. Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Fri Mar 1 22:45:49 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: It makes it more difficult when you're on the 'rebound' (did someone say FRIDAY?) --ian 68 Newport > *sigh* I'm still trying to "absorb" all of this. ;o) > > FRIDAY FRIDAY FRIDAAAAYYY!!! > > Phil > > > All I know is--I'm 'shocked' at all these shenanigans! > > > > Ted Moore wrote: > > > > > > MMLers - Happy Friday! > > > > > > Pete wrote: > > > >Then there was the time we tried to drive cars > > > >after removing all the shock absorbers...... > > > > > > Ed Wrote: > > > > > > Wouldn't that be "without suspension" or "suspensionless"? > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Fri Mar 1 22:45:49 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: It makes it more difficult when you're on the 'rebound' (did someone say FRIDAY?) --ian 68 Newport > *sigh* I'm still trying to "absorb" all of this. ;o) > > FRIDAY FRIDAY FRIDAAAAYYY!!! > > Phil > > > All I know is--I'm 'shocked' at all these shenanigans! > > > > Ted Moore wrote: > > > > > > MMLers - Happy Friday! > > > > > > Pete wrote: > > > >Then there was the time we tried to drive cars > > > >after removing all the shock absorbers...... > > > > > > Ed Wrote: > > > > > > Wouldn't that be "without suspension" or "suspensionless"? > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ecksjay at attbi.com Fri Mar 1 23:19:20 2002 From: ecksjay at attbi.com (Phil M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: <025701c1c1a9$cf1de040$3fdae60c@pnwxj> Excuse me while I "strut" around....this is such a "gas!" Phil (Ohhhhh yeah, it's Friday!) ----- Original Message ----- From: > It makes it more difficult when you're on the 'rebound' > > (did someone say FRIDAY?) > --ian > 68 Newport > > > *sigh* I'm still trying to "absorb" all of this. ;o) > > > > FRIDAY FRIDAY FRIDAAAAYYY!!! > > > > Phil To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dan4510 at attbi.com Sat Mar 2 00:05:01 2002 From: dan4510 at attbi.com (dan4510@attbi.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: <20020302060501.BGLN1214.rwcrmhc54.attbi.com@rwcrwbc55> I am waiting for someone to become unsprung over this thread.... Dan Easterling > Excuse me while I "strut" around....this is such a "gas!" > > Phil (Ohhhhh yeah, it's Friday!) > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > > > It makes it more difficult when you're on the 'rebound' > > > > (did someone say FRIDAY?) > > --ian > > 68 Newport > > > > > *sigh* I'm still trying to "absorb" all of this. ;o) > > > > > > FRIDAY FRIDAY FRIDAAAAYYY!!! > > > > > > Phil > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hti at bigfoot.com Sat Mar 2 00:21:44 2002 From: hti at bigfoot.com (shooter) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: Dash Pad again Message-ID: <3C806F78.6080306@bigfoot.com> Come on, there has to be someone on the list who needs a nice dash pad for a 72-74 E body. (3 speaker, Black Non-AC, 4 spd). Mike To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sat Mar 2 00:46:12 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: Senate bill STOP Message-ID: <3C807533.66AFA91A@earthlink.net> Emails don't make much difference...however, it's said that for every letter recieved, it's like 200 people contacting them. Letters are actually given a lot of consideration on Capitol Hill. DR CHALLENGER wrote: > When this Bill first became public about 2 months ago, I emailed both my > senators, I live in NY, and I never received any type of response. I doubt > they actually ever saw the emails. > > Doc -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Commander in Chief, WWII Aviation Legacy H.Q., San Jose, CA Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. R.I.P. Maybelle, '68 Fury III. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2g95c at verizon.net Sat Mar 2 00:31:20 2002 From: vze2g95c at verizon.net (Tom Showers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <002c01c1c1b3$f1b8a040$f5742c81@ed> With a non-roller cam, you MUST maintain at least 2000 RPM for at least 10 minutes, or you are asking for flattened lobes. This becomes even more critical as valve spring pressures increase. Breaking in a race engine often requires a lighter set of springs, to avoid cam failure. A couple of fans to keep headers cool is good, as they WILL glow red due to lack of airflow even if mixtures are rich. A glowing header can IGNITE a drop of oil, and a fire is definitely undesirable. Breaking in a completely new engine requires a variable technique, because the best way to seat rings is almost never the preferred way to break in a cam. What works best for me is to remove the engine thermostat to reduce any chance of overheat, place the fans at strategic locations to provide good airflow at the headers (or radiator if needed). Get the engine fired and running with as little cranking as possible (manually fill carburetor, prime oiling system), keep the distributor loose so you can adjust timing easily, and get RPM up to 2000, preferably 2500, then constantly vary the throttle up to 3000 and back to 2500. After it runs ten minutes or more, or it is close to operating temperature, shut it down. NEVER let a fresh engine get even close to HOT. At this point, retorque fasteners as needed, then repeat the ten minute process again. And a final point, ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher handy. In initial driving, avoid WOT, but gradually work your way up to full throttle in burst of accel and decel for at least the first two hours of operation. No idling for more than ten seconds for the first 2 hours. Depending on parts and machining quality, engine break-in could be fairly complete in as little as 2 hours of operation. I would generally avoid high RPM high speed driving for at least 500 miles if possible. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sat Mar 2 00:49:06 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: <3C8075E2.9AC8F307@earthlink.net> Man, I'm not seeing anyone else do it, so I'll grace this thread with the obligatory... *badump-*CRASH* Thank you, thank you...you're too much, really. You're beautiful. *wink* *slick grin* We'll be here all week. Don't forget to tip your waitress, and..oh yeah! Try the veal. dan4510@attbi.com wrote: > I am waiting for someone to become unsprung over this > thread.... > > Dan Easterling > > Excuse me while I "strut" around....this is such a "gas!" > > > > Phil (Ohhhhh yeah, it's Friday!) > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > > > > It makes it more difficult when you're on the 'rebound' > > > > > > (did someone say FRIDAY?) > > > --ian > > > 68 Newport > > > > > > > *sigh* I'm still trying to "absorb" all of this. ;o) > > > > > > > > FRIDAY FRIDAY FRIDAAAAYYY!!! > > > > > > > > Phil -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Commander in Chief, WWII Aviation Legacy H.Q., San Jose, CA Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. R.I.P. Maybelle, '68 Fury III. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2g95c at verizon.net Sat Mar 2 00:47:33 2002 From: vze2g95c at verizon.net (Tom Showers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: 383 question Message-ID: <004c01c1c1b6$224461c0$f5742c81@ed> > I was in a discussion with another mopar enthusiast today on what is the > limit you could safely rev a stock 383 HP motor to, without damaging the motor? Nothing prolonged, just a short trip to the >redline. Stock valvesprings and hydraulic lifters would probably keep it under 6000. I have buzzed several stock bottom end 383's to well above 7500 with big mechanical cams and heavy springs; I can also tell you they will not do this forever. Three passes at 7800 did in a set, but they already had 100K on them and split mid-length. Actually, only one failed, but at that speed not much stays intact............ Tom Showers 70 Roadrunner 500 inch Wedge 31 Plymouth 2DR sedan rod project 89 Lebaron drag car project To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From BMGsLISTS at aol.com Sat Mar 2 00:50:35 2002 From: BMGsLISTS at aol.com (BMGsLISTS@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: Late model ('78) 360 head/air pump question Message-ID: <157.9caa941.29b1d03b@aol.com> A friend of mine at my shop just attempted to fire up his 318 after placing 360 heads (from a '78 van with air pump {aka: smog} ports) on it and it sounded like a tank. After he pulled the exhaust manifolds off, I noticed the open air ports and recommended (highly) that he plug them up. I can't remember if the ports are threaded or pressed in. I'm thinking threaded but just wanted to get a confirmation before jumping in to help. If anyone can shed some light, can you email me directly? TIA, Ben in Mountain View, CA www.DreamLot.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mkvien at wiktel.com Sat Mar 2 00:59:58 2002 From: mkvien at wiktel.com (Matthew Kvien) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: A-B-C-E Body 8-3/4 Widths? Message-ID: Here is a good source. Matt http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/1549/index3.html -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu]On Behalf Of Chris Field Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 9:15 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: A-B-C-E Body 8-3/4 Widths? Hey all, Does anyone know what the different widths are for an 8-3/4? Thank you Chris 69 Charger S/E 451 Stroker 4 Speed To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Sat Mar 2 06:01:36 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:20 2004 Subject: 383 question Message-ID: On 03/01/2002 11:16:34 MidPenMopar@aol.com mml wrote: > I was in a discussion with another mopar enthusiast today on what is the limit you could safely rev a stock 383 HP motor to, without damaging the motor? Nothing prolonged, just a short trip to the redline. Thanks for any answers, > Well, we had a fellow racer Donny who was running a 383 in his 65 Coronet. He usually ran about a 1/10 slower than me, and then sometimes, he was a 1/10 ahead. His motor was set up the same as mine, so he said, but his 65 weighed about 500 less than my Challenger. He also claimed to be shifting at 5400 like me. Then, we heard a knocking sound coming from under his hood. He was still running in the high 12s with the sound coming out of there. We took the valve covers off and found about 3 push rods that looked like a bunch of Xs and Zs! That is when Sam ran home to get some replacements from a 400 he had laying around at his house. While he was gone, I asked Sam's son Jason how in the world did those pushrods bend up so bad. That was when Jason told me that Donny was shifting at over 7000! We stuck the 400 pushrods in and kept on racing! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior .... 64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T Clone with 440; 89 Chrysler TC Maserati, Maserati Heads, 5 speed; 90 Dodge Spirit; 96 Dodge Ram SLT 2 WD, 360, 3.92 Sure Grip, Magnum R/T equipped.... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From carcat at ckt.net Sat Mar 2 09:19:27 2002 From: carcat at ckt.net (Carol Cation) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Stupid Car Tricks??!!?? Message-ID: <3C80ED7F.C3A58BF2@ckt.net> Carl, I notice you didn't volunteer to use the Newport for this venture! Carol IanMarkV@aol.com wrote: > > Carl- > I bet Nick never relaized that Caintmakit! would go global! Just goes to show you that there are car crazy lunatics all over the place. > > As far as destroying a car, come with us to Lone Pine, CA in May 17-19th when we challenge our Bay Area friends in a race to see who's <$600 (including mods) Beater will last longest in a huge autocross set up on an abandoned air strip in the middle of the Desert. You'd have a blast of a time, and it's cheap fun. We dun got us one o'dem furrin jobs to destroy. > > BTW, the Bonneville is the New Yorker of Pontiacs (Better looking, IMO too ;-) and my Firebird...well... I dare you to keep up . > > --ian > 68 Newport (440 should go in this weekend) > > In a message dated Thu, 28 Feb 2002 8:56:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, "Reverend Baroon" writes: > > > Ahh, well, there is a HUUUUGE difference between an 'up north' Santa Barbara > > chapter and a 'down south' or maybe 'down here' Los Angeles Chapter. > > I'm looking forward to join the fringes of Caintmakit soon, and I should > > have the video to prove it, and the wrecked car to show for it. > > > > Ian, you *do* realize that you are setting yourself up for a hurtin with an > > Imitation Fury like that Pontiac, not to mention the Firebird... new lows > > etc etc.. :) > > > > Any preferences on what car I should demolish when I go offroading? I'm > > thinking a K-car, maybe someone will need some parts. Otherwise any other > > $100 car that runs will do! > > > > Carl - gonna make use of my health insurance! > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From carcat at ckt.net Sat Mar 2 09:24:13 2002 From: carcat at ckt.net (Carol Cation) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Stupid Car Tricks??!!?? Message-ID: <3C80EE9D.E0FC6E9A@ckt.net> I have an '86 Aries that needs an engine put back in it that would qualify as a 'beater' for this. Kinda hate to do it, as the 4 doors are perfect, the interior is faded, but sound, and many trim parts could go to someone's Grandma car to keep hers on the road 'lookin' good'. We bought the critter for the good-running 2.5 to put in our Lebaron conv. Drove it home--the A/C worked, the cruise worked, the trans. was tight,, the radio worked! The 2.5 transformed our conv. into a creditable road tourer, it could actually get out of its way! Oh well, can't save them all, curse it. Carol Reverend Baroon wrote: > > Ahh, well, there is a HUUUUGE difference between an 'up north' Santa Barbara > chapter and a 'down south' or maybe 'down here' Los Angeles Chapter. > I'm looking forward to join the fringes of Caintmakit soon, and I should > have the video to prove it, and the wrecked car to show for it. > > Ian, you *do* realize that you are setting yourself up for a hurtin with an > Imitation Fury like that Pontiac, not to mention the Firebird... new lows > etc etc.. :) > > Any preferences on what car I should demolish when I go offroading? I'm > thinking a K-car, maybe someone will need some parts. Otherwise any other > $100 car that runs will do! > > Carl - gonna make use of my health insurance! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > > Carl, > Waaaay too late > I've already started the Santa Barbara chapter, with a Flint, MI. transplant > directly from the "Caintmakit Racing Team." :-) > > My Firebird has a "Caintmakit!" sticker on it, and the Newport will as soon > as the 440 is dropped in. Check: > > http://www.geocities.com/pontiac389_1999/ > > And click on my Firebird. > Maybe we'll let you join, Carl.. but not until you autocross the 300 or cut > the roof off. ;-) > > "Come drink with us!" > --ian > 68 Newport > 68 NYer (yeah I autocrossed it once- at night, with the light bar on the > roof) > and a couple cool Pontiacs > > In a message dated Wed, 27 Feb 2002 5:47:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Rev. > Baroon" writes: > > > http://caintmakit.com > > > > Our own Nick Parisi und freunde. :) > > > > Since it's been an idea in my head for a while, I might just start the LA > > chapter soon. hehe > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From santo426 at mediaone.net Sat Mar 2 09:32:48 2002 From: santo426 at mediaone.net (Sandy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: 4 speed station wagons Message-ID: <001201c1c1ff$8558dfe0$0100a8c0@se.mediaone.net> The guy I bought my Duster 340 from back in '84 also owned a '68 7 passenger Satellite wagon. This car was a legit HP383 4 spd and had dealer applied Road Runner stickers and emblems. The wagon was sitting in his back yard with no motor or trans but clearly was a manual transmission car. He told me the story about his brother ordering the car himself and that it was for real. Years went by and while talking to someone about HP wagons, I remembered the '68. I called the guy and he still had it. He sent me the fender tag(!) and I talked to Galen about it. It indeed was a real HP 383 4 spd wagon. Well, once I told our local parts guy about it, Jerry Dempsey of J&J out of Starke, Fl., he called and made arrangements to buy the thing. That's where it sits now... at J&Js... rusted to hell , but as close to a real Road Runner wagon as there is. Later, Sandy '85 Dodge 600 'vert, 2.2 turbo, white, white, white '70 Hemi Road Runner, B5, B5, 4 spd, project ***** http://www.sandysgarage.com ****** ****** http://www.garagecams.com ****** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ruth Kuntz" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 3:54 PM Subject: 4 speed station wagons > i was just wondering if anybody knows wnat station wagons came with four > speeds? i was talking to a guy that knows where theres one sitting. he > thinks its a big block. he said it said custom on one of the emblems. thanks > nick kuntz > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tonyu at roava.net Fri Mar 1 10:00:02 2002 From: tonyu at roava.net (Tony Underwood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: 383 question Message-ID: <200203021100921.SM00952@barfo> At 11:16 Post 3/1/2002 -0500, MidPenMopar@aol.com wrote: >I was in a discussion with another mopar enthusiast today on what is the >limit you could safely rev a stock 383 HP motor to, without damaging the >motor? Nothing prolonged, just a short trip to the redline. >Thanks for any answers, >Stu >70 roadrunner Well... a 383, even a bone stock 383, will tolerate a LOT before you damage it. In many cases, if you're using stock valve springs it's likely that they're soft enough after a few years of running to simply float valves and shut the engine out and not allow it to over-rev enough to kick off a rod. This, considering that the engine is in decent mechanical shape to start with. Once upon a time, about 20 years ago, I was sitting in a parking lot alongside the N&W (now NS) Railroad southeast shops in Roanoke... in the cold... waiting for someone to get off work to give them a ride home. It was winter and quite cold out. I was bored waiting... and casually watched a woman walk from across the street from work and head towards a Chrysler Newport 4-door sedan, gold in color, in all likelihood a 383 car since it looked a lot like moms mint green '68 Newport 4-door which had a 383 2bbl engine. The woman got in and started the car... which evidently then had something tragic go wrong with the throttle linkage when she pressed the pedal to the floor (and release) to set the choke etc as all good Mopar owners would do in winter before staring up... and the engine fired right up and immediately shot up to max RPM, WFO valve float, screaming like a banshee. The woman freaked and threw her hands up and started waving them around like she was arguing in Italian. All I could think while watching this show was "TURN THE SWITCH OFF, YOU DUMMY!!!" However, she must have brainwarped the incident because she did not cut the switch. The engine kept screaming and she kept waving her arms around and looking out the window for divine intervention or something. By this time others had noticed (how could they help not noticing?) and were watching... 383 kept screaming. I started to get out and run over to tell her to cut the damned switch before she blew the engine to pieces but another guy just around the corner had the same idea and got there first and yelled through the racket to tell her to shut it off, which she did, and the engine roared back down, exhaust popping and cracking as it finally coasted to a halt. After a brief exchange between the Newport pilot and the Samaritan, the fellow lifted the hood and looked underneath, fiddled with the air cleaner and evidently reattached the throttle return spring or something, told the lady to start it back up... and although she looked very apprehensive, she restarted the engine, which settled down to a smooth steady idle as if nothing had happened. Following another brief exchange, she drove away uneventfully. That engine was fired up from a stone cold (freezing) start and immediately run wide open straight to valve float for about 20 seconds before it was finally shut off and it took the punishment and didn't break. Now... considering the engine was no doubt stock (and also about 12 or so years old at the time) it would likely have revved no more than around 5200 rpm or so, which is what my brothers stock 30,000 mile '69 Roadrunner would rev before it floated valves. It's been my experience with the three 383s I've owned (two stock and one tweaked) that it's very hard to hurt one unless you are very stupid or very abusive. Since nobody with a vintage muscular Mopar is going to fit this description, I'd bet that 5000 rpm for a stock 383 is fine for most things and you won't have to worry about valve float (much) or tossing a rod... as long as you have good oil and decent oil pressure. I *LIKE* 383s, they're a good all-around street engine. They run strong with few mods and they're durable and they like to rev, and even with stock cast pistons will tolerate a lot of flogging without breaking. tony.. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudazappa at hotmail.com Sat Mar 2 10:12:47 2002 From: cudazappa at hotmail.com (Cuda Zappa) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: 4 speed station wagons Message-ID: Well, the F-body station wagons (aspen/Volare) came with the 4spds (ok, 3spd + OD, still 4 gears to bang right?) I thought I found one abandoned, but it was a 3spd and before I got my 4dr volare... At Carlisle last year there was a one owner factory original 78 Aspen Sport Wagon for sale that had a 318 4spd for sale for sticker price! Note: the F-body only could have the 4spd with 225 and 318 2bbl motors (but I have heard of 318 4bbls and 360 cars coming "factory" equipped with them...) oh yeah, the Volare had a "custom" trim line. That's why theres a definite F-body theme to this email. Gary "CudaZappa" Viola, Middlefield, CT 64 225 to 360 PB 'cuda / 80 225 Volare 4dr / 83 318 'doba http://www.geocities.com/cudazappa9000/ > > i was just wondering if anybody knows wnat station wagons came with four >> speeds? i was talking to a guy that knows where theres one sitting. he >> thinks its a big block. he said it said custom on one of the emblems. thanks >> nick kuntz _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudazappa at hotmail.com Sat Mar 2 10:43:47 2002 From: cudazappa at hotmail.com (Cuda Zappa) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: ack, a test, Outlook 2000, don't waste time and read Message-ID: bla bla bla i told you not to read this I'm just checking my settings on outlook thank you and have a nice day Gary To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rrudd28 at nwebs.com Sat Mar 2 11:12:57 2002 From: rrudd28 at nwebs.com (The Disappearing Boy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Car show on March 16 Message-ID: <000701c1c20d$809004d0$235b58d8@user> This is to alert everyone in the Houston area about the 1st Annual Rat Fink Reunion (Texas). They've had a number of Rat Fink reunions in Southern California, namely at the Moon Equipment Co. Shop in Santa Fe Springs, and they're pretty fun to go to. The Luxurious Panthers and Sir Finks are going to play, there's going to be kustom paint and pinstriping and there's probably going to be some tattooed 1950's greaser chicks there as well. It's at the Fabulous Satellite Lounge, Corner of Heights and Washington near downtown Houston. It's a pretty quick jump south of I-10. Anyone want to join me in flying the MML and Mopar flag there let me know and we could show up there or meet some place and caravan. There's more info at www.fabsat.com Ray Funke 69 Fury 3 ragtop 70 Imperial LeBaron 4dr HT To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From baroon at robdiesel.com Sat Mar 2 11:11:47 2002 From: baroon at robdiesel.com (Reverend Baroon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Stupid Car Tricks??!!?? Message-ID: <005e01c1c20d$56404320$c800a8c0@robdiesel.com> F**kin' Aye Skippy! My baby gets nothing but the occational burnout and jackrabbit start to show a ricer what sound and accelleration is all about in a REAL car that'll stand up to some abuse without blowing up! ANyone can get a shoppingcart in the 10's. :) I like these (60s) old cars, there are plenty of the mid-80s stuff in the yards and they weren't treated that well.. and actually, the quality wasn't the same. I don't feel as bad tossing one of those. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carol Cation" Carl, I notice you didn't volunteer to use the Newport for this venture! Carol IanMarkV@aol.com wrote: > > Carl- > I bet Nick never relaized that Caintmakit! would go global! Just goes to show you that there are car crazy lunatics all over the place. > > As far as destroying a car, come with us to Lone Pine, CA in May 17-19th when we challenge our Bay Area friends in a race to see who's <$600 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From pselosge at erols.com Sat Mar 2 12:23:13 2002 From: pselosge at erols.com (Paul Elosge) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: refineries Message-ID: <001701c1c217$5195e960$5d672c42@pavilion> "Greg Garner" writes: > An interesting side note in this issue is that a very large (maybe 2nd > largest in world) refinery is in the Virgin islands because (I was told) > the enviromental regulations are far less strict there than the > mainland US. I drove all over the island (I think it was St. Croix) > looking for mopars, but didn't see any unfortunately. I wonder when that refinery got built. I know a lot of the refineries in the Caribbean predate environmental regulations (or rather predate strict environmental regulations). I know my parents went to Aruba in the early 1960s and oil refining was a big business. I believe the St Croix refinery you are talking about is a joint venture between Amerada Hess and PDVSA (the Venezuelan national oil company). I don't know when it was built. It is surely there because of its proximity to Venezuela. The Aruba refineries went through a series of owners, including Shell and Exxon. Coastal is there now. When Shell got involved in Aruba early in the 20th century, I am sure it was partly because of who they are... Royal Dutch Shell, and the fact that Aruba is in the Netherland Antilles. In terms of economic development in the Caribbean, there weren't many options before tourism got big. Asked if they wanted a refinery back then, and I bet they were thrilled at the possibility! The Caribbean is adjacent to two major petroleum reserves, those in Venezuela and those in Mexico. I think the location of refineries there probably has more to do with that than anything else. Paul Elosge - 1965 Imperial Crown * 1971 Plymouth Duster * 1993 Chrysler Concorde - To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tstroup at soucc.southern.cc.oh.us Sat Mar 2 15:32:02 2002 From: tstroup at soucc.southern.cc.oh.us (Tom Stroup) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Dash Pad again Message-ID: <3C8144D2.C10DB88F@soucc.southern.cc.oh.us> Nope, Mine is an Ac car. Tom The Obssessed shooter wrote: > Come on, there has to be someone on the list who needs a nice dash pad > for a 72-74 E body. (3 speaker, Black Non-AC, 4 spd). > > Mike > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cpennell at mail.ev1.net Sat Mar 2 15:56:08 2002 From: cpennell at mail.ev1.net (cpennell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Selling my '71 Challenger Project!!!! Message-ID: <200203021556.AA308674792@mail.ev1.net> I am selling my '71 Challenger project car. I have it on e-Bay. The auction ends Sunday afternoon. I have a $1,250.00 reserve. Go here if you are interested; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&item=1808052138&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1015193157&index URL=0&rd=1 For more pictures go here; http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/cpennell3cuda/lst?.dir=/% 2771+Challenger&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http% 3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/cpennell3cuda/lst%3f.dir=/%252771% 2bChallenger%26.src=ph%26.view=t The car is in Houston, TX area. ________________________________________________________________ Sent via the EV1 webmail system at mail.ev1.net To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cpennell at mail.ev1.net Sat Mar 2 15:56:08 2002 From: cpennell at mail.ev1.net (cpennell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Selling my '71 Challenger Project!!!! Message-ID: <200203021556.AA308674792@mail.ev1.net> I am selling my '71 Challenger project car. I have it on e-Bay. The auction ends Sunday afternoon. I have a $1,250.00 reserve. Go here if you are interested; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&item=1808052138&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1015193157&index URL=0&rd=1 For more pictures go here; http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/cpennell3cuda/lst?.dir=/% 2771+Challenger&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http% 3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/cpennell3cuda/lst%3f.dir=/%252771% 2bChallenger%26.src=ph%26.view=t The car is in Houston, TX area. ________________________________________________________________ Sent via the EV1 webmail system at mail.ev1.net To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MRCUDA68 at aol.com Sat Mar 2 16:42:01 2002 From: MRCUDA68 at aol.com (MRCUDA68@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Late model ('78) 360 head/air pump question Message-ID: Holes are neither. They need to be drilled tapped and put in allen set screws. I have the new style swirl port heads on my car. However I can't remember what size they are though. AJ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.unipissing.ca Sat Mar 2 16:55:45 2002 From: andre at dns3.unipissing.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: gas tank explosion Message-ID: <3C815871.41E0504C@dns3.unipissing.ca> Carol Cation wrote: > > All I know is--I'm 'shocked' at all these shenanigans! > Don't worry, you'll spring back. (looking for the starter-launcher shelter) > Ted Moore wrote: > > > > MMLers - Happy Friday! > > > > Pete wrote: > > >Then there was the time we tried to drive cars > > >after removing all the shock absorbers...... > > > > Ed Wrote: > > > > Wouldn't that be "without suspension" or "suspensionless"? > > -- Andre -- Honk if you hate noise pollution To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.unipissing.ca Sat Mar 2 17:00:41 2002 From: andre at dns3.unipissing.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <3C815999.6885E581@dns3.unipissing.ca> Tom Showers wrote: > > With a non-roller cam, you MUST maintain at least 2000 RPM for at least 10 > minutes, or you are asking for flattened lobes. > This becomes even more critical as valve spring pressures increase. > Breaking in a race engine often requires a lighter set of springs, to avoid > cam failure. > > A couple of fans to keep headers cool is good, as they WILL glow red due > to lack of airflow even if mixtures are rich. A glowing header can IGNITE a > drop of oil, and a fire is definitely undesirable. > I remember reading somewhere of someone who had just installed a camshaft. He fired up the engine determined to run it in. But somehow he had banged the power-steering unit and nudged the adjustment off. The power-steering went to full lock on him and started doing nasties to the belt and pump. Moral? Disconnect the pwoer steering belt. -- Andre -- Honk if you hate noise pollution To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Sat Mar 2 18:42:29 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Stupid Car Tricks??!!?? Message-ID: <002901c1c24c$4cac0710$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Reverend Baroon" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 10:11 AM Subject: Re: Stupid Car Tricks??!!?? > F**kin' Aye Skippy! > > My baby gets nothing but the occational burnout and jackrabbit start to show > a ricer what sound and accelleration is all about in a REAL car that'll > stand up to some abuse without blowing up! ANyone can get a shoppingcart in > the 10's. :) > > I like these (60s) old cars, there are plenty of the mid-80s stuff in the > yards and they weren't treated that well.. and actually, the quality wasn't > the same. I don't feel as bad tossing one of those. > > Last night a turbo Supra showed a Viper GTS, Venom 500 version, what IT sounded and accelerated like. The Viper, lacking in turbo lag got away first, but the Supra reeled it in and then some. This was from a slow roll. Makes me sick. I need to go wash my hands after typing this...... Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From baroon at robdiesel.com Sat Mar 2 21:21:48 2002 From: baroon at robdiesel.com (Reverend Baroon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Stupid Car Tricks??!!?? Message-ID: <007f01c1c262$8d9db0f0$c800a8c0@robdiesel.com> On the other hand, seeing videos like the little Neon beating the crap out of a Viper was hilarious.. nothing like a little intra-species competition.. and sorrow as your $60K Viper gets spanked by an 'econo-box'. :) I wonder what the total $$ was in the Neon! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Big Al" Last night a turbo Supra showed a Viper GTS, Venom 500 version, what IT sounded and accelerated like. The Viper, lacking in turbo lag got away first, but the Supra reeled it in and then some. This was from a slow roll. Makes me sick. I need to go wash my hands after typing this...... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Sat Mar 2 21:35:53 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: 4sp shifter boot for E Body.... Message-ID: <002401c1c264$86a716e0$7192fea9@computer> I need a new boot for a Hurst Pistole Grip Shifter in my '71 Cuda. I would love to find something generic/local that would work. The hole must be rectangular instead of round and it needs to be rather large as the shift throw is around 3.5 inches.The discount auto parts houses in my area carry a small one and a large, but I need something in between. I'm sure someone else out there has had this problem and hopefully will let me in on the secret of finding one that will work OK and not break the bank. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Sat Mar 2 21:50:39 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Mopar hurst Pistol Grip 4 speed Shifter, What does it fit? Message-ID: <000a01c1c266$95c0ae50$0300000a@al> Was at the Nationals in Phoenix last weekend. A guy at the Hurst booth told us they were going to sell a repo pistol grip shift knob for MOPARS. It will not be an exact copy of the original, but reasonably close. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mopar_family at hotmail.com Sun Mar 3 09:10:25 2002 From: mopar_family at hotmail.com (Mopar Family) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Senate bill STOP Message-ID: <000201c1c2c5$8bf63980$47b80344@ph.cox.net> We are members of The Arizona Hobbyist Council and have had a number of Senate Representatives come to our meetings and they all tell us that with all threats in the mail lately, that e-mails do more good than sending a letter. BUT they have all said that you need to direct them to ONE person at a time. If you do an e-mail to multiple Representatives, they will most likely NOT get read! But to take the time and send a separate e-mail to each person will give you a much bigger chance of being heard. Scott Giller - Vice President AND Sandee Giller - Newsletter Editor Mopars Unlimited of Arizona www.moparsunlimitedofaz.com -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu] On Behalf Of A.J. Hunt Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 11:46 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Re: Senate bill STOP Emails don't make much difference...however, it's said that for every letter recieved, it's like 200 people contacting them. Letters are actually given a lot of consideration on Capitol Hill. DR CHALLENGER wrote: > When this Bill first became public about 2 months ago, I emailed both my > senators, I live in NY, and I never received any type of response. I doubt > they actually ever saw the emails. > > Doc -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Commander in Chief, WWII Aviation Legacy H.Q., San Jose, CA Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. R.I.P. Maybelle, '68 Fury III. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2g95c at verizon.net Sun Mar 3 11:05:58 2002 From: vze2g95c at verizon.net (Tom Showers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:21 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <001e01c1c2d5$b1080540$08742c81@ed> Tom Showers wrote: > > With a non-roller cam, you MUST maintain at least 2000 RPM for at least 10 > > minutes, or you are asking for flattened lobes. > > This becomes even more critical as valve spring pressures increase. > > Breaking in a race engine often requires a lighter set of springs, to avoid > > cam failure. > > > > A couple of fans to keep headers cool is good, as they WILL glow red due > > to lack of airflow even if mixtures are rich. A glowing header can IGNITE a > > drop of oil, and a fire is definitely undesirable. Andre Roy wrote: > I remember reading somewhere of someone who had just installed a > camshaft. He fired up the engine determined to run it in. But somehow he > had banged the power-steering unit and nudged the adjustment off. The > power-steering went to full lock on him and started doing nasties to the > belt and pump. > > Moral? Disconnect the pwoer steering belt. Yes, always good to eliminate as many distractions as possible. Unplug the phone, whatever it takes to have at least fifteen totally interrupted minutes 'alone with your car'. It's kind like childbirth, Mom gets the kid right away for bonding. Well, the car's 'your baby'. Another thing, always leave the automatic in neutral. No lube circuits in park, and with that crank spinning the pump awful fast, you can destroy a pump bushing and torque converter in a hurry. Tom Showers 70 Roadrunner 500 inch Wedge 31 Plymouth 2DR sedan rod project 89 Lebaron drag car project To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2g95c at verizon.net Sun Mar 3 11:05:58 2002 From: vze2g95c at verizon.net (Tom Showers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <001e01c1c2d5$b1080540$08742c81@ed> Tom Showers wrote: > > With a non-roller cam, you MUST maintain at least 2000 RPM for at least 10 > > minutes, or you are asking for flattened lobes. > > This becomes even more critical as valve spring pressures increase. > > Breaking in a race engine often requires a lighter set of springs, to avoid > > cam failure. > > > > A couple of fans to keep headers cool is good, as they WILL glow red due > > to lack of airflow even if mixtures are rich. A glowing header can IGNITE a > > drop of oil, and a fire is definitely undesirable. Andre Roy wrote: > I remember reading somewhere of someone who had just installed a > camshaft. He fired up the engine determined to run it in. But somehow he > had banged the power-steering unit and nudged the adjustment off. The > power-steering went to full lock on him and started doing nasties to the > belt and pump. > > Moral? Disconnect the pwoer steering belt. Yes, always good to eliminate as many distractions as possible. Unplug the phone, whatever it takes to have at least fifteen totally interrupted minutes 'alone with your car'. It's kind like childbirth, Mom gets the kid right away for bonding. Well, the car's 'your baby'. Another thing, always leave the automatic in neutral. No lube circuits in park, and with that crank spinning the pump awful fast, you can destroy a pump bushing and torque converter in a hurry. Tom Showers 70 Roadrunner 500 inch Wedge 31 Plymouth 2DR sedan rod project 89 Lebaron drag car project To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sun Mar 3 12:02:47 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Carburators..... Message-ID: <3C826547.174B3D6@sedona.net> I'm with Joe on this one. I'd try a 750 vacuum secondary Holley (3310 style I believe) on a good square bore manifold (Performer or Performer RPM). I've got 2 440s that I run this carb on. A 650 just isn't enough air or fuel for a large engine. The Holleys are a pain to get dialed in but I wasn't happy with the throttle response of the 440 I had with a 750 Edelbrock on it. Also I'd look at one of the Demon carbs. I understand that they are allot easier to change jets on, however, I've never actually seen one. There are like a dozen different styles of the Demon. Personally I'd stay with a vacuum secondary carb regardless of manual or auto trans. If you were running a huge cam and doing allot of racing then, maybe, a mechanical secondary carb would be warranted. Karl M. "Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)" wrote: > I think a 650 would be way too small for a 440. I run one on my 340! > Why dont you upgrade to a square bore manifold and get a 750 vacuum if you have an automatic or double pump if you have a stick. > > "smokin" Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: wilkie, steven [mailto:wilkie_steven@emc.com] > Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 10:09 AM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: Carburators..... > > Howdy folks, > > I'm still thinking my problems are carburator related and I'm just not > liking the Edelbrock 795 cfm quadrajet replacement I have. It may have > something to do with the mild performance cam I'm running and all things put > together but I'm thinking I might try something else. > > I called Holley and they don't make a 750 cfm spread bore carb to my > surprise and the biggest they make in spread bore is a 650. Do you folks > think that this will be ok for my 440? I had a 650 on my 383 which seemed > fine but it was mostly stock other than headers. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've tried three of the same carbs > now from Edelbrock thinking I just got a bad one or two but the same > problems persist. I can't get a good idle on choke when first starting and > it just dies off choke until it's warmed up and then idles fine. Maybe this > is something I just need to get used to when using a mild performance cam? > > It also seems to run out of gas at high rpms which I'm installing a 6psi > fuel pump vs my current 4psi pump this week to see if that fixes that > problem. It's running extremely rich as this is the only setting I seem to > be able to use to get it to run right. I can't let it idle in the garage > too long or I suffocate and obviously my gas mileage bites. > > Wilks > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sun Mar 3 12:20:33 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Big Block Water Pump Housing heater hose pipe removal Message-ID: <3C826971.F9983A41@sedona.net> Years ago I came across a small ..... uh... tiny pipe wrench. It's got like, about a 4 inch handle. The jaws are small and it's the perfect ticket for the heater connections as you can get the wrench down close to the threads, usually. However I've come across some of those fittings that were not installed with any sealer or anti-seeze compound that required major torque to get them out. Those required a bigger wrench which meant gripping them near the top. Usually you end up crushing the pipes at this point. Sometimes I have been able to use the "tiny" pipe wrench and hit it with a hammer to break the pipes loose (keep your fingers out of the way). For reinstallation I recommend teflon tape as it acts as a sealer and anti-seeze which makes removal easier. Karl M. "Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)" wrote: > Use lots of WD40 and let it soak overnight. Firmly tap with a small sledge hammer and block of wood to "hopefully" loosen. Ive used a GIANT screw driver in the slot (If your REAL lucky) or a small > pipe wrench. GOOD LUCK! Dont use a torch. It will fry your water pump seals! > How much does YO want? Most parts stores have these for a few bucks. > > "smokin" Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: Lee D. [mailto:LeeD383@yahoo.com] > Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 11:17 AM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: Big Block Water Pump Housing heater hose pipe removal > > The two pieces of pipe where the heater hose in and out are attached to > the water pump housing are corroded. There is a slot in the top of the > pipe. How do you get these pipes out of the housing? There looks to be > some thread sealant where they go into the housing, on reinstall what > should be used to seal? I think Year One sells replacement pipe, is > that a good deal or can you buy the parts elsewhere? Thanks. > > Lee > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hti at bigfoot.com Sun Mar 3 12:19:18 2002 From: hti at bigfoot.com (shooter) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: keyless entry options Message-ID: <3C826926.1070809@bigfoot.com> Just bought a 01 Ram 1500 w/ PDL, however it doesn't have keyless entry which I would like. Anyone on the list have experience with adding this option? I have been told that you can order the parts from Mopar but a dealer has to install it. I am looking at aftermarket systems but I am not too interested in cutting into the wiring harness. Mike To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From raycuda at comcast.net Sun Mar 3 12:28:29 2002 From: raycuda at comcast.net (Raycuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Auto choke Message-ID: <3C826B4D.FACA0031@comcast.net> I am trying to find an automatic choke for the 440 in my GTX. I went to NAPA and they didn't have a book that went back that far. I looked at my Mopar Performance catalog, Year One and Paddock but none of them listed the choke, just the cup which I have. I got on the 'net and was checking some parts places and the only place I found one is Jim's parts in New Hampshire. But they want $99.00 for a choke thermostat. =8-O YOUCH!!!! Anyone know where one of these things can be had at a reasonable price?? I just want one that functions, not one that was originally mounted in a car that was once looked at by Richard Petty or something like that. -- Ray Kuter 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe, 1969 GTX 440 4spd, 1971 Barracuda Convertible, 2001 P.T. Cruiser To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sun Mar 3 13:04:49 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: 451 Stroker Message-ID: <3C8273D0.E5039F6@sedona.net> Brett, Looking at all the benefits of a "quench" design engine that's where I'd start. There have been a few threads on this subject lately and several of the car mags have run articles on this. By utilizing this type of combustion chamber / piston combination you can run a higher compression and still use pump gas. I believe that means using a closed chamber head. I'd stay at 10:1 or less for a quench type engine or less than 9:1 for a non quench. With aluminum heads you may be able to push the compression another half point or so. My dream engine would be a 450 (.030 over 400 block with a 440 crank) with aluminum B1 heads and alum water pump and water pump housing. The only thing is that I want to be able to drive the car on trips and the B1 intake manifold is a single plane. That would put the power band way above where I would be running the engine. I'd like a useful power band up to 6000 rpm. And with keeping the useful power band top at 6000 I doubt that you'd need all the flow potential of the B1 heads anyway. With all of the different aluminum heads on the market now there is quite a choice. It would be interesting to see how all of the different heads compare as some of them allow for the use of stock style intakes. Therefore a Performer RPM could be used. So maybe instead of B1 heads a set of closed chamber Edelbrocks? I think you could build a 450 cube B block that weighs about the same as a stock all iron 360 that would be a very dependable daily driver. And would scare the crap out of the ricers. Karl M. Brett Hales wrote: > I am looking for any kind of help or anyone with any experience building the > 451. