From larsne at ida.net Sat Jun 1 00:14:29 2002 From: larsne at ida.net (Lawrence Elkin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Need bolt for Emission hole in head by number 7 cyl of a 78 360 cid motor. Message-ID: <3CF85835.000001.91191@q1d7q7> -------Original Message------- I have a 78 smog 360 with headers. The car has an exhaust leak by the number 7 cyl (pull the spark plug wire and the exhaust leak stops). I have been trying to find a way to plug the hole. Chrysler says the hole is only for California vehicles. And there is no way to "plug" the hole. I need to replace the heads. But, I have been told otherwise. Has anyone run across this problem? How do I correct it? I will eventually replace the motor, so I don't want to spend a lot. If you mean the air injector holes.... What I did was ream it to remove the carbon, tap it and inserted a bolt with the head cut off (which I had slotted on top like a screw and plugged them off. I am running 65 273 exhaust manifolds and stock 273 exhaust on my 360 powered 66 Barracuda. (It is like sh*tting though a cocktail straw) however I am getting some spitfire headers in a few weeks. Lars To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SouthernGypsy at att.net Sat Jun 1 00:19:55 2002 From: SouthernGypsy at att.net (SouthernGypsy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Durango Downer Message-ID: <000501c2092b$f84af1a0$d9e25d0c@compaq> If you'll check, I think the Jeep Cherokees and GC's use the same size or just slightly larger ones (simple drill to slightly enlarge the holes) and are a stiff aluminum or metal. Probably cheaper than having a machine shop fabricate them... > Got out to check the roof rack and it had ripped the mounts apart. The > stinking roof rack mounts are plastic! They replaced them for free, but > I > thought this had to be as cheesy as anything Mother Mopar has done. > I'm planning to get a steel or anodized aluminum set made from the > plastic > wonders by a competent machine shop. Sheesh! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at aol.com Sat Jun 1 00:22:39 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at aol.com (Ms68mopar1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: 91 Jeep Wrangler for Sale / daewoo? Message-ID: GM bought the Korean corporation but not the American Corp. so they filed bankrupcty. My Mr. "Ford" husband was their national service mgr. No more vechiles or support will be coming from the factory, some parts are still available but who knows what and for how long. Ms. Mopar (Yvonne) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at aol.com Sat Jun 1 00:26:39 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at aol.com (Ms68mopar1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Chrome Plating of plastic Message-ID: chrome plating of plastic. I got my 68 roadrunner plastic dash bezel chrome plated for about 80.00 and my 67 Cuda arm rest backs done for about 75.00 the guy is in Orange County California and does a GREAT job worth the price of the mailing. If you want his name and phone and address just email me. Ms. Mopar (YVonne) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From T3lightbronze at aol.com Sat Jun 1 04:47:37 2002 From: T3lightbronze at aol.com (T3lightbronze@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Big block rear main seal- help! Message-ID: <3f.c42f3d7.2a29f239@aol.com> Hello I just started up the "new" 400 in my '71 wagon.While I had it apart I replaced the rear main seal just to be safe. I used a Fel-Pro rubber lip seal, little bit of sealer on the ends, doubble checked the direction it was facing, pre-oiled it so it wouldn'r burn @ startup, slid in the side seals, etc. (The old seal that I removed on the stand was a rope seal.) Now after only a mile of driving it seems I have a good leak, nice clean oil on the bottom of the bellhousing, telltale stain at the trans/block parting line. The service manual for '71 says to oil the side seals as they expand in the presence of oil, which is something I forgot to do. Didn't know if that applied to aftermarket ones or not. Will it take up & stop leaking if it is the side seal? Should I replace it w/ a rope seal? Morgan Billingslea '69 Charger '72 Demon '71 Fury Custom Suburban 383-9passenger. '74 Duster '85 CJ-7 (Stephanie's Mopar-for now) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From moparman340 at hotmail.com Sat Jun 1 05:45:30 2002 From: moparman340 at hotmail.com (Bill Dedman) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Dreamlot's "Grand Opening" was just that; GRAND!!! :) Message-ID: My wife and I made the short haul from Hayward to Mountain View to look over the facilities at Dreamlot, and to say we were not disappointed would be to severely understate the case. This place is a Hot Rodder's HEAVEN! Number one, the facility is easy to find, and without a doubt, the most PRISTINE, surgically-clean garage I have ever seen. It's very well-appointed and seemed to have everything you'd need to do a complete restoration of any Mopar. Ben greeted us at the gate, and was a most gracious host throughout the evening, providing some great music, wonderful food, and constant stream of awesome machinery; everything from Cobras and a V-12 Ferrari to a Hemi Cuda convertible and the nastiest-sounding Charger I believe I've ever heard. I got to meet Tony Puig and A.J. (the wingnut) and found them both to be both amiable and knowledgeable. Oh yes; how he arranged it, I'll never know, but there was a flyover during mid-ceremonies, by a bevy of World War II vintage bombers, and it was SO NICE of A.J. to identify them. Among them was a B-17 that he said he'd flown on. I've never been to a grand opening with so MUCH to enjoy!!! If you're ever in San Francisco's South Bay area (Mountain View), you owe it to yourself to drive over and see this marvelous facility; it's truly awesome! I'd like to thank Ben for the most enjoyable evening, but mostly, for providing us with such an impressive facility to use to improve our vehicles; it's truly BOSS! And, I'm not easily impressed. Ben has proved, once again, that he's a class act. Don't miss this "dream" garage!!! _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sat Jun 1 06:26:56 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Need bolt for Emission hole in head by number 7 cyl of a 78 360 cid motor. Message-ID: <3CF8AF80.8124C960@sedona.net> If you are talking about a small hole just below the main port those are referred to as the air injection holes. Just drill and tap it for a standard size and screw in a set screw. But you might just have a burned header gasket. As for 318 manifolds........ check the port size. With the non-magnum LA engines the 360 ports are a bit larger than the 318 ports. So why would you want to use a 318 manifold as they cause a lot of turbulance right at the port and therefore restriction. But if the magnum manifolds have the same size ports why not. However the magnum manifolds may not cover the air injection holes. Non-magnum 360 manifolds are rather plentiful. Karl M. "Bobandsue@mcleodusa.net" wrote: > I have a 78 smog 360 with headers. The car has an exhaust leak by the > number 7 cyl (pull the spark plug wire and the exhaust leak stops). I > have been trying to find a way to plug the hole. Chrysler says the hole > is only for California vehicles. And there is no way to "plug" the > hole. I need to replace the heads. > > But, I have been told otherwise. > > Has anyone run across this problem? How do I correct it? > > I will eventually replace the motor, so I don't want to spend a lot. > > Also, I have a set of 1998 318 exhaust manifolds I want to use on the > 360. I have been told they should fit. Has anyone done this? Is it a > simple swap? > > > > Bob Alexander > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sat Jun 1 06:55:36 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Slow battery drain Message-ID: <3CF8B637.9EA29E9E@sedona.net> What kind of test equipment do you have available? A voltmeter will work, however an ammeter is preferred but it needs to go to at least 10 amps. First is to check the glove box light and the trunk light (if equipped). If you can't find anything definitive there then connect the ammeter or voltmeter between one of the battery posts and it's terminal. Pull fuses until the meter reads zero. Now this is why the ammeter is preferred: if you have an after market stereo it will probably have a wire for the clock / memory that is connected to a battery hot circuit. This will draw current all the time. It's a VERY small amount but since a voltmeter is a high impedance (resistance) device it will still show a voltage with this wire connected and it would be hard to tell the difference between this kind of a load and a light bulb. But the ammeter being a low impedance device it probably will show zero or very near to zero (maybe 50 mA) depending on the resolution of your meter. This shouldn't run a battery down for weeks. Hope this helps. Karl M. Acuda4me@aol.com wrote: > Hello All - > > My '67 Valiant [free nannymobile!!] has a drain somewhere in the electrical > system. I would appreciate any tips/tricks that anyone has come up with to > eliminate circuits and narrow down the problem. > > Thanks, > > Jeff Voth -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sat Jun 1 07:11:27 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Spark Plugs, Headers, Carter AVS and Racing a 440 Message-ID: <3CF8B9EF.3095EE96@sedona.net> Bill, First...... replace the AVS with a Holley 3310 (750 cfm, vacuum secondaries). the AVS is a decent carb for a 383 or smaller engine but not for a 440 (especially one with a cam). The AVS is an emission carb and won't move enough cfm for a big engine like that. As for plugs, I prefer regular Autolite or Motorcraft non resistor plugs. I've been running these in my Mopars for over 25 years with good results. I usually start with an A42 or equivalent. If you have an engine that is running really clean A32 plugs might be better. Also what is your manifold vacuum at idle? And check your initial timing. I'll bet you just fouled a plug. But it dosen't hurt to check the wires. Karl M. Bill Johnson wrote: > Got everything adjusted and working well on my 69 RR and after a few short > runs it has developed a miss on the right side. I am using Autolite > Platinum's and suspect one of the plugs has gone bad already. This car has a > 440 built for racing however I do not have the particulars. Long story but > actually is how I got the car by paying off the motor work bill. The carb > seems to run quite rich and adjusting it doesn't seem to help. It has > headers so there is also a lot of heat. Wires are fine and new, Mopar > electronic ignition is new so I need some advice on plugs and tuning the AVS > to lean it. Any recommendations for jets in the carb and what plugs are good > for 1/8th and 1/4 mile racing? Something that will take the heat from the > headers as well. I can't wait to get everything done with the bodywork so I > can get some actually times down. All I know is it is fast!! > > Thanks for any advice! > > Whiteshoes > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sat Jun 1 07:32:49 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Performer RPM on a 440 Message-ID: <3CF8BEF1.633F85B9@sedona.net> I did the clay test yesterday on my Satellite. Right now it has a flat hood on it. A Performer RPM with a Holley on a 440 won't fit under the hood unless you have a very low profile air cleaner. I'm running a drop base now with I think a 3" tall element. A shorter element would probably cause the air cleaner top to hit the carb. I have approx 1 3/8" of clearance above the top of the wing nut. I've got a stock iron intake on the 440 now. A Performer RPM is approx 2" taller than the iron intake at the carb and a Performer is approx 3/4" - 7/8" taller. So I guess I'll start looking for a Performer. Don't know if the RR / GTX hoods have any more clearance. Karl M. -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Sat Jun 1 08:37:15 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Slow battery drain Message-ID: <002401c20971$71af1810$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 4:15 PM Subject: Slow battery drain > Hello All - > > My '67 Valiant [free nannymobile!!] has a drain somewhere in the electrical > system. I would appreciate any tips/tricks that anyone has come up with to > eliminate circuits and narrow down the problem. > > Thanks, > > > Jeff Voth Jeff, Make yourself a tester out of a small 12 volt lamp and a clip lead. Cut the clip lead in half and solder the lamp in. Any dash lamp will work. If you can't solder use a "push in" lamp and just wrap the wires to the little contacts. Start by disconnecting the positive battery terminal and putting the test lamp between the post on the battery and the cable end. If you have a drain the lamp will light up or at least glow a little. Then start pulling fuses. After you pull a fuse look at the lamp. When it goes out you found the circuit that's drawing current. Then re-connect the battery and put your test lamp where the fuse was and keep on looking for the problem. If you pull all the fuses and you still have a glow, disconnect the alternator and other non-fused circuits. Usually it's not a short to ground or wires would burn. If you have an add on stereo amp or replacement radio start there. Then check all courtesy lamps, trunk, glove box, under hood, etc. Let us know what you find. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Sat Jun 1 08:46:35 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:12 2004 Subject: Big block rear main seal- help! Message-ID: <003a01c20972$bf5d9c20$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 2:47 AM Subject: Big block rear main seal- help! > Hello > I just started up the "new" 400 in my '71 wagon.While I had it apart I > replaced the rear main seal just to be safe. I used a Fel-Pro rubber lip > seal, little bit of sealer on the ends, doubble checked the direction it was > facing, pre-oiled it so it wouldn'r burn @ startup, slid in the side seals, > etc. (The old seal that I removed on the stand was a rope seal.) Now after > only a mile of driving it seems I have a good leak, nice clean oil on the > bottom of the bellhousing, telltale stain at the trans/block parting line. > The service manual for '71 says to oil the side seals as they expand in the > presence of oil, which is something I forgot to do. Didn't know if that > applied to aftermarket ones or not. Will it take up & stop leaking if it is > the side seal? Should I replace it w/ a rope seal? > > > Morgan Billingslea Man I feel for you. Any one that works on cars runs into a problem like this once and a while. I'm guessing you did something wrong and it may just be the pan gasket. Unfortunately you are going to have to just pull the pan and start looking. Rope seals work very well, but they "drag" more than lip seals. After you find the problem you can decide the best way to eliminate it. Before you start removing the pan look at the rear of the engine see if any oil is trickling down from the top. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jdf at forinash.net Sat Jun 1 08:51:08 2002 From: jdf at forinash.net (J.D. Forinash) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Strange questions on new Dakotas... Message-ID: <20020601095108.A6091@xyzzy.forinash.net> On Fri, May 31, 2002 at 06:29:03PM -0400, Matt Selwa wrote: > If I was going to get another R/T I think I would buy a 4.7L 5 speed and > pickup the wheels, drop the suspension, and add some 4.7 Dakota R/T graphics > that look just like the stock 5.9 ones. Heh. In my case, I've been considering getting my hands on some stock Dakota wheels to trade the R/T in on and keep the 17x9s for the new one. Though the new Dakota comes on 16x8 wheels stock. (Rams sport 17x8s for the base model! When did things like this happen?!) > P.S. You are probably right about your Dakota being beat if you bought it > used. I bet it was one of the buy back trucks. (I sent my '99 RC R/T back > to Chrysler 2 years ago - and the tires got some good burnouts before hand:) Bought mine brand new; I know mine was abused because I was the one who did it. For a while, I had a Powerdyne supercharger on it, I took it off so I could autocross it in a stock class. :) This truck has _not_ had a pampered life... -- --J.D. Forinash (foxtrot@cc.gatech.edu) / '69 Coronet 440, yellow, 318 The more you learn, the better your / '70 Fury III 'vert, mostly white, 318 luck gets. / '99 Dakota R/T 14.845 @ 92.27 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hti at bigfoot.com Sat Jun 1 10:33:27 2002 From: hti at bigfoot.com (shooter) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Oil Sending Unit Message-ID: <3CF8E947.7080609@bigfoot.com> Any suggestions for an electrical sending unit for a 70 Challenger 440 that is smaller than the stock "bell" design. I am running a mechanical with the electrical but with the "T" adapter the bell type is too fat to clear the block and there is not enough room between the engine and firewall to point it somewhere else. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From srmckelvey at yahoo.com Sat Jun 1 10:34:15 2002 From: srmckelvey at yahoo.com (Shane McKelvey) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: jeepers! Message-ID: <20020601153415.68270.qmail@web13904.mail.yahoo.com> I need the collective wisdom of the MML regarding Jeep Cherokees. The intention is to buy a 1990-ish Cherokee as a second car and I need to know what breaks on these... The engine will be the 4.0L six. I'd like a five speed but will consider the AT as well. The wife wants AC and power everything but I'm sure she will hand crank her windows if a low-price gem appears. Many Cherokees I've looked at have high miles on the engines, so they seem to last, but many AT vehicles seem to have had trans trouble. Is that a weak area? What about the rest of the drivetrain? Thanks in advance. Shane McKelvey Portland, OR __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tom at superbee.com Sat Jun 1 10:32:52 2002 From: tom at superbee.com (Tom Pettigrew) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Dreamlot's "Grand Opening" was just that; GRAND!!! :) Message-ID: > Ben greeted us at the gate, and was a most gracious host throughout the > evening, providing some great music, wonderful food, and constant stream of > awesome machinery; everything from Cobras and a V-12 Ferrari to a Hemi Cuda > convertible and the nastiest-sounding Charger I believe I've ever heard. If you mean the red 69 Charger. Thanks! ;-) That would actually be a 440 under there btw. > I'd like to thank Ben for the most enjoyable evening, but mostly, for > providing us with such an impressive facility to use to improve our > vehicles; it's truly BOSS! Agreed! Thanks for the great evening, Ben! Tom To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From itsah at earthlink.net Sat Jun 1 11:46:52 2002 From: itsah at earthlink.net (Steve Havens) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: low gear sets? Message-ID: <3CF8FA7C.97C30B03@earthlink.net> Ok this question has floated around off and on for years now on the MML Does anyone know for sure if the lock-up 727's of the late 70's - 80's had a low gear set like the lock-up 904's designated 999 or in other non-Mopar apps 998 Thanks in advance Steve To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ecksjay at attbi.com Sat Jun 1 12:22:37 2002 From: ecksjay at attbi.com (Phil) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: jeepers! (long) Message-ID: <01dc01c20990$ed5ed170$0100a8c0@pnwxj> Hi Shane! (see below) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shane McKelvey" > I need the collective wisdom of the MML regarding Jeep > Cherokees. The intention is to buy a 1990-ish Cherokee > as a second car and I need to know what breaks on > these... What breaks? Not much! Certainly in an aging model you'll look at normal wear like belt and hoses, but there are specifics to the AMC 6 to look for. First off, 91 and newer will have the High Output 4.0L available and is the year that Chrysler started making them. ;o) Certainly the 91 and newer would be the way to go, since it's really the best of the AMC and Mopar worlds. On the 4.0L a place to look on the engine is at the rear main seal, where they like to go out and drip the occasional oil drop onto the exhaust downpipe, making for a stinky time when stopping after a decent lengthed trip. If you're even remotely techinically inclined this is a simple replacement procedure...especially since it's a $6 part and at least $250 worth of labor at the dealer. ;o) Too simple: Drop the oil pan, remove the rear main bearing cap, loosen #2 bearing cap, and replace the 2-part seal. Reverse process and you're done. Takes some folks 2 hours and others 6. Depends on how often you like to take your rig apart, lol. Anyhow, another area to look at is the exhaust manifold. On the HO (91+) 4.0L they like to crack at the collector and sometimes up on the head itself. This can make for an increasingly loud experience and is usually cured by a replacement by putting on a header by Clifford, Borla, or Pacesetter. Another thing on the older XJ's is that some like to leak at the windshield...but that seems to have been fixed after 92 or so. ;o) On the topside, the valve covers like to leak also...which can sometimes fool you into thinking that your rear main is leaking. Another problem associated with older rigs is oil blowby into the oil filter, which comes from the PCV setup on the valve cover. A new one will fix this for a long time (or use one from a later model!). > The engine will be the 4.0L six. I'd like a five speed > but will consider the AT as well. The wife wants AC > and power everything but I'm sure she will hand crank > her windows if a low-price gem appears. Can't go wrong with the 4.0L. I've heard of folks running them 300,000 miles and have only changed the waterpump and MAYBE a starter. :o) Something to keep in mind is that on the older 4.0's you're looking at a closed cooling system versus the newer (by newer I mean 91+) open system. The older XJ's with 4.0L's can develop cooling problems...but that seems to be taken care of since Ma Mopar took over. ;o) As far as transmissions go, the Manual can be a bit tricky. Some earlier models used a Pugeout BA-10 (http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/trans/ba10.html) that liked to go out and do strange things. This was taken care of with the use of the AX-15 (http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/trans/ax15.html) that had been in the 89+ Jeep Wrangler YJ's. The AX-15 would be the better bet, but if you're not serious about off-road performance (ie: You're not going out with me on the weekends to tackle rocks) it should be fine...these are just points to think about. ;o) Now, the auto transmission used behind the 4.0L's is the ever-popular Aisin-Warner AW-4. This transmission is stout and will take a beating. It is computer controlled and uses solenoids to shift. It's a 4-speed w/ overdrive. These are closely related to the AW transmissions used in Toyota and Lexus cars and trucks. It's very stout and reliable. Pre-87 XJ's didn't have the 4.0L, so you won't get one of these transmissions with a 6-cyl. ;o) > Many Cherokees I've looked at have high miles on the > engines, so they seem to last, but many AT vehicles > seem to have had trans trouble. Is that a weak area? > What about the rest of the drivetrain? Thanks in > advance. Please see above. Unless those autos are abused (or on anything but a 4.0L) they are generally good. In the 3 years I've been involved with XJ Cherokees I've only heard of a couple of them going out...but those were on hardcore 4 wheeler rigs. As for the rest of the drivetrain you're in pretty good shape if you're not serious about putting the big tires on and "abusing" it off-road. The rear ends are not bad: Dana 35 (prone to breakage under hard use), Chrysler 8.25 (hey, they were in V8 cop cars, were they not?), and the ever-popular Dana 44 rear end (nice and strong, comparable to the Chrysler 8.25", but there are more accessories available). Braking systems improved in 95 with the addition of a more powerful brake booster, and whether you get 2wd or 4wd you get the same brakes. It's really not hard to convert a 2wd vehicle into a 4wd, since all you have to do (literally) is bolt parts on. Let's see, we've covered engine and transmission, as well as rears. That leaves us with the 4wd transer case! Ok, first up is the NP207 (New Process) used from 84-87 in the XJ. It's not the greatest, but it gets the job done. Should it break you'd be much better off bolting on (again, literally) a NP231 transfer case. The NP231 is very similar to the NP231HD that was used in fullsize Dodges and Grand Cherokees. ;o) This NP231 is the 2HI/4HI/N/4LO case and is easily identified externally on the Jeep as "Command Trac." Pretty stout, chain-driven case...you can get low-range kits for assistance in rock-crawling...but that doesn't seem to be your use, eh? ;o) Last but not least we have the NP242. This transfer case is also referred to as "Select Trac." It gives the same ranges as the NP231...but with the added option of FULLTIME 4wd! Pretty nice to have if you're going skiing on the weekends and don't want to be tossing the t-case into 4HI everytime you encounter slick roads. Throw the lever into fulltime 4wd and "fuggedaboutit." :o) Also not a bad transfer case...but again, accessories may not matter to ya since you're just looking for a second car. > Shane McKelvey > Portland, OR Shane! I see you're in Portland. I'm up in Kent, WA and I run a Jeep Cherokee group on Yahoo. Not a lot of e-mail goes through my list, but there are a number of folks who are proficient in different areas regarding XJ's, not just 4 wheeling. If you're interested in tech or just learning more about XJ's, I invite you to come check us out! Follow the link (http://www.pnwxj.com) and check us out. :o) If you want more e-mail and VERY technical discussion there's another "local" list to Madison Wisconsin (what mine is modeled after) at http://www.madxj.com . Of course being that it's local to WI you get all of their discussion about where they're camping, etc. We get discussion like that on my list, but at least it's local for you. :o) In all I'd say that the XJ is a very good vehicle for any application, as you seem to have figured out. There's a reason why it was the only Mopar to be pursuit qualified for Law Enforcement use for a long time. :o) I did my homework when I purchased my XJ in 98...and I came up with the 95 as being the best bet. Newer technology, fixed bugs (little things), and wide range of parts available. The 84-96 XJ's have MANY interchangeable body parts...whereas the 96+ had a facelift and thigns won't swap like they used to. For example: I have a wing-window, instrument bezel, and gas tank skidplate from an 86 XJ on my 95. If you bash a fender you can hit a wrecking yard an pick one off of an 84-96...same goes for doors and rear hatches...as well as glass. Just a huge list of bolt-on parts that will work. :o) Hope this helps you and PLEASE feel free to write with any questions you may have. Phil M. - Kent, WA 95 XJ Cherokee Sport 4.0L/Auto 6" lift, 33x12.50 BFG MT's Owner/Moderator PNWXJ http://www.pnwxj.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com Sat Jun 1 12:33:53 2002 From: Greg at RealTimeEngineering.com (Greg Garner) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Mopar car show/swap meet/drag race in Arkansas Message-ID: <3CF8BF31.12064.30C854A@localhost> I don't know if anyone is in Arkansas/Oklahoma/Kansas/Missouri on this list, but the ozark mopar club is hosting a mopar only car show, drag race, and swap meet at the Centerville dragstrip south of Russelvile Arkansas on Sunday. You can see more info on the ozark mopar web site: Saturday and Sunday, June 1st and 2nd Centerville Dragway South of Dardanell AR on Highway 154 Saturday night street legal drags, $10 entry $5 spectators Sunday Racing, mopar only Car show, and swap meet Gates open at 8:30 AM on Sunday. Judging starts at 10 AM Awards at 2 PM For more info call 479-444-8007 Centerville dragway number is 479-576-4001 www.centervilledragway.com See our web site at www.ozark_mopar_club.homestead.com Greg Garner Real Time Engineering 19352 Hilton Rd. Springdale, AR 72764 1-479-756-1148 1-479-871-1148 (cell) http://www.RT-Eng.com Greg@RT-Eng.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From roadhogg at shaw.ca Sat Jun 1 13:36:56 2002 From: roadhogg at shaw.ca (Brad Hogg) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Sluggish Power Steering Message-ID: <011601c2099b$509fdc70$6400a8c0@toshiba> I had a few suggestions to check the belt tension and condition. I hadn't said so but those were of course the two things that I checked first. I flushed the system with fresh PS fluid (it had had ATF in it at one point). It is much better now but it has still done the same thing a couple times. I can't help but think there is some contaminent in there that is holding a valve open or closed at the wrong time. I am going to try to flush it again to get rid of the remaining ATF so I'll see if that helps. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad Hogg" To: "Brad Hogg" Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 8:36 AM Subject: Sluggish Power Steering I've noticed something happening more and more, lately on my 78 Newport. This only happnes when I am going slow (parking lot maneuvering speed) and attempting to turn the wheel to the right. It's like I have no power steering at all. Sometimes it does it for a few seconds and then kicks in and returns to full power steering. Sometimes it doesn't and I have to man-handle the wheel to make the turn. Again, it has only ever happened when the engine is at idle and I am turning the wheel from straight ahead, to the right. It almost feels like there is a sticky valve or something. The fluid level is good and I don't see any huge leaks (just the usual Mopar steering box seepage) Can anyone lend any wisdom here? Thanks. Brad Hogg Winnipeg, Manitoba http://www.nybclub.org/bradhogg/index.htm 1978 Chrysler Newport 4-door Hard Top 1976 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham 4-door Hard Top 1976 Chrysler Town & COuntry 9 Passenger Station Wagon <--parts 1968 Chrysler Newport Custom 4-door Sedan To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SouthernGypsy at att.net Sat Jun 1 14:03:26 2002 From: SouthernGypsy at att.net (SouthernGypsy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: jeepers! (long) Message-ID: <000e01c2099f$0386a140$46e25d0c@compaq> Actually the Inline-6 4.0 first came available in '87 and the 4.0HO came available in '90 ... The first new Cherokee I ever bought was a '90 model 2 door Sport with the 4.0 HO loaded out with everything including off-road package and I'd custom ordered with the optional Dana 44's front and rear (known as the "Forestry Service" package back then) which I ran to 420,000 miles before selling it to a friend who still has it.... and it STILL run, looked, and drove like new and that was with some serious 4-wheeling. I think he now has over 550,000 on it but did finally pull the engine and replace the rings at around 495k ... There was virtually no sign of wear and it was as clean inside as any engine I've ever seen. I never ran anything but full-synthetic Castrol Syntec 5-50 oil and all my other fluids were synthetic also and he had continued the same way. > What breaks? Not much! Certainly in an aging model you'll look at normal > wear like belt and hoses, but there are specifics to the AMC 6 to look for. > First off, 91 and newer will have the High Output 4.0L available and is the > year that Chrysler started making them. ;o) Certainly the 91 and newer > would be the way to go, since it's really the best of the AMC and Mopar > worlds. On the 4.0L a place to look on the engine is at the rear main seal, To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com Sat Jun 1 15:03:09 2002 From: Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com (Tom Hunsaker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Lost e mails Message-ID: <3CF9287D.4050105@AutoTechUnlimited.com> Do to a brain fart when switching over to a new web browser, I lost all my bookmarks and e mail addresses. If Akron Don, Tom Stroup, Dave Goerlich ,Becca and any others who I correspond with personally could send me a blank e mail so I can get your addresses again it would be appreciated. Sorry to take up the bandwidth! -- Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker Springboro, Ohio 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bbodybarn at yahoo.com Sat Jun 1 18:03:13 2002 From: bbodybarn at yahoo.com (Jeff Brown) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Oil Sending Unit Message-ID: <20020601230313.42611.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> From: shooter > Any suggestions for an electrical sending unit for > a 70 Challenger 440 that is smaller than the stock > "bell" design. Check out chrysler part # 53030493. I had jotted that down in my 'to buy' list. Its an idiot light/ guage sending unit combo that was smaller than the old guage sending unit. Jeff __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From neil at ndperformance.com Sat Jun 1 18:15:08 2002 From: neil at ndperformance.com (Neil Emiro) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: FS: 86 Shelby GLHS Message-ID: <3CF9011C.6049.3E4EC17@localhost> For Sale: 1986 Shelby GLHS #053 of 500. Documented SECOND GLHS built, 53rd GLHS sold. Recently restored in a 'restomod' fashion. Have most original parts to return to stock, if desired. New paint, correct (for THIS GLHS) 'Intercooler' decals, refinished wheels, new tires, all new Konis,...,...(well, just see below) Engine: -1990 2.2 Common Block (no balance shafts) -1990 2.2 Forged Crank -Turbo II Rods -Venolia Forged Pistons (.927" Pin) -Fresh G Head -TBI Roller Cam -VNT Exhaust Manifold -Brand New (Not Rebuilt) VNT Turbo -2 Piece Turbo II Intake -Shelby Valve Cover -Brand New Starter -All Brand New Turbo Lines -2.5" Mandrel Bent Exhaust Transmission: -Brand New A568 5 Speed -Quaiffe Automatic Torque Biasing Differential -Aluminum Flywheel -Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch -Brand New Driver's Side Axle (88 L Body/Auto) -New U joint in Hybrid Intermediate Shaft -New L Body Turbo Right Axle Electrical and Fuel: -Walbro 255l/h In Tank Fuel Pump -Custom 1990 Turbo IV/SBEC Wiring Harness, PERFECT, Looks Entirely OEM -Custom ND Performance SBEC (16 psi) -MP +20% Fuel Injectors -3 Bar MAP Sensor -LOTS More In This Department! Suspension & Brakes: -NEW Konis On All Four Corners -LRE -1" Front AutoX Springs -Quickor Front AND Rear 1 1/8" Sway Bars -Energy Suspension Polygraphite Front Bushings -GLHS Centurion Wheels (Professionally Refinished) -New Front Brake Rotors and Pads -New Front Wheel Bearings/Hubs -ALL NEW G-Body Rear Disc Brakes (New Calipers, Rotors, and Pads) -Nitto 550 Tires (NEW!!!) Exterior: Every Piece of Exterior Trim is NOS Including: - New Ground Effects - New Grill - New Headlight Bezels - New Tailights - New Rub Trim (VERY Hard to Find) - New Windshield - NOS Fog Light Covers - Bumper Covers - CORRECT (For GLHS #053) INTERCOOLER (Not INTERCOOLED) Decals Interior: - New Carpet and Floor Mats - New MOMO Shift Knob - NOS CS Shelby Seat Covers - New Headliner - Tinted Windows - New Front Seat Belts - BRAND New Chrysler AM/FM/Cass/CD Radio - Sony 5.25" Speakers - Cold ORIGINAL A/C - Bel Radar Detector - Cruise Control - Dual A-Pillar Gauge Pod - Autometer Ultralight Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges There is much, MUCH more to this car. I built it to be a reliable street car, with more than enough capability to be a competetive Autocrosser. Car is completely turn-key, needs nothing at all. Its very early production date and other historical items make this potentially one of the most valuable GLHS's built. There is a lot more information about the car on the website below, including more pictures. I can help arrange delivery of this top notch automobile. I am travelling to Phoenix this next weekend (7 June), and can deliver it there, or along the way from New Mexico. I can be reached via email, or by phone at (505) 458-6100. Thanks! See PICS HERE -> http://www.ndperformance.com Neil Emiro (http://www.ndperformance.com) 1986 Shelby GLHS #053 (VNT/Intercooled/A568) FOR SALE!!! 1996 Dodge Stratus (PT Cruiser 2.4l/Auto) 1996 Dodge Indy Ram Pickup (5.9l/Auto 'ND RAM') 2000 Dodge Neon ES FOR SALE!!! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From pehlmanj at prodigy.net Sat Jun 1 21:14:01 2002 From: pehlmanj at prodigy.net (John Pehlman) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: First passes down the 1/4 mile with new car Message-ID: <002101c209db$29ad3460$1e64a8c0@john1> Hi all, I finally got to make some full passes down the track with my 62 Dart 440 since I put the new drivetrain in it. Best time of the day was a 12.83 at 104 mph, and there is still a bunch left in it. My current throttle cable is cobbled together (not long enough) and doesn't permit the back barrels in my double pumper to open up all the way. Plus, being the first time out, we're still playing with jetting. And, weather conditions were really bad today (most people were running about 3/10's off their normal dial-ins. So, I'm figuring there is probably another 5 to 6/10 left in the car given good weather, and all four barrels of the carb working correctly. This was the first motor I had built on my own (dad coached me a little, but I did almost all of the wrenching). It was good to see it hold together, and run almost as well as I had planned when building it. Plus, I can now say I have a legitimate 12 second street car (it is driven back and forth to the track, as well as to work, church on sundays, and occasionally out for ice cream in the evenings. If any of you get out to Maple Grove, my brother and I both run 62 dodges, and Hank has his Challenger pitted next to us (or we're pitted next to him - depends on who gets there first and saves the spots). Anyway, if any of you do get chance to make it out to the track, stop by and say Hi. We met a fellow today from Norwalk, Ohio who said he used to be an MML member back around 1994-1995 ( and of course I can't remember his name, but he was driving a nice little Duster). Anyway, thanks for listening. I had to share. JohnP 62 Dart 440 (440 powered - Hughes cam, Hughes stage I heads, torker II intake,Holley 800 DP, Thorley headers, 3 inch exhaust, dynamic convertor, 3.91 posi, 727 tranny (with the pushbuttons). 12.83 at 104 mph - woohoo! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kaldad1 at antelecom.net Sat Jun 1 21:45:00 2002 From: kaldad1 at antelecom.net (John Dahlin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: local cruise in Message-ID: <000a01c209df$9191be80$42228bcd@johndahl> went to the local foster's freeze cruise in tonight here in Rosamond, CA. as usual there were only three mopars. so few in fact, that the judging did NOT have a best mopar category. grrrrrr... there were two a bodies. my 64 valiant vert, which as a daily driver, cannot stand up against show cars. the other a body was a 70 dart 340 factory 4 speed car. looked real nice.the other was a 57 chrysler windsor, under construction. i just got to win the lottery, so i can finish the Hurst, and blow them away. i've been told it's a good thing to have goals in life. LOL the best of the cruise in in my humble opinion was a 66 ford galaxie vert 428 factory 4 speed car. looked like it could have been a trailer queen. but was nicer than any of the 9 million chebbies that were there. i guess the other cool thing about this cruise in, was that they turned away non classic cars. hee hee hee really pissed off a honda ownere, who spent all day getting his shopping cart handle on the trunk lid. no mopar category!!!!!!!!!!! next year all so cal mmlers are going to have to drive up to the antelope valley and make them pay for their insolence. john 64 valiant vert 273 66 satellite 70 300 hurst To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Sat Jun 1 22:25:22 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Broadcast sheet "wrong job"? Message-ID: I was working on the '70 Barracuda today and I happened to glance under the driver's seat and saw parts of a broadcast sheet. Of course, the current project stopped and I had the seat out in about 2 minutes. :-) I only got a few small chunks, but there was no printing anywhere on it except for the largest piece which was the very bottom, on which was printed: WRONG JOB NO 196476 WILL RESEND NOW A net search didn't turn up anything. After I found that broadcast sheet, I looked under the passenger side, and I saw chunks of broadcast sheet there too. This one was filled out though! That seat came out, and I was able to salvage much more of the sheet than the driver's side. In the paperwork that the previous owner gave me was a broadcast sheet (in pretty good condition) for a 72 Barracuda. I pulled it out to help myself to piece together the passenger seat broadcast sheet, which is when I noticed that it was the exact same info. I guess he must have pulled the sheet from the back seat. (3 broadcast sheets in one car?) Oh, BTW, the number from the "WRONG JOB NO" sheet didn't appear to match anything on the other broadcast sheets. The sheet that I found in the paperwork says "REV 3-71" and "H SERIES 1972", but the one that I pulled from the seat says "REV 2/72" and "SERIES 1972-1973". The seats in my car are green, and the broadcast sheet appears to be from a '72 Sherwood Green Metallic 318ci Barracuda with a green vinyl top. My guess is that these seats are not original to my car. I do know for sure that my seats have been out because I found antisieze on the hold-down bolts (which I am now getting all over my keyboard as I type this) ;-) I was hoping to find some documentation on the car, but looks like that was a dead end. :-( Oh well. The car is supposed to be a '70 Gran Coupe and has the Gran Coupe rear, Gran Coupe emblems on the side, and Gran Coupe emblems on the door panels. But its got a '72-74 front grille. Unfortunately the car has no VIN plate or fender tag. I'm guessing it was either a theft recovery or salvaged. The previous owner noticed the missing VIN plate several months after he bought it and had started to do a mild restoration. (Obviously this concerned him greatly. Heh heh heh!) He lived in PA, and the PA DMV looked over the car and issued a new "VIN" - its actually a special plate on the firewall. I'm guessing this process was researching to make sure the car wasn't stolen, etc. So anyway, to make a long story short, I don't have any actual info about what my car started life as. Its been hacked up over the years. I guess I'll continue to assume that it is indeed a '70. (Anyone know of other ways to check for things like this? Alternate locations for ID numbers, etc? The drivetrain won't be any help - its got a non-original 440, 727, and 8.75. I guess I'll hang onto the 72 broadcast sheets so I can give them to the owner of the car they belong to if I ever happen to run across that person. (Though if I've got the seats I suspect the car they came from is scrap metal now.) Is there any place I can "register" that I have the sheets so that the owner could find me? Or I suppose in theory the VIN could be used to track down the current owner or final resting place? Well this post sure went on longer than I intended... I just thought I'd post something to see if someone might have any insight or comments about any of the above. :-) TTYL! -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From moose135 at juno.com Sat Jun 1 22:39:12 2002 From: moose135 at juno.com (John A Musolino) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Strange questions on new Dakotas... Message-ID: <20020601.234904.984.0.moose135@juno.com> DR CHALLENGER writes: > I have had a rumor that the next generation Dakota has been > cancelled and that in 2 years the current models will be discontinued >and that Chrysler will no longer market a mid-size truck. Is this true? That's what I heard a couple of months ago (I think it was at www.car-truck.com the Mopar news/rumor site - check it out if you've never been there) The Dakota & Durango share a common platform, and the next generation Durango is rumored to be bigger than the current model. Building a new Dakota on this new, bigger platform would put it too close to the Ram, both in size and price. Moose John Musolino moose135@juno.com 1984 Daytona (Lawn Art) ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From moose135 at juno.com Sat Jun 1 22:39:12 2002 From: moose135 at juno.com (John A Musolino) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Strange questions on new Dakotas... Message-ID: <20020601.235825.904.0.moose135@juno.com> DR CHALLENGER writes: > I have had a rumor that the next generation Dakota has been > cancelled and that in 2 years the current models will be discontinued >and that Chrysler will no longer market a mid-size truck. Is this true? That's what I heard a couple of months ago (I think it was at www.car-truck.com the Mopar news/rumor site - check it out if you've never been there) The Dakota & Durango share a common platform, and the next generation Durango is rumored to be bigger than the current model. Building a new Dakota on this new, bigger platform would put it too close to the Ram, both in size and price. Moose John Musolino moose135@juno.com 1984 Daytona (Lawn Art) ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From prysm at snet.net Sat Jun 1 23:17:46 2002 From: prysm at snet.net (TM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: Scamp for Sale Message-ID: <3CF99C6A.8090001@snet.net> Hi all, Now that I have a new daily driver it's time to make room in my yard . I hate to part with this car, it's been part of my life for the last 9 years. Ol' true blue is what we called it. The car never let me down. Well anyway here's the story on it. It's a 1975 Scamp, S6, 904 AT, PS. 188,000+ miles. Doesn't burn or leak oil. Doesn't knock or ping, electronic ignition, has great pick up for a 6. The tranny works great. It has 41/2"bolt pattern DISK BRAKES. Everything is there, great for a conversion. 