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. I > have been led down a few different paths by different machine shops and many > contradicting each other. > > Thanks in advance, > > Brett -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Sun Mar 3 13:26:01 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! Message-ID: I'm trying to put my 440 converter in the trans that was behind the 383. They should swap, right? For some reason I just can't get it on! I've tried pushing as I rotate the converter, pulling it off, rotating a little and pushing back on, nothing seems to work. It won't set back all the way. I need to get the engine in today. Please help ASAP! Thanks --ian 68 Newport To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Sun Mar 3 13:26:01 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! Message-ID: <27.23af2416.29b3d2c9@aol.com> I'm trying to put my 440 converter in the trans that was behind the 383. They should swap, right? For some reason I just can't get it on! I've tried pushing as I rotate the converter, pulling it off, rotating a little and pushing back on, nothing seems to work. It won't set back all the way. I need to get the engine in today. Please help ASAP! Thanks --ian 68 Newport To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Sun Mar 3 13:26:01 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! Message-ID: I'm trying to put my 440 converter in the trans that was behind the 383. They should swap, right? For some reason I just can't get it on! I've tried pushing as I rotate the converter, pulling it off, rotating a little and pushing back on, nothing seems to work. It won't set back all the way. I need to get the engine in today. Please help ASAP! Thanks --ian 68 Newport To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Sun Mar 3 13:26:01 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! Message-ID: <27.23af2416.29b3d2c9@aol.com> I'm trying to put my 440 converter in the trans that was behind the 383. They should swap, right? For some reason I just can't get it on! I've tried pushing as I rotate the converter, pulling it off, rotating a little and pushing back on, nothing seems to work. It won't set back all the way. I need to get the engine in today. Please help ASAP! Thanks --ian 68 Newport To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kallen01 at tampabay.rr.com Sun Mar 3 13:40:22 2002 From: kallen01 at tampabay.rr.com (Jeff & Kristi Allen) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! Message-ID: <003101c1c2eb$427e96a0$f32aa418@home> It is a PITA to line up the pump with the notches on the converter hub....keep trying, it will go...Look into the trans pump, and try to see where the lugs are, then eyeball it..... Also, dont forget the flexplate has 1 offset hole...3 of the bolts are the same, one is diffrent.....make sure u mark it before u get it together... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 2:26 PM Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! > I'm trying to put my 440 converter in the trans that was behind the 383. They should swap, right? For some reason I just can't get it on! > > I've tried pushing as I rotate the converter, pulling it off, rotating a little and pushing back on, nothing seems to work. It won't set back all the way. > > I need to get the engine in today. Please help ASAP! > Thanks > --ian > 68 Newport > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kallen01 at tampabay.rr.com Sun Mar 3 13:40:22 2002 From: kallen01 at tampabay.rr.com (Jeff & Kristi Allen) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! Message-ID: <003101c1c2eb$427e96a0$f32aa418@home> It is a PITA to line up the pump with the notches on the converter hub....keep trying, it will go...Look into the trans pump, and try to see where the lugs are, then eyeball it..... Also, dont forget the flexplate has 1 offset hole...3 of the bolts are the same, one is diffrent.....make sure u mark it before u get it together... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 2:26 PM Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! > I'm trying to put my 440 converter in the trans that was behind the 383. They should swap, right? For some reason I just can't get it on! > > I've tried pushing as I rotate the converter, pulling it off, rotating a little and pushing back on, nothing seems to work. It won't set back all the way. > > I need to get the engine in today. Please help ASAP! > Thanks > --ian > 68 Newport > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sun Mar 3 13:50:13 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: 383 question Message-ID: <3C827E74.E3285D56@sedona.net> I rebuilt the 383 in my 70 Chally using the Hemi Street grind "Purple Shaft" hydraulic cam with stock HP valve springs (this was in 1982). The bottom end was stock with fully grooved mains and a good balancing job. Shift points were 1st - 2nd 8000 rpm, 2nd - 3rd 7500 rpm and 3rd - 4th 7000 rpm. Although this doesn't directly answer your question I hope the info will help. As for a stock 383 Magnum in good shape.... I'd say about 6000 or so rpm would be safe. My belief is that fully grooved mains can really help keep a bottom end from spinning a bearing at higher rpm levels. Karl M. > At 11:16 Post 3/1/2002 -0500, MidPenMopar@aol.com wrote: > >I was in a discussion with another mopar enthusiast today on what is the > >limit you could safely rev a stock 383 HP motor to, without damaging the > >motor? Nothing prolonged, just a short trip to the redline. > >Thanks for any answers, > >Stu > >70 roadrunner > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From lapierce at attbi.com Sun Mar 3 14:07:58 2002 From: lapierce at attbi.com (lapierce@attbi.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Drive shaft Aluminum vs. Steel Message-ID: <20020303200758.EAGK2951.rwcrmhc53.attbi.com@rwcrwbc57> MMLers I've got to get a drive shaft cut and balanced for my 73 Challenger, overdrive conversion. I have both an aluminum shaft and the original steel shaft. The 1 quote I have in Dallas is $30 bucks more for the Aluminum shaft, no big deal. I wanted to get some feedback on the pros & cons of an aluminum shafts. Also, any recommendations or cautions on drive shaft shops, around Dallas, TX would be appreciated. Thanks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2dp8c at verizon.net Sun Mar 3 14:14:35 2002 From: vze2dp8c at verizon.net (Peter Engel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Ram keyless entry Message-ID: <3C82842B.F248C54F@verizon.net> Mike, I've installed the Mopar keyless entry/alarm package in 2 Ram pickups to date. A 94 and a 96, both SLT 2500 Cummins trucks. I think the line about the dealer having to install it is a bunch of crap. You have to drill a small hole for mounting the system status/panic LED panel and splice into the courtesy lights hot circuit. Also a small hole under the dash for the kill switch. Otherwise the harness is an add-on that fits between two existing harness connectors. I think I still have the box if you want part numbers for comparison. Pete in PA Message Number: 19 Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 10:19:18 -0800 From: shooter Subject: keyless entry options Just bought a 01 Ram 1500 w/ PDL, however it doesn't have keyless entry which I would like. Anyone on the list have experience with adding this option? I have been told that you can order the parts from Mopar but a dealer has to install it. I am looking at aftermarket systems but I am not too interested in cutting into the wiring harness. Mike To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From lapierce at attbi.com Sun Mar 3 14:07:58 2002 From: lapierce at attbi.com (lapierce@attbi.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Drive shaft Aluminum vs. Steel Message-ID: <20020303200758.EAGK2951.rwcrmhc53.attbi.com@rwcrwbc57> MMLers I've got to get a drive shaft cut and balanced for my 73 Challenger, overdrive conversion. I have both an aluminum shaft and the original steel shaft. The 1 quote I have in Dallas is $30 bucks more for the Aluminum shaft, no big deal. I wanted to get some feedback on the pros & cons of an aluminum shafts. Also, any recommendations or cautions on drive shaft shops, around Dallas, TX would be appreciated. Thanks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2dp8c at verizon.net Sun Mar 3 14:14:35 2002 From: vze2dp8c at verizon.net (Peter Engel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Ram keyless entry Message-ID: <3C82842B.F248C54F@verizon.net> Mike, I've installed the Mopar keyless entry/alarm package in 2 Ram pickups to date. A 94 and a 96, both SLT 2500 Cummins trucks. I think the line about the dealer having to install it is a bunch of crap. You have to drill a small hole for mounting the system status/panic LED panel and splice into the courtesy lights hot circuit. Also a small hole under the dash for the kill switch. Otherwise the harness is an add-on that fits between two existing harness connectors. I think I still have the box if you want part numbers for comparison. Pete in PA Message Number: 19 Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 10:19:18 -0800 From: shooter Subject: keyless entry options Just bought a 01 Ram 1500 w/ PDL, however it doesn't have keyless entry which I would like. Anyone on the list have experience with adding this option? I have been told that you can order the parts from Mopar but a dealer has to install it. I am looking at aftermarket systems but I am not too interested in cutting into the wiring harness. Mike To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sun Mar 3 14:18:50 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Did I get a decent deal? Message-ID: <3C828529.7B48AD5F@sedona.net> I'll give you $420 for the 440. :) Karl M. Jarrod Pilone wrote: > last night I picked up a 40,000 mile motorhome '73 steel crank 440. along > with that I got a rust and dent free front fender for my convertible (with a > perfect marker light) for a grand total of $420! > > I think I got a good deal.... anyone? > > Jarrod > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2dp8c at verizon.net Sun Mar 3 14:24:43 2002 From: vze2dp8c at verizon.net (Peter Engel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: 440 choke stat Message-ID: <3C82868A.39D78A6E@verizon.net> Ray, Regular Mopar 440 intake? Holley 4160? If so, I have the OEM stat off my 70 Imperial 440. I yanked the PITA Holley to install a Carter AVS and the stat was different. I, too, had a real bear of a time find the correct part for my car. Let me know if you think the part I have will work for you and it's yours. Pete in PA Message Number: 20 Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 13:28:29 -0500 From: Raycuda Subject: Auto choke I am trying to find an automatic choke for the 440 in my GTX. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kaffeen at mindspring.com Sun Mar 3 14:39:28 2002 From: kaffeen at mindspring.com (Pete) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Edelbrocks and Thermoquads Message-ID: <000a01c1c2f3$9974e1a0$ebd11c3f@pete-s-vaio> Can someone recommend a good book on rebuilding Thermoquads and/or Edelbrocks? What's a good midrange aluminum intake manifold that can accomodate a Thermoquad on a smallblock? Engine in question would be a 318 with 360 heads, eventually a TQ and 340 exhaust manifolds. I have a Weiand Stealth right now but I'm assuming it won't accept the spread bore TQ. Is this correct? Thanks, Pete To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sun Mar 3 14:51:04 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Engine Degreasers Message-ID: <3C828CB8.B8221435@sedona.net> I've had good results with a combination of products. One of the better ones I've found is Gumout Steam Premium in an aerosol can. I believe it's citrus based and environmentally friendly. It dosen't seem to disturb the engine paint either. However if you have really thick deposits you're gonna have to scrape. The Gunk brand stuff in a spray can that has a high solvent content does a pretty good job on the thicker petroleum deposits if you let it soak in for a while. Then I use the Steam Premuim on top of that. But no matter what you use you'll need to do some scrubbing. Karl M. Jon wrote: > I had the Ram's engine bay cleaned at a local detailing place a little > while ago; it was caked with baked on WNY clay/mud, thanks to this: > http://www.dakota-truck.net/meet/dmlbbq03 ;-) Anyway, they had this > pink degreaser in a spray bottle that REALLY cut through the dirt and > grime - I was impressed. I used to work at Burger King, and we had a > pink degreaser there too; I suspect it may be the same stuff. I'm not > sure what it is though, or where to get it. > > Anyone know the stuff I'm talking about? If so, where do I get it? :-) > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sun Mar 3 14:51:34 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Engine Degreasers Message-ID: <3C828CD5.358C8277@sedona.net> I've had good results with a combination of products. One of the better ones I've found is Gumout Steam Premium in an aerosol can. I believe it's citrus based and environmentally friendly. It doesn't seem to disturb the engine paint either. However if you have really thick deposits you're gonna have to scrape. The Gunk brand stuff in a spray can that has a high solvent content does a pretty good job on the thicker petroleum deposits if you let it soak in for a while. Then I use the Steam Premium on top of that. But no matter what you use you'll need to do some scrubbing. Karl M. Jon wrote: > I had the Ram's engine bay cleaned at a local detailing place a little > while ago; it was caked with baked on WNY clay/mud, thanks to this: > http://www.dakota-truck.net/meet/dmlbbq03 ;-) Anyway, they had this > pink degreaser in a spray bottle that REALLY cut through the dirt and > grime - I was impressed. I used to work at Burger King, and we had a > pink degreaser there too; I suspect it may be the same stuff. I'm not > sure what it is though, or where to get it. > > Anyone know the stuff I'm talking about? If so, where do I get it? :-) > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mark71GTX at hotmail.com Sun Mar 3 15:19:36 2002 From: Mark71GTX at hotmail.com (Mark Wood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Dash Pad again Message-ID: How much? If itnis cheap enough I might put it in my 71 since I disabled my A/C - has a 70 dash now with one crack in it. Mark Wood http://communities.msn.com/MarkandVelana 71 GTX, 71 Challenger, 77 Stepside, 80 shortbed, 84 RC 4x4, 97 4x4 Ram 1500 ----- Original Message ----- From: "shooter" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 1:21 AM Subject: Dash Pad again > Come on, there has to be someone on the list who needs a nice dash pad > for a 72-74 E body. (3 speaker, Black Non-AC, 4 spd). > > Mike > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Sun Mar 3 16:36:37 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Dirty carb???/ Message-ID: <004701c1c303$e2bc6440$7192fea9@computer> I have noticed the top of my 750 Holley dual line 4 barrell (installed on a 340) is black with what appears to be carbon. I havent run it hard or far, but could it be running rich or jetted wrong? I do not have the choke hooked up, and it seems to start/run fine. I did replace the front float and carefully adjusted the level as required. Maybe it backfired while trying to start and there was a small fire? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MidPenMopar at aol.com Sun Mar 3 16:39:38 2002 From: MidPenMopar at aol.com (MidPenMopar@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Brake drum questions Message-ID: <189.43cf796.29b4002a@aol.com> I have an extra set of complete brake drums that came from a 70 roadrunner. I know the 10 inch fronts are readily available, but are the 11 inch rear drums rare? or can they be had easily also. Basically I want to know if I should keep them? Stu To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dariusz at mnsi.net Sun Mar 3 16:54:07 2002 From: dariusz at mnsi.net (Dariusz Piatkowski) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:22 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <200203032254.g23Ms0L12888@e450.mnsi.net> Most important thing is to keep the RPM above 2000-2500 for the first 20-30 minutes. The cam lobes only get splash lubrication...if you don't have the RPM higher then idle not much oil will be coating the lobes. Also, depending on how big of a cam you're going with you might want to run with a single valve spring only if the cam calls for a double spring setup. This is only for cam break-in time. On Fri, 01 Mar 2002 21:55:14 -0500, Kevin Champ wrote: > With a bit of luck, I'll be firing up the 360 in the Mirada for the >first time this weekend. I've made up an oil pump priming rod and will >use that to prime the system before startup but I was looking for any >tips or suggestions for pre-start stuff and the actual running of the >engine for the break-in. > Kevin - Dariusz 1980 Dodge Diplomat Coupe, 360-4bbl, 727, 3.91 SG motivated sleeper! (in-progress at present time) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dariusz at mnsi.net Sun Mar 3 17:03:46 2002 From: dariusz at mnsi.net (Dariusz Piatkowski) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Edelbrocks and Thermoquads Message-ID: <200203032303.g23N3ZL17517@e450.mnsi.net> Hi Pete! Probably THE book on Carter carbs and TQs in particular is "Carter Carburetors" by Dave Emanuel, ISBN 0-931472-11-3, published by S-A Design. There have been many articles in the popular mags on rebuilding these carbs. I have a few scanned which I obtained from someone else so if you want the electronic copy drop me a line and I'll fire it off to you. As to the intakes, the Weiand Stealth is a square bore and Action is a spread bore intake, probably not the intake you are looking for though...it is comparable to the Edelbrock Performer, where as the Action piece is more like the Performer RPM intake. You can easily use an adapter on your intake, provided that hood clearance is not a problem you'll be just fine. On Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:39:28 -0700, Pete wrote: >Can someone recommend a good book on rebuilding Thermoquads and/or >Edelbrocks? > >What's a good midrange aluminum intake manifold that can accomodate a >Thermoquad on a smallblock? Engine in question would be a 318 with 360 >heads, eventually a TQ and 340 exhaust manifolds. I have a Weiand Stealth >right now but I'm assuming it won't accept the spread bore TQ. Is this >correct? >Pete - Dariusz 1980 Dodge Diplomat Coupe, 360-4bbl, 727, 3.91 SG motivated sleeper! (in-progress at present time) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dariusz at mnsi.net Sun Mar 3 16:54:07 2002 From: dariusz at mnsi.net (Dariusz Piatkowski) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <200203032254.g23Ms0L12888@e450.mnsi.net> Most important thing is to keep the RPM above 2000-2500 for the first 20-30 minutes. The cam lobes only get splash lubrication...if you don't have the RPM higher then idle not much oil will be coating the lobes. Also, depending on how big of a cam you're going with you might want to run with a single valve spring only if the cam calls for a double spring setup. This is only for cam break-in time. On Fri, 01 Mar 2002 21:55:14 -0500, Kevin Champ wrote: > With a bit of luck, I'll be firing up the 360 in the Mirada for the >first time this weekend. I've made up an oil pump priming rod and will >use that to prime the system before startup but I was looking for any >tips or suggestions for pre-start stuff and the actual running of the >engine for the break-in. > Kevin - Dariusz 1980 Dodge Diplomat Coupe, 360-4bbl, 727, 3.91 SG motivated sleeper! (in-progress at present time) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dariusz at mnsi.net Sun Mar 3 17:03:46 2002 From: dariusz at mnsi.net (Dariusz Piatkowski) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Edelbrocks and Thermoquads Message-ID: <200203032303.g23N3ZL17517@e450.mnsi.net> Hi Pete! Probably THE book on Carter carbs and TQs in particular is "Carter Carburetors" by Dave Emanuel, ISBN 0-931472-11-3, published by S-A Design. There have been many articles in the popular mags on rebuilding these carbs. I have a few scanned which I obtained from someone else so if you want the electronic copy drop me a line and I'll fire it off to you. As to the intakes, the Weiand Stealth is a square bore and Action is a spread bore intake, probably not the intake you are looking for though...it is comparable to the Edelbrock Performer, where as the Action piece is more like the Performer RPM intake. You can easily use an adapter on your intake, provided that hood clearance is not a problem you'll be just fine. On Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:39:28 -0700, Pete wrote: >Can someone recommend a good book on rebuilding Thermoquads and/or >Edelbrocks? > >What's a good midrange aluminum intake manifold that can accomodate a >Thermoquad on a smallblock? Engine in question would be a 318 with 360 >heads, eventually a TQ and 340 exhaust manifolds. I have a Weiand Stealth >right now but I'm assuming it won't accept the spread bore TQ. Is this >correct? >Pete - Dariusz 1980 Dodge Diplomat Coupe, 360-4bbl, 727, 3.91 SG motivated sleeper! (in-progress at present time) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sun Mar 3 19:28:37 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Need help identifying dash pod... Message-ID: <3C82CDC5.D0C89D9E@earthlink.net> Just picked this up today, it's in great shape...but what's it from? I'm guessing early - mid '50s Cranbrook or Savoy? http://www.thewingnut.com/images/misc/gauge_pod.jpg Everything seems to be in exceptional shape...I'm thinking of turning it into a wall hanger if I can't get much for it. Maybe figure out how to hook up some lights... -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Commander in Chief, WWII Aviation Legacy H.Q., San Jose, CA Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. R.I.P. Maybelle, '68 Fury III. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sun Mar 3 19:28:37 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Need help identifying dash pod... Message-ID: <3C82CDC5.D0C89D9E@earthlink.net> Just picked this up today, it's in great shape...but what's it from? I'm guessing early - mid '50s Cranbrook or Savoy? http://www.thewingnut.com/images/misc/gauge_pod.jpg Everything seems to be in exceptional shape...I'm thinking of turning it into a wall hanger if I can't get much for it. Maybe figure out how to hook up some lights... -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Commander in Chief, WWII Aviation Legacy H.Q., San Jose, CA Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. R.I.P. Maybelle, '68 Fury III. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From abody711 at comcast.net Sun Mar 3 19:35:05 2002 From: abody711 at comcast.net (Allen) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Need Info on numbers for 67 Fury III Message-ID: <004f01c1c31c$d000d2a0$ac7ba8c0@astrainhome> Looking at a 67 FuryIII convertible. The only breakdown I can find on numbers so far is 4523 total. Does anyone have the engine and tranny numbers. TIA Allen Strain Hixson, TN 67 Belvedere Convertiblw 318 - 01 Dakota QC 4.7 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at aol.com Sun Mar 3 20:33:10 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at aol.com (Ms68mopar1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: emails and Iwant racing Message-ID: <69.23094815.29b436e6@aol.com> I am just going to use aol 5.0 since they to through to mml . Now for the racing I want to Rialito Airport with my 67 Cuda (daily driver) and raced today. Speeds ranged from 51.-- to 62.-- mph , et's ranged from 11.379 to 11.707, Reaction time from my 1 one the worst 1.185 down to my best (last) .659. I sure you racers realize this was 1/8 mile. I made 6 passes and had a BLAST. My Cuda is a 318 out of a 74 Duster and is STOCK and an automatic. I couldn't stay for the dial in time races, but next time I will. Was the slowest car car but I had a blast and with dial in times, and handicaps It is possible I could win some races. Is team Mopar looking for a "Granny" race drover? Ms. Mopar (Yvonne) 67 Cuda, 68 Roadrunner, 63 500 Vert' Polara To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at aol.com Sun Mar 3 20:33:10 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at aol.com (Ms68mopar1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: emails and Iwant racing Message-ID: <69.23094815.29b436e6@aol.com> I am just going to use aol 5.0 since they to through to mml . Now for the racing I want to Rialito Airport with my 67 Cuda (daily driver) and raced today. Speeds ranged from 51.-- to 62.-- mph , et's ranged from 11.379 to 11.707, Reaction time from my 1 one the worst 1.185 down to my best (last) .659. I sure you racers realize this was 1/8 mile. I made 6 passes and had a BLAST. My Cuda is a 318 out of a 74 Duster and is STOCK and an automatic. I couldn't stay for the dial in time races, but next time I will. Was the slowest car car but I had a blast and with dial in times, and handicaps It is possible I could win some races. Is team Mopar looking for a "Granny" race drover? Ms. Mopar (Yvonne) 67 Cuda, 68 Roadrunner, 63 500 Vert' Polara To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tpuig at ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 3 21:06:34 2002 From: tpuig at ix.netcom.com (Tony Puig) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: wheel cylinder pin/pushrod, '69 Dart Message-ID: <3C82E4BA.DE707056@ix.netcom.com> Anyone have a part number handy for the wheel cylinder pushrods from the '69 Dart 9" front drums? (I don't have a '69 FSM.) It's been quite an adventure geting my nephew's car roadworthy. Long story made short - he tossed the old wheel cylinders and the new ones didn't have the pushrods. Are other years interchangeable? Anybody got a couple (4) laying around? Neither Kragen nor Pep Boys were of any help. Figure I'll do a NAPA run tomorrow, but the local one is fairly worthless in terms of getting the right part for us. Thanks Car is a stock '69 Dart, 225/auto, drums all around. Future front disc conversion project, but not soon enough... TP To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tpuig at ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 3 21:06:34 2002 From: tpuig at ix.netcom.com (Tony Puig) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: wheel cylinder pin/pushrod, '69 Dart Message-ID: <3C82E4BA.DE707056@ix.netcom.com> Anyone have a part number handy for the wheel cylinder pushrods from the '69 Dart 9" front drums? (I don't have a '69 FSM.) It's been quite an adventure geting my nephew's car roadworthy. Long story made short - he tossed the old wheel cylinders and the new ones didn't have the pushrods. Are other years interchangeable? Anybody got a couple (4) laying around? Neither Kragen nor Pep Boys were of any help. Figure I'll do a NAPA run tomorrow, but the local one is fairly worthless in terms of getting the right part for us. Thanks Car is a stock '69 Dart, 225/auto, drums all around. Future front disc conversion project, but not soon enough... TP To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From don.rey at uconn.edu Sun Mar 3 21:42:22 2002 From: don.rey at uconn.edu (Don Rey) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Question from an ignorant newbie... Message-ID: <0cb801c1c32e$97c55b10$158a6389@radon> My roomate (who isn't much of a car buff) and I were trying to figure this one out tonight... it might be a newbie question to ask, but hey... I'm a newbie. What is a fuel cell? I don't mean the hydrogen and oxygen fuel cells that power the space shuttle and hybrid cars. I mean the ones I've seen in the trunks of cars at shows and at the drag strip. I've gathered that it must enhance performance... some of them coordinate with Nitrous Oxide systems... But what are they? And what's involved in installing them? Since the MML's been reletively quiet this weekend, I figured I would do something about it. Still learning.... Don 74 Dart Sport 340 CT To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudadream at yahoo.com Sun Mar 3 21:45:42 2002 From: cudadream at yahoo.com (Mark Schwartz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Lojack Message-ID: <20020304034542.58606.qmail@web21202.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Has anyone had any experience using lojack on their car? I would love to hear positive and negative comments. How much did you spend for the install and monthly payments? Has anyone installed it on there muscle car or only a newer vehicle? thanks, tomcat 70 hemicuda vert clone http://crazy4mopar.tripod.com/tomcatscuda.htm __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rrudd28 at nwebs.com Sun Mar 3 22:56:54 2002 From: rrudd28 at nwebs.com (The Disappearing Boy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: 69 Coronet Hood Hinges Message-ID: <00a301c1c339$01e76a60$3c5b58d8@user> Anyone need a good pair of 69 Coronet Hood Hinges? They're nice and tight, no bends. I'm asking 20 for the pair. Ray Funke 69 Fury 3 ragtop 70 Imperial LeBaron 4dr HT To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Sun Mar 3 22:51:23 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Converter Help- THanks Message-ID: <199.32998ad.29b4574b@aol.com> Thanks all for the converter help. I am using the 383's converter. It should perform well. --ian 68 Newport (440!) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rsorak at midsouth.rr.com Sun Mar 3 23:31:13 2002 From: rsorak at midsouth.rr.com (Richard Sorak) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Question from an ignorant newbie... Message-ID: <179265781763.20020303233113@midsouth.rr.com> Hey Don, Sunday, March 03, 2002, 9:42:22 PM, you wrote: .. What is a fuel cell? . A replacement gas tank that's designed with safety and maximum fuel delivery in mind. They're safer because they're filled with a foam that will keep the fuel from gushing out is they're punctured. They also have pickups designed to always pick up the fuel. And what's involved in installing them? remove the stock tank and find a secure place to bolt in the new fuel cell usually the trunk or stock tank location. Plumb the fuel line. -- Take care, Richard mailto:rsorak@midsouth.rr.com Ex-Pro Wrench w/15+ yrs exp. Now 'puter geek for hire. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From don.rey at uconn.edu Sun Mar 3 23:44:49 2002 From: don.rey at uconn.edu (Don Rey) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Question from an ignorant newbie... Message-ID: <0cea01c1c33f$b3307d60$158a6389@radon> *lightbulb* ah, now i get it! thanks, Don (a little less a newbie now) 74 Dart Sport 340 CT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Sorak" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:31 AM Subject: Re: Question from an ignorant newbie... > Hey Don, > > Sunday, March 03, 2002, 9:42:22 PM, you wrote: > > . What is a fuel cell? . > A replacement gas tank that's designed with safety and maximum fuel > delivery in mind. They're safer because they're filled with a foam > that will keep the fuel from gushing out is they're punctured. They > also have pickups designed to always pick up the fuel. > > And what's involved in installing them? > > remove the stock tank and find a secure place to bolt in the new > fuel cell usually the trunk or stock tank location. Plumb the fuel > line. > > -- > Take care, > Richard mailto:rsorak@midsouth.rr.com > Ex-Pro Wrench w/15+ yrs exp. > Now 'puter geek for hire. > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Mon Mar 4 00:16:17 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: UAW-DaimlerChrysler 400 Message-ID: <001401c1c344$18ad2f40$0300000a@al> How fitting. Dodge wins, hats off to Sterling Marlin . Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net Mon Mar 4 00:26:22 2002 From: rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net (Tem) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: WOO-HOOO!!! Message-ID: <3C83138E.C21DE0E9@worldnet.att.net> The Fort Worth Rod and Custom Show ended tonight, and I am more than pleased to announce that I WON my class!! I was in "Antiques Restored-Restored D" and was the only Mopar in the class. I was up against Olds Pace cars, Shelby Mustangs, and the like. But when the dust cleared, my Challenger was on top!! My thanks to those on the list who have helped me with a few parts over the last few months. Almost to excited to sleep, Tem To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From j.grosso at ix.netcom.com Mon Mar 4 08:42:28 2002 From: j.grosso at ix.netcom.com (James Grosso) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: 383 question Message-ID: <000e01c1c38a$d2cdf260$05000006@grossoix.netcom.com> Karl M, Are those shift points for real? 8,000 RPM with a mid sized hydraulic cam sounds unrealistic, especially if only using "stock" HP valve springs? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl M." To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 12:50 PM Subject: Re: 383 question > I rebuilt the 383 in my 70 Chally using the Hemi Street grind "Purple Shaft" > hydraulic cam with stock HP valve springs (this was in 1982). The bottom end > was stock with fully grooved mains and a good balancing job. Shift points were > 1st - 2nd 8000 rpm, 2nd - 3rd 7500 rpm and 3rd - 4th 7000 rpm. Although this > doesn't directly answer your question I hope the info will help. As for a stock > 383 Magnum in good shape.... I'd say about 6000 or so rpm would be safe. My > belief is that fully grooved mains can really help keep a bottom end from > spinning a bearing at higher rpm levels. > > Karl M. > > > At 11:16 Post 3/1/2002 -0500, MidPenMopar@aol.com wrote: > > >I was in a discussion with another mopar enthusiast today on what is the > > >limit you could safely rev a stock 383 HP motor to, without damaging the > > >motor? Nothing prolonged, just a short trip to the redline. > > >Thanks for any answers, > > >Stu > > >70 roadrunner > > > > -- > Karl M. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- > > 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph > was 14.50 @ 95 mph > 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) > 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C > 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From j.grosso at ix.netcom.com Mon Mar 4 08:47:32 2002 From: j.grosso at ix.netcom.com (James Grosso) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! Message-ID: <003e01c1c38b$84bc7be0$05000006@grossoix.netcom.com> What year torque converter and transmission? There was a change in the number of spines on the transmissions input shaft around 1967. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 12:26 PM Subject: Converter Help needed ASAP! > I'm trying to put my 440 converter in the trans that was behind the 383. They should swap, right? For some reason I just can't get it on! > > I've tried pushing as I rotate the converter, pulling it off, rotating a little and pushing back on, nothing seems to work. It won't set back all the way. > > I need to get the engine in today. Please help ASAP! > Thanks > --ian > 68 Newport > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Mon Mar 4 09:14:37 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B2890@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> Tom wrote: A couple of fans to keep headers cool is good, as they WILL glow red due to lack of airflow even if mixtures are rich. A glowing header can IGNITE a drop of oil, and a fire is definitely undesirable. Tom two questions: -Why should your headers glow....mine didnt. -My engine builder did the initial fire up varying RPM 2,000-3,000 like you said. Shut it down, changed the oil then did about 12 pulls on an engine dyno (340, 411HP, 405 ft lbs in case anyone was wondering) ;>) When he delivered the engine he said it was fully broken in. (he builds many of the circle track and 1/4 mile engines in the area) Your comments please??? "smokin" Joe 71 340 Challenger R/T (411HP on pump gas!) 2001 RAM Off Road 91 Harley Low Rider borg@att.com / jborg@exchange.ml.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From j.grosso at ix.netcom.com Mon Mar 4 09:23:55 2002 From: j.grosso at ix.netcom.com (James Grosso) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: UAW-DaimlerChrysler 400 Message-ID: <009501c1c390$9a1d4140$05000006@grossoix.netcom.com> Good for Sterling Marlin! He got ripped off the last two races. He should have won under caution at the Daytona 500, and he was in second place ready to take first when they finished the last race (forgot the name) under yellow. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Big Al" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 11:16 PM Subject: UAW-DaimlerChrysler 400 > How fitting. Dodge wins, hats off to Sterling Marlin . > > Al > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Mon Mar 4 09:26:05 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Bee Sticker Question on 71 Chally Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B2891@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> Is a 71 Challenger supposed to have the Bee stickers on the rear vent windows??? "smokin" Joe 71 340 Challenger R/T (411HP on pump gas!) 2001 RAM Off Road 91 Harley Low Rider borg@att.com / jborg@exchange.ml.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wilkie_steven at emc.com Mon Mar 4 09:26:21 2002 From: wilkie_steven at emc.com (wilkie, steven) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Moving forward.... Message-ID: <69C8DD8179FCD41187CC0003470E019603907725@srstarr.lss.emc.com> Well I've made the next move in finishing one car and starting on the other. I just order a new dash pad, seat covers and window wipes from Year One for my '70 Cuda. This weekend I removed the alternator for a rebuild and installed a new 6psi fuel pump that will hopefully take car of my high rpm running out of gas problem. We did notice that the old fuel line we had in there was a bit pinched after I installed a new inline fuel filter so that might have been the problem or a combination of both. I also have a guy lined up to remove my windsheild and install the proper mounting clips for my windsheild trim and I removed the interior windshield pieces and started dying them black in my basement. So pretty soon I'll have the outside trim done, the inside trim dyed the correct black color with the rest of the interior, new dash, new seats, and my door window felts, runners, and wipes installed to stop the rattling which was minor but annoying. Can you say DONE? I know it's never done but darn close I'd say! Now for the next ride......Thanks to Dan Harling I'm having a big block 727 rebuilt as we speak and starting my planning to rebuild my 383 and have body work done on the '71 Cuda to get that one road ready. Can you say NEXT! It's been a long time coming that I've gotten to this point and want to thank everyone on the MML for all the help with parts and info and just keeping my spirits high enough to continue along the road to Mopar bliss!!!! I still feel I'm about two years away from finishing the other one as I can only go so far before I run out of money and have to save up again but I'm getting there and hope to fullfill my dream of dueling Cuda Verts in this life.....not next.... I've realized that although parts for these cars are expensive, it's all the little things that kill ya!!!!! and mine are clones for gods sake!!! Wilks The Connecticut Connection 1970 Cuda Vert Clone 1971 Barracuda Vert 1988 Ram50 4X4 1997 Ram1500 SLT Laramie 4X4 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From John.Bynum at arnold.af.mil Mon Mar 4 09:26:52 2002 From: John.Bynum at arnold.af.mil (Bynum John W Contr AEDC/ACS) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: 4 speed station wagons Message-ID: From: "Ruth Kuntz" Subject: 4 speed station wagons i was just wondering if anybody knows wnat station wagons came with four speeds? i was talking to a guy that knows where theres one sitting. he thinks its a big block. he said it said custom on one of the emblems. thanks nick kuntz Nick, There is an original 67 Blevidere wagon at my shop that was 383 4 speed car from factory, and a 70 Sattelite wagon that was also 383 4 speed nearby. Both these cars were bought new by the same person, (the 70 is still seeing daily service with over 350K on it) John Bynum 79 Lebaron, 89 Caravan, 94 Cherokee Sport, 71 Roadrunner, 68 Charger R/T, 57 Dodge pickup To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Mon Mar 4 09:38:28 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: Lojack Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C7919756057F9F@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:45:42 -0800 (PST) From: Mark Schwartz >Has anyone had any experience using lojack on their >car? I would love to hear positive and negative >comments. How much did you spend for the install and >monthly payments? Has anyone installed it on there >muscle car or only a newer vehicle? I have never popped for Lojack but the last three new car purchases I have had to listen to the sales pitch. The price has gone from about $500.00 to $650.00 over the years and now includes a conventional alarm with the package. I have never heard mention of any monthly fee for having the system. Here in Mass it nets you the max 35% discount on the theft portion of your car insurance. On a typical new car that will save you the cost of the system over a 5 year period. One thing that I have noticed is that Lojack used to advertise better than 95% receovery rate and now they advertise better than 90%. I do not know if that means that theives are getting better at defeating it, the systems are being poorly installed or made and don't work as well or that there is a much bigger population and 90% is a more accurate number. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Dyatona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http:\\www.geocities.com\dgc333 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Mon Mar 4 10:04:42 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (daty rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:23 2004 Subject: WOO-HOOO!!! Message-ID: <005001c1c396$4be69d40$7785ed0c@attbi.com> Congrats Tem! Weather kept me in the house Saturday, Sunday was full of Scout stuff so I didn't make it over there. Great job an a wonderful Challenger. -Daty > The Fort Worth Rod and Custom Show ended tonight, and I am more than > pleased to announce that I WON my class!! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mopar1 at nightlands.com Mon Mar 4 10:25:25 2002 From: Mopar1 at nightlands.com (Racer Rick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: How do I unlock an engine? Message-ID: <200203040825.AA59441358@nightlands.com> I used liquid wrench - soaking the bores for a couple of days, and a BIG breaker bar to try to turn it over on the crank. I found that drowning the pistons worked well and every engine I have done has loosened up enough that I could rotate the crank and get the pistons out with a 4x4 block of wood and a BFH. __________________________________________________ D O T E A S Y - "Join the web hosting revolution!" http://www.doteasy.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mopar1 at nightlands.com Mon Mar 4 11:04:03 2002 From: Mopar1 at nightlands.com (Racer Rick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 4 speed station wagons Message-ID: <200203040904.AA65536336@nightlands.com> > There is an original 67 Blevidere wagon at my shop that was 383 4 speed >car from factory, There is a pale yellow one with a black interior near me that is a 383-2 4 gear also. I also know of a 70' Coronet Wagon with a 383-4 pistol grip four speed in it. 1 of 8. Its also pale yellow with woodgrain! Talk about a sleeper! __________________________________________________ D O T E A S Y - "Join the web hosting revolution!" http://www.doteasy.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu Mon Mar 4 11:58:17 2002 From: mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu (mike d) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020304095555.00adf870@mail.sdsu.edu> Please e-mail me directly. HELP! My brother has a 71 Challenger that recently was the victim of a 99 Mustang. Don't want to bore you with all the details...The Mustang fell on top of the Challenger -the car is now a parts car. The windshield, frame around the windshield, and roof are crushed. The Insurance company wants to give him $2,000 for the car. He needs evidence that the car is worth more, since they say that "book" value is what they will pay. Background on the car: 71 originally 318, now 383 slapstick A/C car rebuilt motor magnum 500's Rallye Hood Needed paint and interior but the rest of the car was in good shape. Any info he can give them would be helpful Thanks Mike D To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Mon Mar 4 12:35:25 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B2897@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> This is for a regular Challenger not an RT: The URL is :http://www.vmrintl.com/cctm/coll_frame.htm Collector Car & Truck Market Current Value: 1971 DODGE CHALLENGER 318-230hp (8cyl-2V) AT #5 #4 #3 #2 #1 2dr Convertible 1950 4550 8350 12600 17375 2dr Hardtop 675 2850 6125 8825 11975 Add: 383-275hp (8cyl-2V) 10% 383-335hp (8cyl-4V) 20% 440-390hp (8cyl-3x2V) 80% 4spd manual trans 7% Air conditioning 12% Rallye dash 8% SE pkg 8% Deduct: 225-145hp (6cyl-1V) -15% 3spd manual transmission -10% Manual steering -5% Column shift -5% "smokin" Joe 71 340 Challenger R/T (411HP on pump gas!) 2001 RAM Off Road 91 Harley Low Rider borg@att.com / jborg@exchange.ml.com -----Original Message----- From: mike d [mailto:mdimaio@mail.sdsu.edu] Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:58 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: 71 Challenger Value Please e-mail me directly. HELP! My brother has a 71 Challenger that recently was the victim of a 99 Mustang. Don't want to bore you with all the details...The Mustang fell on top of the Challenger -the car is now a parts car. The windshield, frame around the windshield, and roof are crushed. The Insurance company wants to give him $2,000 for the car. He needs evidence that the car is worth more, since they say that "book" value is what they will pay. Background on the car: 71 originally 318, now 383 slapstick A/C car rebuilt motor magnum 500's Rallye Hood Needed paint and interior but the rest of the car was in good shape. Any info he can give them would be helpful Thanks Mike D To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Mon Mar 4 12:41:26 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Is a #1 Car??? Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B2898@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> Does a #1 car mean it has to be fully original?My 71 RT Challenger has been restored to what I consider #1 condition. What I mean is EVERYTHING is new. wiring, brake lines, motor etc. The thing is its modified. 11-3/4" discs, a 4 spd instead of the automatic, prowler yellow, etc. Can it be a #1? A 2? how would the value be determined? "smokin" Joe 71 340 Challenger R/T (411HP on pump gas!) 2001 RAM Off Road 91 Harley Low Rider borg@att.com / jborg@exchange.ml.com -----Original Message----- From: mike d [mailto:mdimaio@mail.sdsu.edu] Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:58 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: 71 Challenger Value Please e-mail me directly. HELP! My brother has a 71 Challenger that recently was the victim of a 99 Mustang. Don't want to bore you with all the details...The Mustang fell on top of the Challenger -the car is now a parts car. The windshield, frame around the windshield, and roof are crushed. The Insurance company wants to give him $2,000 for the car. He needs evidence that the car is worth more, since they say that "book" value is what they will pay. Background on the car: 71 originally 318, now 383 slapstick A/C car rebuilt motor magnum 500's Rallye Hood Needed paint and interior but the rest of the car was in good shape. Any info he can give them would be helpful Thanks Mike D To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cowboys at utdallas.edu Mon Mar 4 12:45:52 2002 From: cowboys at utdallas.edu (Giant A. Aryani) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: What value did he have it insured for, if he had either agreed value or stated value insurance? Also, go to www.nada.com and check for prices of classic cars. Edmunds.com may have a similar feature. Sounds like they are totally low-balling him. Have him ask them what book they are using. Good luck. Have a nice day --------------- Giant On Mon, 4 Mar 2002, mike d wrote: > My brother has a 71 Challenger that recently was the victim of a 99 Mustang. > Don't want to bore you with all the details...The Mustang fell on top of > the Challenger -the car is now a parts car. The > windshield, frame around the windshield, and roof are crushed. > The Insurance company wants to give him $2,000 for the car. He needs > evidence that the car is worth more, since they say that "book" value is > what they will pay. > Background on the car: > 71 originally 318, now 383 > slapstick > A/C car > rebuilt motor > magnum 500's > Rallye Hood > Needed paint and interior but the rest of the car was in good shape. > Any info he can give them would be helpful To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Mon Mar 4 13:25:34 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: wheel cylinder pin/pushrod, '69 Dart Message-ID: Tony Puig writes... >Anyone have a part number handy for the wheel cylinder pushrods from the >'69 Dart 9" front drums? (I don't have a '69 FSM.) It's been quite an >adventure geting my nephew's car roadworthy. Long story made short - he >tossed the old wheel cylinders and the new ones didn't have the >pushrods. Are other years interchangeable? Anybody got a couple (4) >laying around? Neither Kragen nor Pep Boys were of any help. Figure >I'll do a NAPA run tomorrow, but the local one is fairly worthless in >terms of getting the right part for us. Hi Tony, It sounds as if your nephew has been taking lessons from my kids! They all seem to be automotively challenged. Throwing away valuable parts, just to keep their place clean! What's this world coming to? I suspect that the little pushrods are highly interchangeable. Maybe even between different car manufacturers. At any rate, it seems that a trip to the boneyards is in order. Be sure to bring your nephew, so he can get good and dirty. That always makes a good impression on his parents... 