71/4" rear, that doesn't whine. The guy that owned it before me installed 5 leaf, leaf springs in the rear. The back of this A body does not sit low in the back as most do. The interior is pretty shot. Front fenders, hood, trunk lid & doors are in good shape. Here's the bad news. The trunk is rotted BAD. That's why I'm getting rid of it. I don't want to spend the money to repair it even though it runs great. I'm in northern CT. If anyone is in the area they could take it for test drive, it's still got plates on it. This car would make a trip anywhere, it's that dependable. I'm asking $300 or B.O. Todd To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com Sat Jun 1 23:17:55 2002 From: Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com (Tom Hunsaker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:13 2004 Subject: First passes down the 1/4 mile with new car Message-ID: <3CF99C73.8050704@AutoTechUnlimited.com> John Pehlman wrote: > This was the first motor I had built on my own (dad coached me a little, but I did almost >all of the wrenching). It was good to see it hold together, and run almost >as well as I had planned when building it. > There is nothing more fulfilling than getting the rewards of building something with your own hands! Good job. Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker Springboro, Ohio 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudadream at yahoo.com Sat Jun 1 23:23:22 2002 From: cudadream at yahoo.com (Mark Schwartz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Dreamlot's "Grand Opening" was just that; GRAND!!! :) Message-ID: <20020602042322.44242.qmail@web21206.mail.yahoo.com> Bill, Thanks for the kind comments on my hemicuda vert. It will be at Ohlone tomorrow... tomcat --- Bill Dedman wrote: > constant stream of > awesome machinery; everything from Cobras and a V-12 > Ferrari to a Hemi Cuda > convertible __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SouthernGypsy at att.net Sat Jun 1 23:26:27 2002 From: SouthernGypsy at att.net (SouthernGypsy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Broadcast sheet "wrong job"? Message-ID: <001801c209ed$aa3515a0$7ee35d0c@compaq> The easiest places to look... There should be VIN numbers stamped into the top of the Radiator Core Support, and when you open the trunk there should be one toward the left side facing straight up on the lip, usually partially (if not totally) covered by the trunk seal glued over it. Then one on the drivers side of the outside firewall, often somewhere around where the wiper motor is mounted. Then of course inside of the door jambs somewhere. We once had one that was a '70 front end welded to a '72 backend... or maybe it was the other way around, it's been about 7 years and I've forgotten which end was which but you get the idea. It was an excellent job, You could only see the welds on the inside up in the sides on the back when the headliner was out. Maybe you bought the same car we used to have :) It has a green interior too... It run great (had a nicely built engine) and had a straight body but was in black primer and still needed restoration when we sold it to someone who intended to restore it themselves as a '70 .... it had titles for both ends so they could choose I guess .... I'd bought it in a package deal with a '71 Cuda Convertible and we were only interested in the 'Cuda so I sold the other one. - Have fun - www.classic-mopars.com > So anyway, to make a long story short, I don't have any actual > info about what my car started life as. Its been hacked up over the > years. I guess I'll continue to assume that it is indeed a '70. > (Anyone know of other ways to check for things like this? Alternate > locations for ID numbers, etc? The drivetrain won't be any help - To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Sun Jun 2 00:27:06 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Broadcast sheet "wrong job"? Message-ID: Heh - replying to myself now... ;-) I just wanted to add that if anyone would like to take a look at the printing on the broadcast sheet, I put a pic of it up at: http://jonsteiger.com/www/cudasheet -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ecksjay at attbi.com Sun Jun 2 03:06:28 2002 From: ecksjay at attbi.com (Phil) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: jeepers! (long) Message-ID: <01f401c20a0c$660c90a0$0100a8c0@pnwxj> ----- Original Message ----- From: "SouthernGypsy" > Actually the Inline-6 4.0 first came available in '87 and the 4.0HO came > available in '90 With all due respect...I have to disagree, UNLESS you're talking about a 91 model available in 90. ;o) To further back my statement: http://www.off-road.com/jeep/chero1.txt >... The first new Cherokee I ever bought was a '90 model 2 > door Sport with the 4.0 HO loaded out with everything including off-road > package and I'd custom ordered with the optional Dana 44's front and rear > (known as the "Forestry Service" package back then) Again, are you certain it was not called the "Utility" package? > which I ran to 420,000 > miles before selling it to a friend who still has it.... and it STILL run, > looked, and drove like new and that was with some serious 4-wheeling. > I think he now has over 550,000 on it but did finally pull the engine and > replace the rings > at around 495k ... There was virtually no sign of wear and it was as clean > inside as any engine I've ever seen. I never ran anything but > full-synthetic Castrol Syntec 5-50 oil and all my other fluids were > synthetic also and he had continued the same way. Longevity is a huge factor in them provided they are taken care of. ;o) Phil To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bjj at easilink.com Sun Jun 2 07:05:01 2002 From: bjj at easilink.com (Bill Johnson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Spark Plugs, Headers, Carter AVS and Racing a 440 Message-ID: Thanks Karl. I have been debating which carb to put on and have avoided the Holley for fear of tuning problems. I have never had a Holley but seem to hear horror stories about how difficult they are to tune and stay that way. I have been looking at the Edelbrock 1411 which is a 750 and keep the appearance of the original. I also need to make sure the throat of the carb is the right size for my air grabber base plate to fit on properly. As far as the plug problem, yes it was not only a fouled plug but the wrong plugs totally. The dude at the parts store gave me plugs for a 426 Hemi instead of a 440. I paid no attention to the reach and didn't have the old ones to take out when I slapped them in but the reach is wayyyyyyyy too long, needless to say. Put in the correct Autolite Platinum's and no more missing. Hopefully using the hemi plugs did no permanent damage for the short period they were in. Whiteshoes Message Number: 6 Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 05:11:27 -0700 From: "Karl M." Subject: Re: Spark Plugs, Headers, Carter AVS and Racing a 440 Bill, First...... replace the AVS with a Holley 3310 (750 cfm, vacuum secondaries). the AVS is a decent carb for a 383 or smaller engine but not for a 440 (especially one with a cam). The AVS is an emission carb and won't move enough cfm for a big engine like that. As for plugs, I prefer regular Autolite or Motorcraft non resistor plugs. I've been running these in my Mopars for over 25 years with good results. I usually start with an A42 or equivalent. If you have an engine that is running really clean A32 plugs might be better. Also what is your manifold vacuum at idle? And check your initial timing. I'll bet you just fouled a plug. But it dosen't hurt to check the wires. Karl M. Bill Johnson wrote: > Got everything adjusted and working well on my 69 RR and after a few short > runs it has developed a miss on the right side. I am using Autolite > Platinum's and suspect one of the plugs has gone bad already. This car has a > 440 built for racing however I do not have the particulars. Long story but > actually is how I got the car by paying off the motor work bill. The carb > seems to run quite rich and adjusting it doesn't seem to help. It has > headers so there is also a lot of heat. Wires are fine and new, Mopar > electronic ignition is new so I need some advice on plugs and tuning the AVS > to lean it. Any recommendations for jets in the carb and what plugs are good > for 1/8th and 1/4 mile racing? Something that will take the heat from the > headers as well. I can't wait to get everything done with the bodywork so I > can get some actually times down. All I know is it is fast!! > > Thanks for any advice! > > Whiteshoes > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From imperial59 at mindspring.com Sun Jun 2 09:17:34 2002 From: imperial59 at mindspring.com (Imperial 59) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Wheel Bearings Message-ID: <006101c20a40$3dc46120$8c00000a@SteveB> How much play is tooooo much? On both of my front wheels with the car off the ground I can move the wheel/drum assembly from side to side just a little. I am getting ready to take the car on a 1200 mile round trip. Discovered this while I was rotating the tires today. Money is getting tight so I don't want to spend on new wheel bearings / having races pressed in if it is acceptable to have a little play there. Steve B. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From racer-x at erols.com Sun Jun 2 09:42:01 2002 From: racer-x at erols.com (Joe Goetz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: A body 8.75" housing? Message-ID: <3CFA2EB9.4000205@erols.com> Well, it looks like the wagon will be dismantled. It had a good life, best ET of 13.49 - for a 4400# smallblock car, that's not bad. But, I want to go faster (don't we all) so I may be picking up a '72 Duster shell (Tor Red with 340 Wedge-style flat black hood and window trim, just out of the body shop) to drop the 360 in. From what I can tell I have everything I need already in the wagon....other than a rear. Are the A body 8.75" rears *that* hard to find? I've heard they are. I have a chunk, all I need is a housing and a pair of axles. Or, if I have to, I can get my '72 Charger housing/axles cut down...anyone know the measurements? Also, anyone got the measurements for the driveshaft that I'm going to need? It'll be a 727/8.75, 72 Duster. I'm guessing I'll *have* to get that made special.... TIA, everyone! Wish me luck on being the "winning bidder" on the car :) j -- Joe Goetz, racer-x@erols.com Frederick, MD, USA 85 T&C turbo woodie wagon 72 Satellite wagon 87 CSX 133 77 Tradesman 200 89 CSX 135 89 Spirit ES 2.5tI/auto 91 Daytona CS/AGS 99 Buell M2 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Sun Jun 2 10:17:42 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: My Dodge Spirit burned in fire.... Message-ID: On 05/31/2002 03:00:11 PM Andy Garland wrote: >Hank, > >so sorry to hear about your loss, but I'm just glad nobody was hurt! >BTW, if you do have any trouble finding replacement stuff, there is a >junkyard down my way that specializes in Mopars...I could go >scrounging around if there's something you can't track down. Come to >think of it, now that you mention a fire, I seem to recall a few FWD >Mopars of that era in the junkyard that were there because of fire >damage. I hope that's not a common occurrence! > Andy, thanks. A bunch of people came by and told us horror stories of fires starting in various cars they had. I asked what kind of cars, and got every brand you can think of, foreign and domestic! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior .... 64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T Clone with 440; 89 Chrysler TC Maserati, Maserati Heads, 5 speed; 90 Dodge Spirit (going); 96 Dodge Ram SLT 2 WD, 360, 3.92 Sure Grip, Magnum R/T equipped.... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Sun Jun 2 10:20:17 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: My Dodge Spirit burned in fire.... Message-ID: On 05/31/2002 03:15:39 PM Big Al wrote: >Hank, > >Did you find out what started the fire? You said something about the battery >or battery cable. Any more info? > Al, she was sitting in a room in a building and the car was parked. It seemed to be a short between the battery and the motor. The fire department ruled it as an accident, like and act of God. Other than that, no real info. ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior .... 64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T Clone with 440; 89 Chrysler TC Maserati, Maserati Heads, 5 speed; 90 Dodge Spirit (Going, I am afraid); 96 Dodge Ram SLT 2 WD, 360, 3.92 Sure Grip, Magnum R/T equipped.... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Sun Jun 2 10:25:27 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Spark Plugs, Headers, Carter AVS and Racing a 440 Message-ID: On 05/31/2002 03:49:51 PM Bill Johnson wrote: >.... This car has a >440 built for racing however I do not have the particulars. Long story but >actually is how I got the car by paying off the motor work bill. The carb >seems to run quite rich and adjusting it doesn't seem to help. It has >headers so there is also a lot of heat. Wires are fine and new, Mopar >electronic ignition is new so I need some advice on plugs and tuning the AVS >to lean it. Any recommendations for jets in the carb and what plugs are good >for 1/8th and 1/4 mile racing? > Bill, I can't tell you how to adjust the carb, since I use a Holley, where once every thing is set you just have to change the jets, instead of breaking off the top and changing jets and rods like on an AVS. Those Holleys are so complex! However, for plugs just use regular Autolite number 85s. You can also use Accel since they are the same plug. ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior .... 64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T Clone with 440; 89 Chrysler TC Maserati, Maserati Heads, 5 speed; 90 Dodge Spirit????; 96 Dodge Ram SLT 2 WD, 360, 3.92 Sure Grip, Magnum R/T equipped.... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gd1996 at yahoo.com Sun Jun 2 11:30:32 2002 From: gd1996 at yahoo.com (Joe Barchesky) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Looking for some advice on 400 buildup Message-ID: <20020602163032.18432.qmail@web13305.mail.yahoo.com> I decided to build a 440 for my 69 road runner. Whta I have a is a 70 440 shortblock, plan is to get the block done 30 over, all checked out and so on. Crank needs turned, so I'll have that done, rods checked and so on. Now what I have to work with is a set of 906s professionally ported and polished, 2.18 intake/1.81 exhaust valves, stainless, hardened seats and so on. The heads were milled to have 74cc chambers. They look to be opened up pretty well, I also got a matching cam that went with the heads, its an ultradyne .585 lift, 258 duration at .050. Now the cam might be too much for what I want, but would like to use anythign I can that I have. These parts ran 11.2 in the 1/4 in a 70 satellite that weighted 3400lbs. What I need help with is deciding on a good set of pistons to work with this motor. I'd like to build it with 11 second potential, but still run on pump gas. I've been looking at the trw 2266 pistons, with these i would get 9.7 to 1 compression with what I have, but heard so much about them being too heavy. What would be a good cam to use with the steup, open to all suggestions, main goal is to run pump gas and use most of what I have. It will be topped off with a holley street domination, 850 holley carb, tci 3500rpm stall, and 3.91 sure grip, thanks! ===== Joe B 91 Stealth RT Twin Turbo 69 Road Runner 440 68 Sport Satellite 85 Daytona Turbo Z __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 2 11:50:41 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Subject: Slow battery drain Message-ID: <021901c20a55$a3e22540$0409b241@laptop> >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 19:15:05 EDT >From: Acuda4me@aol.com >Subject: Slow battery drain > >My '67 Valiant [free nannymobile!!] has a drain somewhere in the electrical >system. I would appreciate any tips/tricks that anyone has come up with to >eliminate circuits and narrow down the problem. Two easy ones to check are leakage on the battery surface and leaking alternator diodes. If the battery is coated with grime and acid, it will conduct. Give it a bath with baking soda solution and rinse well. Installing felt washers and keeping them oiled also seems to help prevent surface leakage. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the alternator output cable and install an ammeter, DMM or VOM in series. Reconnect the battery cable and note any leakage current. Any more than a few milliamps indicates leakage current in a diode. If you have this problem, disassemble the alternator and test the individual diodes with an ohmmeter. Replace diodes as necessary. Disconnect the battery negative, reconnect the alternator, and install the ammeter in series with the battery. If the current is greater than the diode leakage, you have another drain on the system. Others have described where to go from here. Have you tested the battery under load? If its getting old, its capacity is reduced. This makes a small parasitic drain appear to be much worse than it is. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 2 12:08:10 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Subject: Oil Sending Unit Message-ID: <021e01c20a58$1465a240$0409b241@laptop> >Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 08:33:27 -0700 >From: shooter > >Any suggestions for an electrical sending unit for a 70 Challenger 440 >that is smaller than the stock "bell" design. I am running a mechanical >with the electrical but with the "T" adapter the bell type is too fat to >clear the block and there is not enough room between the engine and >firewall to point it somewhere else. Use a short length of prefab brake line (available at the auto parts store) to relocate the device elsewhere on the engine. Larger diameter will leave the gauge more responsive, especially when cold. Use appropriate fittings, and be sure to clamp the fitting at the sender to something solid. You can solder or braze a mounting tab/bracket to the fitting. Use a tubing bender as required. Note: some creativity will also be required. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 2 12:15:54 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Subject: jeepers! Message-ID: <022101c20a59$2aaad100$0409b241@laptop> >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:34:15 -0700 (PDT) >From: Shane McKelvey > >I need the collective wisdom of the MML regarding Jeep >Cherokees. The intention is to buy a 1990-ish Cherokee >as a second car and I need to know what breaks on >these... > >The engine will be the 4.0L six. I'd like a five speed >but will consider the AT as well. The wife wants AC >and power everything but I'm sure she will hand crank >her windows if a low-price gem appears. > >Many Cherokees I've looked at have high miles on the >engines, so they seem to last, but many AT vehicles >seem to have had trans trouble. Is that a weak area? >What about the rest of the drivetrain? Thanks in >advance. The 5-speed transmission is made by Pugeot (sp?) and parts are *very* expensive. My brother's '88 had the pilot bearing fail, which chewed up the transmission input shaft. About 6 years ago the shaft was ~$500! Needless to say, I designed a solid bushing to replace the roller bearing. There was enough undamaged shaft surface that its still working ~100k miles later. Be sure to look at the harmonic balancer. The rubber deteriorates and allows the balance weight to move rearward until it carves a groove through the timing chain cover. Parts aren't that expensive, but its a pita job because there's no room to work. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ecksjay at attbi.com Sun Jun 2 12:18:07 2002 From: ecksjay at attbi.com (Phil) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Subject: jeepers! Message-ID: <024001c20a59$769c5840$0100a8c0@pnwxj> I have a friend on my Jeep list who has an 87 ex-Forest Service supervisor's rig...and when the P-U-geout tranny went out he put one in from a TJ Wrangler, the AX-15. I think that the only problem he ran into was in the pilot bearing bushing, which ended up being one from a CJ7, so a local shop had one for only $8... He hasn't had many miles on it since the swap, but most of our trips have been highway and he hasn't had any problems with that. With the swap he also got the added 4" of the Wrangler shifter along with a shorter throw, so he's thrilled. Comfort matter in off-road applications. ;o) Phil (Itchin to get on the trail again!!! Wish I had a welder...) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kenneth Mayer" > The 5-speed transmission is made by Pugeot (sp?) and parts are *very* > expensive. My brother's '88 had the pilot bearing fail, which chewed up the > transmission input shaft. About 6 years ago the shaft was ~$500! Needless > to say, I designed a solid bushing to replace the roller bearing. There was > enough undamaged shaft surface that its still working ~100k miles later. > > Be sure to look at the harmonic balancer. The rubber deteriorates and > allows the balance weight to move rearward until it carves a groove through > the timing chain cover. Parts aren't that expensive, but its a pita job > because there's no room to work. > > Ken > :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Sun Jun 2 12:49:45 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Pro Stock Message-ID: <005101c20a5d$e2712f60$0200000a@dna> AJ got by the first round against Warren Johnson AJ .449 6.865-201.22 (W) WJ .502 6.854-200.89 George Marnell is next. Then Gene Wilson, this one will be interesting. Later Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SouthernGypsy at att.net Sun Jun 2 13:12:57 2002 From: SouthernGypsy at att.net (SouthernGypsy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: jeepers! (long) Message-ID: <002401c20a61$206e4c00$e7e25d0c@compaq> No, it's a '90 model... Ordered late mid-year but still a '90 and it plainly had a "4.0 High Output" badge on the tailgate and the engine to match. I think there are even pictures of it on our web-site, it's the dark maroon 2 door Sport. On mine it was called the Foresty Service package, it was not even supposed to be available to regular people but the dealership I got it from was the only one in the state who orderd them for people like the forestry service and PD's and I had been told to go buy from them if I wanted the Dual Dana 44's, my sales lady had to order it as a "supervisors" Model through the Forestry SAR program to get all the power stuff and my choice of color (Deep Burgandy), otherwise It would have came in base model and green or brown she said. > > With all due respect...I have to disagree, UNLESS you're talking about a 91 > model available in 90. ;o) To further back my statement: > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/chero1.txt > > >... The first new Cherokee I ever bought was a '90 model 2 > > door Sport with the 4.0 HO loaded out with everything including off-road > > package and I'd custom ordered with the optional Dana 44's front and rear > > (known as the "Forestry Service" package back then) > > Again, are you certain it was not called the "Utility" package? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SouthernGypsy at att.net Sun Jun 2 13:14:58 2002 From: SouthernGypsy at att.net (SouthernGypsy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: jeepers! (long) Message-ID: <003001c20a61$6842a9e0$e7e25d0c@compaq> I just went and looked at that web-site you sent, looks like they made a mistake or a typo.. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Sun Jun 2 14:30:13 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Pro Stock Message-ID: <006101c20a6b$eb646980$0200000a@dna> Well, I thought Wilson would beat Hammons, didn't happen. Marnell broke so AJ's in the semi final. This was AJ's lucky round. Hammons is running good so it'll be interesting. Who will stage first? I bet Hammonds goes right in. Later Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From raycuda at comcast.net Sun Jun 2 15:02:55 2002 From: raycuda at comcast.net (Raycuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Franklin Mint Model Message-ID: <3CFA79EF.93ACF252@comcast.net> I had the Barracuda to a local show yesterday and I won a door prize, a Franklin Mint Die cast model 1963 Corvette. I don't collect these things and am not a Corvette fan so if anyone on the list collects such things, make me an offer. I checked the Franklin Mint site and they sell for $135+shipping. Nice Mopar turnout at the show for Mopars but I only know of one that took a trophy, my buddy's Sport Satellite 'vert took Best Convertible. -- Ray Kuter 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe, 1969 GTX 440 4spd, 1971 Barracuda Convertible, 2001 P.T. Cruiser To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Sun Jun 2 15:50:03 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Wheel Bearings Message-ID: <002401c20a77$124171a0$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Imperial 59" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:17 AM Subject: Wheel Bearings > How much play is tooooo much? On both of my front wheels with the car off > the ground I can move the wheel/drum assembly from side to side just a > little. I am getting ready to take the car on a 1200 mile round trip. > Discovered this while I was rotating the tires today. Money is getting > tight so I don't want to spend on new wheel bearings / having races pressed > in if it is acceptable to have a little play there. > > Steve B. Steve, Try to shake the wheel in a vertical axis. Side to side or horizontal movement could be a tie rod end or steering box problem. A tiny bit of movement in the wheel bearing is acceptable. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Sun Jun 2 16:47:07 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Oil Sending Unit Message-ID: <008201c20a7f$0ac01500$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Brown" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 4:03 PM Subject: Re: Oil Sending Unit > > From: shooter > > > Any suggestions for an electrical sending unit for > > a 70 Challenger 440 that is smaller than the stock > > "bell" design. > > Check out chrysler part # 53030493. I had jotted > that down in my 'to buy' list. Its an idiot light/ > guage sending unit combo that was smaller than the old > guage sending unit. > > Jeff > > And not nearly as good. The original give a good indication of oil pressure and was responsive, the late model one is very sluggish and not a good indication of "real" oil pressure. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Sun Jun 2 20:12:42 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Broadcast sheet "wrong job"? Message-ID: Many thanks to Mike and SouthernGypsy for their replies - they lead to an interesting discovery... I couldn't find anything on the truck sill or the driver's side firewall, and I see where the plate used to be on the door, but its gone now. However, I did find a number on the radiator support! It looked to me like the last 8 digits of a VIN, although the year and plant digits were reversed from the order they appear in a VIN. Anyway, I discovered that these numbers (in the correct "VIN order" are actually the last 8 digits of my "special" PA VIN! So whoever issued the special plate at the PA DMV knew what they were doing. It also confirmed that I do indeed have a '70. (Or at least a '70 front end - I guess you can never take anything for granted!) :-) I am planning to get ahold of the PA DMV as soon as I can figure out who I actually need to talk to to try and get some more info about the car, but does anyone have any other ideas as to how I can research it? Is there any way to do a national search of a partial VIN number? I have the last 8 digits and I can reconstruct 3 of the other missing digits (line & body type). I figure that should really narrow things down - if only I had access to a database of all cars ever registered! ;-) Any suggestions as to where I can go from here? I'd love to learn more about the car. I'm just hungry for more info for curiosity's sake - I'd love to know more about how the car left the factory and what its ownership history was. Thanks! -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wburns at ptd.net Sun Jun 2 20:53:05 2002 From: wburns at ptd.net (Will) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Broadcast sheet "wrong job"? Message-ID: good luck getting ahold of PennDOT! Will Burns 69 Roadrunner 383 4 speed 66 Coronet 440 400-4 727 73 Swinger /6 A999 93 Totota 4x4 xcab v6/5spd To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Mark71GTX at hotmail.com Sun Jun 2 21:24:15 2002 From: Mark71GTX at hotmail.com (Mark Wood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: what rim width for 32 x 12.50? Message-ID: What size rim would I need to run a set of 32x12.50 R15's? I would like to know a minimum and a maximum width, and what would just look good. These will go on my Ram Charger. Thanks! Mark Wood http://communities.msn.com/MarkandVelana 71 GTX, 71 Challenger, 77 Stepside, 80 shortbed, 84 RC 4x4, 97 4x4 Ram 1500 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 2 22:02:54 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:14 2004 Subject: Sluggish Power Steering Message-ID: <029801c20aab$29f06160$0409b241@laptop> >Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 13:36:56 -0500 >From: Brad Hogg > >I had a few suggestions to check the belt tension and condition. I hadn't >said so but those were of course the two things that I checked first. I >flushed the system with fresh PS fluid (it had had ATF in it at one point). >It is much better now but it has still done the same thing a couple times. >I can't help but think there is some contaminent in there that is holding a >valve open or closed at the wrong time. I am going to try to flush it again >to get rid of the remaining ATF so I'll see if that helps. You also need to check the pressure with the steering wheel centered and at full lock. When centered, there should be little or no pressure, as the spool valve is open and the fluid flows through the steering gear and back through the return hose. At full lock, you should see on the order of 1,000 psi (check the FSM for the exact value). The last test is to shut off the flow from the pump and measure the relief pressure (again, ~1,000 psi). These tests require a gauge setup that gets installed in series with the high presshre hose. The device has a shutoff valve downstream of the tee where the gauge is attached. Its simple to make one; use a 1500 psi liquid-filled gauge and appropriate high pressure fittings. If the relief pressure is too low on an old car, the pump vanes are likely worn. Rebuild kits are available, or install a rebuilt pump. If the relief pressure is OK, but the pressure is too low at full lock, there's likely an internal leak in the steering gear (worn seals will cause this). In this case buy a rebuild kit and rebuild the steering gear. You'll need a 0.0001" reading micrometer...some ballscrews are set up with balls that alternate large/small, with the size difference being 0.0001". You should also install a filter in the return line. Have the parts droid look in the AC catalog for the power steering filter used on some 60's Cadillacs; it will fit Mopars. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From joepharaoh at sympatico.ca Sun Jun 2 22:27:11 2002 From: joepharaoh at sympatico.ca (Joe Tewfik) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Temp guage wiring help Message-ID: <003301c20aae$8cb73780$65c1fea9@hala1.on.home.com> Hello, I have been trying to re-wire my temp gauge in my '73 Barracuda but I don't seem to understand my FSM wiring diagram. Can somebody help me with this?? What color are the wires from the guage to the sending unit?? Thanks, Joe Tewfik '73 Barracuda - 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ecksjay at attbi.com Sun Jun 2 23:00:12 2002 From: ecksjay at attbi.com (Phil) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: what rim width for 32 x 12.50? Message-ID: <029101c20ab3$2964a280$0100a8c0@pnwxj> I run 33x12.50x15's on 8" wide Bart Wheels... The "narrow" width works great for when I air the tires down on the trail... If you want more stability I'd go with a 9 or 10" wide wheel. Phil ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Wood" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:24 PM Subject: what rim width for 32 x 12.50? > What size rim would I need to run a set of 32x12.50 R15's? I would like to > know a minimum and a maximum width, and what would just look good. These > will go on my Ram Charger. Thanks! > Mark Wood > http://communities.msn.com/MarkandVelana > 71 GTX, 71 Challenger, 77 Stepside, > 80 shortbed, 84 RC 4x4, 97 4x4 Ram 1500 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 2 23:24:20 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Subject: Chrome Plating Message-ID: <02c101c20ab6$8a976b20$0409b241@laptop> >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:47:41 -0700 >From: Leake > >>> Does anyone know of someone or company that does replating plastic chrome in >>> Northern California? I feel $2000 is a bit unreasonable for a part 4" long. > >I recently got my bumpers and hood inserts rechromed at Best Chrome in >San Martin, CA, about 20 miles south of San Jose for less than $700, and >the job looks good to me. They are just south of San Martin Avenue and >Monterey Highway, on the west side of the road. You could start here: http://members.cox.net/oldies1955/electro/electro101.htm or the Yahoo electroplating group. Somebody on the group might be able to do it or at least give you some direction. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hti at bigfoot.com Sun Jun 2 23:45:03 2002 From: hti at bigfoot.com (MH) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Broadcast sheet "wrong job"? Message-ID: <3CFAF44F.1000903@bigfoot.com> What VIN is on the title? Do a title search and try and track down previous owners. Most states will do a title search for a fee and give you previous owners, when registered etc. Jon wrote: > Many thanks to Mike and SouthernGypsy for their replies - they >lead to an interesting discovery... I couldn't find anything >on the truck sill or the driver's side firewall, and I see where the >plate used to be on the door, but its gone now. However, I did >find a number on the radiator support! It looked to me like the >last 8 digits of a VIN, although the year and plant digits were >reversed from the order they appear in a VIN. > > Anyway, I discovered that these numbers (in the correct "VIN >order" are actually the last 8 digits of my "special" PA VIN! >So whoever issued the special plate at the PA DMV knew what >they were doing. It also confirmed that I do indeed have a '70. >(Or at least a '70 front end - I guess you can never take anything >for granted!) :-) > > > I am planning to get ahold of the PA DMV as soon as I can >figure out who I actually need to talk to to try and get some more >info about the car, but does anyone have any other ideas as to >how I can research it? Is there any way to do a national search >of a partial VIN number? I have the last 8 digits and I can >reconstruct 3 of the other missing digits (line & body type). >I figure that should really narrow things down - if only I >had access to a database of all cars ever registered! ;-) > > Any suggestions as to where I can go from here? I'd love >to learn more about the car. I'm just hungry for more info >for curiosity's sake - I'd love to know more about how the car >left the factory and what its ownership history was. > > Thanks! > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' > > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Sun Jun 2 23:56:37 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Broadcast sheet "wrong job"? Message-ID: On Sun, 2 Jun 2002, MH wrote: > What VIN is on the title? Do a title search and try and track down > previous owners. Most states will do a title search for a fee and give > you previous owners, when registered etc. The VIN that is on the title is the "special" VIN that was invented by Pennsylvania, and it was during the ownership of the previous owner when that was done. So I have a feeling that it will only go back to the previous owner. Seems like if there was a tie to the real VIN, they would have used it on the special plate. But, I'm planning to give it a try anyway, I need to figure out what sort of searches PA offers and get ahold of someone to get them started. -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bbodybarn at yahoo.com Mon Jun 3 00:00:31 2002 From: bbodybarn at yahoo.com (Jeff Brown) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Oil Sending Unit Message-ID: <20020603050031.56033.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> > > > Any suggestions for an electrical sending unit I said... > > Check out chrysler part # 53030493. and Al says... > And not nearly as good. The original give a good > indication of oil pressure and was responsive, > the late model one is very sluggish and not a > good indication of "real" oil pressure. Thanks Al! I'll hack that off my to buy list! ;) Jeff __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From don.uhl at sk.sympatico.ca Mon Jun 3 00:52:19 2002 From: don.uhl at sk.sympatico.ca (Don Uhl) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Warlock Update Message-ID: <3CFB0413.AEC1F3B2@sk.sympatico.ca> If anyone is still interested in my Warlock story, I spoke with the last owner of the truck today. He had lost the truck to the auto body shop a couple of years ago and I was not sure if I should give him a call or not. Good thing that I did, as I got a few parts and some history on the truck. The parts that I got from him are: New replated and still wrapped in paper, Front and Rear chrome bumpers, and also newly replated chrome side steps for the box. Also original 4bl carb and intake (now a six pack). He also through in some mud flaps original from Chrysler with a little devil and the writing "Dirty, Mean and Nasty" on them. All of the above for the sum of $300.00 Some history on the truck, he bought it from the original owner and drove it only 2 weeks before taking it to the body shop for a complete job. The mileage of 37,000 is correct. This rebuilt 440 that is in it was done by the original owner. The last owner had the Chrysler dealer do some research on the truck and according to them it is one of only 3 Warlocks that were shipped to Western Canada with special order 440's in them. This I will have to check up on and try to verify. This leaves me with only exhaust left to do and to get some box slats and wood for the box. A friend of mine has a box from a Little Red that I can get the steal strips from and I can use the old wood from it for a pattern for some new wood. I thought that oak wood would be correct to use on this truck, but the last owner said he took out Louisiana Pine and this was the wood used on the 77 Warlocks. Does anyone know if this is true? If not I will use Oak. Mopar life is great!!! http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/uhld/Warlock1.jpg -- - Don Uhl "Moparaholic" http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/uhld/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hti at bigfoot.com Mon Jun 3 01:07:32 2002 From: hti at bigfoot.com (MH) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Radiator Advice needed Message-ID: <3CFB07A4.4080209@bigfoot.com> Well after almost 2 years I finally got the engine in my challenger. I am now researching the cooling system. I have looked at a variety of radiators and am not too excited about the price of most. Anyone have any advice/suggestions in type, brand, construction? I am running a 440 (standard specs, mild cam, headers, 6 pac) and a AT. I am considering using a external trans cooler with front of the radiator and using a large electric fan as a puller. Have already talk to the trans gurus and all have told me that so long as I run a large cooler with decent air flow I should be ok. Thanks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Mon Jun 3 01:18:59 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Radiator Advice needed Message-ID: <00cc01c20ac6$8c9ae900$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "MH" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 11:07 PM Subject: Radiator Advice needed > Well after almost 2 years I finally got the engine in my challenger. I > am now researching the cooling system. I have looked at a variety of > radiators and am not too excited about the price of most. Anyone have > any advice/suggestions in type, brand, construction? I am running a 440 > (standard specs, mild cam, headers, 6 pac) and a AT. I am considering > using a external trans cooler with front of the radiator and using a > large electric fan as a puller. Have already talk to the trans gurus and > all have told me that so long as I run a large cooler with decent air > flow I should be ok. > > Thanks > Most electric fans do not move much air. I would suggest you use a clutch fan and shroud. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From soule at chattanooga.net Mon Jun 3 07:03:00 2002 From: soule at chattanooga.net (Murray Motor Co.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Last Reminder - Southern Regional Chrysler & Imperial Meet June 7-8. Message-ID: <00ed01c20af6$9c8eec00$f00e8142@Murray> Hello Everyone, This message is our last reminder about the upcoming Southern Regional Chrysler & Imperial Meet in Chattanooga, TN, on June 7-8. It's less than one week away! Below is a partial list of attendees and cars. 1962 Imperial Jeff Carrothers 1967 Imperial Jay Williams 1955 Plymouth Jason Rogers 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury George Lockhart 1971 Imperial Elijah Scott 1965 Imperial LeBaron Elijah Scott 1976 NYB Dennis Schrader 1959 DeSoto Sportsman John Clines 1963 Imperial Bob Copestake 1974 Imperial Roger Cooper 1966 Imperial LeBaron Chris Hawkins 1960 New Yorker Wagon Chris Hawkins 1964 Imperial LeBaron Eugene Smith 1968 Imperial Vert. Robert Soule 1968 Imperial LeBaron Robert Soule 1965 300 Vert. Robert Soule 1966 New Yorker George Vine 1964 or '73 or '54 Imperial Kerry Pinkerton This is not a complete list. If I have overlooked someone, please let me know and I will add your car to the list. Elijah Scott and I would like to invite all owners and/or enthusiasts of Imperials and all C-Body Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto, and Chrysler products to attend the Southern Regional Chrysler & Imperial Meet in Chattanooga, Tennessee, the weekend of June 7 - 8. We had a fine meet last summer and decided to expand this year's meet to include all C-Body Mopar Products. Make your plans now to attend the 2002 Southern Regional Chrysler & Imperial Meet. Tons of pictures with accompanying text of last year's Southern Regional Chrysler & Imperial Meet in Chattanooga can be found at http://www.imperialclub.com/Events/Chattanooga2001/. Last year's meet was one of the best Chrysler & Imperial events I've ever been to. And remember -- this year's meet is open to ALL C Body Chrysler products! So polish that chrome, wax that paint, shine those tires, and come to the Southern Regional Chrysler & Imperial Meet in Chattanooga, TN, on June 7th and 8th. All registration information is available at http://www.imperialclub.com/Events/Chattanooga2002/, or contact Elijah Scott at Imperial1971@yahoo.com or Robert Soule at soule@chattanooga.net for more information. Hope to see you there! Robert Soule To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From skrazo at netzero.net Mon Jun 3 09:12:02 2002 From: skrazo at netzero.net (James Rekus) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: looking for shifter rods Message-ID: <000d01c20b08$a3de6460$6eb99cd1@jrekus> Does anyone have a set of 4-speed shifter rods for a 69 B-body they will part with? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dartgt at attglobal.net Mon Jun 3 09:14:55 2002 From: dartgt at attglobal.net (Kevin Kuhlkin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Any full-size early 70's parts cars out there? Message-ID: <200206031414.g53EEar77481@smtp-relay-1.tamu.edu> Any chance someone has a full-size early-70's parts car and wouldn't mind checking something for me? My '72 Newport (4 door) killed the door jamb switch on the driver's door a few weeks ago and I can't find a replacement switch. The passenger side switch is available, as is the rear door switches, but NOT the driver's door. Naturally this is a unique switch because it's a 3 wire unit (not the normal 2 wire unit), and of course NAPA and the local parts places don't carry it and it's NS1 at the dealerships. So, if anyone has a parts car that has a 3 wire door jamb switch in the driver's door and wouldn't mind selling the switch, PLEASE let me know. In case you've never pulled one of these switches before, it's fairly painless to do since the switch threads into the door jamb (e.g., there is no nut behind the door jamb that you have to get to). Thanks alot, Kevin Kuhlkin dartgta@attglobal.net '68 Dart 2 dr sdn, 1972 Newport To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Mon Jun 3 09:27:57 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Any full-size early 70's parts cars out there? Message-ID: <013b01c20b0a$db469650$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Kuhlkin" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 7:14 AM Subject: Any full-size early 70's parts cars out there? > Any chance someone has a full-size early-70's parts car and > wouldn't mind checking something for me? My '72 Newport (4 > door) killed the door jamb switch on the driver's door a few weeks > ago and I can't find a replacement switch. The passenger side > switch is available, as is the rear door switches, but NOT the > driver's door. Naturally this is a unique switch because it's a 3 wire > unit (not the normal 2 wire unit), and of course NAPA and the local > parts places don't carry it and it's NS1 at the dealerships. > > So, if anyone has a parts car that has a 3 wire door jamb switch in > the driver's door and wouldn't mind selling the switch, PLEASE let > me know. In case you've never pulled one of these switches > before, it's fairly painless to do since the switch threads into the > door jamb (e.g., there is no nut behind the door jamb that you have > to get to). > > Thanks alot, > > > Kevin Kuhlkin Kevin, If you can't find a switch I can help you make it work with a regular one or two wire switch. I do not have a wiring diagram of your car, but if someone can help with that..... Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From monkeytrinket at yahoo.com Mon Jun 3 09:46:55 2002 From: monkeytrinket at yahoo.com (Alex) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Head Liner help Message-ID: <20020603144655.17254.qmail@web10601.mail.yahoo.com> I just received a replacement headliner from 1aauto for my '67 Dart. I haven't tried to install it yet because I noticed there was something that I am missing. I don't have any insulation to go in above the new headliner. I was thinking about using carpet insulation. Is that a good idea? Is there something better to use? How bad would my road noise be if I didn't use any? TIA -Alex ===== -The views and or advertisements to follow are not necessarily those of the sender. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jpilone at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 3 10:26:13 2002 From: jpilone at bellsouth.net (Jarrod Pilone) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: '97 Ram code help! Message-ID: <003001c20b12$ff27a3e0$3901a8c0@Christ> a buddy of mine did the key on and off on his '97 ram 1500 with a 318 and auto. he got a code "21" between the 12 and 55. Can anyone tell me what code 21 is? Thanks Jarrod jpilone@bellsouth.net www.mopar-man.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From stephen.durr at divine.com Mon Jun 3 10:40:56 2002 From: stephen.durr at divine.com (Stephen Durr) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Wanted: 440 short block Message-ID: <012001c20b15$0d55c9e0$c120010a@adtest.chil1.parlano.com> Hello everyone, I finally got my EFI project finished a couple weeks ago and had the car back on the road for a week. I put almost 1,000 miles on it. I was in Iowa visiting my father and running an errand when BAM sudden catastrophic engine failure. The camshaft broke. The entire section of the cam for cylinders 5 and 6 snapped off and fell into the crankcase. The lifters and pushrods followed. The ensuing malay in the crankcase resulted in broken rods and the block being split wide open on the drivers side. The entire shortblock is trashed. Haven't pulled the heads yet (brand new Edelbrock aluminum with Hughes Stage Two porting) but I think they are undamaged. So if anyone has a fresh shortblock with no greater than 9-to-1 compression, I may be interested. Unfortunately I am forced to bargain hunt since I am still $13,000 in debt from this whole project. Stephen Durr 70 Challenger R/T EFI Supercharged (used to be six pack) 99 Avenger ES To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Mon Jun 3 11:15:54 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: 2 1/2 inch X pipe to be put on the Challenger.... Message-ID: I have an appointment to drop off my Challenger at Meineke tomorrow. George Foreman is going to put in a 2 1/2 inch X pipe exhaust to my FlowMasters all the way out the back to the pan through exhaust! Mandrell bent! I am so excited! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; Burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hiseas at netscape.net Mon Jun 3 11:19:47 2002 From: hiseas at netscape.net (Trevor Paxton) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: Fender Tag on 69' Polara ? Message-ID: <3CFB9723.6050809@netscape.net> Greetings Mopar Folks, Can anyone please instruct me how to identify the fender tag on a 69' Polara, and where it will be located. Thanks, Trevor 69 Polara vert 383 (4Sale) 69 Polara vert 318 (4Sale) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Mon Jun 3 11:21:24 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (Daty Rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: 2 1/2 inch X pipe to be put on the Challenger.... Message-ID: <002001c20b1a$b54ef0e0$1702a8c0@HOME> Are you going to get one of his lean mean grilling machines? -Daty > George Foreman is going to put in a 2 1/2 inch X pipe exhaust to my > FlowMasters all the way out the back to the pan through exhaust! > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com Mon Jun 3 11:31:25 2002 From: Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com (Graham.Barnard@jdsu.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: 2 1/2 inch X pipe to be put on the Challenger.... Message-ID: Hey, don't knock 'em. God know's what I'd be eating if it wasn't for that machine ;-) Maybe I can swap a grill for an x-pipe? Hank, let us know how the exhaust works out. Graham (can't cook worth spit) '71 Demon (cooks the tires only) Are you going to get one of his lean mean grilling machines? -Daty > George Foreman is going to put in a 2 1/2 inch X pipe exhaust to my > FlowMasters all the way out the back to the pan through exhaust! > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca Mon Jun 3 11:52:50 2002 From: andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: '97 Ram code help! Message-ID: <3CFB9EE2.4010900@dns3.nipissingu.ca> Jarrod Pilone wrote: > a buddy of mine did the key on and off on his '97 ram 1500 with a 318 and > auto. > > he got a code "21" between the 12 and 55. > > Can anyone tell me what code 21 is? > The older cars used 21 to indicate that the O2 sensor signal was out of range. I suspoect that the codes would not have changed, at least not basic codes like that. Check the wiring to see if the circuit is open or is shorted (including all connectors). Otherwise, it's likely the O2 sensor that's way beyond it's 'best by' date. How many miles on it? -- Andre -- You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jpilone at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 3 11:54:53 2002 From: jpilone at bellsouth.net (Jarrod Pilone) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: '97 Ram code help! Message-ID: <001701c20b1f$62902220$3901a8c0@Christ> > > Check the wiring to see if the circuit is open or is shorted (including > all connectors). Otherwise, it's likely the O2 sensor that's way beyond > it's 'best by' date. How many miles on it? 69,000 miles are on his truck... Jarrod To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From enolagay at execulink.com Mon Jun 3 11:59:09 2002 From: enolagay at execulink.com (340 EH) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: any one have a FSM for 99 Neon? Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020603125447.00a43790@execulink.com> A buddy of mine asked me to help him change his front shoes. If it were for my own car I'd stumble through without the proper procedure (if it was my car I'd have the proper FSM ;-) , but since it's not mine I want to make sure I know how to do it by the book. I've done Drums but never Disks so this should be fun. If you could fax me the pad removal pages from the FAM I'd appreciate it. I'm book smart, Practically dumb! 8-D Richard Middleton 1970 Dart Swinger 340, 727, 2:73 SG ( 15.2 @ 90 mph) 1998 Dakota ACR 318, 5sp, 3:92 SG ( 15.3 @ 89 mph) London, ON To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kcbilse at chibardun.net Mon Jun 3 23:47:43 2002 From: kcbilse at chibardun.net (curt bilse) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: 66 Belvedere parts needed Message-ID: <3CFC466E.DBA39078@chibardun.net> I just found a nice 66 Belvedere vert. I need a few pieces of trim for it. Can anyone help? Here's what I need. 1. A nice trim piece that goes across the front of the hood. 2. A set of headlight bezels that are in really good shape. ( mine arn't to bad, but am looking for better.) 3. A correct gas cap in good shape. 4. A Plymouth emblem that goes on the round trim piece on the right rear quarter that matches the gas cap on the left. PLEASE let me know if you have or know some one that has these pieces. THANKS, Curt Bilse 66 Belvedere Vert 318 Poly To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Mon Jun 3 12:04:48 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:15 2004 Subject: 2 1/2 inch X pipe to be put on the Challenger.... Message-ID: On 06/03/2002 12:21:24 PM Daty wrote: > Are you going to get one of his lean mean grilling machines? >-Daty > Daty, I think that where the 'X' is, that is where you grill the burgers! It should be mighty hot there! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kcbilse at chibardun.net Mon Jun 3 23:59:44 2002 From: kcbilse at chibardun.net (curt bilse) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: 66 Belvedere Advice needed Message-ID: <3CFC493F.6048F061@chibardun.net> I picked up this really nice 66 Belvedere Vert. I love the car except for a couple things. It has a 3spd. on the column and no power steering. I have the parts to put an automatic, or a 4spd., and power steering on it. My question is. Is it going to make a magor change in the value if I do this swap. I'm am leaning towards the automatic becaus then I don't have to cut a hole in the floor for the shifter and it's totally reversable back to stock. I also want to swap to late model disk disk brakes. Let me know what you think. Curt Bilse 66 Belvedere Vert To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca Mon Jun 3 12:18:20 2002 From: andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: '97 Ram code help! Message-ID: <3CFBA4DC.8080804@dns3.nipissingu.ca> Jarrod Pilone wrote: >>Check the wiring to see if the circuit is open or is shorted (including >>all connectors). Otherwise, it's likely the O2 sensor that's way beyond >>it's 'best by' date. How many miles on it? > > > 69,000 miles are on his truck... > It's getting there, but it shouldn't be totally out to lunch. Get a digital Volt meter and start probing about to see what kind of voltage the sensor is generating. Make sure this voltage is getting to the computer. The voltage should be right around 12 (one) volt. Bobbing up and down around 1V, about .8 to 1.2 or so would be about right. -- Andre -- You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Michael at coyotent.com Mon Jun 3 12:35:47 2002 From: Michael at coyotent.com (Michael Quinn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Warlock Update Message-ID: Don, Cool truck. I never realized 440's were an option in an 1/2 ton. I think the wood is Southern Yellow Pine. Very hard and mainly used for flooring. Not cheap though. The oak is more than adequate and looks stock, maybe cost prohibitive. Also, something really cool is salvaged wood. Salvagers find logs from the bottom of lakes that are 200-300 years old that are perfect, generally Cypress. The cost is quite high. Makes for something unique. Try the classic truck magazines for suppliers of hardware and such. Good luck Later... Michael in Fullerton, Ca 1968 Dart GT 360/727/355. www.geocities.com/michaeluser > ---------- > From: Don Uhl > Reply To: Don Uhl > Sent: Sunday, June 2, 2002 10:52 PM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: Warlock Update > > If anyone is still interested in my Warlock story, I spoke with the > last owner of the truck today. He had lost the truck to the auto body > shop a couple of years ago and I was not sure if I should give him a > call or not. Good thing that I did, as I got a few parts and some > history on the truck. > The parts that I got from him are: New replated and still wrapped in > paper, Front and Rear chrome bumpers, and also newly replated chrome > side steps for the box. Also original 4bl carb and intake (now a six > pack). He also through in some mud flaps original from Chrysler with a > little devil and the writing "Dirty, Mean and Nasty" on them. All of > the above for the sum of $300.00 > Some history on the truck, he bought it from the original owner and > drove it only 2 weeks before taking it to the body shop for a complete > job. The mileage of 37,000 is correct. This rebuilt 440 that is in it > was done by the original owner. The last owner had the Chrysler dealer > do some research on the truck and according to them it is one of only 3 > Warlocks that were shipped to Western Canada with special order 440's in > them. This I will have to check up on and try to verify. > This leaves me with only exhaust left to do and to get some box > slats and wood for the box. A friend of mine has a box from a Little Red > that I can get the steal strips from and I can use the old wood from it > for a pattern for some new wood. I thought that oak wood would be > correct to use on this truck, but the last owner said he took out > Louisiana Pine and this was the wood used on the 77 Warlocks. Does > anyone know if this is true? If not I will use Oak. > Mopar life is great!!! > http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/uhld/Warlock1.jpg > > -- > - Don Uhl "Moparaholic" http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/uhld/ > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com Mon Jun 3 12:47:19 2002 From: Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com (Graham.Barnard@jdsu.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Wanted: 440 short block Message-ID: Wow, that really sucks. I was going to ask last week how the project was going and what progress was made. What brand was the camshaft? If it was a Crane cam, I'll file that with all the broken rocker arm adjusters I've been reading about. Hope the heads aren't damaged and you can get it fixed. Graham (hope to follow). '71 Demon (one day EFI & supercharged). Hello everyone, I finally got my EFI project finished a couple weeks ago and had the car back on the road for a week. I put almost 1,000 miles on it. I was in Iowa visiting my father and running an errand when BAM sudden catastrophic engine failure. The camshaft broke. The entire section of the cam for cylinders 5 and 6 snapped off and fell into the crankcase. The lifters and pushrods followed. The ensuing malay in the crankcase resulted in broken rods and the block being split wide open on the drivers side. The entire shortblock is trashed. Haven't pulled the heads yet (brand new Edelbrock aluminum with Hughes Stage Two porting) but I think they are undamaged. So if anyone has a fresh shortblock with no greater than 9-to-1 compression, I may be interested. Unfortunately I am forced to bargain hunt since I am still $13,000 in debt from this whole project. Stephen Durr 70 Challenger R/T EFI Supercharged (used to be six pack) 99 Avenger ES To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Mon Jun 3 12:50:06 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: '97 Ram code help! Message-ID: Andre of the North writes about a code 21.... > > Check the wiring to see if the circuit is open or is shorted (including > > all connectors). Otherwise, it's likely the O2 sensor that's way beyond > > it's 'best by' date. How many miles on it? Jarrod Pilone answers... >69,000 miles are on his truck... Hi Jarrod, I'd recommend that your friend tee in a DVOM onto the oxygen sensor line. He should ground the other DVOM lead. Then he can watch oxygen sensor's behavior after the truck goes into closed loop operation. That'll tell him if the sensor needs replacing. Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From stephen.durr at divine.com Mon Jun 3 13:13:05 2002 From: stephen.durr at divine.com (Stephen Durr) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Wanted: 440 short block Message-ID: <018d01c20b2a$4ef8b7d0$c120010a@adtest.chil1.parlano.com> The cam was a Hughes cam, I think most of his cams are ground by Engle. The cam I had in the engine before was a Hughes and it was a very good cam that I never had any problem with. Probably just a 1-in-a-million casting defect that I was unlucky enough to wind up with. > Wow, that really sucks. I was going to ask last week how the project was > going and what progress was made. What brand was the camshaft? If it was a > Crane cam, I'll file that with all the broken rocker arm adjusters I've > been reading about. Hope the heads aren't damaged and you can get it fixed. Stephen Durr 70 Challenger R/T EFI Supercharged (used to be six pack) 99 Avenger ES To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Mon Jun 3 13:41:24 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Wanted: 440 short block Message-ID: <00de01c20b2e$43baec40$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:47 AM Subject: Re: Wanted: 440 short block > So if anyone has a fresh shortblock with no greater than 9-to-1 > compression, > I may be interested. Unfortunately I am forced to bargain hunt since I am > still $13,000 in debt from this whole project. > Just looked in our newspaper: I'm in Tucson. 440 engine, .040 over w/rebuild kit, you assemble, also 727 transmission. $800/OBO for all 520-663-5633 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From LeeD383 at earthlink.net Mon Jun 3 14:10:54 2002 From: LeeD383 at earthlink.net (Lee D.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Head Liner help Message-ID: <3CFBBF3E.57A5962@earthlink.net> Alex, When I replaced the headliner in my Roadrunner I also purchased the insulation from Year One. The insulation is a pre-cut white fiber fill and very light weight. I would think the carpet insulation would be too heavy and would eventually fall down onto the roof side of the headliner. I purchased a can of 3M Super Trim Adhesive at a local parts store. You can lay out the insulation on the garage floor and spray it with the adhesive per directions on the can. Then take it into the car and stick it to the roof. The adhesive bonds quickly. The reason for the insulation is to cut down on the heat that comes through the roof in the summer sun and also to hold heat in the car in the winter. It deadens interior noise also. The Weld-On contact adhesive that YO sells to bond the headliner to the roof rail works well also. Lee Original Message... --------------------- Message Number: 10 Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:46:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Alex Subject: Head Liner help I just received a replacement headliner from 1aauto for my '67 Dart. I haven't tried to install it yet because I noticed there was something that I am missing. I don't have any insulation to go in above the new headliner. I was thinking about using carpet insulation. Is that a good idea? Is there something better to use? How bad would my road noise be if I didn't use any? TIA -Alex To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Mon Jun 3 14:15:38 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (Daty Rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: 2 1/2 inch X pipe to be put on the Challenger.... Message-ID: <003301c20b33$0be6ade0$1702a8c0@HOME> So all you have to do now is cut a hole in your console, now you can grill your lunch and race at the same time, then eat on the return road, what a pit timesaver! -Daty > > Are you going to get one of his lean mean grilling machines? > >-Daty > > > Daty, I think that where the 'X' is, that is where you grill the > burgers! It should be mighty hot there! > ====>>>> > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Mon Jun 3 14:30:41 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (Daty Rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: PT Cruiser brake help needed... Message-ID: <007001c20b35$26048d80$1702a8c0@HOME> I'm looking for performance brake pads for my PT Cruiser. I understand there are some "Green Pads" out there somewhere, I haven't been able to locate them yet. Anyone know of a source for any type performance pads? -Daty To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudadream at yahoo.com Mon Jun 3 14:48:50 2002 From: cudadream at yahoo.com (Mark Schwartz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Radiator Advice needed Message-ID: <20020603194850.57016.qmail@web21208.