8-) ( When I was a kid, people wouldn't let me ride in their car because my pants were so dirty!) CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Mon Mar 4 14:24:47 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Is a #1 Car??? Message-ID: not a number #1 car if its modified. >From: "Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)" >Reply-To: "Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)" >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: Is a #1 Car??? >Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:41:26 -0500 > >Does a #1 car mean it has to be fully original?My 71 RT Challenger >has been restored to what I consider #1 condition. What I mean is >EVERYTHING is new. wiring, brake lines, motor etc. The thing is its >modified. 11-3/4" discs, a 4 spd instead of the automatic, prowler >yellow, etc. Can it be a #1? A 2? how would the value be determined? > >"smokin" Joe >71 340 Challenger R/T _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From miconi at hotmail.com Mon Mar 4 15:37:19 2002 From: miconi at hotmail.com (Jon Miconi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Topic: 1972 Road Runner???? or?? Message-ID: This was posted to another list that I am on. I told him that I would post it here to get people's opinions on the vehicle. I don't know anything else about the car other then it is Orlando, FL. -------------------- theres a guy around here selling a 1972 "road runner" but theres a few things i find wrong with it. #1, it's yellow, and not the original green, thats all in the engine bay #2 it says 340 on it, but i think it's a 318 ,but don't know how to tell. #3, the interior is greenish and it says Satellite on the dashboard. the car looks fine, and sounds nice, but he want's 4K for it... but i'm not sure about it because i don't feel like being ripped off. -------------------- Jon Miconi `80 Ramcharger 360 `77 Ramcharger 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Mon Mar 4 15:38:27 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <00df01c1c3c4$eb74a0e0$0300000a@al> Back to the original question of how to break in a cam. We always pour a quart of oil on the cam and lifters. Then some on the rocker arms. Put on the intake and valve covers and fire it up. Never had one fail, never buzzed a new engine at 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 minutes either. GM used to sell an additive for the oil when you replaced the cam. Came in about a 10 OZ can. I poured that right on the cam also. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net Mon Mar 4 15:31:36 2002 From: bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net (Bryan Rupp) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Pics of my Dodge big rig Message-ID: <3C83E7B8.FFB7B011@acsalaska.net> Here's the url to my web page with pictures of the Dodge C800 that I bought last October. Not pretty but I wanted something that could pull more then a Cummins powered 1 ton Dodge. :-) I made the page using regular HTML code so it should be good for any browser. If you have any problems viewing the pics please let me know. http://www.acsalaska.net/~bryan.rupp/Dodge_C800.html I also have some pics of some 1/35th scale WWII Dodge trucks models at: http://www.acsalaska.net/~bryan.rupp/models.html. I'm almost finished with a 1/25th scale 1971 Charger R/T and will be adding pics of it later this week. Thanks, Bryan To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From brian.hagen at verizon.net Mon Mar 4 16:39:04 2002 From: brian.hagen at verizon.net (Brian Hagen) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Topic: 1972 Road Runner???? or?? Message-ID: It ain't no Road Runner would be my guess. And if all the vin numbers match to a Road Runner, It still ain't a 'full' one with the wrong dash and such. Is he claiming its gen-u-ine? Brian http://www.scatpack.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From T3lightbronze at aol.com Mon Mar 4 16:38:13 2002 From: T3lightbronze at aol.com (T3lightbronze@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Topic: 1972 Road Runner???? or?? Message-ID: <38.24220661.29b55155@aol.com> John, The engine displacement is easy. Either stamped on the flat machined surface under the odd cyl. bank on the front of the block- R.H. side facing the radiator; or cast (usually every time) into the block, can't remember if it's the driv. or pass. side. >>says Satellite on the dashboard Usually a dead giveaway to a clone, esp. if the would-be seller is not real familiar w/ Mopars. VIN should start RM23H1 if it is a 340 car, a real Road Runner. If it's RH23G that's a 318 Satellite Sebring. A base Satellite would start RL23, w/ a "G" for 318, and an "H" for a 340 car, if they ever made one. Good Luck, but it sounds fake. Morgan Billingslea '69 Charger '72 Demon '71 Fury Custom Suburban 383-9passenger. '85 CJ-7 (Stephanie's Mopar-for now) '92 Shadow (Steph's other Mopar) Bel Air MD To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From T3lightbronze at aol.com Mon Mar 4 16:39:39 2002 From: T3lightbronze at aol.com (T3lightbronze@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Topic: 1972 Road Runner???? or?? Message-ID: <8f.18278ee4.29b551ab@aol.com> Whoops, substitute a "2" where I typed "1" in that message! Morgan Billingslea '69 Charger '72 Demon '71 Fury Custom Suburban 383-9passenger. '85 CJ-7 (Stephanie's Mopar-for now) '92 Shadow (Steph's other Mopar) Bel Air MD To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wwatson at direct.ca Mon Mar 4 17:03:32 2002 From: wwatson at direct.ca (Bill Watson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Topic: 1972 Road Runner???? or?? Message-ID: <000401c1c3d1$1a4b2cc0$0b8c42d8@bill> Jon, The second digit in the VIN will determine if it really is a Roadrunner (the first being "R" for the Satellte line) : L - Satellite M - Roadrunner H - Sebring (also Satellite Custom) P - Sebring Plus (also Satellite Regent) As for engines, the fifth digit would tell you what engine came with the car : H - (E55) - 340-cid V8, 4-bbl carb P - (E68) - 400-cid V8, 4-bbl carb U - (E86) - 440-cid V8, 4-bbl carb V - (E87) - 440-cid V8, 3, 2-bbl carb The digits in parentheses (E55, etc) are the digits used on the data plate for the engine, which are the first three digits on the bottom row of the data plate. The 400-cid V8 was standard, while the others were optional. Any other engines were not offered on the Roadrunner. Other engines that were available on Satellite/Sebring models, but not the Roadrunner : C - (E24) - 225-cid 6, 1-bbl carb G - (E44) - 318-cid V8, 2-bbl carb M - (E63) - 400-cid V8, 2-bbl carb By the way, the dashboard should have "Roadrunner" on it, and should have the Rally Cluster with four round gauge housings. The Roadrunner also used a unique "performance" hood with what looked like two "vents' positioned sideways on the hood. From these two "vents". an optional tape treatment was available that ran from the "vent" to the top of the wheel opening. Also, the standard seat in a Roadrunner was a cloth and vinyl bench. Optional were an all-vinyl bench seator all-vinyl high-back bucket seats. Hope this helps. Bill Vancouver, BC > This was posted to another list that I am on. I told him that I would > post it here to get people's opinions on the vehicle. I don't know > anything else about the car other then it is Orlando, FL. > > -------------------- > > theres a guy around here selling a 1972 "road runner" but theres a few > things i find wrong with it. > > #1, it's yellow, and not the original green, thats all in the engine > bay > > #2 it says 340 on it, but i think it's a 318 ,but don't know how to > tell. > > #3, the interior is greenish and it says Satellite on the dashboard. > > the car looks fine, and sounds nice, but he want's 4K for it... but > i'm not sure about it because i don't feel like being ripped off. > > -------------------- > > Jon Miconi > `80 Ramcharger 360 > `77 Ramcharger 440 > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2g95c at verizon.net Mon Mar 4 17:19:27 2002 From: vze2g95c at verizon.net (Tom Showers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <005201c1c3d3$1be39520$b9752c81@ed> > Tom wrote: > > A couple of fans to keep headers cool is good, as they WILL glow red due > to lack of airflow even if mixtures are rich. A glowing header can IGNITE a > drop of oil, and a fire is definitely undesirable. > > Tom > two questions: > > -Why should your headers glow....mine didnt. It's common for them to glow, especially thin wall race headers like Hooker Super Comp's. A glowing header simply means it's getting hot, and the extra RPM without movement down the road just makes it more visible. If you saw this on your car while driving, it's usually a sign of lean mixture. During a no load break-in, with lots of ignition timing, even a slightly rich mix will 'glow tubes'. If your engine happens to be jetted a step or two rich, it may not do this. During my break-in, I could move the distributor a bit and make the color change. It tells you it's hot, but NOT whether it's too hot; that's what probes are for, along with careful spark plug inspection after initial runs. > -My engine builder did the initial fire up varying RPM 2,000-3,000 like you said. Shut it down, changed the oil then did about 12 pulls on an engine dyno (340, 411HP, 405 ft lbs in case anyone was > wondering) ;>) > > When he delivered the engine he said it was fully broken in. (he builds many of the circle track and 1/4 mile engines in the area) > > Your comments please??? To properly break in, an engine must actually wear away the high spots in the rings and the cylinder walls so these parts can seal against one another. The better the wall finish and the higher quality of the rings the less time this takes. If an engine is run too hard (or not hard enough) when fresh it can cause rings to glaze over and NEVER seat, resulting in an engine that smokes, never makes max power, and will never perform like you intended it to. The dyno simulates normal driving conditions, and is adjustable enough to vary the load, so as not to wear out an engine while breaking it in. (this was a problem on older dyno's) Those are pretty good numbers for only a few pulls. You might find that a test today would show it is producing even more power. We used to break in engines on Bon-Ami cleansing powder after changing rings in between rounds in Super Stock 340's. We could tell by the pitch change in the staging lanes that it was ready to fly. Some guys would use the burnout for break in, especially with gas ported pistons, where the harder you push it the better it seals. Another thing, I tend to want to leave any of the assembly lube from the cam in the engine for a while. I don't see how it can hurt, and even Chrysler recommends leaving their cam change supplement in for at least 500 miles. I do change the filter to get rid of the inevitable assembly dirt, as soon as the cam break-in is done. Tom To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2g95c at verizon.net Mon Mar 4 17:31:59 2002 From: vze2g95c at verizon.net (Tom Showers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <00b801c1c3d4$c84da7a0$b9752c81@ed> > Back to the original question of how to break in a cam. We always pour a > quart of oil on the cam and lifters. Then some on the rocker arms. Put on > the intake and valve covers and fire it up. Never had one fail, never buzzed > a new engine at 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 minutes either. GM used to sell an > additive for the oil when you replaced the cam. Came in about a 10 OZ can. I > poured that right on the cam also. Low valvespring pressures, stock camshafts, that'll work fine, roller cam engines there is NO cam break-in, just start it up and drive. The short block is another story. You should make a concerted effort to accel and decel the engine under load if possible to effectively wash loose particles from the rings and cylinder walls, or they will delay the sealing effect, and the extra oil will carbonize on the ring and wall surface and produce unwanted blowby, likely FOREVER. I could go on and on, but doing it any other way is foolish and a sure-fire way to risk destroying an engine. It WILL perform better and longer if done correctly, PERIOD. Tom Showers 70 Roadrunner 500 inch Wedge 31 Plymouth 2DR sedan rod project 89 Lebaron drag car project To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SSTEIN2 at aol.com Mon Mar 4 18:02:05 2002 From: SSTEIN2 at aol.com (SSTEIN2@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: <194.33ab71f.29b564fd@aol.com> I would take all the #1 318 Challenger convertibles I could get at that price. Steve >>>>>Collector Car & Truck Market Current Value: 1971 DODGE CHALLENGER 318-230hp (8cyl-2V) AT #5 #4 #3 #2 #1 2dr Convertible 1950 4550 8350 12600 17375 2dr Hardtop 675 2850 6125 8825 11975 <<<<< To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From blbrizzi1 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 4 18:14:47 2002 From: blbrizzi1 at yahoo.com (Brent Brizzi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <20020305001447.75016.qmail@web10501.mail.yahoo.com> I recently bought a 78 Fury, that either needs the engine worked on or replaced. My question is, I may have a possible cop car, and am trying to find out. It has the 318 with a four barrel thermoquad? At least I think that's what my friend said. He said that's very unusual for this car to have a four barrel. Also, it has heavy duty sway bars. Is there any other way to determine if it was a former cop car? I have another 318 from a donor car, would the internal parts be the same from both 318's. I guess what I'm trying to say is, would it be a good idea to rebuild the 318 engine that came with the car, as it may be a cop car? Or, should I just put in the engine that I have from my donor car, and swap out the manifold and four barrel? Thanks for any help. Brent __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net Mon Mar 4 17:37:03 2002 From: rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net (Tem) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: WOO-HOOO!!! Message-ID: <3C84051F.50718F@worldnet.att.net> Thanks so much to everyone for the kudos'. I had a lot of fun, and I am just so thrilled to have done this at this particular show. But I made a small error. I wasn't the only Mopar in the class. Danny H. (whom I don't think is on the list) was in my class as well with his FE5 70 Six Pack Cuda. I must admit I don't remember if he won anything or not. As a matter of fact, I was so nervous I'm suprised I herd MY name called. My apologies to Danny, and thanks again. Tem (and for those who have not seen the car before, go to: www.cowtownmopars.org And if they aren't up already, there should soon be pics of all our club's participants at this show.) dan4510@attbi.com wrote: > Congratulations on your win. > > It is a beautiful car and well deserved. > > Dan > > The Fort Worth Rod and Custom Show ended tonight, and I am more than > > pleased to announce that I WON my class!! > > > > I was in "Antiques Restored-Restored D" and was the only Mopar in the > > class. > > Tem > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2dp8c at verizon.net Mon Mar 4 18:26:33 2002 From: vze2dp8c at verizon.net (Peter Engel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 72 Road Runner ??? Message-ID: <3C8410B9.55594326@verizon.net> Jon, Get the VIN and data plate info from the guy and post it here. Then he'll find out just what he has (or what it started life as). To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2dp8c at verizon.net Mon Mar 4 18:28:39 2002 From: vze2dp8c at verizon.net (Peter Engel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Pics of Alaskan big rig Message-ID: <3C841137.B06D69BF@verizon.net> Bryan, I like the way the fender and bumper are hinged to access the engine. That's pretty cool. Never seen it before. What's up with that Delcotron alternator? Maybe it automatically came with the Cat. Just looking at those pics makes me cold! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kcbilse at chibardun.net Mon Mar 4 18:14:41 2002 From: kcbilse at chibardun.net (curt bilse) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: Mark Osborn Message-ID: <3C840DF0.5F402E3A@chibardun.net> Anyone heard if they found a replacment for Mark Osborn yet? Curt Bilse 69 Bee 68 Cuda vert To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Mon Mar 4 19:02:15 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: Brent Brizzi writes... >I recently bought a 78 Fury, that either needs the >engine worked on or replaced. My question is, I may >have a possible cop car, and am trying to find out. >It has the 318 with a four barrel thermoquad... Also, it has heavy >duty sway bars. Is there >any other way to determine if it was a former cop car? > I have another 318 from a donor car... would it be a good idea to >rebuild the 318 engine that came with the car...? Or, should I just >put in the engine >that I have from my donor car, and swap out the >manifold and four barrel? Thanks for any help. Hi Brent, All my experience has been with later model Diplomats, so I don't know anything about the classic copcars. But others on the list will tell you what to look for in the way of fender tag codes and the like. About the engine, a lot will depend on what you want to do with the car, and what condition your donor parts are in. If you want to make a real fire-breathing monster out of it, it may be possible to put in a big block engine. If you just want to get bulletproof reliability and reasonably good mileage out of it, you'll want a 2 bbl 318 and a lock-up torque converter. I don't know about putting a 4 bbl carb and 360 intake on your 2 bbl 318 engine. That combination works very well in the lighter Diplomats, but it may not be worth the trouble in a real classic Fury. Finally, I'd check on the local smog laws. In this cruel world, the smog requirements put severe constraints on what we can do with our cars. Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Mon Mar 4 19:02:24 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 71 challenger value Message-ID: <3C83C4C0.30094.25624C0@localhost> Go to www.collectorcartraderonline.com They have a way to show you the average value of all the 71 challengers for sale at that time. Also you could look on hemmings sight, and oldcartrader. There is also the NADA guides. My suggestion for the future is to use a collector car insurance agency like hagerty (www.hagerty.com) who will insure the car for stated value. Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Mon Mar 4 19:02:24 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:24 2004 Subject: 71 challenger value Message-ID: <3C83C4C0.30094.25624C0@localhost> Go to www.collectorcartraderonline.com They have a way to show you the average value of all the 71 challengers for sale at that time. Also you could look on hemmings sight, and oldcartrader. There is also the NADA guides. My suggestion for the future is to use a collector car insurance agency like hagerty (www.hagerty.com) who will insure the car for stated value. Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mkvien at wiktel.com Mon Mar 4 19:12:01 2002 From: mkvien at wiktel.com (Matthew Kvien) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: I have a 78 Fury Police car that I am parting out. It is a former Minnesota Highway Patrol car. It had a 440 and has a certified speedo. It also had a separate tag that says special handling car on the rad support. Does your car have this speedo and tag, then it may be a cop car? Matt -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu]On Behalf Of Brent Brizzi Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 6:15 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? I recently bought a 78 Fury, that either needs the engine worked on or replaced. My question is, I may have a possible cop car, and am trying to find out. It has the 318 with a four barrel thermoquad? At least I think that's what my friend said. He said that's very unusual for this car to have a four barrel. Also, it has heavy duty sway bars. Is there any other way to determine if it was a former cop car? I have another 318 from a donor car, would the internal parts be the same from both 318's. I guess what I'm trying to say is, would it be a good idea to rebuild the 318 engine that came with the car, as it may be a cop car? Or, should I just put in the engine that I have from my donor car, and swap out the manifold and four barrel? Thanks for any help. Brent __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mkvien at wiktel.com Mon Mar 4 19:12:01 2002 From: mkvien at wiktel.com (Matthew Kvien) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: I have a 78 Fury Police car that I am parting out. It is a former Minnesota Highway Patrol car. It had a 440 and has a certified speedo. It also had a separate tag that says special handling car on the rad support. Does your car have this speedo and tag, then it may be a cop car? Matt -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu]On Behalf Of Brent Brizzi Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 6:15 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? I recently bought a 78 Fury, that either needs the engine worked on or replaced. My question is, I may have a possible cop car, and am trying to find out. It has the 318 with a four barrel thermoquad? At least I think that's what my friend said. He said that's very unusual for this car to have a four barrel. Also, it has heavy duty sway bars. Is there any other way to determine if it was a former cop car? I have another 318 from a donor car, would the internal parts be the same from both 318's. I guess what I'm trying to say is, would it be a good idea to rebuild the 318 engine that came with the car, as it may be a cop car? Or, should I just put in the engine that I have from my donor car, and swap out the manifold and four barrel? Thanks for any help. Brent __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball http://sports.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Mon Mar 4 20:40:21 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Chrysler Lebaron drag car? Message-ID: <004701c1c3ef$19cf4a60$7192fea9@computer> I recently saw someones sig listing a Lebaron Drag car project. I would like to hear more about that. Was thinking that the frontal area of these is quite a bit more air flow friendly that most of the older Mopar slab side fronts, probably even lighter after all the safety stuff is removed. I would assume that the front/rear chassis would have to be tied, but was not sure if that would be enough to handle small block power since they were equipped with the v6. That combo might make for a neat street machine? Comments? Ideas? George in Tallahassee: '71 Cuda, '68 Dart GT, '97 Sebring Vert To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cowboys at utdallas.edu Mon Mar 4 20:44:53 2002 From: cowboys at utdallas.edu (Giant A. Aryani) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: Does it say A38 anywhere on the fender tag? Have a nice day --------------- Giant On Mon, 4 Mar 2002, Brent Brizzi wrote: > I recently bought a 78 Fury, that either needs the > engine worked on or replaced. My question is, I may > have a possible cop car, and am trying to find out. > It has the 318 with a four barrel thermoquad? At > least I think that's what my friend said. He said > that's very unusual for this car to have a four > barrel. Also, it has heavy duty sway bars. Is there > any other way to determine if it was a former cop car? > I have another 318 from a donor car, would the > internal parts be the same from both 318's. I guess > what I'm trying to say is, would it be a good idea to > rebuild the 318 engine that came with the car, as it > may be a cop car? Or, should I just put in the engine > that I have from my donor car, and swap out the > manifold and four barrel? Thanks for any help. > > Brent > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball > http://sports.yahoo.com > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mrmopar66 at earthlink.net Mon Mar 4 21:03:52 2002 From: mrmopar66 at earthlink.net (Mr. Mopar) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Dash pod Message-ID: On Sun, 03 Mar 2002, A.J. Hunt wrote: Subject: Need help identifying dash pod... Just picked this up today, it's in great shape... but what's it from? I'm guessing early - mid '50s Cranbrook or Savoy? http://www.thewingnut.com/images/misc/gauge_pod.jpg Everything seems to be in exceptional shape...I'm thinking of turning it into a wall hanger if I can't get much for it. Maybe figure out how to hook up some lights... -------------------------------- AJ, It's been a long time since I've seen one of those. It is either from a 1957 or 1958 Plymouth. I'm not sure whether there was any difference in the dashes back then between the trim levels of the cars (IE Belvedere vs Savoy). It is one of the two years for sure, and I'm thinking '58. Duane Betts Wichita Falls, TX To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mrmopar66 at earthlink.net Mon Mar 4 21:03:52 2002 From: mrmopar66 at earthlink.net (Mr. Mopar) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Dash pod Message-ID: On Sun, 03 Mar 2002, A.J. Hunt wrote: Subject: Need help identifying dash pod... Just picked this up today, it's in great shape... but what's it from? I'm guessing early - mid '50s Cranbrook or Savoy? http://www.thewingnut.com/images/misc/gauge_pod.jpg Everything seems to be in exceptional shape...I'm thinking of turning it into a wall hanger if I can't get much for it. Maybe figure out how to hook up some lights... -------------------------------- AJ, It's been a long time since I've seen one of those. It is either from a 1957 or 1958 Plymouth. I'm not sure whether there was any difference in the dashes back then between the trim levels of the cars (IE Belvedere vs Savoy). It is one of the two years for sure, and I'm thinking '58. Duane Betts Wichita Falls, TX To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mike4karen at socket.net Mon Mar 4 21:22:37 2002 From: mike4karen at socket.net (Mike and Karen Schrader) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: New truck Message-ID: <007f01c1c3f5$041874c0$e8266ad8@computer> I bought a 99 Dodge 3500 Cummins 2 wheel drive. I love it. I will post some pictures on my web site as soon as get the chance. Anybody got any ideas why the trip odometer in the overhead console just registers 0.0 I've tried resetting it. I even pulled the batteries and tried to reset it that way. No luck. I didn't get the owners manual with it so I'm do the best I can. Mike & Karen Schrader 573-893-6582 Jefferson City, MO 1969 Dodge Charger - #'s Matching **** 1969 Plymouth RoadRunner 1993 Chrysler Concorde **** 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT X-Cab 1999 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT Quad cab www.geocities.com/mike4karen To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bbeep71 at ix.netcom.com Mon Mar 4 21:28:00 2002 From: bbeep71 at ix.netcom.com (Dave Goerlich) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Topic: 1972 Road Runner???? or?? Message-ID: <3C843B40.1010904@ix.netcom.com> T3lightbronze@aol.com wrote: >Usually a dead giveaway to a clone, esp. if the would-be seller is >not real familiar w/ Mopars. VIN should start RM23H1 if it is a 340 >car, a real Road Runner. If it's RH23G that's a 318 Satellite >Sebring. A base Satellite would start RL23, w/ a "G" for 318, and >an "H" for a 340 car, if they ever made one. Good Luck, but it >sounds fake. Yup, if it's a real Road Runner, the VIN will start RM23H1.... For the record, the base Satellite (RL) was only available as a coupe (21), and only available as a 318 or \6. If the car has fixed quarter windows (as in they don't roll down) 100% sure it's NOT a Road Runner, and it will have an RL21... VIN. RH23 is a Satellite Sebring, RP23 is a Satellite Sebring Plus, and an RS23 would be a GTX, but I can't remember if 72 GTX's got the RS23 VIN's or if they were still RM23's, since the GTX was a package on the Road Runner. BTW, I know of 2 71 Satellite coupes that wound up as 383-4bbl/4spd cars (RL21N1...), but I don't know of any 72's like that. (400-4bbl cars that is). -- Dave Goerlich (Cleveland) 71 Road Runner (383/4spd) 71 Charger 500 (383/Auto) *For Sale* 68 Barracuda Fastback (318/Auto) http://www.RoadRunnerNest.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net Mon Mar 4 20:44:16 2002 From: bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net (Bryan Rupp) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Pics of Alaskan big rig Message-ID: <3C843100.95856F78@acsalaska.net> I like the hinged fenders too. I had never seen a Dodge big rig in person before and did not know that the fenders could do that. When I found the truck the business owner gave me permission to go back and look at it. When I saw the release levers I pulled on the one for the left side to see if it allowed the panel above the fender to swing out, like on the 6x6 deuce and a half trucks that Kaiser-Jeep built for the military. Anyhow, the next thing I know I had the whole fender swinging out at me. I thought I had broken the fender off as the area near the release lever was rusty (the only real rust on the whole truck). :-) Needless to say I was very happy to find out that it was supposed to do that. Makes it a lot easier to work on the engine. I used to have a factory 440 powered Ramcharger that had about 4 in. of lift and 33 in. tires. Working on the engine gave you both a belly ache and a back ache. As far as the alternator I guess it came with the cat also. I have yet to come across any other heavy duty Dodges with a Caterpillar engine so I have no sort of comparison. The only other diesel engines in Dodges that I have seen were the more common Cummins V-8 diesels. Caterpillar engine were only available during the last three years of semi truck production versus Cummins having been available for something like ten years in the same trucks. And the temperature up here aint all that bad. I was outside for awhile today and it was warm enough that a jacket was hardly needed. Almost tee-shirt weather. ;-) Bryan Peter Engel wrote: > > Bryan, > > I like the way the fender and bumper are hinged to access the engine. > That's pretty cool. Never seen it before. What's up with that > Delcotron alternator? Maybe it automatically came with the Cat. > Just looking at those pics makes me cold! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From RS70CHGRRT at aol.com Mon Mar 4 21:40:26 2002 From: RS70CHGRRT at aol.com (RS70CHGRRT@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: PT Rescue Cruiser Message-ID: I ran across this pic while surfing. The fire dept is a local volunteer unit. It is a suburb of San Antonio TX. http://www.ci.windcrest.tx.us/wc_fire/wcfd_main_menu.htm Pretty cool huh!!! Robert To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From shawn.mcclelland at cognicase.com Mon Mar 4 21:55:47 2002 From: shawn.mcclelland at cognicase.com (McClelland, Shawn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: I have gone throught this with a 84 Celica. Perfect rust free condition and written off by the insurance company. They wanted to give me $300. for it. I had to get it appraised after the accident to get a value for the car.. They upped the value the $3000. I promptly settled for $2700 which included getting the car back. The story here is that if you think that the car is worth alot more, then you need to prove it to the insurance company. Otherwise it is like saying you also had a Picasso on the roof. Shawn McClelland 1970 AAR Cuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From enolagay at execulink.com Mon Mar 4 22:07:37 2002 From: enolagay at execulink.com (340 EH) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 75 Jensen Interceptor at Auction Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020304230501.00ac36d0@execulink.com> Look for Item #179 on this page http://www.okotokscarauction.com looks nice wasn't someone looking for one of these on the list? Do you want it bad enough to come to Canada? 8-) Richard Middleton 1970 Dart Swinger 340, 727, 2:73 SG ( 15.2 @ 90 mph) 1998 Dakota ACR 318, 5sp, 3:92 SG ( 15.5 @ 87 mph) London, ON Look for Item # To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Mon Mar 4 22:19:27 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Cam break in tips? Message-ID: <00c601c1c3fc$f44dd140$66ac1840@laptop> >Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:38:27 -0700 >From: "Big Al" > >Back to the original question of how to break in a cam. We always pour a >quart of oil on the cam and lifters. Then some on the rocker arms. Put on >the intake and valve covers and fire it up. Never had one fail, never buzzed >a new engine at 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 minutes either. GM used to sell an >additive for the oil when you replaced the cam. Came in about a 10 OZ can. I >poured that right on the cam also. Assemble the cam and lifters with a coating of cam break-in lube (NOT engine oil or assembly grease) on the wear surfaces. The lube should come with the cam. Don't pour any oil onto it. The break-in requires the microscopic high spots on the surfaces to wear down. The special lube allows this to occur until normal splash lubrication occurs. 1500-1700 rpm for 5-10 minutes is more than adequate; break-in is more effective if the car is driven. Coat the wear surfaces of the rockers and pushrods with oil during assembly. An additional squirt of oil on these parts won't hurt anything, and pouring on the oil won't help anything either. Prime the oil system and run the engine. btw don't over-lube pistons and rings, or they may not seat. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gd1996 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 4 22:54:06 2002 From: gd1996 at yahoo.com (Joe Barchesky) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Dodge Ram V10 6 pseed 500hp!!! Message-ID: <20020305045406.43776.qmail@web13306.mail.yahoo.com> Did anybody see the new hot rod with this truck in, 45k for it, but a 0-6 in 5 seconds, 12.9 in the quarter, viper brakes, lowered suspesnion and it goes on... I really hope I hit the lottery, I really want a truck and this would be the perfect one, oh 500 ft lbs of torque too. Even the new neons, srt or something, 200+ hp, fastest car for under 20k, top speed 148mph. I want to see some serious rwd cars, but its a start. I also read about how they have a new program, which created these two vehicles. They also mentioned about discontuning the prowler and will have a new vehicle to take its place, 5.7 HEMI? I hope so... now if they just make it a little cheaper. Joe B 69 Road Runner 440 68 Sport Satellite many more... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rhuish at goldrush.com Mon Mar 4 23:20:59 2002 From: rhuish at goldrush.com (CudaBob) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Dash pod Message-ID: <3C83E53B.3308.2BE3F42@localhost> On Sun, 03 Mar 2002, A.J. Hunt wrote: > > Subject: Need help identifying dash pod... > > Just picked this up today, it's in great shape... but what's it from? > I'm guessing early - mid '50s Cranbrook or Savoy? > http://www.thewingnut.com/images/misc/gauge_pod.jpg Everything seems > to be in exceptional shape...I'm thinking of turning it into a wall > hanger if I can't get much for it. Maybe figure out how to hook up > some lights... > That's interesting, have one on a shelf in the pump house (storage area #3). I believe 57 & 58 pods were identical with the following exceptions. Fury had a 150 mph speedo with gold background and both Fury / Belvedere came with a clock in the lower right instrument location. The instrument light pods have a green lens... nice eerie effect. CudaBob '65 - Angels Camp, Calif CudaBob@workmail.com http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From PiscesM21 at aol.com Mon Mar 4 23:28:18 2002 From: PiscesM21 at aol.com (PiscesM21@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <143.a7eb973.29b5b172@aol.com> I would check the fender tags VERY closely. I have a 1978 Dodge Monaco CHP car and it is the LAST year that 440's were put in police cars. My car has 3 fender tags with options listed. Some options you might check for are a/c, transmission cooler, and power steering cooler. They have HUGE drum brakes on the rear I believe 11". Also check the drivers door, there should be a number on the door, that tells the car number for the department. Also a lot of them have reflectors on the drivers door for his safety. I don't think its a police car but could be a fire chiefs car or even a taxi. I also have a 1970 Fury NC HP car it doesn't have power steering & its serial # starts with a W the serial number starts with a P on the 78. I have proof both are Police Cars. Wish you luck. Charles in California To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rrudd28 at nwebs.com Tue Mar 5 00:08:06 2002 From: rrudd28 at nwebs.com (The Disappearing Boy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <002501c1c40c$1e6fa750$3b5b58d8@user> I've found cop cars in junkyards before, and every one of them had a fender tag that had a "K" before the number above the sequence number in the far right bottom row. Ray Funke 69 Fury 3 ragtop 70 Imperial LeBaron 4dr HT To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cowboys at utdallas.edu Tue Mar 5 00:22:13 2002 From: cowboys at utdallas.edu (Giant A. Aryani) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: I just checked one of the books I have. '78 Fury copcars did not come with a 4bbl 318 engine. The only 318 in a copcar was the 2bbl version. Let us know what engine code is on the fender tag. It should start with an E and have two numeric digits following it. I'm assuming your Fury is either not a copcar or its carburetor or engine was replaced along the way. Have a nice day --------------- Giant > Does it say A38 anywhere on the fender tag? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From freew67 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 5 01:01:20 2002 From: freew67 at yahoo.com (Jeff W.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Dodge Ram V10 6 pseed 500hp!!! Message-ID: <20020305070120.32489.qmail@web20003.mail.yahoo.com> They actually havent put a price tag on it yet. --- Joe Barchesky wrote: > Did anybody see the new hot rod with this truck in, > 45k for it, but a 0-6 in 5 seconds, 12.9 in the > quarter, viper brakes, lowered suspesnion and it > goes > on __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mml at heminet.com Tue Mar 5 06:30:20 2002 From: mml at heminet.com (Ted Moore) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Chrysler Lebaron drag car? Message-ID: George and all MMLers, There are tons of Chrysler 4-cylinder Turbo Front Wheel Drive cars running in the 12s, 11s and even the 10s - all streetable, I believe. My favorite is the 12.6 sec mini-van. Check out Gary Donovan's Dodge Garage in the "Halls of Fame" section at: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/index.html Lots of fun with (mostly) cheap mods to (mostly) cheap cars. Turn up the boost, the fuel flow to the injectors, and go. Ted Moore - Carefree, AZ www.heminet.com www.TnTNetwork.com Web Sites and Databases 70 RR F8 Dark Green 383; 86 Daytona Turbo Z/CS - White; 75 XCab D200 Adventurer SE 440 Copper; 87 Shelby Lancer (5spd #252); 89 LeBaron GT Vert - White To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tulipano at bnl.gov Tue Mar 5 07:20:39 2002 From: tulipano at bnl.gov (RIch Tulipano) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: We're Expecting Message-ID: <3C84C627.8C723605@bnl.gov> Just ordered an '02 Stratus Coupe R/T. Very nice looking/handling car. Sporty and classy at the same time. With the V6, not a slouch either. If only they would move the drive wheels back 110 inches or so. And put that new little Hemi under the hood......ahhhhh but I can dream. Expect delivery around mid-april. So we are still a Mopar family: '67 Dart '97 Stratus (wife) '95 Ram (son) '02 Startus (on order) While I'm here: My Dart seems to be "bucking" slightly at between 2000-2400 rpm when I'm just cruising down the road. I put in an MP electronic ignition recently and don't feel it's timed quite right. Would I be wise to degree it, and start over? Or should I be looking for something else. How do I put a degree wheel on an engine that's in the car? Rich Tulipano '67 Dart GT/340 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Tue Mar 5 08:22:49 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Mark Osborn Message-ID: <011201c1c451$3b11c560$0200000a@dna> Not yet. Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 7:14 PM Subject: Mark Osborn > Anyone heard if they found a replacment for Mark Osborn yet? > Curt Bilse To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dforsyth at kscable.com Tue Mar 5 08:37:56 2002 From: dforsyth at kscable.com (David Forsyth) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: New here and writing a E-Body book ! Message-ID: <020101c1c453$57536f60$1d9c1e41@KSCABLE.com> I was refered by Matt at www.hardcoremopar.com and he told me some of you may be interested in my project. Hello all, I am touching base with everyone to let you know I am diligently still working on the E-Body book. In this email I pose one question. What are the differences between the stock barracuda and it's AAR counterpart? What are the differences between the stock Challenger and the T/A Challenger? I ask this really wanting to know. I don't consider myself the all-mighty one when it comes to this knowledge and I am welcoming all input on this subject as I do not want to leave out anything important. No fact is to small or to large. All I ask is if possible please include your source or paperwork. Thanks again for all the help and I look forward to including your information and source credit. I went ahead and attached my needs list as it has not changed much. Thanks again, I hope the world is treating you well. BELOW IS MY HISTORY AND NEEDS LIST..... This is new as of 05March02 I am the author of the T/A Challenger - AAR 'cuda and E- Body(s) (including all E-body variations/ models) restoration guide and I am now offering space in my book for the following listed items and requesting real documentation to support some of my text. This is a rare chance for future readers to get to put their 2 cents in early. David J. Forsyth 2140 SW Macvicar Apt 5 Topeka KS 66611 (785) 969-5349 Dforsyth@kscable.com I was requested by many to create a detailed list of needed items for the book. Well here goes. Copies, scans and originals are fine. I will consider purchases, I do not have many resources but please give me a chance before dismissing the thought of volunteering the information. 1. Original E-body Plymouth and Dodge a. Window Sticker Badly needed b. Original warranty information sheets Badly needed c. Dealer order forms d. Technical Service Bulletins 1968 to 1974 e. Build-sheet/ Broadcast sheets f. I know I am forgetting something... 2. Original dealer/ factory invoices 3. Any original factory paper work including available paint and interior info. Any original 1970, 71, 72, 73 and 1974 dealer data books showing interior/ exterior combinations available to the certain models. Badly needed 4. Pictures of Fender-tags for option listing comparison. 5. Pictures of body numbers (these are found on cowling, radiator support and trunk sill (supposedly not on E-bodies but I have been told otherwise.), Badly needed 6. Any circa 1970 pictures of AARs or T/A Challengers 7. Pictures of original body/ chassis inspection marks and stamps Badly needed (these are the paint splotches and ink number stampings on body and chassis) 8. Pictures of properly optioned interiors and exteriors Badly needed with the relevant codes to put in the book with the picture. 9. Pictures of properly optioned engine compartments and chassis 10. AAR or T/A Challenger trivia information (whatever you think is fun or interesting, confirmed true) 11. And anything you E-body and AAR and T/A lovers want to offer!!! Please give me you web sites and contact info if you want me to put you on my contact list and to give you credit for your information/ picture contributions. Now who am I: My name is David Forsyth. Since 1992 I have been working on a concours level restoration book for the AAR Cuda, T/A Challenger and Plymouth E-body. I am in desperate need of original paper work to verify my facts and figures. And finally I am also at the point of looking to add filler and reference photos. This is no joke, for 10 years i have worked on this. I have little money to offer but freely offer literary credit; I am interested in pictures of authentic exteriors, interiors, engines and especially original paint daubs and stencil marks throughout the car. If possible someone close to Kansas City that I could do a photo shoot with. My book is written at the level of a 300-point restoration including paint daubs and stencil marks (factory inspection markings). The pics would be referenced as to the photographer and the owner of vehicle, so you still would have the privilege of saying "there's my car". Secondly i will be providing a self printed bench copy in the beginning within a year and hope to do a glossy reference copy as soon as i find a suitable publisher. If you happen to know of a publisher that would be interested that would be great too. Please understand I have put blood sweat and tears into this book. I reference information from original Chrysler parts books, dealers books, original advertisements, Ditzler paint books and factory papers of production and more. I have decided to add a little bit of nostalgia to the book instead of it being all dry tech info. I wanted to run this idea by everyone out there. Out of all the people with ownership and interest I know there are a quite few who have collected many interesting if not unusual items dealing with AARs and T/As. I will give full credit for the resource if i don't already have the item. This way some of the people who have put their heart into this hobby can get some recognition for their work. I have been asked why I need papers like build sheets and invoices. A great example is the question raised lately about whether the AAR Cuda came with "brushed" or "polished" trim rings on the Rallye wheels. This question can easily be answered with a look at an original build sheet showing "W21", the build code W21 is for Rallye wheel option with "polished" trim rings in 1970. Cross referencing with the original 1970 Parts and option book shows Plymouths with the W21 sales code came with polished rings with Rallye wheels also. Now following this train of thought; you understand that the more examples I can find in original paper work the more detailed my book can be for restorationist. Another example is the question of a 1971 T/A Challenger. I also understand the fear held by some in giving up even copies of this paper work. I can reassure you that I will keep my records in strictest confidence and not print anything without permission. If you feel that more protection is needed please cover just the Last three digits of the VIN number. I can still use the first three digits for reference and your paperwork stays safe. I have also been asked for years to finish this book so people can have all the info to help restore their car. I am not ashamed to say I can't do that without all of your help. I don't mind enclosing a few pages in my book just for thanks to the individuals who help me. Just think how we always wished to have our cars pictured in a monthly magazine; now you can have your car immortalized in a book! A magazine last but a month a book last forever. The latter is the list of documentation and items I am looking for. And yes I will be happy to list all who submit information as sources of reference material. Please include the names of the photographer and owner if you wish to be recognized. Thanks again David Forsyth To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wwatson at direct.ca Tue Mar 5 03:22:54 2002 From: wwatson at direct.ca (Bill Watson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <00db01c1c427$57c0b420$068c42d8@bill> I think you have the first digit of the VINs reversed - the 1970 Plymouth Fury should start with "P" and the 1978 Dodge Monaco should start with "W". The police package was "A38", and should appear on the data tag. The taxi package was "A37". In 1977 the Aspen (N), Monaco (W), and Royal Monaco (D) Police models used the letter "K" as the second digit in the VIN. However, the 1978 models did not use the letter "K", and were built on the Monaco (WL). Here in Canada the 318 with 4-bbl carb ("H" in the VIN) was available on Dodge Aspen, Dodge Diplomat, Dodge Monaco, Dodge Magnum, Plymouth Volare, Plymouth Caravelle, Plymouth Fury, Chrysler LeBaron and Chrysler Cordoba. I owned a 1978 Dodge Monaco Brougham 2-door with the 4-bbl 318. Combined with the lock-up torque converter it gave decent gas mileage on the highway. Bill Vancouver, BC > I would check the fender tags VERY closely. I have a 1978 Dodge Monaco CHP > car and it is the LAST year that 440's were put in police cars. My car has 3 > fender tags with options listed. Some options you might check for are a/c, > transmission cooler, and power steering cooler. They have HUGE drum brakes > on the rear I believe 11". > Also check the drivers door, there should be a number on the door, that tells > the car number for the department. Also a lot of them have reflectors on the > drivers door for his safety. I don't think its a police car but could be a > fire chiefs car or even a taxi. I also have a 1970 Fury NC HP car it doesn't > have power steering & its serial # starts with a W the serial number starts > with a P on the 78. I have proof both are Police Cars. > Wish you luck. > Charles in California > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Tue Mar 5 08:36:44 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (George) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Inexpensive Electronic Ignition Message-ID: <200203050936.AA262248@nettally.com> I want to upgrade the ignition on my '68 Dart slant 6 for ease of starting and more efficient performance, not necessarily more power orspeed. Is the Pertronix system the best way to go? I really do not want to change the distributor/add a box etc. Thanks, george in tallahassee To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tigers at bserv.com Tue Mar 5 08:57:15 2002 From: tigers at bserv.com (Bob Tom) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: Couple of quicky Qs Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020305095049.009f3150@bserv.com> Hi Anyone know approx. weight of 8 stainless steel intake valves (1.92) for Magnum V8 or LA 318 (should be close enough)? Anyone sent a small parcel to Ont., Canada using USPS? How secure and can it be tracked? Who pays custom fees? I'm looking at about 1 week delivery so it'll probably be by air. I gather it cheaper than UPS. TIA. Bob. 97 Dakota CC Sport, 5.2L, 3.92SG auto., 4x2, 14.313 95.05 96 Dodge Grand Caravan ES, 3.8L 85 Dodge Shelby Intercooled Turbo Charger, 2.2L, 5-spd man., 15.01 95.50 78 Dodge customized B100 with '69 340-4bbl, 3-spd auto. 70 Dodge Challenger, 383-4bbl, slap-stik auto., 3.23, hemi orange, # matching, 330hp 425 lb-ft To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From TClein at billard.com Tue Mar 5 09:16:08 2002 From: TClein at billard.com (Tim Clein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:25 2004 Subject: 71 challenger value Message-ID: <5B98DA5E04ADD51182A300D0B7A79C222D2D33@WTB-MAIL> just wondering what my 71 convertible 383 4bbl is worth ? power windows ac,disc brakes am/fm w/cassette magnums code y28 dealer promo? I have owned this car since 1980 but I never see any value listed for 71 bb car only 1970 any ideas car is in a solid #2 condition To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From harling at cadence.com Tue Mar 5 09:19:59 2002 From: harling at cadence.com (Dan Harling) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: Pics of my Dodge big rig Message-ID: <0D3972F302D58440BD35BF14DC48AF5604F5E6@exmbx01chel.global.cadence.com> > From: Bryan Rupp [mailto:bryan.rupp@acsalaska.net] > Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 4:32 PM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: Pics of my Dodge big rig > > Here's the url to my web page with pictures of the Dodge C800 > that I bought last October... > http://www.acsalaska.net/~bryan.rupp/Dodge_C800.html > > I also have some pics of some 1/35th scale WWII Dodge trucks > models at: > http://www.acsalaska.net/~bryan.rupp/models.html So your hobbies include 1:35 scale trucks and 2:1 scale trucks... _________________________________________________________________________ Daniel A. Harling <>< Member of Consulting Staff Cadence Design Systems http://www.cadence.com Chelmsford, MA To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Tue Mar 5 10:26:27 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: 71 challenger value Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B28A0@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> http://www.vmrintl.com/cctm/coll_frame.htm -----Original Message----- From: Tim Clein [mailto:TClein@billard.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 10:16 AM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: 71 challenger value just wondering what my 71 convertible 383 4bbl is worth ? power windows ac,disc brakes am/fm w/cassette magnums code y28 dealer promo? I have owned this car since 1980 but I never see any value listed for 71 bb car only 1970 any ideas car is in a solid #2 condition To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From crtech at hot.rr.com Tue Mar 5 10:44:58 2002 From: crtech at hot.rr.com (Gus) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: 3.9L engine rebuild Message-ID: <002201c1c465$18005320$6401a8c0@firewalker> Well it looks like I may be doing a rebuild after all. Is there anything that can be done to it that would give it more power with out breaking the check book? This is an 89 3.9 with an automatic overdrive. (pre mag) Thanks for any suggestions. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Tue Mar 5 11:22:54 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: Inexpensive Electronic Ignition Message-ID: yes >From: "George" >Reply-To: "George" >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: Inexpensive Electronic Ignition >Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 09:36:44 -0500 > >I want to upgrade the ignition on my '68 Dart slant 6 for ease of >starting and more efficient performance, not necessarily more >power orspeed. Is the Pertronix system the best way to go? I >really do not want to change the distributor/add a box etc. >Thanks, george in tallahassee > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rrudd28 at nwebs.com Tue Mar 5 12:00:52 2002 From: rrudd28 at nwebs.com (The Disappearing Boy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: This sucks unlike anything has ever sucked before Message-ID: <008d01c1c46f$b12a06e0$3b5b58d8@user> Well, I took the Fury into the claims adjuster, and after my deductible, I wind up netting 103 bucks. The total claim would have been 303 bucks. So, this pretty much guarantees that I get to do the work myself, cause if I took it into a shop, it'd cost at least 400 bucks to repair. So that worthless pile of crap that hit me got 200 bucks out of me. The insurance company is going to try to collect. Something tells me that this product of an illicit tryst between a hippo and a bush pig isn't going to pay up. Ray Funke 69 Fury 3 ragtop 70 Imperial LeBaron 4dr HT To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2dp8c at verizon.net Tue Mar 5 12:17:36 2002 From: vze2dp8c at verizon.net (Peter Engel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car Message-ID: <3C850BC0.CEBDCE85@verizon.net> Others have indicated what you need to do to verify that the car was built as a police car and i agree. The data plate info is key. The yard I worked in bought a genuine 78 cop car in the early 80s. It was a 440 car and had been part of a high speed chase. The cop car driver had pulled some kind of "Dukes of Hazzard" stunt. Except that in real life the car didn't get airborne and then land to drive away just fine. The front bumper was all bent and scraped up on the bottom and the car was kinked in half. Big clumps of soil were jammed up inside the rear bumper. It was funny to see it parked on a flat parking lot because the rockers almost touched the ground around the middle of the car. I think we paid $400 for the car at auction and it had 2X,000 miles. It did run. The car sat around for several years because the yard owner wanted too much for the "police special" 440. I pulled the certified speedo and other dash gauges -- I may still have them! Well one day a guy with a brown Dodge "B" party van comes in and gets all excited about the "police special" 440. He wants to put it in his van. I was skeptical. But he did it! Somehow. He torched the front crossmember to make room for the oilpan and did some mount modifications too. I remember that the engine didn't sit right (level and straight). Unfortunately he also scrapped the Lean Burn spark control computer and replaced the dual pickup distributor with a point-type setup. Can you say "big brown turd?" I don't know if it was the Lean Burn cam grind or what but that thing ran like a slant 6. It started just fine and idled great but made no power. He came back a few times and complained about the engine being junk but that wasn't the case. Must have been the modifications. Pete in PA To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From abody711 at comcast.net Tue Mar 5 13:30:11 2002 From: abody711 at comcast.net (Allen Strain) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: Engine tranny swap. Message-ID: <001801c1c47c$35d90b50$1b05a8c0@olanmills.com> Looking at swapping a 318 engine and tranny from a 87 Dodge Ram into my Son's 93 Dodge Ram that has V6 currently. Wondering what if any problems I will run into doing this type swap. Thanks Allen Strain Hixson, TN 67 Belvedere Vert 318 - 01 Dakota QC 4.7 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Tue Mar 5 13:55:21 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: Engine tranny swap. Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B28AD@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> Contact Schumaker Creative Services. They make swap kits with conversion mounts. -----Original Message----- From: Allen Strain [mailto:abody711@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 2:30 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Engine tranny swap. Looking at swapping a 318 engine and tranny from a 87 Dodge Ram into my Son's 93 Dodge Ram that has V6 currently. Wondering what if any problems I will run into doing this type swap. Thanks Allen Strain Hixson, TN 67 Belvedere Vert 318 - 01 Dakota QC 4.7 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Tue Mar 5 14:36:31 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (daty rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: wheel inquiry Message-ID: <00b301c1c485$6f8b9e40$7785ed0c@attbi.com> Does anyone have access to extensive wheel/rim catalogs around here? I'm looking for a wheel made by Old Tire Co., part#11207991C4, supposed to fit a Camaro (it came from a Camaro clip), but it won't fit Chevy Trucks.Anyone that can shed info on this I'd appreciate it greatly. -Daty To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bradg at sandsdecker.com Tue Mar 5 14:41:56 2002 From: bradg at sandsdecker.com (Brad Gochenour) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: FW: 400 heads Message-ID: Hi, First a little intro. My name is Brad and I have been a member of MML for about 3 months now. I have a '71 Scamp /6 that I have done nothing with for the past 3 years. My current daily driver is a '01 Quad Cab Dakota v6 and my wife drives a '97 Stratus for the time being. We are just getting into the muscle car rebuilding game. I bought a '78 400 this past weekend. My question is that I found a company trademark on the heads and was wondering if anybody could tell me the company? It has a 'D' on one line and 'CO' on the line below it and in between the 'CO' starts a 'P' that is as tall as both line of text (d & co). Seems it would say "DP Co." Thanks Brad G. '01 Dakota QC '97 Stratus '78 400 4bbl '71 Scamp /6 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Tue Mar 5 15:00:10 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: FW: please forward message Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B28B1@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> Frank asked me to forward this to the list. PLEASE respond to him directly as he is currently "MML Challenged" "smokin" Joe -----Original Message----- From: Borris, Frank [mailto:Frank.Borris@nhtsa.dot.gov] Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 3:52 PM To: jborg@exchange.ml.com Subject: please forward message I am not able to post to the list. Can you forward this for me? From: Frank Borris (frank.borris@nhtsa.dot.gov) To: mml@ChE2.tamu.edu Date: 3/5/02 2:32PM Subject: 340 block needed Does anyone have a rebuildable 340 in the DC, MD, PA,VA area. If it will clea n up with a 0.030" over bore, it will work for me. Frank S. Borris Safety Defects Investigator NHTSA Washington, DC To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From j.grosso at ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 5 16:04:43 2002 From: j.grosso at ix.netcom.com (James Grosso) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: 400 heads Message-ID: <002301c1c491$c5401da0$05000006@grossoix.netcom.com> What is the part number on the heads? Most likely the heads are the original stock ones. I'm not sure about the letters stamped in the heads, could be Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler? or maybe DC for Direct Connection (the predecessor to Mopar Performance Parts.) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad Gochenour" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 1:41 PM Subject: FW: 400 heads > Hi, > > First a little intro. My name is Brad and I have been a member of MML for > about 3 months now. I have a '71 Scamp /6 that I have done nothing with for > the past 3 years. My current daily driver is a '01 Quad Cab Dakota v6 and my > wife drives a '97 Stratus for the time being. We are just getting into the > muscle car rebuilding game. > > I bought a '78 400 this past weekend. My question is that I found a company > trademark on the heads and was wondering if anybody could tell me the > company? It has a 'D' on one line and 'CO' on the line below it and in > between the 'CO' starts a 'P' that is as tall as both line of text (d & co). > Seems it would say "DP Co." > > Thanks > Brad G. > '01 Dakota QC > '97 Stratus > '78 400 4bbl > '71 Scamp /6 > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From T3lightbronze at aol.com Tue Mar 5 16:36:57 2002 From: T3lightbronze at aol.com (T3lightbronze@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: FW: 400 heads Message-ID: <97.240c6b66.29b6a289@aol.com> Brad G writes: >>It has a 'D' on one line and 'CO' on the line below it and in between the 'CO' starts a 'P' that is as tall as both line of text (d & co). Seems it would say "DP Co." Hi Brad, and welcome to the MML. That sounds like the old corporate casting mark that was present on just about anything made out of cast iron. Look closely, I'll bet the "o" is closer to a "D". The mark stands for "Dodge Plymouth Chrysler DeSoto"; which dates back to the days when there was four separate divisons in the corporation. As fas as an actual i.d. for the heads themselves, that's usually done by a seven digit casting #, which usually gets abbreviated to the last 3#, such as 906 for the 1968 to 1970 383 and 440 heads common to the muscle cars we all love. Hope this helps! Morgan Billingslea '69 Charger '72 Demon '71 Fury Custom Suburban 383-9passenger. '85 CJ-7 (Stephanie's Mopar-for now) '92 Shadow (Steph's other Mopar) Bel Air MD To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From blbrizzi1 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 5 16:45:26 2002 From: blbrizzi1 at yahoo.com (Brent Brizzi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <20020305224526.44505.qmail@web10503.mail.yahoo.com> I haven't had a chance to check out the fender tags yet, as it's over at a friends house. I wouldn't think that the interior would have been condusive to being a police vehicle, but then again, I didn't take to riding in police vehicles. :-) The one thing I do have is the VIN, from some of the paperwork on the car. I don't know if it will shed any light on it or not, but if anyone wants to give it a shot, here it is: RH41H8A143303 Brent --- "Giant A. Aryani" wrote: > > I just checked one of the books I have. '78 Fury > copcars did not come with > a 4bbl 318 engine. The only 318 in a copcar was the > 2bbl version. > Let us know what engine code is on the fender tag. > It should start with an > E and have two numeric digits following it. I'm > assuming your Fury is > either not a copcar or its carburetor or engine was > replaced along the > way. > > Have a nice day > --------------- > Giant > > > > Does it say A38 anywhere on the fender tag? > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From T3lightbronze at aol.com Tue Mar 5 16:36:57 2002 From: T3lightbronze at aol.com (T3lightbronze@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: FW: 400 heads Message-ID: <97.240c6b66.29b6a289@aol.com> Brad G writes: >>It has a 'D' on one line and 'CO' on the line below it and in between the 'CO' starts a 'P' that is as tall as both line of text (d & co). Seems it would say "DP Co." Hi Brad, and welcome to the MML. That sounds like the old corporate casting mark that was present on just about anything made out of cast iron. Look closely, I'll bet the "o" is closer to a "D". The mark stands for "Dodge Plymouth Chrysler DeSoto"; which dates back to the days when there was four separate divisons in the corporation. As fas as an actual i.d. for the heads themselves, that's usually done by a seven digit casting #, which usually gets abbreviated to the last 3#, such as 906 for the 1968 to 1970 383 and 440 heads common to the muscle cars we all love. Hope this helps! Morgan Billingslea '69 Charger '72 Demon '71 Fury Custom Suburban 383-9passenger. '85 CJ-7 (Stephanie's Mopar-for now) '92 Shadow (Steph's other Mopar) Bel Air MD To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From blbrizzi1 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 5 16:45:26 2002 From: blbrizzi1 at yahoo.com (Brent Brizzi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <20020305224526.44505.qmail@web10503.mail.yahoo.com> I haven't had a chance to check out the fender tags yet, as it's over at a friends house. I wouldn't think that the interior would have been condusive to being a police vehicle, but then again, I didn't take to riding in police vehicles. :-) The one thing I do have is the VIN, from some of the paperwork on the car. I don't know if it will shed any light on it or not, but if anyone wants to give it a shot, here it is: RH41H8A143303 Brent --- "Giant A. Aryani" wrote: > > I just checked one of the books I have. '78 Fury > copcars did not come with > a 4bbl 318 engine. The only 318 in a copcar was the > 2bbl version. > Let us know what engine code is on the fender tag. > It should start with an > E and have two numeric digits following it. I'm > assuming your Fury is > either not a copcar or its carburetor or engine was > replaced along the > way. > > Have a nice day > --------------- > Giant > > > > Does it say A38 anywhere on the fender tag? > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ldealba at email.msn.com Tue Mar 5 17:09:47 2002 From: ldealba at email.msn.com (Larry De Alba) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: High Gloss Engine Paint Message-ID: <000e01c1c49b$14a64320$f9edfea9@e5dy6> Hi All, At Spring Fling last year I saw a Blue 69 SuperBee with an EXTREMELY high gloss engine paint. Never could catch up with the owner to find out the vendor or manufacturer. I'm rebuilding and detailing the 440 in my 300 and would like to do something similar for paint finish to the motor and heads in the original Chrysler turquoise. Has anybody seen this type of finish (on engines), or know of a Vendor that sells it? It also occurred to me that this just could have been several coats of High Temp clear coat applied after paint. Any feedback on the Hirsch or POR15 engine paint products is appreciated as well. Don't want anything that'll flake off either. Thanks. Larry De Alba 69- SuperBee (BEEWARE) 70- Chrysler 300 Vert. (CRUZN3C) 98- Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4X4 (98MOPAR) 00- Dodge Durango SLT+ 4X4 (DE ALBA) ---------- ---------- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From harling at cadence.com Tue Mar 5 20:06:34 2002 From: harling at cadence.com (Dan Harling) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: Idle speed adjustment on 2.5L w/TBI Message-ID: <0D3972F302D58440BD35BF14DC48AF5604F5EB@exmbx01chel.global.cadence.com> Sorry, one more 2.5L question. Hot or cold, my car idles anywhere from 2K - 3K RPM, and utting it in Drive on dry pavement without applying the brakes will chirp the tires. I cannot figure out how to adjust it downward. According to the FSM, the idle speed on TBI cars is controlled by the computer (based on the throttle position sensor, vehicle speed sensor etc.), and cannot be adjusted with a set-screw like the carbureted version. So...what is the best way to get the idle speed under control? Is there a sensor or component that typically causes high idle speed when it starts to go bad? Or should I just file down the throttle plate stop, tap it and install a set-screw? :-) Old habits die hard... _________________________________________________________________________ Daniel A. Harling <>< Member of Consulting Staff Cadence Design Systems http://www.cadence.com Chelmsford, MA To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Tue Mar 5 21:00:46 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: quick Edelbrock Performer question Message-ID: My Edelbrock Performer (440) intake arrived today. I do not have EGR, so I suspect I will be using the block-offs supplied with it to block those threaded ports. (I scanned through the directions, but they were real generic, and I didn't see a mention of what to block off.) I got 2 plugs, and there appears to be 3 holes to plug. Two at the side of the manifold, and one is in a runner. I guess I'll just have to go pick up an extra plug or something? There are also two small holes in the bottom of the intake, I assume these are for the EGR. Is there any potential problem with fuel going down these holes and puddling under there in that heat crossover? Another quick question - the intake gaskets I got included a new valley pan. I held it up to the bottom of the Performer, and it didn't quite seem to fit. It was the recommended gasket set though. Maybe this will sort itself out during the actual install, but I just wanted to ask before I got too far into the project. :-) I will probably move to the Performer RPM sometime in the future, but I have to use the Performer for now due to lack of hood clearance, and its a much better match for my engine than the Torker currently installed. (Why did Edelbrock name their single plane, high RPM "race" manifold the "Torker"?) Oh well... :-) Oh, and just a note to anyone considering one of these intakes - there is a note somewhere (it was either Summit's web site or Edelbrock's) saying that mounting a Holley style carb on the TQ pad, which the Performer has, can cause a vacuum leak, and they list a part number which is an adapter and a gasket to prevent this. I added one to my order, and was slightly annoyed when I discovered that the Performer already includes one. :-( (No mention of this on either site...) At least it was only $5... -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kchamp at nrtco.net Tue Mar 5 21:30:50 2002 From: kchamp at nrtco.net (Kevin Champ) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: Cam break-in tips--Thanks Message-ID: <3C858D6A.681A6410@nrtco.net> Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who responded with information on the subject. Between the cam assembly lube and priming the oil system with the drill before startup, I think the valve train was well lubed. The only kink was that it got pretty hot because of an air lock in the block (picture great quantities of glycol/water shooting into the air from the open rad cap when if finally started flowing). Here's hoping that it didn't warp anything. Thanks again, Kevin To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Tue Mar 5 22:10:05 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: pertonix Message-ID: George: your email bounced so I answered to thee MML. got mine for a 440 from Sumitt Racing From: "Penick" To: Subject: Pertronix ignition.... Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:18:14 -0500 Thank you and may I inquire about where the best place to buy one of these is? I have used the late model distributors/orange boxes on the performance cars, but this Dart doesnt need that. I was hoping a stronger spark that is more reliable may ease starting and even help the MPG a very small bit. George _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From martyb at dnai.com Tue Mar 5 22:11:08 2002 From: martyb at dnai.com (Marty Bose) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: Not necessarily true with all insurance companies. We have Allstate, and when my 92 Civic was rearended into oblivion I was prepared to fight. Imagine my surprise when they brought me fair market actual sales price analysis of California sales for Civic Si's and offered me $5K for a car with 176K miles on it! I sold my mags and shocks for an additional 1500 before I turned it hulk in, so I got $6500 for it. Not bad! OMC: The 47 is getting real close to being a car again. Oh! Oh! Oh! Marty >I have gone throught this with a 84 Celica. Perfect rust free condition and >written off by the insurance company. They wanted to give me $300. for it. I >had to get it appraised after the accident to get a value for the car.. They >upped the value the $3000. I promptly settled for $2700 which included >getting the car back. > >The story here is that if you think that the car is worth alot more, then >you need to prove it to the insurance company. Otherwise it is like saying >you also had a Picasso on the roof. -- Marty Bose San Leandro, CA (across the bay from San Francisco) 1947 Plymouth P15 Special Deluxe Business Coupe (weekend driver, running a hot rod flathead by this ....April?) 2002 PT Cruiser " Bunny Jr." (wife's car) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Wed Mar 6 00:31:09 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:26 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <3C85B7AD.457F60B6@sedona.net> Could be a 360 4 bbl. I spent some time with an agency that had several of those. Other things to look for are: certified 140 mph speedo; little grounding straps from the hood and trunk lid to the body near the hinges; spotlights or holes for spotlights in the front pillars; sway bars are an indication (but some of the civilian cars had sway bars); the torsion bars could be special cop pieces; holes for mounting radio equipment in the trunk / under the dash; possibly one key for trunk and doors; holes in dash for mic clips; sometimes a lockout so the trans can't be shifted into the 1 position; holes in roof for emergency lights; holes in rear package shelf for emergency lights; extra dome lights; little dog dish hub caps; blue silicone upper radiator hose and heater hoses... anyway that's all I can think of for now. I'm sure there was some kind of extra bracing done to the frame and chassis. If so I wouldn't know where though. Hope this helps, Karl M. Brent Brizzi wrote: > I recently bought a 78 Fury, that either needs the > engine worked on or replaced. My question is, I may > have a possible cop car, and am trying to find out. > It has the 318 with a four barrel thermoquad? At > least I think that's what my friend said. He said > that's very unusual for this car to have a four > barrel. Also, it has heavy duty sway bars. Is there > any other way to determine if it was a former cop car? > I have another 318 from a donor car, would the > internal parts be the same from both 318's. I guess > what I'm trying to say is, would it be a good idea to > rebuild the 318 engine that came with the car, as it > may be a cop car? Or, should I just put in the engine > that I have from my donor car, and swap out the > manifold and four barrel? Thanks for any help. > > Brent > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball > http://sports.yahoo.com > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wwatson at direct.ca Wed Mar 6 00:35:27 2002 From: wwatson at direct.ca (Bill Watson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: 400 heads Message-ID: <02a001c1c4da$7e6d6e20$1b8c42d8@bill> If you look very closely, you will see the bottom row is really a "C" and "D". The top row is "D" (Dodge), "P" (Plymouth) with "C" (Chrysler) and "D" (DeSoto) on the bottom. That is the symbol Chrysler used on its parts before adopting the pentastar in the 1960's. Can you find a casting number on those heads? If they have the "D P C D" symbol on them, they could from a 1960's (or earlier) 383, or 361. Bill Vancouver, BC > Hi, > > First a little intro. My name is Brad and I have been a member of MML for > about 3 months now. I have a '71 Scamp /6 that I have done nothing with for > the past 3 years. My current daily driver is a '01 Quad Cab Dakota v6 and my > wife drives a '97 Stratus for the time being. We are just getting into the > muscle car rebuilding game. > > I bought a '78 400 this past weekend. My question is that I found a company > trademark on the heads and was wondering if anybody could tell me the > company? It has a 'D' on one line and 'CO' on the line below it and in > between the 'CO' starts a 'P' that is as tall as both line of text (d & co). > Seems it would say "DP Co." > > Thanks > Brad G. > '01 Dakota QC > '97 Stratus > '78 400 4bbl > '71 Scamp /6 > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cowboys at utdallas.edu Tue Mar 5 19:24:47 2002 From: cowboys at utdallas.edu (Giant A. Aryani) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: Brent, Based on the VIN it's not a copcar. It's rare to have a high price class copcar and again, in '78 no Mopar copcar came with the 318-4bbl. R = Fury H = High price class 41 = 4 door sedan H = 4bbl 318 8 = 1978 A = Lynch Road, MI Assembly Plant the last 6 digits represent the sequence number. Have a nice day --------------- Giant > is: RH41H8A143303 > > Brent To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudadream at yahoo.com Tue Mar 5 19:41:50 2002 From: cudadream at yahoo.com (Mark Schwartz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: When is a flywheel bad? Message-ID: <20020306014150.7089.qmail@web21201.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, My mini starter's top bolt decided to go bye-bye and then change the angle on the starter teeth. This did some minor chewing on my steel flywheel. I'm replacing the starter, but how do I know if I need to pull the flywheel and get it fixed? Is it just if it turns when the starter is engaged, it's okay or is it based upon how bad the teeth chewing is? Can provide a digital pic if needed in the next day or so. thanks tomcat hemi 4 speed p.s. the mini starter will fit flush if I grind away part of the bracket that hold the selnoid (I know I misspelled this), in. Can I do that as long as it's still secure to the starter. It currently won't clear the exhaust manifold to allow a flush mount to the flywheel and 3 piece scattershield. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Lilhigs at aol.com Wed Mar 6 00:44:11 2002 From: Lilhigs at aol.com (Lilhigs@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Unlocking Message-ID: <46.23835c7e.29b714bb@aol.com> Although I have been around only a scant 32 years, I have run up against , what I think, is a fair share of these stuck engines. Two years ago, I happened across a product called "PD-Rust Blaster". I really cannot say enough about this stuff !!!!!! I swear, that I in no way am related in any way to this company. I really do LOVE this stuff. I have sprayed this on stuck torsion adjusters and within ten minutes , turned them freeley......loosened stuck piston rings in an engine which sat for 9 years !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I really recomend this stuff, it comes in an araesol can such as WD-40. Steve NYC To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From smoker at terraworld.net Tue Mar 5 18:28:49 2002 From: smoker at terraworld.net (MoPar Jamie Kittrell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: My new toy Message-ID: <005001c1c4a5$e51e4a20$822bfe40@oemcomputer> Well, sort of a new toy anyway. I found a '74 Newport (CL41) that the local shop owner hauled in. Apparantly, it had been tagged for sitting. Anyway, no title. Its rusted to H*ll, but its got a lot of good stuff that I can use on my other two C-Bodys ('74 Monaco and '75 Gran Fury): 400-2v, runs (fired it today with my remote ign) but knocks bad. 727 (was in gear when I fired it, held okay) PS/PB/AC Tilt/telescoping wheel Rear Window defogger Good dash pad and windshield. Electric trunk release I'm gonna haul it home this weekend and see what I can do. In addition to the above, theres lots more good stuf that I'm gonna use, too numerous to mention. Then, I'm going to give the body to the local 'yard, as its pretty well rusted (Trunk extensions, what Trunk extensions!) - MoPar Jamie K. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mac9 at po.cwru.edu Tue Mar 5 20:01:57 2002 From: mac9 at po.cwru.edu (Matt Cramer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Chrysler Lebaron drag car? Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20020305210157.035283a0@pop.cwru.edu> At 09:40 PM 3/4/2002 -0500, Penick wrote: >I recently saw someones sig listing a Lebaron Drag car project. I would like >to hear more about that. Was thinking that the frontal area of these is >quite a bit more air flow friendly that most of the older Mopar slab side >fronts, probably even lighter after all the safety stuff is removed. I would >assume that the front/rear chassis would have to be tied, but was not sure >if that would be enough to handle small block power since they were equipped >with the v6. That combo might make for a neat street machine? Comments? >Ideas? George in Tallahassee: '71 Cuda, '68 Dart GT, '97 Sebring Vert Well, there's two likely forms a LeBaron drag car might take (three if you count the F-body based J-bodies, but we'll stick to the ones that left the factory as FWD models). One is basically to copy the Pro Stock cars and use the Mopar Performance smallblock swap kit. The MP Chassis manual gives some, but not all, of the details of this swap. Since you're basically re-engineering the whole chassis and converting a front-driver to rear wheel drive, you might as well use subframe connectors while you're at it. The other option is to work with the stock four cylinder. The turbocharged versions of the 2.2 / 2.5 can be built to make huge amounts of power for such a little motor. 250 hp isn't unreasonable for the street, and I've heard of some of them making over 400 hp, such as the one propelling Gary Donovan's gutted K-car into the 10's. These cars seem to respond best to breathing enhancements combined with more boost and do not need much in the way of internal work. Word is finally starting to get around again that the turbocharged K-car based Mopars can be fast, although lots of people aren't going to know what hit them with such a car. I haven't seen much interest in working with the 3.0 V6 some LeBarons come with. I'll bet the newer 200 hp version from a Stratus / Sebring / Eclipse will drop in, and you may be able to get the DOHC or even turbo versions from the Stealth / 3000GT to work in there. But I have never seen or heard of this actually being done. Any takers? Matt Cramer '66 Dart Super Six http://drive.to/slantsix To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From lrherman at optonline.net Tue Mar 5 19:53:12 2002 From: lrherman at optonline.net (Lee Herman) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Headliner question Message-ID: <3C857688.C9C6C0DB@optonline.net> Hello all, Now that I've received the FSM for the '87 Diplomat from Ma MOPAR, I'm getting ready to get to work. I've got to fix the moonroof, so I'll be removing the drooping headliner to get to it. I'd like to fix the headliner since it's going to be out of the car anyway. The fabric is in very good shape, but it has dropped (drooped?) as is typical. I'd like to re-glue it. Does anyone on the list have experience with the process? What kind of glue should be used?? Any particular technique?? I can't imagine how I can re-glue without the glue soaking through the fabric. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -- Lee Herman lrherman@optonline.net - AOL IM ID "dart69dude" 1969 Dodge Dart GT Convertible - 340-4bbl/A727 1987 Dodge Diplomat SE - Loaded! 1993 Toyota Camry V6 XLE, 1999 Toyota Camry Solara SLE V6 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2g95c at verizon.net Tue Mar 5 18:20:08 2002 From: vze2g95c at verizon.net (Tom Showers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Chrysler Lebaron drag car? Message-ID: <001601c1c4a4$acbe0720$49742c81@ed> > I recently saw someones sig listing a Lebaron Drag car project. I would like > to hear more about that. Was thinking that the frontal area of these is > quite a bit more air flow friendly that most of the older Mopar slab side > fronts, probably even lighter after all the safety stuff is removed. I would > assume that the front/rear chassis would have to be tied, but was not sure > if that would be enough to handle small block power since they were equipped > with the v6. That combo might make for a neat street machine? Comments? > Ideas? That's part of my sig. I got one of the last of the GT kits when they were discontinued by Mopar Performance about four years ago. It basically replaces the stock K-frame with a modified one that allows the rack to be moved up front, a sling type engine mounting hoop, a trans crossmember for the middle of the car, and some through bolts for the hubs, so you can use the existing brakes, struts and knuckles. Of course, you have to back-half the car yourself (BTDT). These kits were not that popular, and rule changes allowing tube chassis' in most classes made them uncompetitive weightwise. I got it because I have been contemplating a smaller and lighter race car (lighter means quicker), the boss agreed to finance some of it if I agree to letter it with company colors, and it makes good use of the 30X48 garage that is 'almost' finished. I want to keep it stock appearing inside and out, except for the obvious engine change and rear axle drive. I don't really care if it's competitive or not, but it sure will be FUN. The donor car is in perfect condition, minus a missing engine. I took ownership for storage fees....... Currently, emissions laws make this sort of thing illegal in most areas, but dealer plates come in handy........ Tom Showers Gold Certified Chrysler Technician Sawyer Motors Saugerties, NY 70 Roadrunner 500 inch Wedge 31 Plymouth 2DR sedan rod project 89 Lebaron drag car project To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From harling at cadence.com Tue Mar 5 19:58:17 2002 From: harling at cadence.com (Dan Harling) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Replace 2.5L NA with 2.5L turbo Message-ID: <0D3972F302D58440BD35BF14DC48AF5604F5EA@exmbx01chel.global.cadence.com> The idea of replacing my '87 LeBaron's 2.5L engine with a 2.5L turbo has gotten stuck in my head. Assuming I found a donor car (e.g., an '89 LeBaron), is there anything I would need to take other than: o engine & transmission o engine compartment wiring harness o computer _________________________________________________________________________ Daniel A. Harling <>< Member of Consulting Staff Cadence Design Systems http://www.cadence.com Chelmsford, MA To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net Tue Mar 5 23:50:10 2002 From: bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net (Bryan Rupp) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Pics of my Dodge big rig Message-ID: <3C85AE12.3921CD3A@acsalaska.net> Dan Harling wrote: > > From: Bryan Rupp [mailto:bryan.rupp@acsalaska.net] > > Here's the url to my web page with pictures of the Dodge C800 > > that I bought last October... > > http://www.acsalaska.net/~bryan.rupp/Dodge_C800.html > > > > I also have some pics of some 1/35th scale WWII Dodge trucks > > models at: > > http://www.acsalaska.net/~bryan.rupp/models.html > > So your hobbies include 1:35 scale trucks and 2:1 scale trucks... That's so when I start to lose the last bit of my sanity from working with all those small parts on the models I have a LARGE scale project to switch over to with much bigger parts. :-) A lot easier on the eyes too. Bryan To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Lilhigs at AOL.COM Tue Mar 5 23:57:00 2002 From: Lilhigs at AOL.COM (Lilhigs@AOL.COM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: torque strap Message-ID: <15a.9f099f1.29b709ac@aol.com> Hey Dave, from the first time I really launched my '69 Charger ,with the 440 in it, I realized it needed to be strapped down! I looked at the mount itself and wound up going with the usual chain link from the engine side motor mount bolt to the chassis. When I later installed a screaming small block in my current '68 Cuda I realized that a short lenth of the same chain wrapped tightly around the motor mount accomplish the same affect, with much less visibility..... Steve Nyc '68 Cuda '72 Scamp To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mike4karen at socket.net Tue Mar 5 23:46:34 2002 From: mike4karen at socket.net (Mike and Karen Schrader) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: ISCA in St Louis Message-ID: <00c001c1c4d2$492c49a0$0e266ad8@computer> Hey I'm getting geared up to go up to St. Louis for the Isca car show. I was wondering if anyone has heard anything about any celebrities being there if so who. My wife and I are going with my best friend and taking his 70 Cuda Drag car. If anyone is coming it is an orange Cuda with black hood and scoop. Again if anyone knows who will be there signing autographs I would appreciate a heads up. Mike & Karen Schrader 573-893-6582 Jefferson City, MO 1969 Dodge Charger - #'s Matching **** 1969 Plymouth RoadRunner 1993 Chrysler Concorde **** 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT X-Cab (For Sale) 1999 Dodge ram 3500 SLT Quad cab www.geocities.com/mike4karen To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From blbrizzi1 at YAHOO.COM Wed Mar 6 00:17:39 2002 From: blbrizzi1 at YAHOO.COM (Brent Brizzi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <20020306061739.28207.qmail@web10501.mail.yahoo.com> Thanks go to you, and everyone else who responded. I appreciate the time, and effort that was put into helping answer my questions. On a related note, I just got a book today on "How To Rebuild Small Block Mopars", I had to wait a week for it, as they don't keep it in stock. Hopefully that can help me answer any more questions I may have. Brent 78 Fury (donor car) 78 Fury (work in progress) 00 Neon --- "Giant A. Aryani" wrote: > > Brent, > > Based on the VIN it's not a copcar. > It's rare to have a high price class copcar and > again, in '78 no Mopar > copcar came with the 318-4bbl. > > R = Fury > H = High price class > 41 = 4 door sedan > H = 4bbl 318 > 8 = 1978 > A = Lynch Road, MI Assembly Plant > > the last 6 digits represent the sequence number. > > Have a nice day > --------------- > Giant > > > > is: RH41H8A143303 > > > > Brent > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Wed Mar 6 00:00:20 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car Message-ID: <3C85B074.B2DFFD46@sedona.net> Peter, I was a reserve with a sheriff's dept in CA in 78 - 79 and we had several of those cars (well actually the Dodge Monaco version). They were pretty lame. They'd launch ok from a stop but had no horsepower to gain speed. The compression was a meager 8.2:1 in the last years and combined with the turd cam and the lean burn they made lots of noise with the secondaries open but little conversion of fuel to speed. Given a long run they'd get to the mid 120 mph mark. But even with the low compression a good cam and getting rid of the lean burn can help make them a decent engine. We also had some of them in the 77 - 78 flavors with the 360. Those would top out about 90 with a 3 mile or so run. Peter Engel wrote: > Others have indicated what you need to do to verify that the car was > built as a police car and i agree. The data plate info is key. > > The yard I worked in bought a genuine 78 cop car in the early 80s. It > was a 440 car and had been part of a high speed chase. The cop car > driver had pulled some kind of "Dukes of Hazzard" stunt. Except that in > real life the car didn't get airborne and then land to drive away just > fine. The front bumper was all bent and scraped up on the bottom and > the car was kinked in half. Big clumps of soil were jammed up inside > the rear bumper. It was funny to see it parked on a flat parking lot > because the rockers almost touched the ground around the middle of the > car. I think we paid $400 for the car at auction and it had 2X,000 > miles. It did run. > > The car sat around for several years because the yard owner wanted too > much for the "police special" 440. I pulled the certified speedo and > other dash gauges -- I may still have them! > > Well one day a guy with a brown Dodge "B" party van comes in and gets > all excited about the "police special" 440. He wants to put it in his > van. I was skeptical. > > But he did it! Somehow. He torched the front crossmember to make room > for the oilpan and did some mount modifications too. I remember that > the engine didn't sit right (level and straight). Unfortunately he also > scrapped the Lean Burn spark control computer and replaced the dual > pickup distributor with a point-type setup. > > Can you say "big brown turd?" I don't know if it was the Lean Burn cam > grind or what but that thing ran like a slant 6. It started just fine > and idled great but made no power. He came back a few times and > complained about the engine being junk but that wasn't the case. Must > have been the modifications. > > Pete in PA -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wwatson at direct.ca Wed Mar 6 03:08:28 2002 From: wwatson at direct.ca (Bill Watson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car ??? Message-ID: <07a801c1c4fd$3e5df700$1b8c42d8@bill> Brent, The VIN decodes as : R - Plymouth Fury H - Salon 4 - 4-door 1 - Sedan H - 318-cid V8, 4-bbl carb 8 - 1978 A - Lynch Road assembly plant 143303 - 43,303rd 1978 car off line line (October, 1977). Lynch Road built 87,579 Fury and 54,899 Monaco cars, for a total of 142,478 cars (100001 to 242478). The car was probably not a cop car as it was the top of the line sedan. Plymouth built 14,964 Salon 4-door sedans, plus 33,649 base sedans (the model police and taxi versions were usually based on). Bill Vancouver, BC > I haven't had a chance to check out the fender tags > yet, as it's over at a friends house. I wouldn't > think that the interior would have been condusive to > being a police vehicle, but then again, I didn't take > to riding in police vehicles. :-) The one thing I do > have is the VIN, from some of the paperwork on the > car. I don't know if it will shed any light on it or > not, but if anyone wants to give it a shot, here it > is: RH41H8A143303 > > Brent > > > --- "Giant A. Aryani" wrote: > > > > I just checked one of the books I have. '78 Fury > > copcars did not come with > > a 4bbl 318 engine. The only 318 in a copcar was the > > 2bbl version. > > Let us know what engine code is on the fender tag. > > It should start with an > > E and have two numeric digits following it. I'm > > assuming your Fury is > > either not a copcar or its carburetor or engine was > > replaced along the > > way. > > > > Have a nice day > > --------------- > > Giant > > > > > > > Does it say A38 anywhere on the fender tag? > > > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Lilhigs at aol.com Tue Mar 5 23:50:07 2002 From: Lilhigs at aol.com (Lilhigs@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Engine degreaser....cont. Message-ID: <51.1a1e6057.29b7080f@aol.com> Has anyone ever tried "Purple Power" ?? This stuff really cuts through the grease on anything. I first came across it about ten years ago in South Carolina at a local swap meet, for $8 a 5 gallon bucket. It said on the label "dilute 5:1 for every application" . I have since found it for sale in NY for $4 per gallon and it is still as strong as it ever was. I used it , diluted atleast 10:1 on some old layn furniture (pvc) and it turned my newly blacktopped driveway a dark brown...............ugh!!!! This stuff is great on engines though.......be carefull Steve NYC.....Long Island '68 Cuda '72 Scamp To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bob.knight at intel.com Wed Mar 6 10:24:01 2002 From: bob.knight at intel.com (Knight, Bob) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: and the Nickens replacement for Osborne is.... Message-ID: down to six people. Current IHRA champ Gene Wilson, Tony Gillig, Santo Volpe, "Tricky Rickie" Smith, Bo Nickens, and Tom Martino. See the whole article at www.nhra.com Interesting stuff. They even had Jeg Coughlin on their list... bob To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From belvedere1 at juno.com Wed Mar 6 10:55:43 2002 From: belvedere1 at juno.com (Thomas B Lawson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Mopars in movies Message-ID: <20020306.115547.