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, I can highly recommend a radiator shop in AZ. It's called AirMobile and it's in Phoenix. Sorry, don't have the number handy. But they build the prettiest, coolest running, best capacity radiator that I have ever seen. It's got a great top tank that is light years ahead of B-Cool and Griffith. I can send you some pics if you want. tomcat 70 hemicuda vert clone --- MH wrote: > Well after almost 2 years I finally got the engine > in my challenger. I > am now researching the cooling system. I have looked > at a variety of > radiators and am not too excited about the price of > most. Anyone have > any advice/suggestions in type, brand, construction? > I am running a 440 > (standard specs, mild cam, headers, 6 pac) and a AT. > I am considering > using a external trans cooler with front of the > radiator and using a > large electric fan as a puller. Have already talk to > the trans gurus and > all have told me that so long as I run a large > cooler with decent air > flow I should be ok. > > Thanks > > To unsubscribe send mail to > unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see > http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 3 15:02:24 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Radiator Advice needed Message-ID: <3CFBCB50.699503BF@sedona.net> What width is your radiator? And what happened to the radiator that was in the car? If you still have the tanks and brackets you have most of the battle won. Karl M. MH wrote: > Well after almost 2 years I finally got the engine in my challenger. I > am now researching the cooling system. I have looked at a variety of > radiators and am not too excited about the price of most. Anyone have > any advice/suggestions in type, brand, construction? I am running a 440 > (standard specs, mild cam, headers, 6 pac) and a AT. I am considering > using a external trans cooler with front of the radiator and using a > large electric fan as a puller. Have already talk to the trans gurus and > all have told me that so long as I run a large cooler with decent air > flow I should be ok. > > Thanks > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 3 15:20:56 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Wanted: 440 short block Message-ID: <3CFBCFA8.C77B5C3A@sedona.net> Sounds like you need to send a bill to Hughes with some busted cam pieces. Any one can have a part failure but the tell is how well they take care of you. Your experiences would sure have an impact on any decision I might have to buy anything from Hughes cam or otherwise. And I'll bet cumulatively the folks on the MML give them a bunch of money each year. Karl M. Stephen Durr wrote: > The cam was a Hughes cam, I think most of his cams are ground by Engle. The > cam I had in the engine before was a Hughes and it was a very good cam that > I never had any problem with. Probably just a 1-in-a-million casting defect > that I was unlucky enough to wind up with. > > > Wow, that really sucks. I was going to ask last week how the project was > > going and what progress was made. What brand was the camshaft? If it was a > > Crane cam, I'll file that with all the broken rocker arm adjusters I've > > been reading about. Hope the heads aren't damaged and you can get it > fixed. > > Stephen Durr > 70 Challenger R/T EFI Supercharged (used to be six pack) > 99 Avenger ES > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 3 15:35:00 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Head Liner help Message-ID: <3CFBD2F4.1633F6DF@sedona.net> Or another thing is that any good building supply store should have bubble wrap type insulation. I'd use the double bubble with aluminizing on at least one side (it may have it on both sides) and some strips of SDM (sound deadening material). That should really cut down on the noise and heat. Karl M. "Lee D." wrote: > Alex, > > When I replaced the headliner in my Roadrunner I also purchased the > insulation from Year One. The insulation is a pre-cut white fiber fill > and very light weight. I would think the carpet insulation would be too > heavy and would eventually fall down onto the roof side of the > headliner. I purchased a can of 3M Super Trim Adhesive at a local parts > store. You can lay out the insulation on the garage floor and spray it > with the adhesive per directions on the can. Then take it into the car > and stick it to the roof. The adhesive bonds quickly. > > The reason for the insulation is to cut down on the heat that comes > through the roof in the summer sun and also to hold heat in the car in > the winter. It deadens interior noise also. The Weld-On contact > adhesive that YO sells to bond the headliner to the roof rail works well > also. > > Lee > > Original Message... > --------------------- > Message Number: 10 > Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:46:55 -0700 (PDT) > From: Alex > Subject: Head Liner help > > I just received a replacement headliner from 1aauto > for my '67 Dart. I haven't tried to install it yet > because I noticed there was something that I am > missing. I don't have any insulation to go in above > the new headliner. I was thinking about using carpet > insulation. Is that a good idea? Is there something > better to use? How bad would my road noise be if I > didn't use any? > > TIA > > -Alex -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sailnetha at hotmail.com Mon Jun 3 15:41:45 2002 From: sailnetha at hotmail.com (Eric Finn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: '63 Chry 300 Pace Car FS Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mopar.tamu.edu/pipermail/mml-test/attachments/20020603/099f4e8c/attachment.htm From sal1 at qwest.net Mon Jun 3 16:15:29 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: PT Cruiser brake help needed... Message-ID: <00c601c20b43$c9ab0d20$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daty Rogers" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:30 PM Subject: PT Cruiser brake help needed... > I'm looking for performance brake pads for my PT Cruiser. I understand > there are some "Green Pads" out there somewhere, I haven't been able to > locate them yet. Anyone know of a source for any type performance pads? > > -Daty > I believe Auto Zone carries Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. http://www.performancefriction.com/ Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thunder at n-link.com Mon Jun 3 16:16:50 2002 From: thunder at n-link.com (Steve Knickerbocker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: PT Cruiser brake help needed... Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020603160928.00a5d090@mail.dashlink.com> At 02:30 PM 6/3/02 -0500, Daty Rogers wrote: >I'm looking for performance brake pads for my PT Cruiser. I understand >there are some "Green Pads" out there somewhere, I haven't been able to >locate them yet. Anyone know of a source for any type performance pads? I believe "green pads" are made by Hawk. It's one of their pad formulations. Careful with them as I understand from the Neon guys that some of their stuff is very aggressive and eats rotors. I put Performance Friction's pads (Autozone) on the Neon and I noticed the swept area is less than OEM but it still stops the same....not exactly what I had wanted. You need pads already? I got 113k out of the factory ones on the Neon and they worked fine, still had plenty of mileage left in them but were squeaky in the damp. Try www.howellautomotive.com Steve To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Mon Jun 3 16:43:14 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (Daty Rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: PT Cruiser brake help needed... Message-ID: <001801c20b47$aa801720$1702a8c0@HOME> When I swapped tires/rims (I got a screaming deal, I traded my factory 16 inchers straight up for American Racing 106 series 17x7's with Z-rated bigmeats) I noticed I had less than half the pad left on one side. The other side looks fine though. I will get the uneven wear checked (warranty) this week, but I wanted other options than factory pads. EBC makes the green pads from what I've found so far, I have a local dealer checking into it, I know of at least one local Cruiser with them. I haven't heard of Hawk, I'll look into them also. I heard the red pads (from EBC also) will eat rotors if not adequately ventilated. The Cruiser handles much better with the new meats, and the slightly larger tire combo now has my Cruiser better geared for my type driving. All in all I'm very happy with the swap. If anyone wants pics let me know and I'll send them. -Daty > At 02:30 PM 6/3/02 -0500, Daty Rogers wrote: > > >I'm looking for performance brake pads for my PT Cruiser. I understand > >there are some "Green Pads" out there somewhere, I haven't been able to > >locate them yet. Anyone know of a source for any type performance pads? > > > I believe "green pads" are made by Hawk. It's one of their pad > formulations. Careful with them as I understand from the Neon guys that > some of their stuff is very aggressive and eats rotors. I put Performance > Friction's pads (Autozone) on the Neon and I noticed the swept area is less > than OEM but it still stops the same....not exactly what I had wanted. You > need pads already? I got 113k out of the factory ones on the Neon and they > worked fine, still had plenty of mileage left in them but were squeaky in > the damp. > > Try www.howellautomotive.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From moparman340 at hotmail.com Mon Jun 3 17:29:05 2002 From: moparman340 at hotmail.com (Bill Dedman) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Mopar Ralley at Ohlone, Sunday Message-ID: What a fun day this was! I got to the swap meet area about 7:30 a.m., with a fistfull of cash, ready to part with it for the first 4.10:1, 8.75" center-section I could find... but looked all day to no avail. Maybe next time! I stopped by the Mid-Peninsula Mopars (local club) and met Stu, who has a gorgeous lime-green '70 Road Runner, and had a nice chat about their club. Sounds like a great organization. I am thinking about joining. "Dream Lot" Ben showed up about 8, and set up his "hospitality area" covered pavilion, and was a genial host to many, all day ling, with his trusty '52 "Job-Rated" Dodge pickup near-by. I finally got to meet "Copcar George"!!! He turned out to be one of the nicest, and most knowledgeable guys you could ever hope to meet! It was a real treat to get to talk to him, after reading his numerous posts on here for several years. Tony Puig also joined in and added greatly to the conversation. We dined on Amato's BEST sandwiches (the event's caterer) and shot the breeze until the even ended at 3. During the aftermath, I learned that "tomcat" Schwartz's GORGEOUS '70 Hemi 'Cuda had one FIRST PLACE it its category. I went over to congratulate him, and he offered me a ride in it!!! Had I died and gone to heaven??? LOL! He took me for a very exciting ride (sometimes at full-tilt) and for a while it was 1970 again.... LOL! Let's see; I was 32 year old in 1970.... so, that was a rare treat! I can tell you one thing; That 426 Hemi car HAULS THE MAIL!!! And, it's a 4-speed!!! Yes, that made not only my day, but my entire week! Wouldn't have missed it for anything! I'd never ridden in a genuine 426 Hemi car before, and it's everything they said it would be... believe it! Thanks so much, Mr. Tomcat!!! Oh, and of course, the top was DOWN!!! LOL! Profilin'............ :) Great show! Congrats to Mopar Alley for a good one! Bill in Hayward, CA '72 Valiant/360 Magnum/904/8.75" _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Mon Jun 3 17:58:24 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: 2 1/2 inch X pipe to be put on the Challenger.... Message-ID: On 06/03/2002 03:15:38 PM Daty Rogers wrote: >So all you have to do now is cut a hole in your console, now >you can grill your lunch and race at the same time, then eat on the >return road, what a pit timesaver! > Daty, this would have come in handy on Saturday! I set the air pressure in the morning to 42 in the front, 14 on the goodrich in the back. Well, they called us up with such little notice, and ran the lines so fast that I never got a chance to check the air pressure again until the end of the races. Hey! Wait a minute! I should always do that! I got the best reaction times ever with a .524, .512, and a long .551, but the last one did me in! .497! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior .... 64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T Clone with 440; 89 Chrysler TC Maserati, Maserati Heads, 5 speed; Burnt 90 Dodge Spirit; 96 Dodge Ram SLT 2 WD, 360, 3.92 Sure Grip, Magnum R/T equipped.... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From davidg at ccm.net Mon Jun 3 17:58:25 2002 From: davidg at ccm.net (David Gordon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Radiator Advice needed Message-ID: If you need it, I have a brand new in box Modine 26 incher that I bought for my 70 Challenger, that never was installed. Make an offer. BTW its in the Chicago area. David Gordon 70 Challenger On Sun, 2 Jun 2002, MH wrote: > Well after almost 2 years I finally got the engine in my challenger. I > am now researching the cooling system. I have looked at a variety of > radiators and am not too excited about the price of most. Anyone have > any advice/suggestions in type, brand, construction? I am running a 440 > (standard specs, mild cam, headers, 6 pac) and a AT. I am considering > using a external trans cooler with front of the radiator and using a > large electric fan as a puller. Have already talk to the trans gurus and > all have told me that so long as I run a large cooler with decent air > flow I should be ok. > > Thanks > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Mon Jun 3 18:13:18 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Sputtering Gran Fury Message-ID: Andy Garland has another problem with his M-body copcar... >Something else it's been doing lately too, is around 35-45 mph, >it'll start sputtering, almost like it's starving for fuel. Give it >a little more pedal pressure though, and it's usually fine. Any of >your M-bodies ever do that stunt? Hi Andy, The short answer is "yes." It turned out to be a secondary air door on the QuadraJet carb that let the secondary throats open too early. More spring tension solved the problem. The longer answer is that it took me a long time to figure it out. At first I thought that it was too little accelerator pump, so I even drilled a new hole in the lever arm. It didn't help at all, but about that time, my daughter TrannyBoiler wanted to drive the car down to San Diego for school. I thought that she shouldn't need too much acceleration, so I left the car alone. However one day I went down to San Diego to service the car and see Steve Voelker and friends at their North San Diego cruise-in. Once I got to the copcar, I put instruments on it and let TrannyBoiler drive. Almost immediately I noticed two things... 1) TrannyBoiler has a lead foot, so the manifold vacuum would go down to just a few inches at every stoplight. 2) Each time she took off at a green light or shot up one of those canyons in La Jolla, the oxygen sensor would go WAY LEAN!! =8-0 This was a tip-off that the secondary air door was opening too early. I jury-rigged another spring on the air door (another story). Then the car's hesitation disappeared. Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From slow440 at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 3 23:02:17 2002 From: slow440 at bellsouth.net (slow440) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: Wanted: 440 short block Message-ID: <001701c20b7c$9e2e9b60$bdb52243@mikeups> Man that sucks, You have a nice car, I wish I could help. Good luck. Mike To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Mon Jun 3 20:11:19 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: PT Cruiser brake help needed... Message-ID: <007401c20b64$bc7dee80$0200000a@dna> Wilwood makes a upgrade kit for the PT, I was gona put this setup on my wife's, but she don't drive it that hard. You can see the setup on there site. I think there site is www.wilwood.com or http://www.precisionbrakescompany.com/ Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daty Rogers" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 3:30 PM Subject: PT Cruiser brake help needed... > I'm looking for performance brake pads for my PT Cruiser. I understand > there are some "Green Pads" out there somewhere, I haven't been able to > locate them yet. Anyone know of a source for any type performance pads? > > -Daty > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net Mon Jun 3 20:13:29 2002 From: dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net (dodgeboys) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:16 2004 Subject: re.warlock Message-ID: <200206032013.AA50725090@mail.ev1.net> southern yellow pine is soft and cheap but it is what it came with from the factory at least on lil reds ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Quinn" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:35 PM Subject: RE: Warlock Update > Don, > > Cool truck. I never realized 440's were an option in an 1/2 ton. > > I think the wood is Southern Yellow Pine. Very hard and mainly used for > flooring. Not cheap though. The oak is more than adequate and looks stock, -- REAL MEN DRIVE MOPARS -- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From miconi at hotmail.com Mon Jun 3 20:16:01 2002 From: miconi at hotmail.com (Jon Miconi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Warlock Update Message-ID: There is a 440 in my Ramcharger. In theory, with the top off, it would be close to the same weight as the Warlock, considering I also have a live front axle and a t-case. Anyway, Don, I have an issue of Truckin' floating around. The owner put Oak in the bed of his custom early `70's Blazer-turned-pickup. The truck is mostly black. He stained (perhaps painted with a translucent paint?) them a deep gray. It looks very cool, and almost as if you could stick you hand into them. Granted if you are going for correct that wouldn't work, but it would be another option. :) Very cool story. Wonder if the PO is happy to see his old truck being enjoyed by a Mopar lover once again? Jon Miconi `77 Ramcharger 440/727 `80 Ramcharger 360/727 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Quinn" > Cool truck. I never realized 440's were an option in an 1/2 ton. > > I think the wood is Southern Yellow Pine. Very hard and mainly used for [Snip] > are perfect, generally Cypress. The cost is quite high. Makes for something > unique. > Try the classic truck magazines for suppliers of hardware and such. > > > ---------- > > From: Don Uhl > > > > If anyone is still interested in my Warlock story, I spoke with the > > last owner of the truck today. He had lost the truck to the auto body > > shop a couple of years ago and I was not sure if I should give him a > > call or not. Good thing that I did, as I got a few parts and some > > history on the truck. [Snip] > > Louisiana Pine and this was the wood used on the 77 Warlocks. Does > > anyone know if this is true? If not I will use Oak. > > Mopar life is great!!! > > http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/uhld/Warlock1.jpg To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From parkerw at city.bloomington.in.us Mon Jun 3 20:42:50 2002 From: parkerw at city.bloomington.in.us (William Parker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: 66 Belvedere Advice needed Message-ID: <3CFC1B1A.25EDAAE0@city.bloomington.in.us> curt bilse wrote: > > I picked up this really nice 66 Belvedere Vert. I love the car except > for a couple things. > It has a 3spd. on the column and no power steering. I have the parts to > put an automatic, or a 4spd., and power steering on it. My question is. > Is it going to make a magor change in the value if I do this swap. I'm > am leaning towards the automatic becaus then I don't have to cut a hole > in the floor for the shifter and it's totally reversable > back to stock. I also want to swap to late model disk disk brakes. Let > me know what you think. > Curt Bilse > 66 Belvedere Vert I don't think you'll change the value greatly. For one thing, it seems like mild modifications are making less difference these days on most collectible cars except the ultra-rare ones, and for another thing all your proposals are reversible, including the 4-speed. If you do decide to go that way you can just keep the floor section you remove to add the tunnel extension, and tack the extension in lightly. Same for the disc brakes, the only one of mine with original drums which I'm not converting or already have done so is the max wedge car, because I don't want to lose the weird master cylinder brake line set up like I would have to do to convert. So I just gotta make sure that I keep those componants in fresh condition! Bill Parker, South Central Indiana '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart Convertible (Kathi's car); '65 Imperial; '65 Barracuda \6 (Kathi's other car); '68 Hemi Roadrunner; '68 Barracuda Fastback 383-S; '69 Barracuda Fastback now 360 (20 y.o. son's car); '72 Cuda 340 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SSTEIN2 at aol.com Mon Jun 3 20:57:25 2002 From: SSTEIN2 at aol.com (SSTEIN2@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: What does it fit and who has one Message-ID: <19c.33cb2b0.2a2d7885@aol.com> Hi Moparheads. A friend is in need of a right side exhaust manifold for his '76 motorhome w/360. The casting number is 4041488. Can anyone say what other applications use this manifold? Anyone have a good one lying around taking up valuable space? Thanks for any info, Steve To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From don.rey at uconn.edu Mon Jun 3 21:05:11 2002 From: don.rey at uconn.edu (Don Rey) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling Message-ID: <000801c20b6c$435d32b0$0400a8c0@radon> Oh and hard starting too... yeah I've got the works. So what should I do? This is a 72 340 with electronic ignition in front of a 727 auto. FSM says it should idle at 750 and fire 2-1/5 before TDC. My dad and I have checked and adjusted the timing. It idles rough around 1000 and around 10 before TDC. Any sooner and it doesnt start; it completely stalls when I get it to around 2-1/2 before (when adjusting distributor while running). It seems to like idling at 1300 and around 20 before, although its still a little rough and backfires a bit. In addition to these problems, when I put it into gear it drops to 500 rpm and stalls if I don't give it lots of gas quickly (makes it tough to park in the garage!) Also, the last two times I shut her off, she didn't want to stop. A mind of her own... wont start when I want her to, wont stop when I want her to... wont even move without coaxing. Anyway... what would you guys do for this behavior? My dad and I are fresh out of ideas (other than setting her way back to 20 degrees before). There's a show on Sunday that I want to make it to! Would be a shame to miss her first show :-( Thanks in advance for your help! Don 74 Dart Sport with a 72 340 (being stubborn!) www.pbase.com/radon220/my_dodge_dart Connecticut To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 3 22:15:18 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Possible trip to CA Message-ID: <3CFC30C6.9D4E20D9@sedona.net> Looks like I may be making a trip to CA this week to pick up a car. Does anyone need a car or anything else taken from AZ, southern NV or southern CA to the bay area? -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From martyb at dnai.com Mon Jun 3 22:17:33 2002 From: martyb at dnai.com (Marty Bose) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: PT Cruiser brake help needed... Message-ID: >I'm looking for performance brake pads for my PT Cruiser. I understand >there are some "Green Pads" out there somewhere, I haven't been able to >locate them yet. Anyone know of a source for any type performance pads? > >-Daty > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > Unfortunately, it looks like they are out of stock for the moment. Marty http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?category=Pads&autoMake=Chrysler&autoModel=PT+Cruiser&autoYear=2001&x=138&y=6 -- Marty Bose San Leandro, CA (across the bay from San Francisco) 1947 Plymouth P15 Special Deluxe Business Coupe (weekend driver, running a hot rod flathead by this .... January?) 