-1699289.0.belvedere1@juno.com> I watched The One with Jet Li and noticed a few older Mopars in it. It seemed to use quite a few older vehicles of all kinds. I just sat with the remote control hitting the pause and slow on the dvd. My wife thinks I am a nut. Tom Lawson NJ http://www.pcpages.com/belvedere1/Max.html 66 Plymouth Satellite 73 Dodge Dart Sport belvedereI IM ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From shawn.mcclelland at cognicase.com Wed Mar 6 10:57:45 2002 From: shawn.mcclelland at cognicase.com (McClelland, Shawn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: When is a flywheel bad? Message-ID: I had this with a car. If it engages fully even with teeth wear it should be ok. I there is damage, depending on how bad of course, you can flip the ring (make note of any alignment points). Thanks in Advance -- Shawn McClelland shawn.mcclelland@cognicase.com Phone - 416-218-2182 Cell - 416-526-2917 * To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Wed Mar 6 08:08:45 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Pro Stock Ride Message-ID: <003a01c1c518$6e7605c0$0200000a@dna> Looks like Gene Wilson is gona be the new Nickens Pro Stock Dodge Neon R/T driver. He killed the competition in IHRA last year in a Cougar. If he can manually shift the gears, I think Gene will be good for NHRA and Dodge. NHRA is a whole different ball game. He will be interesting to watch. Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Wed Mar 6 11:24:43 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (daty rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Mopars in movies Message-ID: <003b01c1c533$ce87e120$7785ed0c@attbi.com> I just sat with the remote control hitting the pause and slow on the dvd. My wife thinks I am a nut. > Tom Lawson You're not a nut, that's normal MALE human behavior! -Daty In the pre-remote era: "Honey, could you flip the channels back and forth for me please while I sit here on the couch eating chips and drinking beer?".. "Oh, the antenna needs adjusting too, a little more, a little more, NOW, back!" To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From LeeD383 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 6 12:16:43 2002 From: LeeD383 at yahoo.com (Lee D.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Headliner question Message-ID: <3C865D0B.EE85BCE9@yahoo.com> Lee, I installed a new headliner in my '69 Roadrunner. I used the Weld-On adhesive that Year One sells. This ahesive was easy to use and bonded very quickly. I haven't had the car out in the sun so hopefully everything will stay attached. The glue is a yellow color and comes in a can with a brush. The old headliner that I removed was in good shape and was probably not original. It was held on well with the same yellow adhesive. You can purchase the adhesive separately from Year One. I grabbed a lot of those black binder clips to hold the material tight against the roof rail while the glue dried. It does dry quickly though so pull the material tight, brush on the glue, and clip the material to the rail. Remove the clips the next day and trim the material. Lee '69 Roadrunner 383 ------------------------------ Message Number: 6 Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 20:53:12 -0500 From: Lee Herman Subject: Headliner question Hello all, Now that I've received the FSM for the '87 Diplomat from Ma MOPAR, I'm getting ready to get to work. I've got to fix the moonroof, so I'll be removing the drooping headliner to get to it. I'd like to fix the headliner since it's going to be out of the car anyway. The fabric is in very good shape, but it has dropped (drooped?) as is typical. I'd like to re-glue it. Does anyone on the list have experience with the process? What kind of glue should be used?? Any particular technique?? I can't imagine how I can re-glue without the glue soaking through the fabric. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -- Lee Herman lrherman@optonline.net - AOL IM ID "dart69dude" 1969 Dodge Dart GT Convertible - 340-4bbl/A727 1987 Dodge Diplomat SE - Loaded! 1993 Toyota Camry V6 XLE, 1999 Toyota Camry Solara SLE V6 _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bradg at sandsdecker.com Wed Mar 6 12:31:24 2002 From: bradg at sandsdecker.com (Brad Gochenour) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: 400 HEADS Message-ID: The numbers on the heads are 2406516. The symbol I asked about did end up being DPCD, I just couldn't decipher the last 'D' at the time. I found out the heads were use from 64-67 on 361/383/413/426/300L. I don't know what the 300L is. Brad To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From lhunter at mail.win.org Wed Mar 6 12:24:23 2002 From: lhunter at mail.win.org (Larry G. Hunter, Jr.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: ISCA in St Louis Message-ID: <014501c1c53c$29f02c40$4537b8cc@org.win.org> Mike, I know one of them is Chyna the X WWF female wrestler. I forgot who the other is. I wish my car was together and down there, but working to much, and might not even get to make a lap with the digger this year. Larry To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From TClein at billard.com Wed Mar 6 12:32:33 2002 From: TClein at billard.com (Tim Clein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: edlebrock manifold Message-ID: <5B98DA5E04ADD51182A300D0B7A79C222D2D4B@WTB-MAIL> hi everyone I recently scored a edlebrock manifold for small block 318-360 no name on manifold i.e.. performer , torker etc just tm-5 does anyone know anything about this manifold it looks to be a high rpm type single plane I think it is pretty old thanks Tim To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wilkie_steven at emc.com Wed Mar 6 12:47:52 2002 From: wilkie_steven at emc.com (wilkie, steven) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: Re-Badging a Cuda tricks/trade secrets??? Message-ID: <69C8DD8179FCD41187CC0003470E019603907771@srstarr.lss.emc.com> Howdy all, I'm toying with the idea of leaving the 440 in my 383 badged Cuda and wondering how difficult it is to re-badge it? Anyone have experience in say removing the 383 numbers on the hockey stick? How is it done and will it remove any paint or will there be a darker section due to lack of sunlight and fading along with the rest of the car's paint etc? Any idea on how to remove the Cuda383 emblems on the hood without scratching the paint as well? Obviously the pie plate under the hood is the easiest but I'm starting to like having the 440 4 speed combo and if it's not too difficult, I'm thinking of making the numbers change? TIA, Wilks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Wed Mar 6 13:07:21 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:27 2004 Subject: High Gloss Engine Paint Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B28BF@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> Maybe you saw powder coat???? Joe -----Original Message----- From: Larry De Alba [mailto:ldealba@email.msn.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 6:10 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: High Gloss Engine Paint Hi All, At Spring Fling last year I saw a Blue 69 SuperBee with an EXTREMELY high gloss engine paint. Never could catch up with the owner to find out the vendor or manufacturer. I'm rebuilding and detailing the 440 in my 300 and would like to do something similar for paint finish to the motor and heads in the original Chrysler turquoise. Has anybody seen this type of finish (on engines), or know of a Vendor that sells it? It also occurred to me that this just could have been several coats of High Temp clear coat applied after paint. Any feedback on the Hirsch or POR15 engine paint products is appreciated as well. Don't want anything that'll flake off either. Thanks. Larry De Alba 69- SuperBee (BEEWARE) 70- Chrysler 300 Vert. (CRUZN3C) 98- Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4X4 (98MOPAR) 00- Dodge Durango SLT+ 4X4 (DE ALBA) ---------- ---------- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Wed Mar 6 13:10:11 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Idle speed adjustment on 2.5L w/TBI Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C7919756057FB5@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 21:06:34 -0500 From: "Dan Harling" >Sorry, one more 2.5L question. Hot or cold, my car idles anywhere = >from 2K - 3K RPM, and utting it in Drive on dry pavement without = >applying the brakes will chirp the tires. I cannot figure out how to = >adjust it downward. According to the FSM, the idle speed on TBI cars is = >controlled by the computer (based on the throttle position sensor, = >vehicle speed sensor etc.), and cannot be adjusted with a set-screw like = >the carbureted version. > >So...what is the best way to get the idle speed under control? Is there = >a sensor or component that typically causes high idle speed when it = >starts to go bad? Or should I just file down the throttle plate stop, = >tap it and install a set-screw? :-) Old habits die hard... Dan, If you are idling at 2K-3K then it's one of two things, either the throttle postion sensor (TPI) or the automatic idle speed (AIS) motor. Both are on the throttle body. TPI will be on the opposite side from the throttle levers postioned over the axis of the throttle blade. The AIS motor will be on the side of the throttle body. The quick and dirty check is to give the AIS motor a whack with a screw driver handle. Mine on my 89 turbo gets stuck every once in awhile causing either high idle or stalling. When this happens the rap is only a temporary fix. I normally take it off the throttle body and clean with carb cleaner. The AIS is a motorized valve that controls the amount of air that is allowed to bleed around the throttle blade. If it is electrically bad you should get a code but as always check the connector. If the TPI is bad you normally will get a code. The TPI is a potentiometer. One pin is connected to ground the other to power (5 volts I think) and the other is the wiper that moves with the throttle blade to give you a variable voltage output. With the key on you can probe the connector for voltage and variable voltage when you move the throttle. It should give a smooth linear change as the throttle is opened and closed. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Dyatona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http:\\www.geocities.com\dgc333 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From parkerw at city.bloomington.in.us Wed Mar 6 13:24:24 2002 From: parkerw at city.bloomington.in.us (William Parker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Unlocking Message-ID: <3C866CE8.C06BFACA@city.bloomington.in.us> Lilhigs@aol.com wrote: > > Although I have been around only a scant 32 years, I have run > up against , what I think, is a fair share of these stuck engines. > Two years ago, I happened across a product called "PD-Rust Blaster". > I really cannot say enough about this stuff !!!!!! > I swear, that I in no way am related in any way to this company. > I really do LOVE this stuff. I have sprayed this on stuck torsion adjusters > and within ten minutes , turned them freeley......loosened stuck piston > rings in an engine which sat for 9 years I will second your endorsement of Blaster. The only thing that works as well or maybe a little better is Kroil and it is only available mail-order. I've freed up a couple of stuck engines by pouring bulk Kroil into the combustion chambers, putting the spark plugs back in, and just waiting a week. I haven't seen Blaster in bulk like in gallons. Bill Parker, South Central Indiana '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '65 Imperial; '65 Barracuda \6 (Kathi's car); '68 Hemi Roadrunner '68 Barracuda Fastback 383-S; '69 Barracuda Fastback now 360 (20 y.o. son's car); '72 Cuda 340 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From santo426 at mediaone.net Wed Mar 6 13:41:45 2002 From: santo426 at mediaone.net (Sandy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: High Gloss Engine Paint Message-ID: <00dc01c1c546$f84468e0$2901a8c0@sandy> Howdy. You'd be amazed how glossy you can get spray can engine paint if you use some "car painting" techniques. I have some friends that have painted engines following, to the letter, the generic instructions on the can... you'll never get any gloss that way. The "several light coats" method may be great for corrosion protection or something but it aint squat for appearance. I have always used 2-3 light coats to get complete coverage... for starters, but then I start applying the paint with enough material to "flow out" like painting a car... other wise you end up with "semi-gloss" hemi orange. You have to feel your way through it, spraying enough to flow but not enough to run. Then again I've talked to pros that have painted engines with regular car paint products, stating that the block, pan and intake themselves don't get hot enough to actually burn the paint... I don't know about that... maybe on a car that is only driven from the trailer to the show space and back to the trailer. The only experience I've had with the "Hirsch" paint is... a buddy got some street hemi orange for his Superbirds 6 pack motor... it came out... well... I called it "street hemi peach" If the Mopar Performance spray can paint is applied right, you can get a show winning gloss that will last a long time. Later, Sandy '85 Dodge 600 'Vert, 2.2 turbo... kinda neat '70 Hemi RR-project car, B5, 4 spd, SuperTracPack ************ http://www.sandysgarage.com ************ ************* http://www.garagecams.com ************* ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry De Alba" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 6:09 PM Subject: High Gloss Engine Paint > Hi All, > > At Spring Fling last year I saw a Blue 69 SuperBee with an EXTREMELY high > gloss engine paint. Never could catch up with the owner to find out the > vendor or manufacturer. I'm rebuilding and detailing the 440 in my 300 and > would like to do something similar for paint finish to the motor and heads > in the original Chrysler turquoise. Has anybody seen this type of finish (on > engines), or know of a Vendor that sells it? It also occurred to me that > this just could have been several coats of High Temp clear coat applied > after paint. Any feedback on the Hirsch or POR15 engine paint products is > appreciated as well. Don't want anything that'll flake off either. Thanks. > > Larry De Alba > 69- SuperBee (BEEWARE) > 70- Chrysler 300 Vert. (CRUZN3C) > 98- Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4X4 (98MOPAR) > 00- Dodge Durango SLT+ 4X4 (DE ALBA) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From PiscesM21 at aol.com Wed Mar 6 14:28:00 2002 From: PiscesM21 at aol.com (PiscesM21@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car Message-ID: My 78 used to be slow but it never had lean burn on it. It was a CHP car. Now that it has been over hauled and went from 225hp to 405hp it runs completely differently. In fact a couple of CHP officers that saw it and drove it wanted to trade a Mustang for it. But can't give up the MOPAR. Charles in Calif. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From j_bossman at yahoo.com Wed Mar 6 09:31:08 2002 From: j_bossman at yahoo.com (JAMES BOSSMAN) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: long time, no post... but still here Message-ID: <20020306153108.19995.qmail@web13906.mail.yahoo.com> I'm still alive. Figure I'd check in. Been pretty much inactive in digest mode for the last six months or so. Spent most of the winter trying to resolve a dispute over a crappy set of gears I bought. Car spent the last two months on jacks. Just recently I broke down and got a complete section from Randy's Ring & Pinion (very nice but VERY expensive). Got the gears installed. Now I'm trying to fix a few other things (leaky oil pan, worn out idler arm). Hopefully, I'll have it all back together here in the next few days. If we get some rain to wash all the salt off the roads, I might even get it out and drive it this weeked. Hit the website and check out the "Update" section if you want to see what I've been up to all winter (shameless plug). Been a long winter. Seems even longer considering all the nice weekends we had around here and the car was on jacks. I'm REALLY looking forward to spring. James '69 Charger SE http://myweb.accessus.net/~jhbossman/DFCHOME.html __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SIXPACKDAN at aol.com Wed Mar 6 15:28:13 2002 From: SIXPACKDAN at aol.com (SIXPACKDAN@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Re-Badging a Cuda tricks/trade secrets??? Message-ID: <139.a75c5d6.29b7e3ed@aol.com> 3M makes a "grinding wheel" thats called the eraser. In reality it is just that. A big eraser on hub you can put in your drill. It works magic taking off old stickers without harming the paint. Dan, To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Wed Mar 6 15:57:17 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car Message-ID: Charles in California writes... >My 78 used to be slow but it never had lean burn on it. It was a CHP car. Now >that it has been over hauled and went from 225hp to 405hp it runs completely >differently.... Hi Charles, Wow! That sounds really good! What about smog? I lost track, but what years are now exempt from the every-other-year smog tests? This thread has got me thinking.... CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From normc at scamp.osullivan.com Wed Mar 6 16:03:39 2002 From: normc at scamp.osullivan.com (Norman Cornell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: car commercials Message-ID: <001b01c1c55a$c57e45c0$39acf3cf@normancornell> A few years ago there was an FTP site that had a bunch of old car commercials, including a bunch of Mopar commercials. I found the site again but it isn't up anymore. Does anyone still have any of the videos? I DL'd them all and save them to tape, but I got rid of the tape drive and now I can't get the videos. Thanks, Norm - Golden City, MO ----- http://scamp.osullivan.com 1982 Plymouth Voyager * 1993 Dodge Stealth SE (15.58@89) 1971 Plymouth Fury Gran Coupe 360 (paisley top and interior) 1972 Plymouth Scamp 360 (15.42@91 / TBD on nitrous) 1973 Plymouth Scamp 360 (12.27@112 / 11.53@117 on nitrous) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From TClein at billard.com Wed Mar 6 16:38:19 2002 From: TClein at billard.com (Tim Clein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: re.78 cop car Message-ID: <5B98DA5E04ADD51182A300D0B7A79C222D2D56@WTB-MAIL> all cars after 1973 must be smogged in this state ( Calif. ) 72 and older are exempt from testing although the law says you can't defeat the systems on these old cars. yeah right!!! but as any true hot rodder knows there are ways around the system as long as you don't get caught!!. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Wed Mar 6 17:03:00 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: 400 HEADS Message-ID: <3C86A024.CE32AEC2@ameritech.net> LET MA GET THIS ONE!!! Brad Gochenour wrote: > The numbers on the heads are 2406516. The symbol I asked about > did end up being DPCD, I just couldn't decipher the last 'D' at > the time. I found out the heads were use from 64-67 on > 361/383/413/426/300L. I don't know what the 300L is. > Brad THE Chrysler 300-L was the last year for the 300 letter car series. THEY started the Muscle Cars. 1955 saw the introduction of the first 300, named because you bought a car with 300hp. 1956 saw the introduction of the FIRST modern car with 1hp per cubic inch motor, the 354 hemi with 355 hp. in 57 they jumped it up to 375hp, while the best chebby offered was about 4 steps up the options list at only 283 hp. Where as the Chryslers 375hp was STANDARD. The series got heavy duty suspension, tranny, and good (for the day) brakes. During the 11 year run for the 300 Letter cars only approx 16,000 cars were produced. You can visit the 300 Clubs web site for additional information. -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy (owner and driver of a 300-C since 1970) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From TClein at billard.com Wed Mar 6 16:38:19 2002 From: TClein at billard.com (Tim Clein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: re.78 cop car Message-ID: <5B98DA5E04ADD51182A300D0B7A79C222D2D56@WTB-MAIL> all cars after 1973 must be smogged in this state ( Calif. ) 72 and older are exempt from testing although the law says you can't defeat the systems on these old cars. yeah right!!! but as any true hot rodder knows there are ways around the system as long as you don't get caught!!. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Wed Mar 6 17:03:00 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: 400 HEADS Message-ID: <3C86A024.CE32AEC2@ameritech.net> LET MA GET THIS ONE!!! Brad Gochenour wrote: > The numbers on the heads are 2406516. The symbol I asked about > did end up being DPCD, I just couldn't decipher the last 'D' at > the time. I found out the heads were use from 64-67 on > 361/383/413/426/300L. I don't know what the 300L is. > Brad THE Chrysler 300-L was the last year for the 300 letter car series. THEY started the Muscle Cars. 1955 saw the introduction of the first 300, named because you bought a car with 300hp. 1956 saw the introduction of the FIRST modern car with 1hp per cubic inch motor, the 354 hemi with 355 hp. in 57 they jumped it up to 375hp, while the best chebby offered was about 4 steps up the options list at only 283 hp. Where as the Chryslers 375hp was STANDARD. The series got heavy duty suspension, tranny, and good (for the day) brakes. During the 11 year run for the 300 Letter cars only approx 16,000 cars were produced. You can visit the 300 Clubs web site for additional information. -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy (owner and driver of a 300-C since 1970) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Wed Mar 6 17:28:47 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Pertronix Ignition Box Message-ID: <003e01c1c566$ab4beb60$7192fea9@computer> Does anyone have one of these that is in good shape that they would like to convert to cash? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Wed Mar 6 17:28:47 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Pertronix Ignition Box Message-ID: <003e01c1c566$ab4beb60$7192fea9@computer> Does anyone have one of these that is in good shape that they would like to convert to cash? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From brett.hales at attbi.com Wed Mar 6 17:20:17 2002 From: brett.hales at attbi.com (Brett Hales) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: re.78 cop car Message-ID: Actually 1973 and older do not need to be smog certified. 1974 and up needs to be re-certified every 2 years. -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu]On Behalf Of Tim Clein Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 2:38 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: re.78 cop car all cars after 1973 must be smogged in this state ( Calif. ) 72 and older are exempt from testing although the law says you can't defeat the systems on these old cars. yeah right!!! but as any true hot rodder knows there are ways around the system as long as you don't get caught!!. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rad at learn2.com Wed Mar 6 17:30:56 2002 From: rad at learn2.com (Rad Craig) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Introduction Message-ID: Hello, I'm new to the list. Haven't read all of the FAQ stuff yet but I will before I ask a bonehead question for the 23,456th time. Bought my first mopar (the intrepid doesn't count) about 2 years ago, a '70 Cuda with a 440 in it (originally a 383 car). Haven't really gotten to do anything with it. It's a rust free NM car (I'm in OK). Interior needs lots of work but body is in excellent shape, needs some trim pieces. Was supposed to have a 506hp 440 in it. The motor had a kind of 'ticking' sound like a lifter but sounded lower in the engine (wrist-pin maybe?). Anyway I've had it for 2 years, haven't been able to drive it 20 miles but that's all about to change. I pulled it into the garage last weekend, yanked the motor and am tearing it down. Either I was lied to by the seller or the shop that built the motor (Six Pac Performance in Alberqeerky, NM) lied to the people I bought it from. Got the wrong heads, one ported, one isn't, wrong bore, etc. Anyway I'm now putting together my diabolical plan to get this motor rebuilt with new valvetrain, check all the lower end, etc. to get 500-550hp out of it. Just something fun to drive around while I work on the rest of the car. Plan to build a wild motor for it in the next year or two (500-600+ci), maybe one of Indy's aluminum hemi's? Can't afford it right now, so want to have some low cost fun with this motor. 500hp will spank all the ricers and most of the street hot-rods where I live. I have been a shivy guy all my life, but mostly just an automotive enthusiast...if it's got wheels, is fast and has a loud exhaust I like it, don't care who made it. My primary project at the moment...which is getting closer to completion all the time is a '90 Chevy 454SS Pickup that has a 534ci tall-deck marine block in it. 742hp on pump gas + a 600hp NX nitrous injection setup custom plumbed into the intake. Truck has a fully custom airbag suspension designed, fabricated and installed by myself that features a 6-link rearend, will lay the frame on the ground AND raise up higher than stock. Rides like a caddy, handles like it's on rails, absolutely no body lean...and it's even got 20" Budnik Famosa billet wheels with Michellin Pilot rubber bands. I've got several hundred pics on my website (http://www.rodsbyrad.com - click on the 'Projects' link once you get there), plus the full engine and transmission specs (TH400 converted to a switch pitch 1800-4000rmp stall). Once that project is complete, I can focus full-time on the Cuda which I love and have always wanted. Also have a '95 Mustang GT with the 5.0 and 5-speed which I've only had for about 6 months and am already selling. I'd rather drive the cuda or my truck. Married to a wonderful wife for 12 years now who lets me spend way more than I should on my toys...and likes to drive them as much (if not more) than I do...it's a constant fight over who's driving what. She'll race anyone that pulls up beside her...although an opponent isn't really required :) We have an 8 year old son who is just getting started helping me, I think he's old enough now. He's a great tool chaser, knows his fractions better than said wife and since this weekend knows how to use an impact wrench and air rachet! I think that's enough for an intro, geez. Sorry it's so long. Rad... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rjnolfe at nycap.rr.com Wed Mar 6 17:45:56 2002 From: rjnolfe at nycap.rr.com (Roger) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: '49 Plymouth - with house Message-ID: <006d01c1c569$0fa9aaa0$2d581d18@nycap.rr.com> A rare opportunity for MoPar fans. House for sale in upscale community of Wyckoff, NJ. Located on approx. ? acre lot. All brick 3 bedroom ranch. Large family room with stone fireplace, Kuche Cucina kitchen with island and peninsula. Breakfast nook with bay window. Large living room/dining room. Master bath with his/her vanity's, 2 person Jacuzzi tub, walk in shower with 2 heads, separate toilet room. Walk up attic. Central air, 4 zone hot water baseboard heat with 5th zone installed for basement if wanted. All Pella windows. Full basement with its own bath & shower. 3 car garage under house. 3d bay goes one end of the house to the other.about 50 feet. Also a 20x40 detached masonry garage with its own electric sub-panel & gas line. Building has Gambrel roof with pull down staircase to attic area. Doors above open to driveway to haul up heavy loads. Attic floor rated 100 lbs square foot. Bonus: '49 Plymouth Club Coupe Special Deluxe.apart but all there. Contact me via email for further info/details To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rjnolfe at nycap.rr.com Wed Mar 6 17:45:56 2002 From: rjnolfe at nycap.rr.com (Roger) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: '49 Plymouth - with house Message-ID: <006d01c1c569$0fa9aaa0$2d581d18@nycap.rr.com> A rare opportunity for MoPar fans. House for sale in upscale community of Wyckoff, NJ. Located on approx. ? acre lot. All brick 3 bedroom ranch. Large family room with stone fireplace, Kuche Cucina kitchen with island and peninsula. Breakfast nook with bay window. Large living room/dining room. Master bath with his/her vanity's, 2 person Jacuzzi tub, walk in shower with 2 heads, separate toilet room. Walk up attic. Central air, 4 zone hot water baseboard heat with 5th zone installed for basement if wanted. All Pella windows. Full basement with its own bath & shower. 3 car garage under house. 3d bay goes one end of the house to the other.about 50 feet. Also a 20x40 detached masonry garage with its own electric sub-panel & gas line. Building has Gambrel roof with pull down staircase to attic area. Doors above open to driveway to haul up heavy loads. Attic floor rated 100 lbs square foot. Bonus: '49 Plymouth Club Coupe Special Deluxe.apart but all there. Contact me via email for further info/details To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tigers at bserv.com Wed Mar 6 18:33:02 2002 From: tigers at bserv.com (Bob Tom) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: quick Edelbrock Performer question Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020306191322.009e5700@bserv.com> Hi, Jon. At 10:00 PM 3/5/02 -0500, you wrote: > My Edelbrock Performer (440) intake arrived today. I do not >have EGR, so I suspect I will be using the block-offs supplied >with it to block those threaded ports. (I scanned through the >directions, but they were real generic, and I didn't see a >mention of what to block off.) I got 2 plugs, and there appears >to be 3 holes to plug. Two at the side of the manifold, and >one is in a runner. I guess I'll just have to go pick up an >extra plug or something? > > There are also two small holes in the bottom of the intake, >I assume these are for the EGR. Is there any potential problem >with fuel going down these holes and puddling under there in >that heat crossover? > > Another quick question - the intake gaskets I got included >a new valley pan. I held it up to the bottom of the Performer, >and it didn't quite seem to fit. It was the recommended gasket >set though. Maybe this will sort itself out during the actual >install, but I just wanted to ask before I got too far into the >project. :-) Until the experts respond, Mopar Muscle, July 1998, pp 66-71, may help some. Don't know about the 3 holes though. >--snip-- (Why did Edelbrock name their single plane, high >RPM "race" manifold the "Torker"?) Oh well... :-) What do you expect from a company whose owner is mainly a chevy guy :-) After all, your Performer is either the 3rd or 4th version with each successive version having smaller runner sizes ! Bet you a CDN dollar you'll notice a vast improvement in low end just by replacing the Torker. See you on Sat. Projected periods of rain and 50F. Bob To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From brett.hales at attbi.com Wed Mar 6 18:37:59 2002 From: brett.hales at attbi.com (Brett Hales) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: BB Heads Message-ID: Can someone please tell me what the 742 heads are off of and how they compare to the 906 and 452 castings? Thanks, Brett To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From neonneon at scecnet.net Wed Mar 6 18:46:17 2002 From: neonneon at scecnet.net (Jeff and Sheree) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: FWD replacement shifter cable bushings Message-ID: <000f01c1c571$7ec99140$4cfebfce@compaq> Hope I'm not stepping on any toes and I'll keep it short. I recently started doing a replacement shifter bushing for some of the late-model FWD cars. If you have ever found that you are missing a shifter cable bushing or have one that is really worn out, either end of the cables, and went to the dealership to buy one, you will know you can't buy them separately, no part number for them. List on the cables is over $100 FYI. These are injection molded polyurethane replacements. Mixed sets and partial sets are always available. I tried to keep these affordable at $25 shipped for a set of four and still try to cover my initial cost of building the mold in a reasonable amount of time. Link and more info is here: http://www.scecnet.net/~neonneon/boogerbushings.html Is it August and time for the Nats yet? Neon shoot-out, here I come. Jeff B#2 '95 Ply Neon ACR sedan original Nitro Yellow-green, 1-of-16 - 14.746 @ 93.95 '78 Dodge Aspen Super Coupe with RARE T-tops, 1-of-41, slower than the Neon by a full second To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From craesler at westwood.com Wed Mar 6 18:47:08 2002 From: craesler at westwood.com (Raesler, Colin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Colis and ECUs Message-ID: Does the coil and ECU "know" the difference between a /6 and a V8? I am thinking of trying some extra output coils and ECUs I have from a V8 on my /6 to see if it doesn't change the performance and am wondering if I could be creating any potential problems. Thanks colin To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Wed Mar 6 19:14:28 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Subject: Headliner question Message-ID: <014101c1c575$765964a0$a12d1342@laptop> >Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 20:53:12 -0500 >From: Lee Herman > >Now that I've received the FSM for the '87 Diplomat from Ma MOPAR, I'm >getting ready to get to work. > >I've got to fix the moonroof, so I'll be removing the drooping headliner >to get to it. I'd like to fix the headliner since it's going to be out >of the car anyway. > >The fabric is in very good shape, but it has dropped (drooped?) as is >typical. I'd like to re-glue it. Does anyone on the list have >experience with the process? What kind of glue should be used?? Any >particular technique?? I can't imagine how I can re-glue without the >glue soaking through the fabric. The foam layer has disintrigated. The only way to repair it is to remove the headliner assembly, carefully scrape all the old material off the cardboard, then glue new taffeta onto the cardboard. Some auto parts stores sell repair kits. Any automotive upholstry shop will have a large selection. I'd recommend taking the assembly to the shop and let them clean it and apply the new material. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mopar_family at hotmail.com Wed Mar 6 19:14:38 2002 From: mopar_family at hotmail.com (Mopar Family) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: 1976 Plymouth Valiant - Over Chargin Message-ID: <000001c1c575$73755780$47b80344@ph.cox.net> Hi All, I have a 1976 Plymouth Valiant and it keeps over charging and fries the battery. I have changed the alternator and regulator but it hasn't helped. Does anyone have any idea of what it could be? Scott Giller - Vice President Or Sandee Giller - Newsletter Editor Mopars Unlimited of Arizona www.moparsunlimitedofaz.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Scatpack at prodigy.net Wed Mar 6 19:22:04 2002 From: Scatpack at prodigy.net (David) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: 400 HEADS Message-ID: <003e01c1c576$7f2309a0$9087c640@pavilion> O.K.so what's the horsepower potential of the 516 heads?I know the exhaust valves are small,and they are closed chamber.How are the ports?How do they compare to 906s?......................david ----- Original Message ----- From: "paulholm" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 6:03 PM Subject: Re: 400 HEADS > LET MA GET THIS ONE!!! > > Brad Gochenour wrote: > > > The numbers on the heads are 2406516. The symbol I asked about > > did end up being DPCD, I just couldn't decipher the last 'D' at > > the time. I found out the heads were use from 64-67 on > > 361/383/413/426/300L. I don't know what the 300L is. > > > Brad> To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Wed Mar 6 20:06:09 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon Steiger) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: Powdercoating engine parts (was: High Gloss Engine Paint) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020306204443.05680bb8@dakota-truck.net> At 02:07 PM 3/6/2002 -0500, you wrote: > >From: Larry De Alba [mailto:ldealba@email.msn.com] [...] > >At Spring Fling last year I saw a Blue 69 SuperBee with an EXTREMELY high >>gloss engine paint. Never could catch up with the owner to find out the >>vendor or manufacturer. >Maybe you saw powder coat???? > >Joe That's a possibility. I have one of the "home" powdercoating setups, and recently powdercoated my "used-to-be-sort've-chrome-but-now-dull-and-rusty" air cleaner "mirror black". I didn't bother to add a coat of clear on top, but even so, I can see my reflection in it. You can do some pretty cool stuff with powder. :-) Fairly durable too. The only thing with coating the block though is you'll probably have to have it done by a pro. You might be able to do it with an infra-red light, but it'd take FOREVER! :-) I am pretty sure my 440's block won't fit into my oven. ;-) What with the upcoming upgrades (intake heads, etc.) I thought I might take the opportunity to powdercoat some more stuff under the hood, like the rusty carb brackets, etc. My current valley pan is a bit rusted; I was going to clean it up but got a new one with a set of gaskets, so I figure I'll powdercoat the top side of that one to prevent it from doing the same. Also thought about putting some clear powder on my new Edelbrock Performer intake just to protect it from the elements a bit... My question is... Where should I stop? Powder cures at 400 degrees, so it would seem wise to only coat surfaces that will see 400 degrees or less. Obviously, exhaust manifolds and headers are out :-) but what about the heads themselves? -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jsmallfi at columbus.rr.com Wed Mar 6 20:23:18 2002 From: jsmallfi at columbus.rr.com (Jarvis Smallfield) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:28 2004 Subject: '90 Lebaron VNT Problems Message-ID: <00b901c1c57f$0baead40$0200a8c0@insight.rr.com> Hi All, I could use some educated guesses from you all. I have a '90 Lebaron VNT that started having some running problems a few days ago. The symptoms: It wants to die at stop lights. The idle wavers and dips really low. The first few blocks, it's fine, but quickly gets worse after that the longer it's driven. After maybe a dozen blocks you definitely have to keep a foot on the throttle to keep it going. The trip computer registers very bad gas mileage, but we haven't run enough gas through to verify this. I replaced the Hall Effect (spark) pickup sensor as the symptoms my wife described made me think that was it and I had a good one laying around. That made no difference. I pulled the codes tonight after work and only got 55 out of it. So, no codes. There's no gas smell that I can notice. To muddy the water further, the idle on the Lebaron has never been very steady since I got it (though some TLC in other areas has improved it). I haven't gotten around to looking into it seriously. Any ideas where I should start looking? Ring any bells with anyone? My goal is to tackle this tomorrow after work when we have warm temps here. Thanks! later... Jarvis -|--- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at aol.com Wed Mar 6 20:33:50 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at aol.com (Ms68mopar1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: This sucks unlike anything has ever sucked before Message-ID: <141.a9bbb56.29b82b8e@aol.com> I was hitted several years ago by an uninsured motorist and my insurance company went after him. They paid for my car when the uninsured motorist clause and whet after the guy with they collected their money back from him , they continued to collect mine and one day this big surprise check for my deductible came in the mail. So hope this happens to you too. Ms. Mopar (Yvonne) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ecksjay at attbi.com Wed Mar 6 20:35:39 2002 From: ecksjay at attbi.com (Phil M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: 1976 Plymouth Valiant - Over Chargin Message-ID: <00e101c1c580$c543b880$3fdae60c@pnwxj> Voltage regulator maybe? Phil ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mopar Family" > Hi All, > > I have a 1976 Plymouth Valiant and it keeps over charging and fries the > battery. I have changed the alternator and regulator but it hasn't > helped. Does anyone have any idea of what it could be? > > Scott Giller - Vice President > Or > Sandee Giller - Newsletter Editor > Mopars Unlimited of Arizona > > www.moparsunlimitedofaz.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mopar at mhonline.net Wed Mar 6 21:18:04 2002 From: mopar at mhonline.net (Mhonline) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: Replace 2.5L NA with 2.5L turbo Message-ID: <006a01c1c586$b3201bc0$202617d1@hudsoncsd.org> Let me know if you decide to do this as I (my brother) has a perfect donor car for this swap. He has a 89 lebaron 2.5 turbo with bad auto tranny and front end damage which is half a-- repaired. He also has a 88 GTC with no front clip ,a locked turbo motor and a5 speed tranny with no 2 nd gear (so I was told). If I remember correctly he may still have the hi-po computer for the auto motor.Plus they both have good tires one 14's and one 15's , and I'm not far from you in Hudson NY....just a thought...Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Harling" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 8:58 PM Subject: Replace 2.5L NA with 2.5L turbo The idea of replacing my '87 LeBaron's 2.5L engine with a 2.5L turbo has gotten stuck in my head To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Tom at Autotechunlimited.com Wed Mar 6 22:12:02 2002 From: Tom at Autotechunlimited.com (Tom Hunsaker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: car commercials Message-ID: <3C86E892.709DEEC6@Autotechunlimited.com> Norman Cornell wrote: > A few years ago there was an FTP site that had a bunch of old car > commercials, including a bunch of Mopar commercials. I found the site again > but it isn't up anymore. Does anyone still have any of the videos? I DL'd > them all and save them to tape, but I got rid of the tape drive and now I > can't get the videos. I have a 2 hour video of just Mopar commercials. It covers 1965-1974. Not too bad but it gets old after about an hour! I hope to include the best ones on the MML video. It is made by Ocean Video Movies (1-732-269-1206) -- Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker Springboro, Ohio 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net Wed Mar 6 21:40:23 2002 From: bryan.rupp at acsalaska.net (Bryan Rupp) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: 1976 Plymouth Valiant - Over Chargin Message-ID: <3C86E127.B4922FAC@acsalaska.net> It could be extra resistance in the +12 volt line to the voltage regulator. This would cause the regulator to think the voltage from the battery is lower then it actually is. Or it could be the wire from the regulator to the field terminal on the alternator. If this wire is grounded to the engine it would cause the alternator to overcharge. Unplug the voltage regulator while using a voltmeter to see if the voltage from the alternator drops or stays the same. If the voltage stays high with the regulator disconnected then it could that wire. The last thing I can think of right now is to make sure the case of the voltage regulator is getting a good ground to the body. Take a wire brush around the bolt holes and if you have any star washers use them on the bolts that hold the regulator to the body. Bryan 1973 Dodge C800 Caterpillar powered Toter Mopar Family wrote: > > Hi All, > > I have a 1976 Plymouth Valiant and it keeps over charging and fries the > battery. I have changed the alternator and regulator but it hasn't > helped. Does anyone have any idea of what it could be? > > Scott Giller - Vice President > Or > Sandee Giller - Newsletter Editor > Mopars Unlimited of Arizona > > www.moparsunlimitedofaz.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Thu Mar 7 05:34:23 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: 400 HEADS Message-ID: On 03/06/2002 08:22:04 PM David wrote: > O.K.so what's the horsepower potential of the 516 heads?I know the exhaust valves are small,and they are closed chamber.How are the ports?How do they compare to 906s?......................david > David: The ports on the 516 heads are substandard. They are the reason the 383 was rated so low in horsepower until 1968 when the Roadrunner came out with the 383 with 906 heads. They do not compare at all with 906, or any head cast after the 906 for bigblocks, and that means any. The only head besides the Max Wedge head that you would want prior to the 906 is the 1967 915, with the 1.74 exhaust valves. The 516 heads are only good to about 4800 rpm. ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudalicious at att.net Thu Mar 7 07:16:27 2002 From: cudalicious at att.net (cudalicious@att.net) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: car commercials Message-ID: <20020307131627.EJZX11747.mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net@webmail.worldnet.att. net> I have an all-Mopar VHS, too. It covers the early 60s to early 70s, and is produced by Five Star Productions. I made the mistake of watching it in one sitting. I couldn't get the jingle (sing with me) "Just look what Plymouth's up to now" out of my head for weeks! If I had 2 VCRs, I'd dub it for you, Norman, but I'm afraid I can't help you there. (And the quality is already pretty grainy.) Becca > Norman Cornell wrote: > > > A few years ago there was an FTP site that had a bunch of old car > > commercials, including a bunch of Mopar commercials. I found the site again > > but it isn't up anymore. Does anyone still have any of the videos? I DL'd > > them all and save them to tape, but I got rid of the tape drive and now I > > can't get the videos. > > I have a 2 hour video of just Mopar commercials. It covers 1965-1974. Not too > bad but it gets old after about an hour! I hope to include the best ones on the > MML video. It is made by Ocean Video Movies (1-732-269-1206) > > > -- > Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker > Springboro, Ohio > 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback > 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rad at learn2.com Thu Mar 7 09:21:13 2002 From: rad at learn2.com (Rad Craig) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: FW: Powdercoating engine parts (was: High Gloss Engine Paint) Message-ID: I could be wrong, but I don't think powdercoating the block (maybe) and heads (definitely) would be a good idea. Powdercoating only takes a few hundred degrees (400?) to cure, what's to stop it from baking right back off on hot engine parts? I too would like a really nice looking motor and have considered this, but my concern is the heat. By all means, on any large piece, have a shop do it, their coat is about 4 times as thick as the home kits are. I've got a shop 40 miles from me that could powdercoat a suburban, their oven is that large. I've had lots of stuff done there and it's always first class work. I just haven't had anything done that has any heat on it...then again, I did powdercoat the engine in a Banshee and it worked great. So maybe I'm wrong afterall. Can someone please clarify and give us some guidelines on what the max heat tolerable is and what should NOT be coated. Rad... -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu]On Behalf Of Jon Steiger Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 8:06 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Powdercoating engine parts (was: High Gloss Engine Paint) At 02:07 PM 3/6/2002 -0500, you wrote: > >From: Larry De Alba [mailto:ldealba@email.msn.com] [...] > >At Spring Fling last year I saw a Blue 69 SuperBee with an EXTREMELY high > >gloss engine paint. Never could catch up with the owner to find out the > >vendor or manufacturer. >Maybe you saw powder coat???? > >Joe That's a possibility. I have one of the "home" powdercoating setups, and recently powdercoated my "used-to-be-sort've-chrome-but-now-dull-and-rusty" air cleaner "mirror black". I didn't bother to add a coat of clear on top, but even so, I can see my reflection in it. You can do some pretty cool stuff with powder. :-) Fairly durable too. The only thing with coating the block though is you'll probably have to have it done by a pro. You might be able to do it with an infra-red light, but it'd take FOREVER! :-) I am pretty sure my 440's block won't fit into my oven. ;-) What with the upcoming upgrades (intake heads, etc.) I thought I might take the opportunity to powdercoat some more stuff under the hood, like the rusty carb brackets, etc. My current valley pan is a bit rusted; I was going to clean it up but got a new one with a set of gaskets, so I figure I'll powdercoat the top side of that one to prevent it from doing the same. Also thought about putting some clear powder on my new Edelbrock Performer intake just to protect it from the elements a bit... My question is... Where should I stop? Powder cures at 400 degrees, so it would seem wise to only coat surfaces that will see 400 degrees or less. Obviously, exhaust manifolds and headers are out :-) but what about the heads themselves? -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mmm64 at pacifier.com Thu Mar 7 09:49:42 2002 From: mmm64 at pacifier.com (Melinda Marshall) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: Anyone know Tom Arend? Message-ID: <035601c1c5ef$b6f74ac0$040b2b42@mmm64> I met a guy in California twenty years ago named Tom Arend who drove a charger and had a white german shepard, anyone ever meet him or know where he may be now? He was a mechanic by trade. Hell of a nice guy. Thanks, Mindy :) 70 Challenger 318 Auto 70 'Cuda 383 4spd Pistol Grip 70 Charger R/T 440-6pk Auto (project) http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Street/6045 PNWChallengers@yahoogroups.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wcmutter at yahoo.com Thu Mar 7 17:42:57 2002 From: wcmutter at yahoo.com (Bill Mutter) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: Re-intro Message-ID: <000b01c1c631$d0e43b40$75119450@thetroll> Hi all, Its been a while since I have been active on the MML. My recent move to Germany and shortly after I arrived they dropped a month and a half school on me took up a lot of time over the last 6 months. I see alot of new names so I thought I would do a re-intro. I first joined the MML in 96 and have been active on and off since then. My current stable of mopars consists of a 71 Challenger R/T and a 71 Satellite Sebring +. I could only bring 1 car to Germany so I brought the Satellite simply because I have done major mechanical work on it and I figured it had the best chance of passing the German vehicle inspection and the least chance of breaking down. It is my daily driver and I drive it all the time except in bad weather. It is a 383 car with auto, air, buckets and of course a music master AM radio. The Challenger had to be put in storage so my brother in law picked it up and took it back to Wyoming and being a mopar fan as well he is going to continue with its restoration. It was originally a 340/4 speed car with 3.91 SG but the original engine and pumpkin are long gone. Last summer with the help of the MML I rebuilt a mild 360 for it and it runs most excellent. The last couple of years I have not been real active due to the fact that at any given time I had at least 1, and sometimes 3 part time jobs. I don't have that problem now so I hope to become much more active in the MML. Take care Bill Mutter 71 Challenger R/T 71 Satellite Sebring + _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu Thu Mar 7 12:09:22 2002 From: mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu (mike d) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: 71 challenger value Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020307100645.00af0c60@mail.sdsu.edu> Thank you all, for the feedback. I'm sure with all the data acquired something good will come of it. Mike At 07:02 PM 3/4/2002 -0600, Greg Garner wrote: >Go to www.collectorcartraderonline.com > >They have a way to show you the average value of all the 71 >challengers for sale at that time. Also you could look on hemmings >sight, and oldcartrader. There is also the NADA guides. My >suggestion for the future is to use a collector car insurance agency >like hagerty (www.hagerty.com) who will insure the car for stated >value. > > >Greg Garner >Real Time Engineering >19352 Hilton Rd. >Springdale, AR 72764 >1-479-756-1148 >1-479-871-1148 (cell) >http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com >Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu Thu Mar 7 12:08:49 2002 From: mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu (mike d) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020307100646.04a5ce60@mail.sdsu.edu> Thank you all, for the feedback. I'm sure with all the data acquired something good will come of it. Mike At 01:35 PM 3/4/2002 -0500, Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A) wrote: >This is for a regular Challenger not an RT: > >The URL is :http://www.vmrintl.com/cctm/coll_frame.htm > > > > > > > >Collector Car & Truck Market Current Value: >1971 DODGE CHALLENGER 318-230hp (8cyl-2V) AT > #5 #4 #3 >#2 #1 > 2dr Convertible 1950 4550 8350 >12600 17375 > 2dr Hardtop 675 2850 6125 >8825 11975 > >Add: >383-275hp (8cyl-2V) 10% >383-335hp (8cyl-4V) 20% >440-390hp (8cyl-3x2V) 80% >4spd manual trans 7% >Air conditioning 12% >Rallye dash 8% >SE pkg 8% > >Deduct: >225-145hp (6cyl-1V) -15% >3spd manual transmission -10% >Manual steering -5% >Column shift -5% > > >"smokin" Joe >71 340 Challenger R/T >(411HP on pump gas!) >2001 RAM Off Road >91 Harley Low Rider >borg@att.com / jborg@exchange.ml.com > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: mike d [mailto:mdimaio@mail.sdsu.edu] >Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:58 PM >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: 71 Challenger Value > > > >Please e-mail me directly. > >HELP! > >My brother has a 71 Challenger that recently was the victim of a 99 Mustang. >Don't want to bore you with all the details...The Mustang fell on top of >the Challenger -the car is now a parts car. The >windshield, frame around the windshield, and roof are crushed. > The Insurance company wants to give him $2,000 for the car. He needs >evidence that the car is worth more, since they say that "book" value is >what they will pay. > > >Background on the car: >71 originally 318, now 383 >slapstick >A/C car >rebuilt motor >magnum 500's >Rallye Hood >Needed paint and interior but the rest of the car was in good shape. >Any info he can give them would be helpful >Thanks >Mike D > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu Thu Mar 7 12:09:02 2002 From: mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu (mike d) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020307100645.04a48ea8@mail.sdsu.edu> Thank you all, for the feedback. I'm sure with all the data acquired something good will come of it. Mike At 12:45 PM 3/4/2002 -0600, Giant A. Aryani wrote: >What value did he have it insured for, if he had either agreed value or >stated value insurance? > >Also, go to www.nada.com and check for prices of classic cars. Edmunds.com >may have a similar feature. > >Sounds like they are totally low-balling him. > >Have him ask them what book they are using. > >Good luck. > >Have a nice day >--------------- >Giant > > >On Mon, 4 Mar 2002, mike d wrote: >> My brother has a 71 Challenger that recently was the victim of a 99 Mustang. >> Don't want to bore you with all the details...The Mustang fell on top of >> the Challenger -the car is now a parts car. The >> windshield, frame around the windshield, and roof are crushed. >> The Insurance company wants to give him $2,000 for the car. He needs >> evidence that the car is worth more, since they say that "book" value is >> what they will pay. >> Background on the car: >> 71 originally 318, now 383 >> slapstick >> A/C car >> rebuilt motor >> magnum 500's >> Rallye Hood >> Needed paint and interior but the rest of the car was in good shape. >> Any info he can give them would be helpful To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu Thu Mar 7 12:09:26 2002 From: mdimaio at mail.sdsu.edu (mike d) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: 71 Challenger Value Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020307100645.00ae14e0@mail.sdsu.edu> Thank you all, for the feedback. I'm sure with all the data acquired something good will come of it. Mike At 10:55 PM 3/4/2002 -0500, McClelland, Shawn wrote: >I have gone throught this with a 84 Celica. Perfect rust free condition and >written off by the insurance company. They wanted to give me $300. for it. I >had to get it appraised after the accident to get a value for the car.. They >upped the value the $3000. I promptly settled for $2700 which included >getting the car back. > >The story here is that if you think that the car is worth alot more, then >you need to prove it to the insurance company. Otherwise it is like saying >you also had a Picasso on the roof. > >Shawn McClelland >1970 AAR Cuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Thu Mar 7 13:14:53 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: Colis and ECUs Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C7919756057FC7@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 16:47:08 -0800 From: "Raesler, Colin" >Does the coil and ECU "know" the difference between a /6 and a V8? >I am thinking of trying some extra output coils and ECUs I have from a V8 on >my /6 to see if it doesn't change the performance and am wondering if I >could be creating any potential problems. Nope, the ECU only knows that it is getting a triggering signal from the pick-up in the distributor (other than the possibility of mechanical mounting issues the pick-up doesn't know or car either), it has no idea howm many cylinders there are. Also, if you already have electronic ignition in your car swapping ECU's from a v8 will not make any performance difference. The only differnce between the stock, orange, chrome and gold performance ECU's is max rpm they are capable of supporting. Coils do not know or care how many cylinders there are either. There is likely no difference between stock \6 and stock v8 coils. But coils can have different characteristics that can effect performance but again this is mostly noticable at high rpm's. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Dyatona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http:\\www.geocities.com\dgc333 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Chris.Demsky at Geac.com Thu Mar 7 13:23:00 2002 From: Chris.Demsky at Geac.com (Chris Demsky) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: 1976 Plymouth Valiant - Over Chargin Message-ID: <67E150D4D792D411A7B900D0B74D55A20663182D@atlexg02.gama.us.geac.com> Scott, I have had this very thing happen after we swapped motors in a Pickup I once had. In the end it turned out to be I had left the ground strap running from the back of the head to the firewall off. Once I hooked that back up my overcharging and frying of the battery ended and everything was back to normal. I wish my undercharging issue with my Barracuda was this simple, NOT. Chris Demsky '68 Barracuda Fastback 318/Auto SS1/Black '68 Barracuda Coupe 340/Auto AA1/Black '68 Barracuda Convertible 318/Auto PP1/Maroon '85 D150 SWB 318/Auto Black/Red To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From efrier at worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 7 14:52:40 2002 From: efrier at worldnet.att.net (James E. Frier) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: Alternative to powder coating Message-ID: <006101c1c61a$068c6c80$b848510c@madmax> Has anyone ever tried Por-15? I haven't but my neighbor, who is a jet mechanic, says they use Por-15 on the big jets. He used it on one of his Harley Motorcycles and he says this stuff is great! http://www.por-15.com/ You can get a free catalog by mail. I think I might use it on my intake manifold, valve covers, and oil pan. They have Mopar colors. You can brush this stuff on or you can thin it and spray it on. I figure, with the money I save on having those parts and some brackets powercoated ($500) I could buy a decent compressor and paint gun. James E. Frier 1976 Plymouth Fury 4-door Sedan Salon (Former Undercover Cop Car for the City of Pacifica, CA) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From smoseley at ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 7 15:09:41 2002 From: smoseley at ix.netcom.com (Shane Moseley) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: [Fwd: DML: EMERGENCY!!!at NASCAR.COM] Message-ID: <3C87D715.90305FAA@ix.netcom.com> Need everyones help to stop this madness!! -------- Original Message -------- Subject: DML: EMERGENCY!!!at NASCAR.COM Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 14:41:17 -0800 From: George S Willhite Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net I quote: "After 3 races should Chevrolet be given a rules concession?". Please even if you don't like Nascar, go to the website: Nascar.com and vote NO! Your vote counts and we only need 15,000 plus. Now the shoes on a different foot and I intend to fight like H*LL, HELP! George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.unipissing.ca Thu Mar 7 15:46:03 2002 From: andre at dns3.unipissing.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: '90 Lebaron VNT Problems Message-ID: <3C87DF9B.1893682E@dns3.unipissing.ca> Jarvis Smallfield wrote: > > Hi All, > > It wants to die at stop lights. The idle wavers and dips really low. The > first few blocks, it's fine, but quickly gets worse after that the longer > it's driven. After maybe a dozen blocks you definitely have to keep a foot > on the throttle to keep it going. The trip computer registers very bad gas > mileage, but we haven't run enough gas through to verify this. > AIS (Automatic Idle Speed) valve/motor thingie. Also check the wires that lead to it. On SOHC engines, at least for some years, the wires run along the back of the valve cover. And wear through the insulation. Causes all sorts of weirdness. You can try and clean out the AIS orifice, fuel Injection cleaner should do the trick. > I replaced the Hall Effect (spark) pickup sensor as the symptoms my wife > described made me think that was it and I had a good one laying around. > Good thing it was lying around :-) A badd Hall sensor usually ust shutds down the engine dead. No bad idle, no warning, just off. > That made no difference. I pulled the codes tonight after work and only got > 55 out of it. So, no codes. There's no gas smell that I can notice. > Mine didn't give any codes either when it was doing the bad idle/wants to die routine. It was the wiring along the back of the valve cover. -- Andre -- Honk if you hate noise pollution To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rad at learn2.com Thu Mar 7 15:55:40 2002 From: rad at learn2.com (Rad Craig) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: Alternative to powder coating Message-ID: I just went to check out their site. I know they have excellent products. As far as the engine coatings, they have a kit in the 'restoration' area that includes the following: POR-15?SOLVENT METAL-READY? POR-15? (Black or Silver) Engine Enamel? (color of your choice) Paint Brushes Safety face mask Latex surgical gloves Includes step by step instructions that take you through the correct of: First, our special Stripper/Solvent engine cleaner gets rid of all dirt, grease and oil. Next, use our METAL-READY? to dissolve rust and prep the metal. Now prime and rust-proof your engine with regular POR-15 ? (black or silver). And lastly, topcoat with the extra-pigment Engine Enamel color of your choice, all in one convenient kit. You won't believe the job you've done... PERMANENTLY! And get this, it's only $39.95! Sounds like a helluva deal to me! Rad... -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu]On Behalf Of James E. Frier Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 2:53 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Alternative to powder coating Has anyone ever tried Por-15? I haven't but my neighbor, who is a jet mechanic, says they use Por-15 on the big jets. He used it on one of his Harley Motorcycles and he says this stuff is great! http://www.por-15.com/ You can get a free catalog by mail. I think I might use it on my intake manifold, valve covers, and oil pan. They have Mopar colors. You can brush this stuff on or you can thin it and spray it on. I figure, with the money I save on having those parts and some brackets powercoated ($500) I could buy a decent compressor and paint gun. James E. Frier 1976 Plymouth Fury 4-door Sedan Salon (Former Undercover Cop Car for the City of Pacifica, CA) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rad at learn2.com Thu Mar 7 16:00:56 2002 From: rad at learn2.com (Rad Craig) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: This list Message-ID: Is there anyway the admin of this list can set it up so that when a message comes to you and you want to reply that the reply goes to the list instead of to the person that originally sent the message? For instance, someone asks a question on the list of where can I get the best deal on muffler bearings and prop wash? I want to reply to the list with my answer because there may be others on the list wanting to know the answer to the same question...I mean who couldn't use new muffler bearings? I know this option is in the configuration of about every list server imaginable, it just has to be changed from "reply to originator" to "reply to list/group". Rad... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From pteubel at attbi.com Thu Mar 7 16:30:44 2002 From: pteubel at attbi.com (Peter Teubel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: This list Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020307173012.00ac3478@mail.attbi.com> That is a function of your own e-mail client. Just do a "reply-to-all". At 05:00 PM 3/7/2002, Rad Craig wrote: >Is there anyway the admin of this list can set it up so that when a message >comes to you and you want to reply that the reply goes to the list instead >of to the person that originally sent the message? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Thu Mar 7 17:40:16 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (daty rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: This list Message-ID: <036501c1c631$6fbc67c0$7785ed0c@attbi.com> I do a reply all and now you will get a private and public response. Edit the to: line as needed. -Daty > Is there anyway the admin of this list can set it up so that when a message > comes to you and you want to reply that the reply goes to the list instead > of to the person that originally sent the message? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Thu Mar 7 17:58:15 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon Steiger) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: quick Edelbrock Performer question Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020307185013.049b4a90@dakota-truck.net> At 07:33 PM 3/6/2002 -0500, you wrote: >Hi, Jon. > >At 10:00 PM 3/5/02 -0500, you wrote: >> My Edelbrock Performer (440) intake arrived today. I do not >>have EGR, so I suspect I will be using the block-offs supplied >>with it to block those threaded ports. (I scanned through the >>directions, but they were real generic, and I didn't see a >>mention of what to block off.) I got 2 plugs, and there appears >>to be 3 holes to plug. Two at the side of the manifold, and >>one is in a runner. I guess I'll just have to go pick up an >>extra plug or something? >> >> There are also two small holes in the bottom of the intake, >>I assume these are for the EGR. Is there any potential problem >>with fuel going down these holes and puddling under there in >>that heat crossover? >> >> Another quick question - the intake gaskets I got included >>a new valley pan. I held it up to the bottom of the Performer, >>and it didn't quite seem to fit. It was the recommended gasket >>set though. Maybe this will sort itself out during the actual >>install, but I just wanted to ask before I got too far into the >>project. :-) > >Until the experts respond, Mopar Muscle, July 1998, >pp 66-71, may help some. Don't know about the 3 holes >though. Upon a re-read of the instructions, I noticed that the two plugs are supposed to be used to block off those two EGR ports. I have no idea what the port in the runner is for, did Ma Mopar ever put a temp sensor in there or something? Guess I'll just get another plug for there. >>--snip-- (Why did Edelbrock name their single plane, high >>RPM "race" manifold the "Torker"?) Oh well... :-) > >What do you expect from a company whose owner is mainly >a chevy guy :-) Heh! :-) >After all, your Performer is either the 3rd >or 4th version with each successive version having smaller >runner sizes ! Really? Is that a good thing or a bad thing? >Bet you a CDN dollar you'll notice a vast improvement in low >end just by replacing the Torker. Yeah, I guess it couldn't get too much worse than the Torker. :-) I'm pretty excited about this round of mods - hopefully it will net me a nice streetable car that'll chew up anything the street can throw at me. :-) After the motor and drivetrain is running right, it'll get the eye candy added (go wing and 440 hockey stripes). I got a catalog from Legendary interiors yesterday, and I was flipping through it like a kid in a candy store, thinking about what I want to do with the interior. (One thing at a time!!) ;-) I've got everything here, or on the way here for the latest round of mods, except for the valve body. (Need to choose between SMR and Turbo Action.) >See you on Sat. Projected periods of rain and 50F. Looking forward to it! (We'll be coming up in Ed's QC Dak) (What Bob is referring to is the Performance World car show at the Toronto International Center. Will any other MMLers be there?) -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Thu Mar 7 17:58:15 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon Steiger) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:29 2004 Subject: quick Edelbrock Performer question Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020307185013.049b4a90@dakota-truck.net> At 07:33 PM 3/6/2002 -0500, you wrote: >Hi, Jon. > >At 10:00 PM 3/5/02 -0500, you wrote: >> My Edelbrock Performer (440) intake arrived today. I do not >>have EGR, so I suspect I will be using the block-offs supplied >>with it to block those threaded ports. (I scanned through the >>directions, but they were real generic, and I didn't see a >>mention of what to block off.) I got 2 plugs, and there appears >>to be 3 holes to plug. Two at the side of the manifold, and >>one is in a runner. I guess I'll just have to go pick up an >>extra plug or something? >> >> There are also two small holes in the bottom of the intake, >>I assume these are for the EGR. Is there any potential problem >>with fuel going down these holes and puddling under there in >>that heat crossover? >> >> Another quick question - the intake gaskets I got included >>a new valley pan. I held it up to the bottom of the Performer, >>and it didn't quite seem to fit. It was the recommended gasket >>set though. Maybe this will sort itself out during the actual >>install, but I just wanted to ask before I got too far into the >>project. :-) > >Until the experts respond, Mopar Muscle, July 1998, >pp 66-71, may help some. Don't know about the 3 holes >though. Upon a re-read of the instructions, I noticed that the two plugs are supposed to be used to block off those two EGR ports. I have no idea what the port in the runner is for, did Ma Mopar ever put a temp sensor in there or something? Guess I'll just get another plug for there. >>--snip-- (Why did Edelbrock name their single plane, high >>RPM "race" manifold the "Torker"?) Oh well... :-) > >What do you expect from a company whose owner is mainly >a chevy guy :-) Heh! :-) >After all, your Performer is either the 3rd >or 4th version with each successive version having smaller >runner sizes ! Really? Is that a good thing or a bad thing? >Bet you a CDN dollar you'll notice a vast improvement in low >end just by replacing the Torker. Yeah, I guess it couldn't get too much worse than the Torker. :-) I'm pretty excited about this round of mods - hopefully it will net me a nice streetable car that'll chew up anything the street can throw at me. :-) After the motor and drivetrain is running right, it'll get the eye candy added (go wing and 440 hockey stripes). I got a catalog from Legendary interiors yesterday, and I was flipping through it like a kid in a candy store, thinking about what I want to do with the interior. (One thing at a time!!) ;-) I've got everything here, or on the way here for the latest round of mods, except for the valve body. (Need to choose between SMR and Turbo Action.) >See you on Sat. Projected periods of rain and 50F. Looking forward to it! (We'll be coming up in Ed's QC Dak) (What Bob is referring to is the Performance World car show at the Toronto International Center. Will any other MMLers be there?) -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From smoker at terraworld.net Thu Mar 7 17:25:38 2002 From: smoker at terraworld.net (MoPar Jamie Kittrell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Couple Mopars For Sale Message-ID: <001501c1c633$ac87d7a0$a02bfe40@oemcomputer> I'm selling these so I can buy the car of my dreams, a '71 Fury Gran Coupe. 1969 D-100 Custom 2wd, had 318, but no motor, will throw in a good running SB. Has Automatic, PS, and even A/C! Kind of rare for one of those to have this. Pics can be seen at http://www.terraworld.net/smoker/truck/69D100/ Asking $750 OBO 1975 Plymouth Gran Fury 4 dr sedan, 360-2v, recently put in new plug wires, air filter, and fuel filter. Interior isnt real bad, just the dash pad and left drivers soor panel. Would make exc. Cop Car clone. Solid, only rust is in the lower rt. quarter and its not alot at all. Trans recently replaced as well. Steering box needs replaced (I've got one for it) and the wiper linkage needs to be hooked up (bushings went bad). Can fix it all. Pics are at: http://www.terraworld.net/smoker/granfury/ Asking $600 OBO 1984 Gran Fury 4 dr, blue on blue. Has a bad 318-2v and trans, but I've got extras. Runs okay other than the rod knock. Blue interior is almost perfect, exc. headliner which is missing. Needs suspension work, and I've got a parts car for the needed parts. Paint faded, but dk. blue vinyl top is in exc. condition. Asking $500 OBO Let me know if your interested in these. They are all located in Sycamore, KS, in the southeastern part of the state. - MoPar Jamie K. 1974 Monaco 4 dr, 400-2v, Driver 1978 B-300, 440-4v, Motorhome 1979 D-100 Custom, 318-2v, bad starter, hauler Poss. Coming soon: 1971 Fury Gran Coupe 4 dr HT, 360-2v To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From smoker at terraworld.net Thu Mar 7 17:25:38 2002 From: smoker at terraworld.net (MoPar Jamie Kittrell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Couple Mopars For Sale Message-ID: <001501c1c633$ac87d7a0$a02bfe40@oemcomputer> I'm selling these so I can buy the car of my dreams, a '71 Fury Gran Coupe. 1969 D-100 Custom 2wd, had 318, but no motor, will throw in a good running SB. Has Automatic, PS, and even A/C! Kind of rare for one of those to have this. Pics can be seen at http://www.terraworld.net/smoker/truck/69D100/ Asking $750 OBO 1975 Plymouth Gran Fury 4 dr sedan, 360-2v, recently put in new plug wires, air filter, and fuel filter. Interior isnt real bad, just the dash pad and left drivers soor panel. Would make exc. Cop Car clone. Solid, only rust is in the lower rt. quarter and its not alot at all. Trans recently replaced as well. Steering box needs replaced (I've got one for it) and the wiper linkage needs to be hooked up (bushings went bad). Can fix it all. Pics are at: http://www.terraworld.net/smoker/granfury/ Asking $600 OBO 1984 Gran Fury 4 dr, blue on blue. Has a bad 318-2v and trans, but I've got extras. Runs okay other than the rod knock. Blue interior is almost perfect, exc. headliner which is missing. Needs suspension work, and I've got a parts car for the needed parts. Paint faded, but dk. blue vinyl top is in exc. condition. Asking $500 OBO Let me know if your interested in these. They are all located in Sycamore, KS, in the southeastern part of the state. - MoPar Jamie K. 1974 Monaco 4 dr, 400-2v, Driver 1978 B-300, 440-4v, Motorhome 1979 D-100 Custom, 318-2v, bad starter, hauler Poss. Coming soon: 1971 Fury Gran Coupe 4 dr HT, 360-2v To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Thu Mar 7 18:45:36 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: This list Message-ID: > >At 05:00 PM 3/7/2002, Rad Craig wrote: >>Is there anyway the admin of this list can set it up so that when a message >>comes to you and you want to reply that the reply goes to the list instead >>of to the person that originally sent the message? Peter Teubel replies... >That is a function of your own e-mail client. Just do a "reply-to-all". I agree with Peter. It depends on your individual email set up. I don't have a "reply to all" function, but I can write the MML email address in the Cc: section (on my software, Cc means send a copy to...). I have set up an alias in my software's nickname file. It's mml When I type "mml", my software automatically inserts the MML address. (Dang! I never thought that *I* would ever offer computer advice to anyone!) Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Thu Mar 7 18:45:36 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: This list Message-ID: > >At 05:00 PM 3/7/2002, Rad Craig wrote: >>Is there anyway the admin of this list can set it up so that when a message >>comes to you and you want to reply that the reply goes to the list instead >>of to the person that originally sent the message? Peter Teubel replies... >That is a function of your own e-mail client. Just do a "reply-to-all". I agree with Peter. It depends on your individual email set up. I don't have a "reply to all" function, but I can write the MML email address in the Cc: section (on my software, Cc means send a copy to...). I have set up an alias in my software's nickname file. It's mml When I type "mml", my software automatically inserts the MML address. (Dang! I never thought that *I* would ever offer computer advice to anyone!) Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From triky_dik at yahoo.com Thu Mar 7 18:49:50 2002 From: triky_dik at yahoo.com (Tony Slosar) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: POR-15 (was Re: Alternative to powder coating) Message-ID: <20020308004950.93096.qmail@web10402.mail.yahoo.com> I have. I replied to Larry on this but mistakenly went to his address instead of the list. I can't recommend POR-15. Although their marketing is very convincing, I have had the paint fall right off within a few months. Even when using their metal-prep (way expensive). As far as their engine paints, even when thinned to their max suggestion, they are way to thick to spray (looks like sandpaper) and way to thick to brush unless you like the brush-stroked look - impossible to achieve decent results. I am not a paid spokesperson, but try Bill Hirsch (www.hirschauto.com). I have found his colors to be concours-accurate, but difficult to apply without much care. i.e. without professional equipment and many light coats. Hope this helps. Tony --- "James E. Frier" wrote: > Has anyone ever tried Por-15? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From triky_dik at yahoo.com Thu Mar 7 18:56:42 2002 From: triky_dik at yahoo.com (Tony Slosar) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: More POR-15 (was RE: Alternative to powder coating) Message-ID: <20020308005642.94239.qmail@web10402.mail.yahoo.com> Hello again, I am certainly not a basher of POR-15 but I must relate: I placed a big order with them (~$200) based on their marketing materials and articles I read in magazines. In addition to my experience with engine paints (previous post) I had no luck with their "Marine Clean" - I bought a gallon of it (way expensive) - it really did nothing. Not even as good as TSP. When I called to return it, the sales guy ARGUED with me that I must be crazy. He did in fact return my money promptly. I can provide his name to substantiate this if anyone wants it (and I can find the emails). Tony --- Rad Craig wrote: > I just went to check out their site. I know they have excellent products. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From normc at scamp.osullivan.com Thu Mar 7 19:49:03 2002 From: normc at scamp.osullivan.com (Norman Cornell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Couple Mopars For Sale Message-ID: <003c01c1c643$713b3a60$6d0b4094@pc1> HEY!!! I just happen to have the car of your dreams for sale! Norm - Golden City, MO ----- http://scamp.osullivan.com 1982 Plymouth Voyager * 1993 Dodge Stealth SE (15.58@89) 1971 Plymouth Fury Gran Coupe 360 (paisley top and interior) FOR SALE 1972 Plymouth Scamp 360 (15.42@91 / TBD on nitrous) 1973 Plymouth Scamp 360 (12.27@112 / 11.53@117 on nitrous) ----- Original Message ----- From: "MoPar Jamie Kittrell" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 5:25 PM Subject: Couple Mopars For Sale > I'm selling these so I can buy the car of my dreams, a '71 Fury Gran Coupe. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wilkie_steven at emc.com Thu Mar 7 21:02:26 2002 From: wilkie_steven at emc.com (wilkie, steven) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: New fuel pump broke first time out Message-ID: <69C8DD8179FCD41187CC0003470E0196039077E7@srstarr.lss.emc.com> Ok has anyone ever have the fuel pump lever break? I installed the fuel pump a couple of days ago but haven't had time to take it for a ride until tonight. About a mile down the road the car just dies. I determine I'm not getting any fuel after checking the coil wire and ballast resistor etc cause it seemed like there was no spark. After Ron finally shows up we can see there is spark and further testing shows no fuel. This is the maiden voyage with the new Carter 6psi fuel pump mind you. We get the car to the shop and we get a stock pump. Once removed we see the lever broken in two and the spring missing......oh yeah both inside the motor!!! We finally get the parts out (long day/night) and the lever seemed to be getting hit by the fuel pump rod perfectly but for some reason it broke. Ron says he has never seen this and says the part is defective but has anyone else ever experienced this? What a pain in the butt. Now I have all these extra costs that I think Carter should reimburse me for. This is a newly rebuilt 440 and darn luck it didn't destroy it. Wilks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Thu Mar 7 21:33:19 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Whats up with Barracuda Motorsports? Message-ID: <004801c1c651$ff614560$7192fea9@computer> Can't open their web site, anyone know what the problem is? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From grobins at freenet.npiec.on.ca Thu Mar 7 21:35:42 2002 From: grobins at freenet.npiec.on.ca (Glen Robins) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Re-intro Message-ID: <001f01c1c652$53d88040$5e2623cf@hppav> Welcome back, Bill! Good to know that there is some Mopar Muscle strutting around in Germany! Glen Robins <>< '63 Windsor 2dr H/T > Hi all, > > Its been a while since I have been active on the MML. My recent move to > Germany and shortly after I arrived they dropped a month and a half school > on me took up a lot of time over the last 6 months. I see alot of new names > so I thought I would do a re-intro. > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From harling at cadence.com Thu Mar 7 21:52:33 2002 From: harling at cadence.com (Dan Harling) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: This list Message-ID: <0D3972F302D58440BD35BF14DC48AF5604A7F5@exmbx01chel.global.cadence.com> > From: Rad Craig [mailto:rad@learn2.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 5:01 PM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: This list > > Is there anyway the admin of this list can set it up so > that when a message comes to you and you want to reply > that the reply goes to the list instead of to the person > that originally sent the message? Normally this topic would belong on the MML-Admin list, but since others who are not on the Admin list might also benefit, I think a brief perspective is in order. (Please direct any questions directly to me, and any further discussion of this topic to the MML-Admin list.) With around 1,000 members, the MML carries a lot of traffic, and the mail server can be overloaded such that it can take hours before an incoming message is distributed. Every time a message intended for an individual is sent mistakenly to the List adds to that burden. In contrast, when a message intended for the List is sent mistakenly to an individual, it only needs to be re-sent to the List address. This was the original reasoning behind the decision to make "reply to sender" rather than "reply to list" the default, and the situation has not changed appreciably since then. _________________________________________________________________________ Daniel A. Harling <>< Member of Consulting Staff Cadence Design Systems http://www.cadence.com Chelmsford, MA > > For instance, someone asks a question on the list of where > can I get the > best deal on muffler bearings and prop wash? > > I want to reply to the list with my answer because there may > be others on > the list wanting to know the answer to the same question...I mean who > couldn't use new muffler bearings? > > I know this option is in the configuration of about every list server > imaginable, it just has to be changed from "reply to > originator" to "reply > to list/group". > > > Rad... > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From leake at garlic.com Thu Mar 7 21:58:48 2002 From: leake at garlic.com (Leake) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: SB Distributor Advance Puzzle Message-ID: <3C8836F8.CFAF1FF9@garlic.com> I've made good progress on my Barracuda, but have a puzzling situation with the electronic distributor advance. As a baseline, I have a 340 with Magnum cylinder heads, single plane intake, TTI headers and 2.5" exhaust, an Edlebrock 750 CFM Carter AFB clone (1407), with a MSD 6AL electronic ignition system. The camshaft is a .450" lift (assuming 1.5:1 rockers - .485" with the 1.6:1 harland sharp roller rockers I have installed) Mopar grind with 268 degrees, which does result in a lumpy idle. The car has a wide ratio A833 4 speed transmission. Based upon the vacuum method of setting the static advance I have found that 12 degrees of advance results in 10 inches of vacuum at 720 rpm, and more timing does not increase the vacuum. Two weeks ago, we disassembled the (used) distributor for two reasons, one to change the initial advance point from about 600 rpm to 1000 rpm so it would be compatible with my setup, and change the total centrifugal advance from 30 degrees to less buy shortening the light spring and discarding the heavy spring. The distributor had a 17 degree plate in it (means 34 degrees at the crankshaft), and I replaced it with a 13 degree plate from another electronic distributor, after cleaning up everything, lubricating all the pivot points after polishing them. The puzzling part is that now with a standard (analog, no dial advance) timing light, I have the 12 degrees of advance, but the total timing without the vacuum advance connected is showing 50 degrees not the 38 degrees I expected (total). This suggests to me that either the plate (stamped 13, and having approximately 0.450" openings) is acting strange or something is wrong with the distributor. With my friends snap on digital timing light (not supposed to be used with a MSD 6AL I found out), the distributor shows 12 degrees of static advance, and 40 degrees of total advance with the 13 degree advance plate - when I expected to see 26 degrees in the centrifugal advance, total advance 38 degrees. In either case, the total advance is much more than I expected without the vacuum advance connected. Any clues or suggestions? As you might imagine this a bit frustrating. My friends distributor machine (a Sun antique) is broken or I would use it to try and figure out what is happening. I'm on digest mode. John Leake '68 Barracuda Fastback 340 4spd '93 Dakota 5.2L '97 Intrepid 3.5L To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From JefGruwell at aol.com Thu Mar 7 22:56:37 2002 From: JefGruwell at aol.com (JefGruwell@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: E Body Coil Over Message-ID: <24.21fbe49e.29b99e85@aol.com> Has sombody on MML converted to Coil Over? I've been disatisfied with the handling of my Challenger, but I love the car & drive it Daily. I've installed sway bars from PST, & KYB Gas Adjust Shocks, which did help. I don't mind upgrading to stiffer Torsion bars, but, I like the idea of extra header room and the adjustabilty that a Coil Over Package Offers. I checked this out: http://www.magnumforce.com/store4/coilover_conversion.asp For info on the shocks: http://www.magnumforce.com/store4/aldan/coil_over_springs.htm After speaking with the British Chap at Magnum Force, I was even more curious about going to Coil Over. He says its a true bolt on, and for street applications, no reinforcement is nessecary. I did mention to him about Ford Mustangs needing a "Monte Carlo Bar" to keep the fender wells from flexing. Magnum Force knew what I was talkin about & says the E Body doesn't need that for street use. The way I see it, if your moving the stress from the torsion bar to the shock tower, this may be an issue....... Also, on Moparts.com, I found a new company that that builds an interesting Tubular K frame for the A Body. I spoke with them and they say that they have e body tubular k frames as well. They also offer a Coil Over Suspension Conversion for E Bodys which require a some welding in the Shock tower for reinforcment. It seems like AJE does mostly Mustangs, by looking at their web sight. After speaking with the main guy, he told me he's into Mopars, and he has quite a few examples of his work on some "Serious Mopars".... http://www.ajeracing.com/ Feedback will be apreciated. California Jeff To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Gregg.Burgy at cle.philips.com Thu Mar 7 23:29:01 2002 From: Gregg.Burgy at cle.philips.com (Gregg.Burgy@cle.philips.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Gregg Burgy/Picker is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office from 03/08/2002 until 03/11/2002. Please contact Lois Skubovius regarding any processing issues needing immediate attention. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rrudd28 at nwebs.com Fri Mar 8 00:23:08 2002 From: rrudd28 at nwebs.com (The Disappearing Boy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: 70's Cuda Challenger 61-2 Imp in yard Message-ID: <00ae01c1c669$b765eaa0$1b5b58d8@user> Yard's in Houston, East Side of Beltway 8 on Spencer Highway deep in the heart of redneck refinery land (Pasadena-which used to be the home of Gilley's) This is one of those no one allowed unescorted, no touching type yards. They say it's cause of insurance, which I think is more insurance against thievery than having a car fall on them insurance. They say they have a 70's Cuda and Challenger in the yard, and they told me they're picked but some stuff is left. They also have an early 60's, he said 61-62, Imperial which still has some goodies on it. I didn't see the cars so I suggest you call and ask questions before you show up. The number is 1-800-336-3698 and ask for Marlin. The name of the place is Gold Dust Used Auto Parts. Ray Funke 69 Fury 3 ragtop 70 Imperial LeBaron 4dr HT To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Acuda4me at aol.com Fri Mar 8 00:23:56 2002 From: Acuda4me at aol.com (Acuda4me@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Altenator mystery Message-ID: <156.a1a11df.29b9b2fc@aol.com> Hi guys - Has anyone ever seen THIS before: I noticed on my way home last night that my ammeter was showing a discharge. Next morning I went out to check it and found the large wire that bolts to the altenator the end connector is MISSING and the plastic insulator that keeps in place once bolted to the altenator is MELTED and what is left of the wire is charred. Anybody ever seen this and do you know whether it was altenator failure, wire failure or voltage regularor failure? Also, does anyone know of a vendor from which I could purchase a NEW single-field altenator? Thanks, Jeff Voth 1964 Barracuda 1963 Valiant convertible among others To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dakranz at premier1.net Fri Mar 8 02:13:02 2002 From: dakranz at premier1.net (Dave Kranz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: 1967 Coeonet 500 SE Message-ID: <3C88728E.AF70CF8C@premier1.net> Hello All, I may have an opportunity to buy the above car for a reasonable price. I own a '67 & '66 500 and have owned a '67 R/T. What is an SE? Trim package? If so what additional trim would it have over a 500? Haven't seen the car yet. Would just like to know what to expect/look for. Thanks. Dave -- '66 Coronet 500 440 4 speed (project) '67 Coronet 500 383-2 727 (driver) '72 Scamp 360+++ 727 (sleeper) '72 Dart /6 904 (parts) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Fri Mar 8 06:53:38 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: POR-15 (was Re: Alternative to powder coating) Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C7919756057FCE@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:49:50 -0800 (PST) From: Tony Slosar >I can't recommend POR-15. Although their marketing is very convincing, I have had the paint fall >right off within a few months. Even when using their metal-prep (way expensive). The only time I have had the stuff not stick is when there was some grease or oil that I did not gdt cleaned off. I have it all over my Barracuda, on some rust spots on the bottom of my Daytona and the bottom edge of the tail gate of my Dakota. The stuff has been there any where from 2-5 years and the only thing that's happened is the areas exposed to light lost it's gloss (as POR states it will). >As far as their engine paints, even when thinned to their max suggestion, they are way to thick to >spray (looks like sandpaper) and way to thick to brush unless you like the brush-stroked look - >impossible to achieve decent results. Never tried to spray the engine enamel but I got the same dipped in plastic look with the engine enamel that you get with POR-15. I had absouluty no brush mark issues with either. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Dyatona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http:\\www.geocities.com\dgc333 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From santo426 at mediaone.net Fri Mar 8 07:37:20 2002 From: santo426 at mediaone.net (Sandy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: POR-15 (was Re: Alternative to powder coating) Message-ID: <005f01c1c6a6$66211740$2901a8c0@sandy> I have to agree with Dave. I have brushed this stuff on and within minutes it flows out to leave a perfectly smooth finish with no brush marks... and once it's dried... well... that's it, nothing is getting in or out! Later, Sandy '85 Dodge 600 'Vert, 2.2 turbo... kinda neat '70 Hemi RR-project car, B5, 4 spd, SuperTracPack ************ http://www.sandysgarage.com ************ ************* http://www.garagecams.com ************* ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clement Dave-LDC009" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 7:53 AM Subject: RE: POR-15 (was Re: Alternative to powder coating) > Never tried to spray the engine enamel but I got the same dipped in plastic > look with the engine enamel that you get with POR-15. I had absouluty no > brush mark issues with either. > > Dave Clement To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Fri Mar 8 07:44:40 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: POR-15 (was Re: Alternative to powder coating) Message-ID: I hav used POR15 for many years with very good results. >From: Tony Slosar >I have. I replied to Larry on this but mistakenly went to his >address instead of the list. > >I can't recommend POR-15. Although their marketing is very >convincing, I have had the paint fall >right off within a few months. Even when using their metal-prep (way >expensive). > >As far as their engine paints, even when thinned to their max >suggestion, they are way to thick to >spray (looks like sandpaper) and way to thick to brush unless you >like the brush-stroked look - >impossible to achieve decent results. > >I am not a paid spokesperson, but try Bill Hirsch >(www.hirschauto.com). I have found his colors to >be concours-accurate, but difficult to apply without much care. i.e. >without professional >equipment and many light coats. > >Hope this helps. > >Tony > > >--- "James E. Frier" wrote: >> Has anyone ever tried Por-15? > > >__________________________________________________ > _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Fri Mar 8 07:46:25 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Altenator mystery Message-ID: <002701c1c6a7$a4ce34e0$0200000a@dna> Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN Subject: Altenator mystery >. Next morning I went out to check it and > found the large wire that bolts to the altenator the end connector is MISSING > and the plastic insulator that keeps in place once bolted to the altenator is > MELTED and what is left of the wire is charred. Anybody ever seen this and do > you know whether it was altenator failure, wire failure or voltage regularor > failure? Loose connection causes that. Also, does anyone know of a vendor from which I could purchase a NEW > single-field altenator? Try Summit or Jegs. Usually a good rebuilt does fine if the connections are tight. What actually happens is where the wire is crimped to the wire gets loose and the thing burns up. It's not the nut being loose. They will do the same thing under the dash on the back of the ammeter and burn that stuff up too. > Jeff Voth To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From uscl at staffing.net Fri Mar 8 07:44:09 2002 From: uscl at staffing.net (U S Consultants, LTD.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Car Covers Message-ID: <000101c1c6ad$0e9b86c0$e57df7a5@default> Anyone know where is the cheapest place to get a good cover???? Need one for my Dart. Have checked out Summit, Jegs, J C Whitney and Pep Boys. Any other suggestions? Mel To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mopar1 at nightlands.com Fri Mar 8 08:33:15 2002 From: Mopar1 at nightlands.com (Racer Rick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: FW: please forward message Message-ID: <200203080633.AA99876914@nightlands.com> I a have a super low milage (under 2000) 340 short block (69' casting, 30 over with plates, forged crank, MP race balancer, forged pistons, competition balanced to 1/10 of one gram, file fit rings, fully studded, with the MP oil restriction kit, 284/528 solid cam, cloyes chain, windage tray, etc, etc, built by Beatty & Woods. True 10.5:1 compression with blueprinted combustion chambers. I may sell it since I want to go to a 360 low compression bottom end for the turbo project. I may just swap in a 4" crank and call it good. ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)" Reply-To: "Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)" Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 16:00:10 -0500 >Frank asked me to forward this to the list. PLEASE respond to him directly as he is currently "MML Challenged" > >"smokin" Joe > >-----Original Message----- >From: Borris, Frank [mailto:Frank.Borris@nhtsa.dot.gov] >Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 3:52 PM >To: jborg@exchange.ml.com >Subject: please forward message > > >I am not able to post to the list. Can you forward this for me? > >From: Frank Borris (frank.borris@nhtsa.dot.gov) >To: mml@ChE2.tamu.edu >Date: 3/5/02 2:32PM >Subject: 340 block needed > >Does anyone have a rebuildable 340 in the DC, MD, PA,VA area. If it will clea >n up with a 0.030" over bore, it will work for me. > >Frank S. Borris >Safety Defects Investigator >NHTSA >Washington, DC > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > __________________________________________________ D O T E A S Y - "Join the web hosting revolution!" http://www.doteasy.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From don.rey at uconn.edu Fri Mar 8 08:33:57 2002 From: don.rey at uconn.edu (Don Rey) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Car Covers Message-ID: <135c01c1c6ae$4822e4a0$158a6389@radon> Mel, I bought mine at Walmart for $20. It does the trick... as long as you're not expecting it to keep all the moisture off. Claims to be water resistant, which it is; But thats all it is. (Probably true of most car covers.) Don '74 Dart Sport 340 CT ----- Original Message ----- From: "U S Consultants, LTD." To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 8:44 AM Subject: Car Covers > Anyone know where is the cheapest place to get a good cover???? Need one for > my Dart. Have checked out Summit, Jegs, J C Whitney and Pep Boys. Any other > suggestions? > Mel > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mopar1 at nightlands.com Fri Mar 8 08:39:51 2002 From: Mopar1 at nightlands.com (Racer Rick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car Message-ID: <200203080639.AA135594028@nightlands.com> Ouch - my old 74' Dodge Custom Cop car (440,727,9.25" with stupid gears - 2.41 or 2.24?) would bury the 140 mph certified speedo without a problem. It did also have a little sticker on the glove box saying the car was built for law enforcement use so it was emmisions exempt :) ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Karl M." Reply-To: "Karl M." Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 23:00:20 -0700 >Peter, > > I was a reserve with a sheriff's dept in CA in 78 - 79 and we had several >of those cars (well actually the Dodge Monaco version). They were pretty >lame. They'd launch ok from a stop but had no horsepower to gain speed. The >compression was a meager 8.2:1 in the last years and combined with the turd >cam and the lean burn they made lots of noise with the secondaries open but >little conversion of fuel to speed. Given a long run they'd get to the mid >120 mph mark. But even with the low compression a good cam and getting rid >of the lean burn can help make them a decent engine. We also had some of >them in the 77 - 78 flavors with the 360. Those would top out about 90 with >a 3 mile or so run. > >Peter Engel wrote: > >> Others have indicated what you need to do to verify that the car was >> built as a police car and i agree. The data plate info is key. >> >> The yard I worked in bought a genuine 78 cop car in the early 80s. It >> was a 440 car and had been part of a high speed chase. The cop car >> driver had pulled some kind of "Dukes of Hazzard" stunt. Except that in >> real life the car didn't get airborne and then land to drive away just >> fine. The front bumper was all bent and scraped up on the bottom and >> the car was kinked in half. Big clumps of soil were jammed up inside >> the rear bumper. It was funny to see it parked on a flat parking lot >> because the rockers almost touched the ground around the middle of the >> car. I think we paid $400 for the car at auction and it had 2X,000 >> miles. It did run. >> >> The car sat around for several years because the yard owner wanted too >> much for the "police special" 440. I pulled the certified speedo and >> other dash gauges -- I may still have them! >> >> Well one day a guy with a brown Dodge "B" party van comes in and gets >> all excited about the "police special" 440. He wants to put it in his >> van. I was skeptical. >> >> But he did it! Somehow. He torched the front crossmember to make room >> for the oilpan and did some mount modifications too. I remember that >> the engine didn't sit right (level and straight). Unfortunately he also >> scrapped the Lean Burn spark control computer and replaced the dual >> pickup distributor with a point-type setup. >> >> Can you say "big brown turd?" I don't know if it was the Lean Burn cam >> grind or what but that thing ran like a slant 6. It started just fine >> and idled great but made no power. He came back a few times and >> complained about the engine being junk but that wasn't the case. Must >> have been the modifications. >> >> Pete in PA > >-- >Karl M. >------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph > was 14.50 @ 95 mph >67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) >74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C >79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 > > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > __________________________________________________ D O T E A S Y - "Join the web hosting revolution!" http://www.doteasy.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mopar1 at nightlands.com Fri Mar 8 08:41:56 2002 From: Mopar1 at nightlands.com (Racer Rick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:30 2004 Subject: Idle speed adjustment on 2.5L w/TBI Message-ID: <200203080641.AA10289512@nightlands.com> Big vacumn leak - check under the intake around the PVC. If the PVC has come out it will idle arould 2500 rpm. ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Dan Harling" Reply-To: "Dan Harling" Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 21:06:34 -0500 >Sorry, one more 2.5L question. Hot or cold, my car idles anywhere from 2K - 3K RPM, and utting it in Drive on dry pavement without applying the brakes will chirp the tires. I cannot figure out how to adjust it downward. According to the FSM, the idle speed on TBI cars is controlled by the computer (based on the throttle position sensor, vehicle speed sensor etc.), and cannot be adjusted with a set-screw like the carbureted version. > >So...what is the best way to get the idle speed under control? Is there a sensor or component that typically causes high idle speed when it starts to go bad? Or should I just file down the throttle plate stop, tap it and install a set-screw? :-) Old habits die hard... >_________________________________________________________________________ >Daniel A. Harling <>< Member of Consulting Staff > Cadence Design Systems >http://www.cadence.com Chelmsford, MA >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > __________________________________________________ D O T E A S Y - "Join the web hosting revolution!" http://www.doteasy.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Fri Mar 8 09:09:32 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Car Covers Message-ID: Doubt you find it any cheaper than the companies you mentioned. >From: "U S Consultants, LTD." >Reply-To: "U S Consultants, LTD." >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: Car Covers >Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 08:44:09 -0500 > >Anyone know where is the cheapest place to get a good cover???? Need one for >my Dart. Have checked out Summit, Jegs, J C Whitney and Pep Boys. Any other >suggestions? >Mel > > > _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Fri Mar 8 09:14:44 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Car Covers Message-ID: <006101c1c6b3$fb478ae0$0200000a@dna> Wal-mart,Autozone,Advance auto Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 8:44 AM Subject: Car Covers > Anyone know where is the cheapest place to get a good cover???? Need one for > my Dart. Have checked out Summit, Jegs, J C Whitney and Pep Boys. Any other > suggestions? > Mel > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From baroon at robdiesel.com Fri Mar 8 09:37:46 2002 From: baroon at robdiesel.com (Reverend Baroon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Powdercoating engine parts (was: High Gloss Engine Paint) Message-ID: <009301c1c6b7$321709d0$c800a8c0@robdiesel.com> Here is the answer I got from a powdercoating friend of mine. ===================== On the powdercoating, a engine block can be powdercoated however if the temp is going to exceed about 450 degrees you would run the risk of damage to the coating. Morton is now making a high temp powdercoat but we have not had any or very little request for using this powder so we dont stock it. It is quite a bit more expensive that standard powder.. ===================== Hope this helps, Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rad Craig" I could be wrong, but I don't think powdercoating the block (maybe) and heads (definitely) would be a good idea. Powdercoating only takes a few hundred degrees (400?) to cure, what's to stop it from baking right back off on hot engine parts? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From agarland at hst.nasa.gov Fri Mar 8 10:00:23 2002 From: agarland at hst.nasa.gov (Andy Garland) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car Message-ID: Wow, what's up with these lame copcar numbers? ;-) The '79 NY'er I recently picked up will easily bury the speedometer. Okay, it's only an '85 mph speedo, but it seems like it gets there faster than a 150 hp car of this bulk has any right to, and then it keeps on going once it pegs it! It's just a 360 2-bbl, and I'd guess the rear-end is a 2.41:1 or something like that. I don't know...haven't bothered to crawl under it to check the little tag yet. I used to have a '79 Newport with just a 318-2bbl, and even it didn't seem too bad, considering it had about 230K miles on it when I bought it, and a whopping 135 hp. The speedometer was off enough that I got a ticket for doing 88 mph, when the speedo was only reading 73. I used to bury the speedo needle on that one pretty easily too, and that car never seemed to strain... -Andy Garland 1957 DeSoto Firedome 1968 Dodge Dart 270 1979 Chrysler NY'er 5th Ave 1989 Plymouth Gran Fury 2000 Dodge Intrepid > >---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- >From: "Karl M." >Reply-To: "Karl M." >Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 23:00:20 -0700 > >>Peter, >> >> I was a reserve with a sheriff's dept in CA in 78 - 79 and we had several >>of those cars (well actually the Dodge Monaco version). They were pretty >>lame. They'd launch ok from a stop but had no horsepower to gain speed. The >>compression was a meager 8.2:1 in the last years and combined with the turd >>cam and the lean burn they made lots of noise with the secondaries open but >>little conversion of fuel to speed. Given a long run they'd get to the mid >>120 mph mark. But even with the low compression a good cam and getting rid >>of the lean burn can help make them a decent engine. We also had some of >>them in the 77 - 78 flavors with the 360. Those would top out about 90 with > >a 3 mile or so run. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Fri Mar 8 10:02:38 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (George) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: More on POR 15.... Message-ID: <200203081102.AA14549518@nettally.com> I tried some too, seems to be tough, but too expensive for me. Best suggestion: use URETHANE PRIMER AND THEN STANDARD ENGINE ENAMAL SPRAY CANS OFF THE SHELF. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mikeh at satx.rr.com Fri Mar 8 10:28:23 2002 From: mikeh at satx.rr.com (Mike Harriman) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Body SHops Message-ID: Hello, Can anyone recommend a good body shop in the San Antonio Texas area for auto restoration work? Thanks Mike Harriman To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mopar1 at nightlands.com Fri Mar 8 10:58:37 2002 From: Mopar1 at nightlands.com (Racer Rick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Powdercoating engine parts (was: High Gloss Engine Paint) Message-ID: <200203080858.AA374472958@nightlands.com> >===================== >On the powdercoating, a engine block can be powdercoated however if the >temp is going to exceed about 450 degrees you would run the risk of damage >to the coating. Morton is now making a high temp powdercoat but we have not >had any or very little request for using this powder so we dont stock it. >It is quite a bit more expensive that standard powder.. >===================== > >Hope this helps, There is no Morton anymore - It is now Rohm & Haas Automotive Coatings or Rohm & Haas Powder coatings... I work for them and we have the Powder order center upstairs. There is a line called the Mor-Temp line that will withstand a lot of heat and will work on cast iron without a problem. I just asked and it will withstand at least 500 surface degrees. I was told that the actual tmep range depends on the color. Some colors will start to brown before others. __________________________________________________ D O T E A S Y - "Join the web hosting revolution!" http://www.doteasy.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wilkie_steven at emc.com Fri Mar 8 11:31:54 2002 From: wilkie_steven at emc.com (wilkie, steven) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Various black hockey stripe colors? Message-ID: <69C8DD8179FCD41187CC0003470E0196039077FA@srstarr.lss.emc.com> I wanted to place an order for the 440 numbers in Black so I could remove the current 383 numbers from Performace Graphic (thanks to a few MML'er tips) and they asked me if I wanted 1.) Reflective 2.) Gloss or 3.) textured matte black? Darn I didn't realize there was a choice. Thank god they are sending samples for me to figure it out but were all these offered on the '70 Cuda Plum Crazy or where they for a variety of cars? I hope I'll be able to tell once I get the samples or I guess get as close as possible. Nothing is straight forward....gotta love the little things.... Wilks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wolfman48757 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 8 12:10:23 2002 From: wolfman48757 at yahoo.com (Klayton Glendale) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Squeeky Message-ID: <20020308181023.66639.qmail@web20802.mail.yahoo.com> Dear MMLrs: I have a 2000 Chrysler 300M with 34,000 miles on it. About one month ago I replaced the disc brake pads with (a local brake shop) ceramic pads. Soon, a horrible squeeking sound appeared. I returned to the shop immediately ... and the manager said the rear pads needed to replaced and the rotors needed to be turned. So I obliged him. Right now it still squeeks on an occassional basis. Has anyone out there any thoughts on this matter? Derek K. Glendale __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Fri Mar 8 12:43:44 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Texas junk yards Message-ID: <3C88B200.23179.3540A46@localhost> Guys and Gals: Looks like I will be driving down to Texas over spring break. I am going to Dallas, Houston, San Antonio, and then down to Brownsville, then back up to Texarkana. I want to hit some mopar junkyards on the way, specifically ones that have Ebodies or 66 chargers. Can anyone recommend some of these to me? I saw the post talking about Gold Dust Used Auto Parts, So I may add them to my list. Thanks! Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Fri Mar 8 12:47:24 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Car Covers Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C7919756057FD3@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 08:44:09 -0500 From: "U S Consultants, LTD." >Anyone know where is the cheapest place to get a good cover???? Need one for >my Dart. Have checked out Summit, Jegs, J C Whitney and Pep Boys. Any other >suggestions? Mel, I got a cover from these folks; http://www.coversearch.com/ I looked at every source I could find and this place had the best prices for what you got. I have the top of the line cover which has been used out doors for the past 2 years and it is holding up perfectly. The three layer material is for all practical purposes water proof, it only leaks along the seams and lets no dust through. It also breaths very well because there is never any condensation build up under it. These covers are what is refered to as a semi custom fit. I used there selection guide for sizing the cover for my 68 Barracuda and I thought it was too tight, felt like I was stressing the material to get it over the bumpers. Anyway, they were excellent to deal with after the fact and sent me a prepaid return shipping label and I had the replacement in less than a week. Their cheap $35.00 cover is made of the same material that you get from Wal-Mart and AutoZone. It is not at all waterproof and would let a significant amount of dust get through. IMHO, they only thing this cover did was keep bird & tree droppings off and provide UV prtection. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Dyatona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http:\\www.geocities.com\dgc333 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cowboys at utdallas.edu Fri Mar 8 12:48:53 2002 From: cowboys at utdallas.edu (Giant A. Aryani) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: 78 Fury cop car Message-ID: Actually, folks are a little bit exaggerating here. The '78 Fury A38 with the 440 was America's fastest production car that year topping out at 133 mph at the Michigan State Police trials and that's with the extra weight of a second officer in the car. Even the fastest factory production Corvette wasn't as fast. Now, if you talk about acceleration, yes, they weren't that quick, only accelerating in the low 9 sec. range from 0-60 mph. Have a nice day --------------- Giant On Fri, 8 Mar 2002, Andy Garland wrote: > Wow, what's up with these lame copcar numbers? ;-) The '79 NY'er I To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Fri Mar 8 12:50:32 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Idea for locating spot welds Message-ID: <3C88B398.12506.35A42CC@localhost> Guys and gals: I am in the process of drilling out lots of spot welds on my challenger TA. Sometimes it is hard to locate every spot weld. I had an idea to make it easier. Suppose I could locate some temperature sensitive paint and spray it on the area where the spot welds are, after stripping all other paint and covering with a wire brush. Then somehow heat up the metal. The area where the spot welds are should stay cooler because the spot weld will conduct heat to the lower piece of metal. Then the heat sensitive paint would show where the spot welds are. Ideally the heat sensitive paint would stay a different color. Does anyone think this will work or know of any heat sensitive paint that changes colors? Thanks! Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From stephen.durr at divine.com Fri Mar 8 12:58:06 2002 From: stephen.durr at divine.com (Stephen Durr) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Dyno'd the Challenger yesterday Message-ID: <002901c1c6d3$2f35f930$c120010a@adtest.chil1.parlano.com> Took the Challenger yesterday to have it run on the DynoJet so I can get a baseline on it before I do the EFI conversion and supercharger. It produced 341.3 rear-wheel horsepower and 399.9 lb-ft of torque. Peak torque came at 3,500 rpm and peak horsepower came at 5,200 rpm. Stephen Durr 70 Challenger R/T 440 SixPack 99 Avenger ES To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Fri Mar 8 13:10:56 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: quick Edelbrock Performer question Message-ID: The thread continues... > Upon a re-read of the instructions, I noticed that the two plugs >are supposed to be used to block off those two EGR ports. I have no >idea what the port in the runner is for, did Ma Mopar ever put a >temp sensor in there or something? Guess I'll just get another plug >for there. Hi Jon, I get confused about who is writing to whom, but I do have a guess about the port in the runner. Especially if it is in the front, toward the water pump. It might be a threaded, blind hole for the detonation sensor, or knock sensor. If it is a true hole and behind the carb, it may be a vacuum port for the vacuum tree or power brakes. The PCV should also have access to the intake stream, but I forget if that's through a fat tube in the base of the carburetor, or directly to the manifold (My memory keeps on getting the Ford and Mopar setups confused!) Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rad at learn2.com Fri Mar 8 13:09:59 2002 From: rad at learn2.com (Rad Craig) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Texas junk yards Message-ID: Texas Acres in Kileen Tx (www.texasacres.com) would be one I'd check if it's close to your route. Rad... -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu]On Behalf Of Greg Garner Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 12:44 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Texas junk yards Guys and Gals: Looks like I will be driving down to Texas over spring break. I am going to Dallas, Houston, San Antonio, and then down to Brownsville, then back up to Texarkana. I want to hit some mopar junkyards on the way, specifically ones that have Ebodies or 66 chargers. Can anyone recommend some of these to me? I saw the post talking about Gold Dust Used Auto Parts, So I may add them to my list. Thanks! Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rolney at socal.rr.com Fri Mar 8 13:51:55 2002 From: rolney at socal.rr.com (Ross Olney) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Dyno'd the Challenger yesterday Message-ID: <006101c1c6da$b5d43cc0$6501a8c0@becky> is the engine stock or what kind of mods have been done to it? Ross 69 Charger RT http://www.69chargerrt.com Cuda Challenger Message Board http://www.cuda-challenger.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Durr" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 10:58 AM Subject: Dyno'd the Challenger yesterday > Took the Challenger yesterday to have it run on the DynoJet so I can get a > baseline on it before I do the EFI conversion and supercharger. It produced > 341.3 rear-wheel horsepower and 399.9 lb-ft of torque. Peak torque came at > 3,500 rpm and peak horsepower came at 5,200 rpm. > > Stephen Durr > 70 Challenger R/T 440 SixPack > 99 Avenger ES > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From efrier at worldnet.att.net Fri Mar 8 13:57:25 2002 From: efrier at worldnet.att.net (James E. Frier) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: POR-15 (was Re: Alternative to powder coating) Message-ID: <000f01c1c6db$78eb2b60$f756510c@madmax> I asked my neighbor (the jet mechanic) about problems with spraying the POR-15 and he said that you ABSOLUTELY MUST make sure that there is NO MOISTURE in your compressor or your lines. If there is even a tiny bit of moisture in your lines, you will have problems with this stuff. the POR-15 people sell a small moisture filter that fits immediately before your spray gun but it can only filter so much. Apparently, the trick is to get all of the moisture out of your lines. If I try it, I'll let you know. James E. Frier 1976 Plymouth Fury 4-door Sedan Salon (Former Undercover Cop Car for the City of Pacifica, CA) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From stephen.durr at divine.com Fri Mar 8 14:15:29 2002 From: stephen.durr at divine.com (Stephen Durr) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Dyno'd the Challenger yesterday Message-ID: <001501c1c6dd$fe5d3d40$c120010a@adtest.chil1.parlano.com> Engine mods: Hughes cam, .515 lift, 230 duration @.050 Hooker super comps Keith Black 9.5:1 pistons MSD 6AL ignition ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross Olney" To: "Stephen Durr" ; "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 1:51 PM Subject: Re: Dyno'd the Challenger yesterday > is the engine stock or what kind of mods have been done to it? > > Ross > 69 Charger RT > http://www.69chargerrt.com > Cuda Challenger Message Board > http://www.cuda-challenger.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Stephen Durr" > To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" > Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 10:58 AM > Subject: Dyno'd the Challenger yesterday > > > > Took the Challenger yesterday to have it run on the DynoJet so I can get a > > baseline on it before I do the EFI conversion and supercharger. It > produced > > 341.3 rear-wheel horsepower and 399.9 lb-ft of torque. Peak torque came > at > > 3,500 rpm and peak horsepower came at 5,200 rpm. > > > > Stephen Durr > > 70 Challenger R/T 440 SixPack > > 99 Avenger ES > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Fri Mar 8 14:43:29 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: quick Edelbrock Performer question Message-ID: On Fri, 8 Mar 2002, George Chang wrote: > The thread continues... > > > Upon a re-read of the instructions, I noticed that the two plugs > >are supposed to be used to block off those two EGR ports. I have no > >idea what the port in the runner is for, did Ma Mopar ever put a > >temp sensor in there or something? Guess I'll just get another plug > >for there. > > Hi Jon, > > I get confused about who is writing to whom, but I do have a > guess about the port in the runner. Especially if it is in the > front, toward the water pump. It might be a threaded, blind hole for > the detonation sensor, or knock sensor. I'm not sure if its in the front or the back (I'm not too familiar with the BB manifolds, and haven't had a chance to really study it yet. Here's a pic of the manifold from Edelbrock's site though: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/autopartsphotos/manifolds/2191.jpg In the top right corner of the pic, you can see the threaded hole in the very last runner, which is either for cyl 8 or 1, depending on which way is front... I noticed on the pics for Edelbrock's web site, the Performer RPM also has a similar sized hole in a runner, but its on the opposite side of the manifold. If I had to guess just by looking at the photo, I'd say its at the rear of the manifold (assuming the TQ secondaries are larger than the primaries...), and also assuming that they'd put their logo on the front of the manifold. -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From itsah at earthlink.net Fri Mar 8 14:58:07 2002 From: itsah at earthlink.net (Steve Havens) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Hood Scoop Message-ID: <3C8925DF.F0845CE5@earthlink.net> Does anyone have a 70 Coronet R/T or Super Bee with the center hood scoop not the Ram Charger twin scoops? TIA Steve To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From TClein at billard.com Fri Mar 8 15:11:32 2002 From: TClein at billard.com (Tim Clein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Idea for locating spot welds Message-ID: <5B98DA5E04ADD51182A300D0B7A79C222D2D76@WTB-MAIL> a much simpler method is too simply sand the seam where spot welds are located the spot welds will always be lower than surrounding metal and can easily be spotted another method is to use your finger and just feel for the low spots the one bummer to drilling out welds is sometimes the guys on the line got bored and would hit the same spot several times many parts houses sell a spot weld drilling bit that works pretty well and it makes a difference what it is that you are trying to remove Tim 71 challenger conv 72 duster w/408 under const. -----Original Message----- From: Greg Garner [mailto:Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com] Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 10:51 AM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Idea for locating spot welds Guys and gals: I am in the process of drilling out lots of spot welds on my challenger TA. Sometimes it is hard to locate every spot weld. I had an idea to make it easier. Suppose I could locate some temperature sensitive paint and spray it on the area where the spot welds are, after stripping all other paint and covering with a wire brush. Then somehow heat up the metal. The area where the spot welds are should stay cooler because the spot weld will conduct heat to the lower piece of metal. Then the heat sensitive paint would show where the spot welds are. Ideally the heat sensitive paint would stay a different color. Does anyone think this will work or know of any heat sensitive paint that changes colors? Thanks! Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Fri Mar 8 15:45:11 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: quick Edelbrock Performer question Message-ID: That port is for hooking up power brakes. >From: Jon >Reply-To: Jon >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: Re: quick Edelbrock Performer question >Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 15:43:29 -0500 (EST) > > > >On Fri, 8 Mar 2002, George Chang wrote: > >> The thread continues... >> >> > Upon a re-read of the instructions, I noticed that the two plugs >> >are supposed to be used to block off those two EGR ports. I have no >> >idea what the port in the runner is for, did Ma Mopar ever put a >> >temp sensor in there or something? Guess I'll just get another plug >> >for there. >> >> Hi Jon, >> >> I get confused about who is writing to whom, but I do have a >> guess about the port in the runner. Especially if it is in the >> front, toward the water pump. It might be a threaded, blind hole for >> the detonation sensor, or knock sensor. > > > I'm not sure if its in the front or the back (I'm not too familiar >with the BB manifolds, and haven't had a chance to really study it yet. >Here's a pic of the manifold from Edelbrock's site though: > >http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/autopartsphotos/manifolds/2191.jpg > > In the top right corner of the pic, you can see the threaded hole >in the very last runner, which is either for cyl 8 or 1, depending >on which way is front... I noticed on the pics for Edelbrock's web >site, the Performer RPM also has a similar sized hole in a runner, but >its on the opposite side of the manifold. > > If I had to guess just by looking at the photo, I'd say its at the >rear of the manifold (assuming the TQ secondaries are larger than the >primaries...), and also assuming that they'd put their logo on the >front of the manifold. > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world?s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tigers at bserv.com Fri Mar 8 16:28:33 2002 From: tigers at bserv.com (Bob Tom) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: quick Edelbrock Performer question Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020308172311.009f6050@bserv.com> At 03:43 PM 3/8/02 -0500, Jon wrote: >-- snip -- > If I had to guess just by looking at the photo, I'd say its at the >rear of the manifold (assuming the TQ secondaries are larger than the >primaries...), and also assuming that they'd put their logo on the >front of the manifold. -Jon- Great (and failing) minds think alike :-) My exact sentiments! Bob To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From eskowron at att.net Fri Mar 8 17:01:26 2002 From: eskowron at att.net (eskowron@att.net) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Liquidating the fleet... Message-ID: <20020308230126.ZUIV28073.mtiwmhc21.worldnet.att.net@webmail.worldnet.att. net> Hello all... I was a member of the list a few years ago, but now I'm back, and need to sell most of the cars that I have accumulated over the years. The following is a list of Mopar cars I have for sale. If you have any questions or would like to see pictures, please e-mail me at eskowron@worldnet.att.net. All cars are located at or near Loveland, Colorado. 1956 Chrysler New Yorker, 4-door sedan, 354 Hemi, auto, power steering, power brakes. Original light blue/white paint, good glass, nice chrome, beautiful dash, very little rust. New exhaust, new tires, new brake shoes, master cylinder, and wheel cylinders. Could use new carpet and upholstery. $3500. 1957 Chrysler Windsor, 2-door hardtop, 354 Spitfire, auto. Good body, very little rust. Needs transmission seal, carpet, front seat upholstery (rear seat still has plastic cover!), brake work (car comes with new shoes and wheel cylinders), windshield (cracked). Comes with 1957 Chrysler New Yorker 4-door sedan parts car with 392 Hemi and transmission. Car also comes with new taillights. Both cars complete. Great project! $5500. 1968 Dodge Monaco500, 2-door hardtop, 383 magnum, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seat, air conditioning, dual exhaust. New headliner, new windshield, new vinyl top, good upholstery from 1968 Sport Fury. Needs body work, paint, and master cylinder. Many extra parts. $1300. 1968 Dodge Charger, original 383 magnum, 4-speed manual transmission, tic-toc tach, console. Good glass, interior, new (Year-One) driver?s side rear quarter panel (yet to be installed), two good front bumpers, many extra parts. Great car! Needs body work/paint (VERY little rust!), new clutch. $6000. 1968 Chrysler New Yorker, 4-door sedan, 440, 727 auto trans, power brakes, power steering, power windows, air conditioning, power seat (not working), rear air. Good windshield, interior fair. Driver?s side front and rear windows pitted, should be replaced. $1200. 1979 Chrysler New Yorker Fifth Avenue, 4-door sedan, 360, auto, power brakes, power steering, power windows, air conditioning, leather interior (fair condition). Needs paint and catalytic converter. $600. Thanks, Eric To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Lilhigs at aol.com Fri Mar 8 17:40:52 2002 From: Lilhigs at aol.com (Lilhigs@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Swinger revisited ?? Message-ID: <6e.1908fb96.29baa604@aol.com> I wasd walking around NYC yesterday, during lunch , when I spotted a copper colored Neon sitting at the curb. The color caught my eye, so I gave the car a quick look over. On the trunklid below the NEON name was a second sticker "Swinger" in the classic Swinger script. Is Dodge bringing back the Swinger line ? Has anyone else seen one of these around ?? Steve NYC...LI '68 Cuda '72 Swinger To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From chrisn at wt.net Fri Mar 8 17:57:54 2002 From: chrisn at wt.net (Chris North) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:31 2004 Subject: Parts Needed 1965 Coronet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20020308175754.0083e570@mail.wt.net> It is with a heavy heart that I make this plea. I was just "front-ended" in my 1965 Coronet 440 4dr and I need the following parts Hood Grill (middle section only) Lower Valance Whatever that upper piece is called that the hood latches to. It runs from inner fender to inner fender. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks, chris north To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Fri Mar 8 18:21:27 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Edelbrock BB Heads update Message-ID: My Edelbrock aluminum heads arrived today... I discovered in the instructions that they recommend the Fel Pro 1009 gasket, NOT the Fel Pro 1039 gasket I ordered. Oops. Hopefully Mancini will take them back. (Be nice if that stuff was mentioned on their web site...) Also, regarding the valvetrain... Remember how the Hughes site said a new valvetrain was required, then changed that to say an adjustable valvetrain was required for cams with greater than stock lift? Well, the Edelbrock instructions say an adjustable rocker arm assembly is required. I called their tech number and the guy I spoke with said I definitely needed an adjustable setup due to the difference in valve height. So I guess I'll just bite the bullet and get myself a set of adjustable rockers - I'm thinking about the Hughes Engines aluminum set. Those aren't a roller rocker, (could present a problem if I ever went to a roller cam?) but Hughes seems to know what they're doing and I should at least have a good source of tech info I can fall back on. Plus, they're guaranteed against breakage for life, and come with new shafts. Now I just need to figure out what pushrods I need, what ratio to use, yadda yadda yadda... I tried to call Hughes today to try and sort this all out, but I forgot that they're in the eastern time zone, not pacific so I called too late - it'll have to wait until monday. I just gave the heads a quick once-over, but they look nice; doesn't look like any casting flash or anything to clean up. -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Fri Mar 8 18:46:41 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Swinger revisited ?? Message-ID: <178.4be8a4b.29bab572@aol.com> My thoughts are that the owner may be a swinger, not driving a swinger ;-) --ian (I put a 5.0 badge on my New Yorker...) 68 Newport In a message dated Fri, 8 Mar 2002 6:46:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, Lilhigs@aol.com writes: > I wasd walking around NYC yesterday, during lunch , when I spotted > a copper colored Neon sitting at the curb. The color caught my eye, > so I gave the car a quick look over. On the trunklid below the NEON > name was a second sticker "Swinger" in the classic Swinger script. > Is Dodge bringing back the Swinger line ? Has anyone else seen one > of these around ?? > > Steve > NYC...LI > '68 Cuda > '72 Swinger > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rolney at socal.rr.com Fri Mar 8 18:50:50 2002 From: rolney at socal.rr.com (Ross Olney) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Edelbrock BB Heads update Message-ID: <00b501c1c704$7554c190$6501a8c0@becky> Did you order them from Hughes? If so did you have them modify them any? different springs? Ive been looking into getting a set of edelbrocks but will need springs better then what they come with so I was thinking Hughes might be a good place to go through. Ross 69 Charger RT http://www.69chargerrt.com Cuda Challenger Message Board http://www.cuda-challenger.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 4:21 PM Subject: Edelbrock BB Heads update > > > My Edelbrock aluminum heads arrived today... > > I discovered in the instructions that they recommend the Fel Pro > 1009 gasket, NOT the Fel Pro 1039 gasket I ordered. Oops. > Hopefully Mancini will take them back. (Be nice if that stuff > was mentioned on their web site...) > > Also, regarding the valvetrain... Remember how the Hughes site > said a new valvetrain was required, then changed that to say an > adjustable valvetrain was required for cams with greater than stock > lift? Well, the Edelbrock instructions say an adjustable rocker arm > assembly is required. I called their tech number and the guy I spoke > with said I definitely needed an adjustable setup due to the difference > in valve height. So I guess I'll just bite the bullet and get myself > a set of adjustable rockers - I'm thinking about the Hughes Engines > aluminum set. Those aren't a roller rocker, (could present a problem > if I ever went to a roller cam?) but Hughes seems to know what > they're doing and I should at least have a good source of tech info > I can fall back on. Plus, they're guaranteed against breakage for > life, and come with new shafts. Now I just need to figure out what > pushrods I need, what ratio to use, yadda yadda yadda... > > I tried to call Hughes today to try and sort this all out, but > I forgot that they're in the eastern time zone, not pacific so > I called too late - it'll have to wait until monday. > > > I just gave the heads a quick once-over, but they look nice; > doesn't look like any casting flash or anything to clean up. > > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MidPenMopar at aol.com Fri Mar 8 19:54:29 2002 From: MidPenMopar at aol.com (MidPenMopar@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Gas tank question Message-ID: <85.1871142b.29bac555@aol.com> I just got my gas tank for the 70 roadrunner today from Year One. Does it need to be prepped first? or can it go right on? I mean the outside of the tank, like a primer and paint or is the plain galvanized finish fine? i mean what would the factory have sent it out looking like? Stu California. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kaffeen at mindspring.com Fri Mar 8 20:22:04 2002 From: kaffeen at mindspring.com (Pete) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Cop Cars Message-ID: <000101c1c711$4f4e7d80$f40c183f@pete-s-vaio> Back in 1979, when I was too young to drive, a guy who worked for my Dad picked up a former Oregon State Police 74 Plymouth Fury at an auction for $400. 440 plant, cop tires, cop brakes, cop suspension, all cop car. He took me for a ride that I never forgot. It shifted from first to second gear at 70 mph. A minute later, the car buried the certified 140 speedo on Interstate 84, with me white knuckled in the passenger seat. I think the only mods he made were advancing the timing, running it on premium fuel, and flipping the air cleaner lid over. I'll never forget the roar from the Thermoquad and the wind being ripped to shreads by this missile. People actually pulled over to the side of the road when they saw it coming. Even without the lights on the roof it still looked like a cop car. This guy was really crazy. He later claimed to have made the run between our town and the next, 17 miles, in 9 minutes. This was two lane blacktop, and he did it at night. Many of my best Mopar memories come from a guy who who later turned out to have a brain tumor. Sad, but it explained a lot. He lived. Pete Message Number: 5 Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 12:48:53 -0600 (CST) From: "Giant A. Aryani" Subject: Re: 78 Fury cop car >Actually, folks are a little bit exaggerating here. The '78 Fury A38 with the 440 was America's fastest production car that year topping out at 133 mph at the Michigan State Police trials and that's with the extra weight of a second officer in the car. Even the fastest factory production Corvette wasn't as fast. Now, if you talk about acceleration, yes, they weren't that quick, only accelerating in the low 9 sec. range from 0-60 mph. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From IanMarkV at aol.com Fri Mar 8 20:29:21 2002 From: IanMarkV at aol.com (IanMarkV@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: 440 is in! Message-ID: <150.a23de3c.29bacd81@aol.com> My 440 is in the Newport, i got my exhaust welded up today, and the rear main seal doesn't seem to be leaking anymore since I put a new one in. Oh Triumphant day!!!! I have a pic of my freshened up 440 and how the Newport looks now on my site: http://www.geocities.com/pontiac389_1999/ Enjoy! I know I am! --ian (I love 440's) 68 Newport Custom 2-dr To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Fri Mar 8 21:24:44 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Spot welds Message-ID: <3C892C1C.6195.53108B4@localhost> Tim Clein wrote: >what it is that you are trying to remove (spotwelds) I just got done removing the roof skin off a 72 challenger to go onto my 1970 TA challenger. The next major thing I will be drilling out is the entire from frame rail section including the inner fenders on the same donor car. I need the front frame rails to replace the rusted out frame rails on my 1970 challenger RT convertible. Thanks for the tips! Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Fri Mar 8 21:39:19 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Subject: Squeeky Message-ID: <007a01c1c71c$0217a400$a82c1342@laptop> >Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 10:10:23 -0800 (PST) >From: Klayton Glendale >Subject: Squeeky > > I have a 2000 Chrysler 300M with 34,000 miles on >it. About one month ago I replaced the disc brake pads >with (a local brake shop) ceramic pads. Soon, a >horrible squeeking sound appeared. I returned to the >shop immediately ... and the manager said the rear >pads needed to replaced and the rotors needed to be >turned. So I obliged him. Right now it still squeeks >on an occassional basis. Has anyone out there any >thoughts on this matter? Did the OEM pads use an anti-squeel shim? Brake pads squeel because they have a slip-stick motion across the face of the piston or caliper. Try some anti-squeel compound on the back of the pads (follow the instructions). Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Fri Mar 8 21:57:24 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Subject: Idea for locating spot welds Message-ID: <007f01c1c71e$88473980$a82c1342@laptop> >Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 12:50:32 -0600 >From: "Greg Garner" >Subject: Idea for locating spot welds > >I am in the process of drilling out lots of spot welds on my challenger >TA. Sometimes it is hard to locate every spot weld. I had an idea to >make it easier. Suppose I could locate some temperature sensitive >paint and spray it on the area where the spot welds are, after >stripping all other paint and covering with a wire brush. Then >somehow heat up the metal. The area where the spot welds are >should stay cooler because the spot weld will conduct heat to the >lower piece of metal. Then the heat sensitive paint would show >where the spot welds are. Ideally the heat sensitive paint would stay >a different color. Does anyone think this will work or know of any >heat sensitive paint that changes colors? Its easier to run a wire wheel or sandpaper over the seam. It will scratch the paint everywhere except the weld. The topic of drilling spot welds has been covered in past threads. Just to recap, use a spot weld cutter (there are two styles), not a conventional drill bit. Then use a grinder to remove the excess metal. This method only leaves a hole in one piece. Be sure to use lubricant and don't run the drill too fast. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cowboys at utdallas.edu Sat Mar 9 01:07:56 2002 From: cowboys at utdallas.edu (Giant A. Aryani) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: Gas tank question Message-ID: Either the factory or the dealer would have put undercoating on it, if so ordered by the customer. Have a nice day --------------- Giant On Fri, 8 Mar 2002 MidPenMopar@aol.com wrote: > I just got my gas tank for the 70 roadrunner today from Year One. Does it > need to be prepped first? or can it go right on? I mean the outside of the > tank, like a primer and paint or is the plain galvanized finish fine? i mean > what would the factory have sent it out looking like? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kaldad1 at antelecom.net Sat Mar 9 06:08:39 2002 From: kaldad1 at antelecom.net (John Dahlin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:32 2004 Subject: mailed my pre reg to spring fling Message-ID: <001f01c1c763$26649420$86238bcd@johndahl> so are we having our get together this year?? i am taking my 64 valiant vert this year. since i haven't done squat to my 300 hurst this past year. john 64 valiant vert 66 satellite 70 300 hurst To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From david.cullen at snet.net Sat Mar 9 07:30:58 2002 From: david.cullen at snet.net (Dave Cullen) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: More on POR 15.... Message-ID: <007f01c1c76e$a645b240$6400a8c0@dadspc> A less expensive, more user-friendly alternative to POR-15 is Zero Rust. I've used both products with good results. http://www.zerorust.com/ drc ----------------- > I tried some too, seems to be tough, but too expensive for me. > Best suggestion: use URETHANE PRIMER AND THEN STANDARD ENGINE > ENAMAL SPRAY CANS OFF THE SHELF. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From david.cullen at snet.net Sat Mar 9 07:34:54 2002 From: david.cullen at snet.net (Dave Cullen) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Mopar Posi? Message-ID: <008b01c1c76f$3285a080$6400a8c0@dadspc> Everybody uses the term "Posi" to refer to a locking differential, even tho Positraction is a Chebby term. What is the correct Mopar term for them? drc To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From nonelson at execpc.com Sat Mar 9 08:03:18 2002 From: nonelson at execpc.com (Neil Nelson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: SB Distributor Advance Puzzle Message-ID: <3C8A1620.7BD8@execpc.com> Hi John, Leake wrote: > > I've made good progress on my Barracuda, but have a puzzling situation > with the electronic distributor advance. As a baseline, I have a 340 > with Magnum cylinder heads, single plane intake, TTI headers and 2.5" > exhaust, an Edlebrock 750 CFM Carter AFB clone (1407), with a MSD 6AL > electronic ignition system. The camshaft is a .450" lift (assuming > 1.5:1 rockers - .485" with the 1.6:1 harland sharp roller rockers I have > installed) Mopar grind with 268 degrees, which does result in a lumpy > idle. The car has a wide ratio A833 4 speed transmission. Based upon > the vacuum method of setting the static advance I have found that 12 > degrees of advance results in 10 inches of vacuum at 720 rpm, and more > timing does not increase the vacuum. Ten inches of vacuum isn't very good. I run the same duration cam with more lift w/1.5 rockers and get 17.5 inches at 800 RPM idle. Re-check the lifter pre-load, sounds as if maybe the lifters aren't letting the valves close all the way. Other causes might be a vacuum leak. > Two weeks ago, we disassembled the (used) distributor for two reasons, > one to change the initial advance point from about 600 rpm to 1000 rpm > so it would be compatible with my setup, and change the total > centrifugal advance from 30 degrees to less buy shortening the light > spring and discarding the heavy spring. I'm a little fuzzy here... Are you running only one spring in the distributor? > The distributor had a 17 degree > plate in it (means 34 degrees at the crankshaft), and I replaced it with > a 13 degree plate from another electronic distributor, after cleaning up > everything, lubricating all the pivot points after polishing them. The > puzzling part is that now with a standard (analog, no dial advance) > timing light, I have the 12 degrees of advance, but the total timing > without the vacuum advance connected is showing 50 degrees not the 38 > degrees I expected (total). This suggests to me that either the plate > (stamped 13, and having approximately 0.450" openings) is acting strange > or something is wrong with the distributor. Sounds like maybe your analog timing light is having trouble sorting out the multiple sparks from the MSD box. Also, timing lights do not like solid core plug wires, so if that is what you are using, swap the # 1 plug wire for a supression type. > With my friends snap on digital timing light (not supposed to be used > with a MSD 6AL I found out), the distributor shows 12 degrees of static > advance, and 40 degrees of total advance with the 13 degree advance > plate - when I expected to see 26 degrees in the centrifugal advance, > total advance 38 degrees. In either case, the total advance is much > more than I expected without the vacuum advance connected. You're only off by two degrees. These two degrees can be accounted for by adding up all the tolerances between the distributor plate (the 13* would be approximate), the timing light and also any advance changes from the oil pump drive gear climbing up the cam gear. I'll bet the thirteen degree advance plate is not -exactly- thirteen degrees. You can either shorten the slots in the advance plate by 1/13th of the .450" dimension or set your base timing at 10 degrees. > Any clues or suggestions? As you might imagine this a bit > frustrating. My friends distributor machine (a Sun antique) is broken > or I would use it to try and figure out what is happening. I'm on > digest mode. Most if not all Sun distributor machines were made for points ignition only, unless of course your friend has bread-boarded in an electronic ignition control box. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From nonelson at execpc.com Sat Mar 9 08:03:18 2002 From: nonelson at execpc.com (Neil Nelson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: SB Distributor Advance Puzzle Message-ID: <3C8A1620.7BD8@execpc.com> Hi John, Leake wrote: > > I've made good progress on my Barracuda, but have a puzzling situation > with the electronic distributor advance. As a baseline, I have a 340 > with Magnum cylinder heads, single plane intake, TTI headers and 2.5" > exhaust, an Edlebrock 750 CFM Carter AFB clone (1407), with a MSD 6AL > electronic ignition system. The camshaft is a .450" lift (assuming > 1.5:1 rockers - .485" with the 1.6:1 harland sharp roller rockers I have > installed) Mopar grind with 268 degrees, which does result in a lumpy > idle. The car has a wide ratio A833 4 speed transmission. Based upon > the vacuum method of setting the static advance I have found that 12 > degrees of advance results in 10 inches of vacuum at 720 rpm, and more > timing does not increase the vacuum. Ten inches of vacuum isn't very good. I run the same duration cam with more lift w/1.5 rockers and get 17.5 inches at 800 RPM idle. Re-check the lifter pre-load, sounds as if maybe the lifters aren't letting the valves close all the way. Other causes might be a vacuum leak. > Two weeks ago, we disassembled the (used) distributor for two reasons, > one to change the initial advance point from about 600 rpm to 1000 rpm > so it would be compatible with my setup, and change the total > centrifugal advance from 30 degrees to less buy shortening the light > spring and discarding the heavy spring. I'm a little fuzzy here... Are you running only one spring in the distributor? > The distributor had a 17 degree > plate in it (means 34 degrees at the crankshaft), and I replaced it with > a 13 degree plate from another electronic distributor, after cleaning up > everything, lubricating all the pivot points after polishing them. The > puzzling part is that now with a standard (analog, no dial advance) > timing light, I have the 12 degrees of advance, but the total timing > without the vacuum advance connected is showing 50 degrees not the 38 > degrees I expected (total). This suggests to me that either the plate > (stamped 13, and having approximately 0.450" openings) is acting strange > or something is wrong with the distributor. Sounds like maybe your analog timing light is having trouble sorting out the multiple sparks from the MSD box. Also, timing lights do not like solid core plug wires, so if that is what you are using, swap the # 1 plug wire for a supression type. > With my friends snap on digital timing light (not supposed to be used > with a MSD 6AL I found out), the distributor shows 12 degrees of static > advance, and 40 degrees of total advance with the 13 degree advance > plate - when I expected to see 26 degrees in the centrifugal advance, > total advance 38 degrees. In either case, the total advance is much > more than I expected without the vacuum advance connected. You're only off by two degrees. These two degrees can be accounted for by adding up all the tolerances between the distributor plate (the 13* would be approximate), the timing light and also any advance changes from the oil pump drive gear climbing up the cam gear. I'll bet the thirteen degree advance plate is not -exactly- thirteen degrees. You can either shorten the slots in the advance plate by 1/13th of the .450" dimension or set your base timing at 10 degrees. > Any clues or suggestions? As you might imagine this a bit > frustrating. My friends distributor machine (a Sun antique) is broken > or I would use it to try and figure out what is happening. I'm on > digest mode. Most if not all Sun distributor machines were made for points ignition only, unless of course your friend has bread-boarded in an electronic ignition control box. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jpilone at bellsouth.net Sat Mar 9 08:04:37 2002 From: jpilone at bellsouth.net (Jarrod Pilone) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: WTB Duster Message-ID: <002101c1c773$59983bc0$3901a8c0@jarrod> Does Travis Bailey still have his?? Travis, you out there?? Jarrod jpilone@bellsouth.net http://www.mopar-man.com '69 Dart 4 dr '70 Road Runner 'Vert '72 Demon '73 Dart Swinger Kyosho V-one-R, OFNA OB4 Pro, HPI Nitro Rush, Traxxas T-maxx "A Friend Asked Me If I Wanted A Frozen Banana & I Said 'No, But I Want A Regular Banana Later, So... Yeah.' " ----- Original Message ----- From: "a strain" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 2:42 PM Subject: WTB Duster > I'll try this again. Did not go thru first time > > I am looking for a 1971 Duster 340 matching number that is not a basket case > or rust bucket. > > > Allen Strain > Hixson, TN > 67 Belvedere Convertible 318 - 01 Dakota Quad 4.7 > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudazappa at hotmail.com Sat Mar 9 08:12:45 2002 From: cudazappa at hotmail.com (Cuda Zappa) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: WTB 80 Volare Parts Message-ID: I need the passenger front corner pieces for my 80 Volare, to replace these damaged during winter. I also need the sheetmetal bracket that attaches the grille to the radiator support. A pic for the corner pieces can be found at: http://12.224.101.221/~cudazappa/Img07.jpg Thanks in advance, Gary "CudaZappa" Viola, Middlefield, CT 64 225 to 360 'cuda / 80 225 Volare 4dr / 83 318 'doba http://www.geocities.com/cudazappa9000/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From n5lfh at zeecon.com Sat Mar 9 08:23:21 2002 From: n5lfh at zeecon.com (Greg Kendall) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: POR-15 (was Re: Alternative to powder coating) Message-ID: <3C8A1AD9.8E886D53@zeecon.com> >From someone that doesn't trust himself with paint, I used some POR-15 engine enamel on valve covers several years ago and they still looks fine. Looked terrible the first coat, but I got another on pretty fast and that flattened the look. Spraying was out of the question with one of those portable aerosol cans, so i used a foam brush. Since then, I've painted the oil pan, dustcover, inspection plate, water pump (aluminum), driveshaft, K-frame...It's all still on there even with oil on the surface continuously and those projectiles that hit the driveshaft. MarineClean has become a household product. Bryson Distributing has replaced some old stuff that I didn't use before the expiration date. Greg '71 Duster > I can't recommend POR-15. Although their marketing is very convincing, I have had the paint fall > right off within a few months. Even when using their metal-prep (way expensive). > > As far as their engine paints, even when thinned to their max suggestion, they are way to thick to > spray (looks like sandpaper) and way to thick to brush unless you like the brush-stroked look - > impossible to achieve decent results. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From santo426 at mediaone.net Sat Mar 9 08:40:21 2002 From: santo426 at mediaone.net (Sandy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Mopar Posi? Message-ID: <001401c1c778$588b1f40$0100a8c0@se.mediaone.net> Sure Grip ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Cullen" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 8:34 AM Subject: Mopar Posi? > Everybody uses the term "Posi" to refer to a locking differential, even tho > Positraction is a Chebby term. What is the correct Mopar term for them? > > drc > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dgallimore at neo.rr.com Sat Mar 9 08:49:41 2002 From: dgallimore at neo.rr.com (Don Gallimore) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Ajusting Distributor Vacuum Advance Message-ID: <3C8A2105.E0F2ACF@neo.rr.com> Can anyone tell me which way to turn to dashpot in my Mopar Performance Electronic Conversion Distrbiutor to get less advance? Seems like I've got too much vacuum advance. Need all the gas mileage I can get on this high powered hot rod with the 4.10 gear. Akron Don '65 Belvedere I 440/4spd To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MRCUDA68 at aol.com Sat Mar 9 09:15:14 2002 From: MRCUDA68 at aol.com (MRCUDA68@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Mopar Posi? Message-ID: <15b.a362160.29bb8102@aol.com> Sure Grip To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From chrisn at wt.net Sat Mar 9 10:49:38 2002 From: chrisn at wt.net (Chris North) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Parts Needed 1965 Coronet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20020309104938.00a06100@mail.wt.net> Sorry to mention that I am in Houston, TX. Oh, the "front-ended" occured by the guy ahead of me putting it in reverse and gunning it. Odd, but true. > >It is with a heavy heart that I make this plea. I was just "front-ended" in my 1965 Coronet 440 4dr and I need the following parts > >Hood >Grill (middle section only) >Lower Valance >Whatever that upper piece is called that the hood latches to. It runs from inner fender to inner fender. > >Any leads would be appreciated. > >Thanks, > chris north To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From derob at charter.net Sat Mar 9 11:37:15 2002 From: derob at charter.net (Dan Robinson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Parts Needed 1965 Coronet Message-ID: <3C8A484B.6BCFC57F@charter.net> If a 66 Coronet 2 door front end will work I know where one is. I have a picture if you want to see it. Dan Chris North wrote: > > Sorry to mention that I am in Houston, TX. Oh, the "front-ended" occured > by the guy ahead of me putting it in reverse and gunning it. Odd, but true. > > > > >It is with a heavy heart that I make this plea. I was just "front-ended" > in my 1965 Coronet 440 4dr and I need the following parts > > > >Hood > >Grill (middle section only) > >Lower Valance > >Whatever that upper piece is called that the hood latches to. It runs > from inner fender to inner fender. > > > >Any leads would be appreciated. > > > >Thanks, > > > chris north > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- 66 Charger 426 HEMI, 4 Speed - 68 GTX 440 Auto Cowtown Mopar Performance Team Member http://clubs.hemmings.com/cowtownmopars/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Sat Mar 9 14:13:33 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Cop Cars Message-ID: Pete writes... >Back in 1979, when I was too young to drive, a guy who worked for my Dad >picked up a former Oregon State Police 74 Plymouth Fury at an auction for >$400. 440 plant, cop tires, cop brakes, cop suspension, all cop car.... Hi Pete, Wow, Pete!! I wish that they were selling for that in California! That same year (1979), I tried to pick one up at a local auction. They were selling 4 of them, and they all went for between $2000 and $3000. I had a small kids (including "SpinOut" and "TrannyBoiler") at the time, and I couldn't afford that kind of money. I ended up with a 350 Chevvy Chevelle for $450. That car had a lot of zip, but it also had a lot of problems... 8-( CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mkvien at wiktel.com Sat Mar 9 15:30:52 2002 From: mkvien at wiktel.com (Matthew Kvien) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Need grill and tail R/T emblems for 68 Coronet Message-ID: I have all of the correct exterior R/T parts for finishing the cloning of my 68 Coronet 440, but am short these 2 badges. Can anybody help without putting me in the poor house? Condition doesn't really matter as I can just repaint them, the car is a driver and a clone remember. I hate to buy them NOS from Mitchell on Ebay, but I may have to. I have a good amount of parts to trade if there is interest, otherwise I can pay cash for them. Lots of PW and seat motors and the like, and many other parts from 60s-70s C-bodies mostly. Thanks, Matt To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From NyJimster at aol.com Sat Mar 9 15:42:57 2002 From: NyJimster at aol.com (NyJimster@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: DE-smogging an 85 ram 318 Message-ID: <36.244a11df.29bbdbe1@aol.com> I would like to know what I need to de-smog my 85 ram 318. It is not a lean burn truck, but there are so many freaking hoses & wires I could barely get to the coil & have now mounted the coil on the firewall using an existing stud from what I think is a heater housing box. Jim To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sat Mar 9 16:28:09 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Cop Cars Message-ID: <3C8A8C79.6AE3CD1F@earthlink.net> Funny thing, kinda related...bumped into a guy at the post office today who just moved up from Texas, police officer, has a number of Malibus / Caprices .. LOVED the Fury...almost couldn't get a word in edgewise, he was so verbose. I've met some great folks just because I was driving my car...(Ian knows this as well) Gotta love the attention an old cop car gets...was eating lunch, looking out the window in the kitchen just a half hour ago, some skater going by darn near broke his neck swiveling his head around to look at her parked at the curb. George Chang wrote: > Pete writes... > > >Back in 1979, when I was too young to drive, a guy who worked for my Dad > >picked up a former Oregon State Police 74 Plymouth Fury at an auction for > >$400. 440 plant, cop tires, cop brakes, cop suspension, all cop car.... > > Hi Pete, > > Wow, Pete!! I wish that they were selling for that in > California! That same year (1979), I tried to pick one up at a local > auction. They were selling 4 of them, and they all went for between > $2000 and $3000. I had a small kids (including "SpinOut" and > "TrannyBoiler") at the time, and I couldn't afford that kind of money. > > I ended up with a 350 Chevvy Chevelle for $450. That car had > a lot of zip, but it also had a lot of problems... 8-( > > CopCar George > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Commander in Chief, WWII Aviation Legacy H.Q., San Jose, CA Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. R.I.P. Maybelle, '68 Fury III. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gambit at typhoon-casualties.com Sat Mar 9 16:46:29 2002 From: gambit at typhoon-casualties.com (Matthew Gilmour) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: An early sign of spring.. Message-ID: <001201c1c7bc$4115a080$7b01a8c0@on.aibn.com> On my way into work this morning I was passed by the General Lee. Not THE General Lee, of course, but a very nice clone none-the-less. A good sign spring is in the air? :) I hope so! Other Mopar news: I swapped in a K&N Air filter (OEM replacement type) into my Neon just this past Monday. I can honestly say I can feel a difference. It seems like it has more low-end grunt. Still working on the first tank of gas, so no idea about fuel economy yet. Anyone else had good results? I'm also looking to upgrade my throttle body to a 52 mm automatic in the near future, so that should also help torque & hp. Matthew 1965 Dodge Polara - 1971 Dodge Challenger R/T 1986 Dodge Ram - 1997 Dodge Neon Sport http://typhoon-casualties.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mikeh at satx.rr.com Sat Mar 9 18:11:00 2002 From: mikeh at satx.rr.com (Mike Harriman) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Front end work Message-ID: <000601c1c7c8$1275a110$0300a8c0@burner> Hi All, I'm in the middle of rebuilding the front end of my 72 charger. I am replacing all the bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, torsion bars, sway bars, and idler arm. I am also installing a new steering gear box. A friend who is helping with the work asked me why I am not replacing the Pitman Arm also. I don't have an answer, should I be replacing the pitman arm? The kits that I have seen available don't include pitman arms and none of the local parts houses in town carry them. I am doing all this work to fresh-in up the handling on the car, there was nothing really wrong, it was just sloppy and a lot of the bushings had rotted away. DO I need to replace the pitman arm? I can special order one and get it in a few days, or is the original arm probably OK to keep using. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks Mike To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Sat Mar 9 21:00:58 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: 7 1/4 Rear end question,,,,,,,,, Message-ID: <005001c1c7df$cf0aa3e0$7192fea9@computer> I just discovered a greasy set of brake shoes on the rear of my 68 Dart. Have pulled the axle and purchased a new seal, but need some advice on the bearing: should I replace it? This is a slant 6/AT and will be a very light duty in town car only. I will probably not keep the car too long either. The bearing SEEMS OK to me, there is very very little play side to side, and seemingly none in the up and down mode. It turns without any roughness. Is it possible for the seal to just dry/wear out and that the bearing would be OK to reinstall. PS: there is a retainer ring on the inside of the bearing, and I understand that the bearing must be pressed off to install the new seal, but can this retainer be reused, are they available without the bearing? Thanks, George in Tallahassee To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2g95c at verizon.net Sat Mar 9 21:24:47 2002 From: vze2g95c at verizon.net (Tom Showers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: 7 1/4 Rear end question,,,,,,,,, Message-ID: <012801c1c7e3$222c0b60$7a752c81@ed> > I just discovered a greasy set of brake shoes on the rear of my 68 Dart. > Have pulled the axle and purchased a new seal, but need some advice on the > bearing: should I replace it? This is a slant 6/AT and will be a very light > duty in town car only. I will probably not keep the car too long either. The > bearing SEEMS OK to me, there is very very little play side to side, and > seemingly none in the up and down mode. It turns without any roughness. Is > it possible for the seal to just dry/wear out and that the bearing would be > OK to reinstall. PS: there is a retainer ring on the inside of the bearing, > and I understand that the bearing must be pressed off to install the new > seal, but can this retainer be reused, are they available without the > bearing? Depending on what leaked onto the brake shoes (gear oil or wheel bearing grease), it might advantageous to switch to the 'green bearing' setup. Often times, the outer most seal cuts a groove in the axle, and a new seal will still leak. The Green bearing solves this by using a sealed bearing and sometimes an outer O-ring to eliminate the need for either the original outer seal and the inner axle tube seal. The outer bearing retainer is a press fit, and should be cut off with a dremel or cutoff wheel, or drilled and split, then press the old bearing off. The new bearing and retainer should be pressed on separately. The green bearing eliminates the need for a right side endplay adjuster, so you'd need to do both sides. It's also a ball bearing as opposed to the old tapered roller, so it won't be adequate for serious cornering loads, but will do just fine in normal use. Tom Showers 70 Roadrunner 500 inch Wedge 31 Plymouth 2DR sedan rod project 89 Lebaron drag car project To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mkvien at wiktel.com Sat Mar 9 22:01:06 2002 From: mkvien at wiktel.com (Matthew Kvien) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Need grill and tail R/T emblems for 68 Coronet Message-ID: Well I can tell you a little about the emblems I need, but not a lot. The grill one is like 6.5" across and has long pins that go through the mesh of the grill to attach. The rear one has a convex rear side, so it fits against the concave (dished) rear finish panel between the tail lights. It is attached by 2 prongs that I believe are melted once they are inserted through the rear panel. That's about all I know. Matt -----Original Message----- From: paulholm [mailto:paulholm@ameritech.net] Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 4:38 PM To: Matthew Kvien Subject: Re: Need grill and tail R/T emblems for 68 Coronet Matthew Kvien wrote: > > I have all of the correct exterior R/T parts for finishing the cloning of my > 68 Coronet 440, but am short these 2 badges. Can anybody help without > putting me in the poor house? Condition doesn't really matter as I can just > repaint them, the car is a driver and a clone remember. I hate to buy them > NOS from Mitchell on Ebay, but I may have to. I have a good amount of parts > to trade if there is interest, otherwise I can pay cash for them. Lots of > PW and seat motors and the like, and many other parts from 60s-70s C-bodies > mostly. > > Thanks, > Matt > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > Wish I knew the size of the ones you want. Number 2 son bought 2 smaller R/T emblems for his 70 Newport Sedan R/T and only used one. He got them for a fair price at the swaps a few years ago. -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mapleafs at pacbell.net Sat Mar 9 22:36:12 2002 From: mapleafs at pacbell.net (Tom&Kate) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: San Diego MMLers Message-ID: <001c01c1c7ed$1be8c220$6501a8c0@oemcomputer> Are there any kind San Diego MMLers that would be willing to check out a 1977 Dodge short box step side truck for me. If I buy it, I would be willing to pay a little something for your time. please e-mail me direct, as I am in digest mode. thanks TomR (sold) 73 Cuda 340 96 Viper RT/10 99 Durango 2x4 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Sat Mar 9 22:39:59 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Parts Needed 1965 Coronet Message-ID: nope, 2 totally different body styles. >From: Dan Robinson >Reply-To: Dan Robinson >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: Re: Parts Needed 1965 Coronet >Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 11:37:15 -0600 > >If a 66 Coronet 2 door front end will work I know where one is. I have a >picture if you want to see it. > >Dan > >Chris North wrote: >> >> Sorry to mention that I am in Houston, TX. Oh, the "front-ended" occured >> by the guy ahead of me putting it in reverse and gunning it. Odd, but true. >> >> > >> >It is with a heavy heart that I make this plea. I was just "front-ended" >> in my 1965 Coronet 440 4dr and I need the following parts >> > >> >Hood >> >Grill (middle section only) >> >Lower Valance >> >Whatever that upper piece is called that the hood latches to. It runs >> from inner fender to inner fender. >> > >> >Any leads would be appreciated. >> > >> >Thanks, >> > >> chris north > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Sat Mar 9 23:06:01 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (daty rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: An early sign of spring.. Message-ID: <029401c1c7f1$4611c520$7785ed0c@attbi.com> I K&N'ed my Cruiser, a noticeable difference 0-20 for the better, but mpg did not change. It was still worth it imho... -Daty > Other Mopar news: I swapped in a K&N Air filter (OEM replacement type) into > my Neon just this past Monday. I can honestly say I can feel a difference. > It seems like it has more low-end grunt. Still working on the first tank of > gas, so no idea about fuel economy yet. Anyone else had good results? I'm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sun Mar 10 03:27:32 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Edelbrock BB Heads update Message-ID: <3C8B2704.69677891@sedona.net> Jon, How about getting us weight on those heads before you put them on? Karl M. Jon wrote: > My Edelbrock aluminum heads arrived today... > > snip > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, now 14.29 @ 95.3 mph was 14.50 @ 95 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wilkie_steven at emc.com Sun Mar 10 07:51:54 2002 From: wilkie_steven at emc.com (wilkie, steven) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:33 2004 Subject: Coil Recomendations? Message-ID: <69C8DD8179FCD41187CC0003470E01960390781B@srstarr.lss.emc.com> I think I have to go with a performance coil on my 440. I'm not 100% sure that it's a fuel starvation problem around 5,500 rpms as opposed to a spark problem. I'm going to try and figure out what heat range I need to be in for a spark plug and buy them but does anyone know of a good performance coil? How is the Mopar ones. I thought I bought a mopar performance one but I don't think it's doing the trick. Wilks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Sun Mar 10 09:01:16 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Coil Recomendations? Message-ID: <003d01c1c844$6d988d10$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "wilkie, steven" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 6:51 AM Subject: Coil Recomendations? > I think I have to go with a performance coil on my 440. I'm not 100% sure > that it's a fuel starvation problem around 5,500 rpms as opposed to a spark > problem. I'm going to try and figure out what heat range I need to be in > for a spark plug and buy them but does anyone know of a good performance > coil? How is the Mopar ones. I thought I bought a mopar performance one > but I don't think it's doing the trick. > > Wilks Don't "throw" parts at your car. Determine the problem before you start replacing parts. Some vacuum gages have a fuel pressure function. Just plum one in and tape the gage to your windshield. Don't put he gage inside the car. Go on the highway and floor the accelerator and watch the fuel pressure. That will narrow down your search for the problem, and you may even get a free ticket:) If you don't have a vacuum gage, ask some friends if you can borrow one or try to find any low pressure gage. You may also want to check your plug wires. One easy way is to spray some water on them with the engine idling and see if the engine misfires. Use a fine spray, something like an old Windex bottle or flower sprayer. Don't use the garden hose. Spray the distributor cap and coil too. Safer if done with the engine warm, not hot. Watch out for the fan blade on a 440. If you have an Ohm meter you can also check for an open wire. Measure the resistance from the plug end to the cap. I remove the cap and check to the inside terminals. Saves you from pulling all the wires out of the cap and causing additional problems. Most resistance type spark plug wire is considered good if the resistance is 10,000 Ohms per foot or less. If you find a wire that reads way higher than the others replace it. Never pull on a plug wire, remove them by pushing up on the bottom of the plug boot. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dakranz at premier1.net Sun Mar 10 15:40:48 2002 From: dakranz at premier1.net (Dave Kranz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: small block pulleys Message-ID: <3C8BD2E0.EC29795B@premier1.net> I'm in the need of a two row crank pulley for a '77 360. Mine came with a four row (AC?) 7.5" diameter pulley. I want to put a smaller diameter pulley on so the alt and power steering pump don't spin up so fast. I shift a 6,000 rpm and have gone through a couple of alternators. The bearings go. Anyone have some pulleys laying around they want to turn into cash? Also would like a single row water pump pulley too. Thanks. Dave -- '66 Coronet 500 440 4 speed (project) '67 Coronet 500 383-2 727 (driver) '72 Scamp 360+++ 727 (sleeper) '72 Dart /6 904 (parts) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Sun Mar 10 17:34:07 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Quick advice on the 2.6 Mitsu engine..... Message-ID: <000401c1c88c$143cf380$7192fea9@computer> My friend lost power in his Dodge Mini Van and then it just quit completely. A check revealed that the cam was broken at the 2nd journal. The ridge on the head it galled. This was supposed to be a MCA Jet head, the one with 3 valves? but he sees only 2. Does this mean that this head is maybe off a 2.2 or 2.5, and most importantly, can he use another head (I have my doubts as they are Mopar) and can he somehow have the journal repaired and just replace the cam? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Sun Mar 10 17:36:23 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon Steiger) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Edelbrock BB Heads update Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020310183215.05481468@dakota-truck.net> At 02:27 AM 3/10/2002 -0700, you wrote: >Jon, > > How about getting us weight on those heads before you put them on? Can do! I just pulled a head out of the box and put it on a bathroom scale, and got exactly 30lbs. I don't know what the stock heads weigh since I haven't pulled them yet. I realize a bathroom scale isn't exactly the benchmark of precision, but I weighed a couple of dumbells of different weights on the scale also and it was pretty darn close. That 30lbs is the head itself with the valves and springs installed, but no rockers. -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From efrier at worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 10 18:15:14 2002 From: efrier at worldnet.att.net (James E. Frier) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Yet even more on POR-15 Message-ID: <006d01c1c891$d225f2c0$4848510c@madmax> Thanks Dave!!! After looking at the Zero Rust website and reading the testimonials, I think I'm sold on that Zero Rust. Especially after reading that POR-15 contains that icosyanide...icosnotzophene... that crap that kills people. >A less expensive, more user-friendly alternative to POR-15 is Zero Rust. >I've used both products with good results. >http://www.zerorust.com/ >drc James E. Frier 1976 Plymouth Fury 4-door Sedan Salon (Former Undercover Cop Car for the City of Pacifica, CA) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dariusz at mnsi.net Sun Mar 10 19:45:48 2002 From: dariusz at mnsi.net (Dariusz Piatkowski) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Ajusting Distributor Vacuum Advance Message-ID: <200203110145.g2B1jHe05674@e450.mnsi.net> Hey Don! If memory serves me right turning the screw clockwise will increase the amount of vacum signal needed to activate the pot - transaltion...you will get "less advance", even though that is not the correct way to describe what's happening. If you want to get better mileage assuming you don't already have too much advance you really should be aiming for the pot coming on sooner as opposed to later. I assume your engine is not pulling enough vacum at the moment to activate the pot right? If so you need to turn the screw counter-clockwise to decrease the pot diaphram tension. Hope this helps... On Sat, 09 Mar 2002 09:49:41 -0500, Don Gallimore wrote: >Can anyone tell me which way to turn to dashpot in my Mopar Performance >Electronic Conversion Distrbiutor to get less advance? Seems like I've got >too much vacuum advance. Need all the gas mileage I can get on this high >powered hot rod with the 4.10 gear. > >Akron Don - Dariusz 1980 Dodge Diplomat Coupe, 360-4bbl, 727, 3.91 SG motivated sleeper! (in-progress at present time) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.unipissing.ca Sun Mar 10 20:30:21 2002 From: andre at dns3.unipissing.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Quick advice on the 2.6 Mitsu engine..... Message-ID: <3C8C16BD.364F2C8E@dns3.unipissing.ca> Penick wrote: > > My friend lost power in his Dodge Mini Van and then it just quit completely. > A check revealed that the cam was broken at the 2nd journal. The ridge on > the head it galled. This was supposed to be a MCA Jet head, the one with 3 > valves? but he sees only 2. > I'm not sure that it is an MCA Jet thing. Didn't they have some sort of pre-chamber on them? I thought they were dropped a long time ago, like sometime in the seventies. I could be wrong on that. > Does this mean that this head is maybe off a 2.2 > or 2.5, and most importantly, > No, the 2.6 and the 2.2/2.5 are completely different engines. Nothing interchanges. > can he use another head (I have my doubts as > they are Mopar) and can he somehow have the journal repaired and just > replace the cam? > Well, aything's possible. Those engines are expen$ive to fix, from what I hear. it might be worth it. Parts availability for them can also be a problem. I can't even remember when they were last offered in minivans. (Were they ever?) If it's that old, it may be time to say good-bye to the van and look for something else rather than put that much into the engine. -- Andre -- Honk if you hate noise pollution To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Sun Mar 10 21:03:50 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Barracuda Motorsports??????? Message-ID: <005a01c1c8a9$5fa101a0$7192fea9@computer> The WEB site is still out of commission. I liked their auto decoder, any ideas where I can plug in ny VIN somewhere else? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Sun Mar 10 21:40:49 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Bad planning Message-ID: <3C8BD2E1.31997.822183D@localhost> I learned a good lesson today. I had two mopar short blocks out in front of the shop, about 8 feet from the shop door, sort of in the middle of the driveway, soaking in transmission oil trying to loosen the stuck pistons. They were covered with a bright blue tarp, so I figured everyone could see them. My brother comes over and hangs out, parks in front of the garage about 15 feet from the motors. You guessed it, he forgot they were there and drove his 1993 jeep grand cherokee right over the two block (340 and 383). Didn't hurt the blocks at all, but it did take a chunk out of his transfer case and put a deep non-leaking gouge in the gas tank. The transfer case is leaking pretty good. Looks like he will have to replace the case or get it welded. He said he tried to put the brakes on but the vehicle would not stop. I figure that all four wheel must have been off the ground and that is why it would not stop. I guess I will put any outside motors much closer to the shop in the future. Have a great day! Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RealTimeEngineering.com Greg@RealTimeEngineering.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sun Mar 10 22:21:51 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Bad planning Message-ID: <3C8C30DF.223B50EB@earthlink.net> Y'know, you're going about that V8 Jeep transplant aaaaall wrong...generally you go in through the hood or up from below...*GRIN* Bummer for your brother, though...I know I'd be upset... - A.J. Greg Garner wrote: > I learned a good lesson today. I had two mopar short blocks out in > front of the shop, about 8 feet from the shop door, sort of in the > middle of the driveway, soaking in transmission oil trying to loosen > the stuck pistons. They were covered with a bright blue tarp, so I > figured everyone could see them. My brother comes over and hangs > out, parks in front of the garage about 15 feet from the motors. You > guessed it, he forgot they were there and drove his 1993 jeep grand > cherokee right over the two block (340 and 383). Didn't hurt the > blocks at all, but it did take a chunk out of his transfer case and put > a deep non-leaking gouge in the gas tank. The transfer case is > leaking pretty good. Looks like he will have to replace the case or > get it welded. He said he tried to put the brakes on but the vehicle > would not stop. I figure that all four wheel must have been off the > ground and that is why it would not stop. I guess I will put any > outside motors much closer to the shop in the future. Have a great > day! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From LeeD383 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 10 21:13:21 2002 From: LeeD383 at yahoo.com (Lee D.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Gas tank question Message-ID: <3C8C20D1.E98DDE5@yahoo.com> Stu, Mopar Muscle just had an article on something else in their magazine, in which a small part showed them getting a new tank from The Paddock. They prepped the tank with Eastwood's PRE (like lacquer thinner) and painted it with Eastwood's Tank Tone containing Zinc. Looked nice and I plan to do this with my tank also. Lee ------------------------------ Message Number: 2 Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:54:29 EST From: MidPenMopar@aol.com Subject: Gas tank question I just got my gas tank for the 70 roadrunner today from Year One. Does it need to be prepped first? or can it go right on? I mean the outside of the tank, like a primer and paint or is the plain galvanized finish fine? i mean what would the factory have sent it out looking like? Stu California. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rtzone at 440magnum.org Sun Mar 10 22:16:09 2002 From: rtzone at 440magnum.org (440magnum Network) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Barracuda Motorsports??????? Message-ID: <00e501c1c8b3$792cb9c0$657ba8c0@440net> The Barracuda Motorsports site moved to: http://www.barracuda.tv Rick Ring Assistant Moparwebring.org http://www.moparwebring.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jeb at fsj.net Sun Mar 10 22:30:13 2002 From: jeb at fsj.net (Jason Bodo) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: car wanted Message-ID: <002601c1c8b5$74da8bc0$6b34f4cc@oemcomputer> Hello. I am looking for a '68 or '69 Sport Satellite, GTX, or Road Runner for sale with little or no rust. It does not have to have a drive train. I am really just looking for a good body for a restoration. If anyone knows of one for a reasonable price let me know. P.S. Not too far East or South as I am in B.C . Canada. Thanks for any info. Jason To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From visible at noisebox.cypherpunks.to Mon Mar 11 00:19:05 2002 From: visible at noisebox.cypherpunks.to (Force Adept) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Edelbrock BB Heads update Message-ID: On Sun, 10 Mar 2002, Jon Steiger wrote: > At 02:27 AM 3/10/2002 -0700, you wrote: > >Jon, > > > > How about getting us weight on those heads before you put them on? > > > Can do! > > I just pulled a head out of the box and put it on a bathroom scale, and > got exactly 30lbs. I don't know what the stock heads weigh since I haven't > pulled them yet. I realize a bathroom scale isn't exactly the benchmark of > precision, but I weighed a couple of dumbells of different weights on the > scale also and it was pretty darn close. > > That 30lbs is the head itself with the valves and springs installed, > but no rockers. Wow! I dunno how BB mopar heads compare to the Cadillac 472 heads, (which are the only V8 ones I've ever pulled) but that's darn light! Can you weigh the stockers when you get them pulled? I'm really curious to see how they compare. -Ogre To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SouthernGypsy at att.net Mon Mar 11 01:19:52 2002 From: SouthernGypsy at att.net (SouthernGypsy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Looking for new Project vehicle Message-ID: <000801c1c8cd$24b66a70$e8e25d0c@compaq> We're looking for a new project, preferably in decant shape and able to drive home with little or no rust... Would consider a non-running or missing engine car, but it must be reasonably close to us (a days drive from Little Rock, Arkansas) and priced right... Actually it has to be priced right in any case, but you know what I mean :) Engine size is not important as long as it *IS* a V8 car. Will be looking to pick-up within the next 45 days if we find the right car at the right price. No total basket cases. Prefered models (in order or preferace) are; 1971 Plymouth Barracuda or 'Cuda 1970 Dodge Challenger 1968-1969 Dodge Charger 1968-1970 Plymouth GTX or Road Runner (70 Prefered) 1967-1969 Plymouth Barracuda (Notchback Prefered) 1971-1972 Dodge Dart Swinger 1967 Plymouth GTX 1970 Dodge Coronet 1970 Dodge Demon If you have one for sale or know of one for sale, please let me know. Southerngypsy@att.net To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From WOLFORDJ at isecfdeo-emh1.army.mil Mon Mar 11 08:24:16 2002 From: WOLFORDJ at isecfdeo-emh1.army.mil (Wolford, Jeffrey G.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Advice Sought: Car won't pass emissions Message-ID: I have a 1990 Voyager with the 3.0 and accumulated 106,000 miles. The engine smokes at idle and fail the emissions test twice of NOx emissions. According the Maryland Vehicle Emissions Representative, the most common cause for the high NOx emissions and most likely cause is excessive carbon build up. The state says I can continually bring the car back at about one month interviews and $14.00 per test until it passes. Is this engine worth repairing? Or should I just pay for retests until I retire the car? J. Gregg Wolford USA ISEC-FDEO 1435 Porter Street, Suite 200 Fort Detrick, MD 21702-5407 Voice (301) 619-6587 DSN 343-6587 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Mon Mar 11 08:32:54 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: parts washers Message-ID: <000701c1c909$a323b700$902c1342@laptop> I came across a supplier for parts washers and parts/accessories. http://www.kleer-flo.com/index.html Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Mon Mar 11 08:35:46 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Alternative to powder coating Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B28D0@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> I used POR15 on a set of 340 manifolds (for sale). They came out great. Also used it on my undercarriage, also came out great. Keep it in the fridge! "smokin" Joe 71 340 Challenger R/T (411HP on pump gas!) 2001 RAM Off Road 91 Harley Low Rider borg@att.com / jborg@exchange.ml.com -----Original Message----- From: James E. Frier [mailto:efrier@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:53 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Alternative to powder coating Has anyone ever tried Por-15? I haven't but my neighbor, who is a jet mechanic, says they use Por-15 on the big jets. He used it on one of his Harley Motorcycles and he says this stuff is great! http://www.por-15.com/ You can get a free catalog by mail. I think I might use it on my intake manifold, valve covers, and oil pan. They have Mopar colors. You can brush this stuff on or you can thin it and spray it on. I figure, with the money I save on having those parts and some brackets powercoated ($500) I could buy a decent compressor and paint gun. James E. Frier 1976 Plymouth Fury 4-door Sedan Salon (Former Undercover Cop Car for the City of Pacifica, CA) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Mon Mar 11 08:58:37 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Various black hockey stripe colors? Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B28D5@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> I believe the matte was from the factory. Only problem is you cant get wax on it or it turns white. I used the gloss on mine. "smokin" Joe 71 340 Challenger R/T (411HP on pump gas!) 2001 RAM Off Road 91 Harley Low Rider borg@att.com / jborg@exchange.ml.com -----Original Message----- From: wilkie, steven [mailto:wilkie_steven@emc.com] Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 12:32 PM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Various black hockey stripe colors? I wanted to place an order for the 440 numbers in Black so I could remove the current 383 numbers from Performace Graphic (thanks to a few MML'er tips) and they asked me if I wanted 1.) Reflective 2.) Gloss or 3.) textured matte black? Darn I didn't realize there was a choice. Thank god they are sending samples for me to figure it out but were all these offered on the '70 Cuda Plum Crazy or where they for a variety of cars? I hope I'll be able to tell once I get the samples or I guess get as close as possible. Nothing is straight forward....gotta love the little things.... Wilks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Mon Mar 11 08:58:48 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Advice Sought: Car won't pass emissions Message-ID: <006801c1c90d$4038d9f0$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wolford, Jeffrey G." To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 7:24 AM Subject: Advice Sought: Car won't pass emissions > I have a 1990 Voyager with the 3.0 and accumulated 106,000 miles. The > engine smokes at idle and fail the emissions test twice of NOx emissions. > According the Maryland Vehicle Emissions Representative, the most common > cause for the high NOx emissions and most likely cause is excessive carbon > build up. > > The state says I can continually bring the car back at about one month > interviews and $14.00 per test until it passes. Is this engine worth > repairing? > > Or should I just pay for retests until I retire the car? > > J. Gregg Wolford Take the car to a competent repair shop and have them look it over. Then make your decision. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Mon Mar 11 09:15:05 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Mopar Posi? Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A20000805FA7875A032B28D7@eat404.hew.us.ml.com> Sure Grip "smokin" Joe 71 340 Challenger R/T (411HP on pump gas!) 2001 RAM Off Road 91 Harley Low Rider borg@att.com / jborg@exchange.ml.com -----Original Message----- From: Dave Cullen [mailto:david.cullen@snet.net] Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 8:35 AM To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Subject: Mopar Posi? Everybody uses the term "Posi" to refer to a locking differential, even tho Positraction is a Chebby term. What is the correct Mopar term for them? drc To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jborg at exchange.ml.com Mon Mar 11 09:20:58 2002 From: jborg at exchange.ml.com (Borg, Josef A. (SOM400A)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:24:34 2004 Subject: Front end work Message-ID: <19B572CFAC42D211A