2002 PT Cruiser " Bunny Jr." (wife's car) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From impparts at gpcom.net Mon Jun 3 22:47:23 2002 From: impparts at gpcom.net (Bob) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: 1972 FURY S&W, 400 big block, nice Message-ID: <001901c20b7a$8d5ea160$5f07020a@sted15> MML. Just wanted to drop a line and see if anyone would be interested in a S&W i just picked up. Just brought home a very clean 72 Fury S&W with a big block 400, that runs good. Car is a clean Colorado car. Found two small rust spots in tipical places, but VERY straight. Hide away headlights, green with brown in center. Everything is there including the hubcaps, OH yes, the antanna is gone. Thats all. Its located in east central nebraska. If interested, please e-mail me. impparts@gpcom.net Would like it to go to a good home. THANKS Bob H. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 3 22:56:40 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling Message-ID: <3CFC3A78.9C3BD395@sedona.net> How many miles are on this engine? First check the easy stuff. A vacuum leak (like a broken pcv hose or a bad carb gasket). When did it start doing this? Was it sudden? After looking for vacuum leaks the next thing I'd do is to check the play in the timing chain by removing the distributor cap and turn the engine forward until the rotor starts to move, ..... make a mark on the vibration damper in line with some reference point, then turn the engine backwards until the rotor moves again. Check to see how far you had to turn the crank backwards before the rotor moved. Should be close to 0. Also were any plug wires removed? Check your firing order. There is a myriad of things that could cause similar symptoms. Just eliminate them one at a time. A timing chain that has jumped time causes similar symptoms, a bad ballast resistor, a failing magnetic pickup in the distributor. Also check to make sure your secondaries on your carb are closed all the way. Good luck. I hope it is something simple. Karl M. Don Rey wrote: > Oh and hard starting too... yeah I've got the works. So what should I do? > This is a 72 340 with electronic ignition in front of a 727 auto. FSM says > it should idle at 750 and fire 2-1/5 before TDC. My dad and I have checked > and adjusted the timing. It idles rough around 1000 and around 10 before > TDC. Any sooner and it doesnt start; it completely stalls when I get it to > around 2-1/2 before (when adjusting distributor while running). It seems to > like idling at 1300 and around 20 before, although its still a little rough > and backfires a bit. > > In addition to these problems, when I put it into gear it drops to 500 rpm > and stalls if I don't give it lots of gas quickly (makes it tough to park in > the garage!) Also, the last two times I shut her off, she didn't want to > stop. A mind of her own... wont start when I want her to, wont stop when I > want her to... wont even move without coaxing. > > Anyway... what would you guys do for this behavior? My dad and I are fresh > out of ideas (other than setting her way back to 20 degrees before). There's > a show on Sunday that I want to make it to! Would be a shame to miss her > first show :-( > > Thanks in advance for your help! > > Don > 74 Dart Sport with a 72 340 (being stubborn!) -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hti at bigfoot.com Mon Jun 3 23:01:22 2002 From: hti at bigfoot.com (MH) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Catch can vs recirculation Message-ID: <3CFC3B92.9020401@bigfoot.com> Anyone know the difference between a recovery system and just a catch can? I want to use a recovery system and looking at some it seems it is just a tube extending to the bottom of the catch/recovery bottle. Is there any more to it than that? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hti at bigfoot.com Mon Jun 3 23:01:36 2002 From: hti at bigfoot.com (MH) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Catch can vs recovery system Message-ID: <3CFC3BA0.2090105@bigfoot.com> Anyone know the difference between a recovery system and just a catch can? I want to use a recovery system and looking at some it seems it is just a tube extending to the bottom of the catch/recovery bottle. Is there any more to it than that? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ALIENVOICE at aol.com Mon Jun 3 23:30:53 2002 From: ALIENVOICE at aol.com (ALIENVOICE@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Headlight Fog Message-ID: On the newer headlights is there a vent tube or way to get rid of humidity? My '99 300K has moisture in one headlight and the never-ending rain in Ohio keeps it wet almost all the time. Is there any way to clean inside the plastic cover? Two years in Texas and now Ohio's wet winter & spring has presented both extremes. Sealed beams were easier. LARRY in not so wild, but very, very wet Akron To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Tue Jun 4 00:05:45 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Catch can vs recirculation Message-ID: <3CFC4AA9.87C9581E@sedona.net> That's about it except the radiator cap needs to be for a recovery system. Recovery and non-recovery caps are the same except that the recovery cap has 2 rubber gaskets: one on the spring loaded center of the cap (the pressure seal) and another larger one just under the stamped top of the cap that seals at the outer edge of the filler neck. This forces the coolant to go down the tube instead of out around the edges of the cap and it also facilitates sealing so that the coolant is drawn back into the radiator instead of letting air in around the cap. Karl M. MH wrote: > Anyone know the difference between a recovery system and just a catch > can? I want to use a recovery system and looking at some it seems it is > just a tube extending to the bottom of the catch/recovery bottle. Is > there any more to it than that? > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From raycuda at comcast.net Tue Jun 4 06:00:05 2002 From: raycuda at comcast.net (Raycuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: ACN (C@C) BBQ News Message-ID: <3CFC9DB5.7FC49E94@comcast.net> Gary Viola---Potato Salad Becca---Cookies or brownies Tom Lawson--kielbasa & Kraut also 2 cases of water Greg Garner---corn on the cob Smokin Joe---catsup, mustard, pickels, peppers Phil Lee---Phillee Chillee..turker fryer and cooking oil Jack Arrison---cake Akron Don--turkey injecting spices and needles. And cooker. Hollywood Hunsaker--turkey cooker PigDoc--Pork Chops Me--5 turkeys Tony Puig---last minute "whatever we need" Lew Every-- case of soda and case of diet soda Tom Hunsaker--turkey cooker Ken Mayer---case of Boylans Birch beer Bill Countie--8pounds of chips, assorted flavors John Musolino--case of soda We still need, beer, maybe some cole slaw or salad. Let me know what you would like to bring. Also, if you want to be re-embursed, bring your receipt. We are also going to need folks to help with all the work that goes into the BBQ and the entire weekend. We are going to be without Charles Hudacko and Paul Elosge this year and I can't tell you how much work those two guys do. We will need about four folks to step up to fill those shoes. So please let me know if you can help out. And besides working in the "kitchen" we need folks to take an hour at the "greeting and registration table" all you need do is sit in the shade for an hour shift and greet any club members, check them in take their "lunch money" and hand out name tags. This a great way to put faces to names you see on the list. Those folks that have volunteered to help out: Lou & Joyce Cook John Musolino Lew Every Hollywood and his son If you want to bring food, drink or help out, drop me an e-mail. LESS THAN SIX WEEKS UNTIL ACN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lets take Franks money and have a great time doing it. -- Ray Kuter MML Vice President in charge of separating Frank Mitchell from his money. 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe, 1969 GTX 440 4spd, 1971 Barracuda Convertible, 2001 P.T. Cruiser To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wilkie_steven at emc.com Tue Jun 4 08:47:14 2002 From: wilkie_steven at emc.com (wilkie, steven) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Carlisle Message-ID: <0E8D72EF3084F6499F8FC5F8E870164A228510@srstarr> Wow I just a bomb dropped on me and will not be able to make Carlisle this year!!! Looks like you folks will have to do without the cajun crawfish this year unless someone else wants to bring it. I was planning on staying in a motorhome on the grounds so I don't have a room to give up either....sorry. I was just informed this past Sunday that a good friend of mine is getting married on July 27. I thought we'll no problem there right....until he asked me to be the best man!! Oye......so that gives me no time to get a batchelor party together etc. The only day I can do it is Sat July 13 unfortunately due to other commitments before and after up to the wedding date. I thought about trying to get a day in June but that would be just to fast and too much running around. I'll miss you all and look forward to seeing you again next year!!! Have a ball...... Wilks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kaldad1 at antelecom.net Tue Jun 4 08:52:02 2002 From: kaldad1 at antelecom.net (John Dahlin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Carlisle Message-ID: <000201c20bcf$01ede960$6d228bcd@johndahl> how about a bachelor party at ACN??? kill two birds with one giant mopar show?? john To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wilkie_steven at emc.com Tue Jun 4 09:18:36 2002 From: wilkie_steven at emc.com (wilkie, steven) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: FW: Carlisle Message-ID: <0E8D72EF3084F6499F8FC5F8E870164A228514@srstarr> Good idea John!! That would be my dream ofcourse. I don't know how many of the guys would travel the six hours to get there but I suppose if I kidnapped the groom, they'd have to follow!!! {:o) Wilks ************************************ >how about a bachelor party at ACN??? >kill two birds with one giant mopar >show?? >john To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Tue Jun 4 09:32:59 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Carlisle Message-ID: On 06/04/2002 09:47:14 AM Wilks wrote: >Wow I just a bomb dropped on me and will not be able to make Carlisle this year!!! .snip. I was just informed this past Sunday that a good friend of mine is getting married on July 27. I thought we'll no problem there right....until he asked me to be the best man!! Oye......so that gives me no time to get a batchelor party together etc. The only day I can do it is Sat July 13 > **** Wilkes, bring him to Carlisle! We will throw him a batchelor party there! That would be a great alternative to the go carts! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; Burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wilkie_steven at emc.com Tue Jun 4 09:49:30 2002 From: wilkie_steven at emc.com (wilkie, steven) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Carlisle Message-ID: <0E8D72EF3084F6499F8FC5F8E870164A228516@srstarr> Hank, You know I'd love nothing less than that!! I wish we lived closer and I would suggest it!! I've been trying to figure out a way around this ever since I found out but I just can't see it. Maybe something will come up. Not only does it look like I'll miss Carlisle because of this but I'm on vacation in Cape Cod the 20th-27th. I have to cut my vacation short two days as well. This is his second marriage and I'm going to inform him that it had better be his last!!!!!!!!! {:o) If not, I'll bring him next year and make him ride the go carts so we can all beat him up out there on the track! *********** Hank states: Wilkes, bring him to Carlisle! We will throw him a batchelor party there! That would be a great alternative to the go carts! ====>>>> To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Jens.Kriete at t-online.de Tue Jun 4 12:23:00 2002 From: Jens.Kriete at t-online.de (Jens Kriete) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling Message-ID: <17FGEw-14Ii7EC@fwd05.sul.t-online.com> Hi Don, I recently had a similar problem with the 440 in my Challenger. It turned out to be a cracked accelerator pump diaphragm (secondaries on Double Pumper). Fixed it and it works. The symptoms were similar. The engine ran too rich because fuel leaked into the secondaries all the time. So the engine missed and finally stalled in idle when not much fuel was needed. When I drove it it was no problem as much more air went through the carb, so more fuel was needed. Those few leaking drops of additional fuel didn?t matter then. After it had stalled, I had to fully depress the throttle to give it more air otherwise it wouldn?t start. With that experience I would start to look for anything too rich, for example blown Power Valve on Holleys, jets, idle mixture screws etc. Greetings Jens "Don Rey" schrieb: >Oh and hard starting too... yeah I've got the works. So what should I do? >This is a 72 340 with electronic ignition in front of a 727 auto. FSM says >it should idle at 750 and fire 2-1/5 before TDC. My dad and I have checked >and adjusted the timing. It idles rough around 1000 and around 10 before >TDC. Any sooner and it doesnt start; it completely stalls when I get it to >around 2-1/2 before (when adjusting distributor while running). It seems to >like idling at 1300 and around 20 before, although its still a little rough >and backfires a bit. > >In addition to these problems, when I put it into gear it drops to 500 rpm >and stalls if I don't give it lots of gas quickly (makes it tough to park in >the garage!) Also, the last two times I shut her off, she didn't want to >stop. A mind of her own... wont start when I want her to, wont stop when I >want her to... wont even move without coaxing. > >Anyway... what would you guys do for this behavior? My dad and I are fresh >out of ideas (other than setting her way back to 20 degrees before). There's >a show on Sunday that I want to make it to! Would be a shame to miss her >first show :-( > >Thanks in advance for your help! > >Don >74 Dart Sport with a 72 340 (being stubborn!) >www.pbase.com/radon220/my_dodge_dart >Connecticut > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From don.rey at uconn.edu Tue Jun 4 11:39:50 2002 From: don.rey at uconn.edu (Don Rey) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling - problem solved Message-ID: <006801c20be6$7339d9f0$0400a8c0@radon> I feel a little stupid now, but the problem is solved. It turned out to be the simplest of all the problems: I didn't disconnect the vacuum advance when checking the timing. Both my dad and I had thought of that, but we both figured it wouldn't make that big a difference. Well we couldn't have been much more wrong. Disconnected & plugged the vaccum advance, checked the timing, and it was way AFTER tdc! Tweeked the distributor back, idle became smoother and the timing mark went to around 2-1/2 btdc. Plugged the vacuum advance back in while it was running and she ROARED smooth and perfect all of a sudden! My dad and I looked at eachother very content upon hearing that. So while I do feel a bit sheepish, I'm happy it wasn't something like a worn timing chain. Hmm... now I'll replace those cracked caps plugging the unused vacuum ports just for good measure. Thanks so much for the help!! She could make it to her first show after all! :-D Don 74 Dart Sport 340 www.pbase.com/radon220/my_dodge_dart Connecticut ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl M." To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 11:56 PM Subject: Re: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling > How many miles are on this engine? First check the easy stuff. A vacuum leak > (like a broken pcv hose or a bad carb gasket). When did it start doing this? Was > it sudden? After looking for vacuum leaks the next thing I'd do is to check the > play in the timing chain by removing the distributor cap and turn the engine > forward until the rotor starts to move, ..... make a mark on the vibration > damper in line with some reference point, then turn the engine backwards until > the rotor moves again. Check to see how far you had to turn the crank backwards > before the rotor moved. Should be close to 0. Also were any plug wires removed? > Check your firing order. There is a myriad of things that could cause similar > symptoms. Just eliminate them one at a time. A timing chain that has jumped time > causes similar symptoms, a bad ballast resistor, a failing magnetic pickup in > the distributor. Also check to make sure your secondaries on your carb are > closed all the way. Good luck. I hope it is something simple. > > Karl M. > > Don Rey wrote: > > > Oh and hard starting too... yeah I've got the works. So what should I do? > > This is a 72 340 with electronic ignition in front of a 727 auto. FSM says > > it should idle at 750 and fire 2-1/5 before TDC. My dad and I have checked > > and adjusted the timing. It idles rough around 1000 and around 10 before > > TDC. Any sooner and it doesnt start; it completely stalls when I get it to > > around 2-1/2 before (when adjusting distributor while running). It seems to > > like idling at 1300 and around 20 before, although its still a little rough > > and backfires a bit. > > > > In addition to these problems, when I put it into gear it drops to 500 rpm > > and stalls if I don't give it lots of gas quickly (makes it tough to park in > > the garage!) Also, the last two times I shut her off, she didn't want to > > stop. A mind of her own... wont start when I want her to, wont stop when I > > want her to... wont even move without coaxing. > > > > Anyway... what would you guys do for this behavior? My dad and I are fresh > > out of ideas (other than setting her way back to 20 degrees before). There's > > a show on Sunday that I want to make it to! Would be a shame to miss her > > first show :-( > > > > Thanks in advance for your help! > > > > Don > > 74 Dart Sport with a 72 340 (being stubborn!) > > -- > Karl M. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- > > 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph > 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) > 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C > 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Tue Jun 4 12:46:53 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling - problem solved Message-ID: Don Rey was tuning his 340... >I feel a little stupid now, but the problem is solved. It turned out to be >the simplest of all the problems: I didn't disconnect the vacuum advance >when checking the timing. Both my dad and I had thought of that, but we both >figured it wouldn't make that big a difference. Well we couldn't have been >much more wrong. > >Disconnected & plugged the vaccum advance, checked the timing, and it was >way AFTER tdc! Tweeked the distributor back, idle became smoother and the >timing mark went to around 2-1/2 btdc. Plugged the vacuum advance back in >while it was running and she ROARED smooth and perfect all of a sudden! My >dad and I looked at eachother very content upon hearing that. Hi Don, I'm glad to hear about the 340. It's always satisfying to see something work so nicely. However I still have a question. Is your distributor getting fed manifold vacuum? Is it supposed to? That's what it sounds like. I don't know about 340s, but on every car that I've worked on, the distributor gets fed 'ported' or 'spark' vacuum from up in the venturis or somewhere like that. There shouldn't be any vacuum on the distributor at idle. The one exception is some heavily smogged Brand-F cars of the '70 and '80s. That vacuum circuitry is too complicated and off-brand to talk about on the MML. Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Tue Jun 4 12:59:09 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: Catch can vs recirculation Message-ID: >MH wrote: > > Anyone know the difference between a recovery system and just a catch > > can? I want to use a recovery system and looking at some it seems it is > > just a tube extending to the bottom of the catch/recovery bottle. Is > there any more to it than that? Karl M replies... >That's about it except the radiator cap needs to be for a recovery system. >Recovery and non-recovery caps are the same except that the recovery cap >has 2 rubber gaskets: one on the spring loaded center of the cap (the >pressure seal) and another larger one just under the stamped top of the cap >that seals at the outer edge of the filler neck. This forces the coolant to >go down the tube instead of out around the edges of the cap and it also >facilitates sealing so that the coolant is drawn back into the radiator >instead of letting air in around the cap. Karl summed it up pretty nicely. The only thing I'd add is that if MH is on a tight student budget, he can make that second gasket out of an old inner tube and use his old non-recovery radiator cap. That's what I did in my impoverished student days.... It worked, but the inner tube rubber had a tendency to melt to the radiator filler neck. 8-( Good luck! CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From duffys_hotrods at msn.com Tue Jun 4 14:23:30 2002 From: duffys_hotrods at msn.com (PHILLIP DUFF) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: More Headliner Stuff Message-ID: re Subject: Head Liner Hi There All! I have replaced headliners several times now and I really like to use an insulation that I have bought from a Upholstery supply store, here in Mesa, AZ I use Mesa Sales. The insulation is something like the jute backing that you use on auto carpets but it has the aluminum foil on one side. I use a spray can glue that they suggested, can't remember which one but it seems to be better than the 3M and comes in a large gold spray can, and I apply it in sections to the roof. It is about an 1/2" thick and I have used this on the past 3 headliners I have done and had no problems to date. My truck was done about 5 years ago or more. I also use this same insulation under the carpet. Glue the fiber side to the roof or floor, whichever. Good Luck and Happy Moparing!!!! Phil Duff '73 Challenger Rallye 440 4-spd >I just received a replacement headliner from 1aauto >for my '67 Dart. I haven't tried to install it yet >because I noticed there was something that I am >missing. I don't have any insulation to go in above >the new headliner. I was thinking about using carpet >insulation. Is that a good idea? Is there something >better to use? How bad would my road noise be if I >didn't use any? _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From RacerDan3 at aol.com Tue Jun 4 14:30:47 2002 From: RacerDan3 at aol.com (RacerDan3@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: AOL test Message-ID: <48D604DB.0C9EB060.027A12DB@aol.com> just testing To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From xhateehc at hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 14:38:55 2002 From: xhateehc at hotmail.com (Bruce Lindbom) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:17 2004 Subject: L Body Shift Rods Message-ID: Anyone looking for shifts rods for L Body email me Thaks, Bruce ************************************************************* ************************************************************* :) >From: William Parker >Reply-To: William Parker >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: Re: (No subject) >Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 14:34:18 -0500 > > > >Bruce Lindbom wrote: > > > > Great finding list, would like to wish everyone a great > > holiday,been driving mopars since 1970 (340 Duster). Have a problem that >I > > need help with (1987 Dodge Omni, 2.2 na 5-speed) runs great most of the >time > > but have a problem that is driving me nuts every now and then if stops > > running (could be on cold start up, or after driving for 1- hour on >highway. > > Does anyone have a suggestion. Bruce > > > > > Suggestion: "hall effect" reluctor in distributor >needs replaced, or the connector leading to it from the main >wiring harness is dirty/loose/oily. > >Bill Parker, South Central Indiana >'62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '65 Imperial; '65 Barracuda \6 >(Kathi's car); '68 Hemi Roadrunner; '68 Barracuda Fastback >383-S; '69 Barracuda Fastback now 360 (20 y.o. son's car); >'72 Cuda 340 >(and a couple of FWD 2.5's not mentioned) >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From steve.voelker at sdsu.edu Tue Jun 4 14:42:36 2002 From: steve.voelker at sdsu.edu (Steve Voelker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Headin' to San Francisco Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020604123441.00b91a08@rohan.sdsu.edu> Hi All (especially those of you in NorCal): I'm flyin' north (on the ground, natch!) on a Mopar-related mission: to score a killer 440 for a fellow club member's project car (a '71 Charger that I sold him). To avoid confusion, this '71 Charger is also an SE but it's A4 with a black half roof and gunmetal/black leather interior- not the yellow one I've been working on. It's not as nice as the current car and I'm helping him out with it- though he's kind of a boy-genius; I may actually be hindering more than helping! :) Anyway, I'm coming up Friday and I won't be leaving until Monday morning. I've been talking to Stu (of Mid-Peninsula Mopars) and CopCar about hooking up. Anybody else interested? Let me know and let's see if we can schedule a bull-session somewhere. 'Later! - Steve Voelker To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Kevin_Nelson at URMC.Rochester.edu Tue Jun 4 14:55:52 2002 From: Kevin_Nelson at URMC.Rochester.edu (Nelson, Kevin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: ACN Funfield registration??? Message-ID: <772F351CC7C2D211B9CA00A0C9DCFDFC0B565707@exmc1.urmc.rochester.edu> MML ACN crew, I tried to register my 69' Dart for the Carlisle Funfield for $35 but the only selection available on the Carlisle All Chrysler Nationals website is for the showfield for $35. Are the showfield and Funfield the same thing? How did others register? Thanks, Keith "Starpower" Bourgeois Marion, NY To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 15:16:29 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: ACN Funfield registration??? Message-ID: they call it the "show field" . you had it right. >From: "Nelson, Kevin" >> I tried to register my 69' Dart for the Carlisle Funfield for $35 but the >>only selection available on the Carlisle All Chrysler Nationals website is >>for the showfield for $35. Are the showfield and Funfield the same thing? >>How did others register? >Thanks, >Keith "Starpower" Bourgeois _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From racerdan3 at aol.com Tue Jun 4 15:17:26 2002 From: racerdan3 at aol.com (racerdan3@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Aberdeen Maryland Mopar Show??? Message-ID: <78EBB5BD.1FA79963.0338DE9B@aol.com> In years past, a friend of a MML member held an All-Mopar car show in Aberdeen, Maryland. Does anyone know if this person is going to hold this event again this year. I would love to drive my Pro-Street Challenger to the show now that I finally have it on the road. Dan To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Tue Jun 4 15:51:06 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: ACN (C@C) BBQ News Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C791975696D2E7@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 07:00:05 -0400 From: Raycuda >We still need, beer, maybe some cole slaw or salad. >Let me know what you would like to bring. Also, if you want to be >re-embursed, bring your receipt. I will volunteer a case of Bud and a case of Bud lite. >We are also going to need folks to help with all the work that goes into >the BBQ and the entire weekend. We are going to be without Charles >Hudacko and Paul Elosge this year and I can't tell you how much work >those two guys do. We will need about four folks to step up to fill >those shoes. So please let me know if you can help out. And besides >working in the "kitchen" we need folks to take an hour at the "greeting >and registration table" all you need do is sit in the shade for an hour >shift and greet any club members, check them in take their "lunch money" >and hand out name tags. This a great way to put faces to names you see >on the list. My wife (Deb) and I will work the registration table (I figure it's a good way to put faces to names) for an hour on Saturday and Sunday. We are driving down on Friday so I do not know when we will arrive. Also, this being my first trip to Carlisle I am not familiar with how registration goes. I used the on-line registration form on the Carlisle web page but have not got any kind of email response or snail mail plus my credit card has not been hit with the registration charge yet. Is this normal or do I need to do it again or is the telephone a better way to register? Also, When the discussion on ACN first came up and the confusion over whether there was rooms at the Best Western I made reservations at the Clarion Hotel in Carlisle. Is anyone else staying there? Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Daytona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http://pages.moparalley.org/dgc333/Index.html To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mparsons at dsf.edu Tue Jun 4 16:01:26 2002 From: mparsons at dsf.edu (Mark Parsons) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling - problem solved Message-ID: <001501c20c0a$ffe1f580$6701a8c0@tstonramp.com> George, I think a lot of pre-emissions cars used manifold vacuum for the advance. Also, some folk use manifold vacuum for performance reasons if they have a big cam or the like. For example, on my 360 I'm using manifold vacuum from the port on my Edelbrock Performer carb. With my cam and convertor (which is a little tight), the extra advance at idle is giving me a smoother idle and better off-idle performance. So, I don't think Don necessarily has a problem here. --Mark Parsons '65 Bel II '65 Valiant 'vert ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Chang" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:46 AM Subject: Re: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling - problem solved > > Hi Don, > > I'm glad to hear about the 340. It's always satisfying to > see something work so nicely. > > However I still have a question. Is your distributor getting > fed manifold vacuum? Is it supposed to? That's what it sounds like. > I don't know about 340s, but on every car that I've worked on, the > distributor gets fed 'ported' or 'spark' vacuum from up in the > venturis or somewhere like that. There shouldn't be any vacuum on > the distributor at idle. > > The one exception is some heavily smogged Brand-F cars of the > '70 and '80s. That vacuum circuitry is too complicated and off-brand > to talk about on the MML. > > Good luck! > CopCar George > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Tue Jun 4 17:03:08 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: radar gun Message-ID: <002201c20c13$9efd2f60$9a21b041@laptop> Northern Tools has it on sale for $79.99: http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=734431 &prmenbr=6970&cmemid=052902RH434 The URL link will probably line-wrap, so just paste it together in your browser. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Tue Jun 4 17:28:30 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling - problem solved Message-ID: <03eb01c20c17$2971cc20$0409b241@laptop> >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:39:50 -0400 >From: "Don Rey" > [snip] >So while I do feel a bit sheepish, I'm happy it wasn't something like a worn >timing chain. Hmm... now I'll replace those cracked caps plugging the unused >vacuum ports just for good measure. Caps are easy to make. Use short (~1") pieces of the appropriate diameter hose. Fill one end with RTV and let it cure 24 hours. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudazappa at hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 17:30:33 2002 From: cudazappa at hotmail.com (Cuda Zappa) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: ACN Funfield registration??? Message-ID: Yeah, their literature says conflicting things. They're one and the same. Last year I registered at the show. This year I'm pre-registering through the mail (cheaper that way!). Good luck and see yas there! Gary "CudaZappa" Viola, Middlefield, CT 64 225 to 360 'cuda / 80 225 Volare 4dr / 83 318 'doba http://www.completelycudas.com/ http://12.224.101.221/~cudazappa/webring/ > Are the showfield and Funfield the > same thing? How did others register? > > Thanks, > Keith "Starpower" Bourgeois > Marion, NY To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From unclecuda at hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 18:04:36 2002 From: unclecuda at hotmail.com (uncle cuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: NYC Upholstery shop Message-ID: Seats are cracked & split in my '83 imperial. Red! leather. Does anybody know of a good (cheap) shop in the NY metropolitan area? Car is my driver and will need some new leather installed on the fronts. TIA Rob _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thunder at n-link.com Tue Jun 4 18:18:15 2002 From: thunder at n-link.com (Steve Knickerbocker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling - problem solved Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020604181604.00a66890@mail.dashlink.com> At 02:01 PM 6/4/02 -0700, Mark Parsons wrote: >George, > >I think a lot of pre-emissions cars used manifold vacuum for the advance. A lot of pre emissions NONMOPARS that is. I once had a problem with my idle speed, either way too high or stall city. Turned out to be because I used the manifold vacuum source. Unless you have a compelling need to use manifold vacuum for your vacuum advance, don't. Steve To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From miked at darklair.com Tue Jun 4 18:26:31 2002 From: miked at darklair.com (Mike Donovan) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: 4-speed shifter Message-ID: Ok, for all you 4-speed guys and gals out there, is there a favorite shifter you use? In my 68 Charger I have a good old 833 four-speed. Attached to this 4-speed is a well-worn 1969 factory (?) Hurst shifter. I've been driving the car with this shifter for 6 months now, and it works fine, but there is so much play and the action is so sloppy that speed shifting is "interesting." With the shifter in gear, I can easily wobble the stick around many inches left and right. Some of this play is from inside the shifter box itself, and the rest is from the mounting of the stick to the shifter as most of the rubber has worn away. As far as I can tell there are 3 common options for this problem. 1) Grab a new Hurst Competition Plus shifter for $165 and the installation kit for another $90 for a total of $255, which gets you a brand new shifter, which should be a bit beefier than stock, with adjustable stops, etc. 2) Grab a new Chrysler/Hurst shifter from Year One for $280. This doesn't sound like a great deal and I really don't care about the shifter being factory original. 3) Send my shifter to Year One and have them rebuild it for, I think, about $100. I get to keep my shifter, it should feel like new, but it still won't be a Comp Plus and I'll be without a shifter for many, many weeks. Any thoughts? Thanks. -miked Mike Donovan - Highland, MD http://www.darklair.com - 1968 Dodge Charger 383 4-spd - 1988 Monte Carlo SS 355 - 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudadream at yahoo.com Tue Jun 4 18:50:39 2002 From: cudadream at yahoo.com (Mark Schwartz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Mopar Ralley at Ohlone, Sunday Message-ID: <20020604235039.68683.qmail@web21206.mail.yahoo.com> Bill, I was glad to give you the ride. If any MML members are in the San Jose area and my schedule allows, I would be happy to pass the favor onto them also. Keep Moparing.... tomcat 70 hemicuda vert clone (Wow, I actually won my first trophy with it. 4 years of more curse words then I can count and I can finally drive the thing...) > During the aftermath, I learned that "tomcat" > Schwartz's GORGEOUS '70 Hemi > 'Cuda had won FIRST PLACE it its category. I went > over to congratulate him, > and he offered me a ride in it!!! > > Had I died and gone to heaven??? LOL! > > He took me for a very exciting ride (sometimes at > full-tilt) and for a while > it was 1970 again.... LOL! > > Let's see; I was 32 year old in 1970.... so, that > was a rare treat! > > I can tell you one thing; That 426 Hemi car HAULS > THE MAIL!!! And, it's a > 4-speed!!! > > Yes, that made not only my day, but my entire week! > Wouldn't have missed it > for anything! I'd never ridden in a genuine 426 > Hemi car before, and it's > everything they said it would be... believe it! > > Thanks so much, Mr. Tomcat!!! Oh, and of course, > the top was DOWN!!! LOL! > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From don.rey at uconn.edu Tue Jun 4 18:53:16 2002 From: don.rey at uconn.edu (Don Rey) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling - problem solved Message-ID: <01cf01c20c23$000966c0$0400a8c0@radon> Interesting... well it was an easy enough switch. There was no spark plug damage or indications of other damage... and when I did switch it over to ported vacuum, there wasn't much noticeable difference. I'm using an Edelbrock Performer carb and I have no idea about the cams. But my vacuum advance is on ported vacuum now so I should be all set. (At one point I had both vacuum ports connected to separate gauges... Interesting how differently they acted. I can go into a little more detail if anyone's interested.) Thanks again! Don 74 Dart Sport 340 www.pbase.com/radon220/my_dodge_dart Connecticut ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Knickerbocker" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 7:18 PM Subject: Re: Rough idle, stalls, and dieseling - problem solved > At 02:01 PM 6/4/02 -0700, Mark Parsons wrote: > > >George, > > > >I think a lot of pre-emissions cars used manifold vacuum for the advance. > > A lot of pre emissions NONMOPARS that is. I once had a problem with my > idle speed, either way too high or stall city. Turned out to be because I > used the manifold vacuum source. Unless you have a compelling need to use > manifold vacuum for your vacuum advance, don't. > > Steve To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca Tue Jun 4 20:11:59 2002 From: andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: 4-speed shifter Message-ID: <3CFD655F.B363B321@dns3.nipissingu.ca> Mike Donovan wrote: > > In my 68 Charger I have a good old 833 four-speed. Attached to this > 4-speed is a well-worn 1969 factory (?) Hurst shifter. I've been > driving the car with this shifter for 6 months now, and it works fine, > but there is so much play and the action is so sloppy that speed > shifting is "interesting." ... > > As far as I can tell there are 3 common options for this problem. > > 1) Grab a new Hurst Competition Plus shifter ... > > 2) Grab a new Chrysler/Hurst shifter from Year One ... > > 3) Send my shifter to Year One and have them rebuild it for, I think, > about $100. I get to keep my shifter, it should feel like new, but it > still won't be a Comp Plus and I'll be without a shifter for many, > many weeks. > A few years ago, there was a guy on the MML who worked at Hurst. They will rebuild the shifter for you too. I would guess Y1 just forwards what you send them to Hurst and tack on a 'handling fee'. It's worth investigating anyway. Of course, you'd be walking while the shifter is flying about the continent. > http://www.darklair.com > - 1968 Dodge Charger 383 4-spd > - 1988 Monte Carlo SS 355 > - 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L > Or you could drive one of the other vehicles. Try poking around http://www.mrgasket.com/ and see what they have. (Mr Gasket owns Hurst) -- Andre -- Honk if you hate noise pollution To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From slow440 at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 4 23:18:50 2002 From: slow440 at bellsouth.net (slow440) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: 4-speed shifter Message-ID: <008201c20c48$18fce240$5a4a2243@mikeups> You can send it to Hurst yourself and they'll do it for about $75. Mike <> 3) Send my shifter to Year One and have them rebuild it for, I think, > about $100. I get to keep my shifter, it should feel like new, but it > still won't be a Comp Plus and I'll be without a shifter for many, > many weeks. > > Any thoughts? > > Thanks. > > -miked > > Mike Donovan - Highland, MD > http://www.darklair.com > - 1968 Dodge Charger 383 4-spd > - 1988 Monte Carlo SS 355 > - 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From RRun440 at aol.com Tue Jun 4 20:30:04 2002 From: RRun440 at aol.com (RRun440@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Homier tools Message-ID: <3A29C124.7A44FE3E.0018CF7F@aol.com> They are also in Stroudsburg, PA (Pocono Mountains resort area) June 6-9. If anyone wants more info email me at hatton@enter.net. I have the paper upstairs... Don't reply to this email, but use the other address if you need info. Stuff gets lost in here! :-) Bob H In a message dated Wed, 22 May 2002 ?7:48:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Kenneth Mayer" writes: >The Homier travelling truck will be in Denver from May 23-26 at Mile High >Station on Colfax. ?There was a multi-page ad in the newspaper, if anyone >missed it. > >Ken >:-) > > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Tue Jun 4 20:45:15 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Holy SMOKE!! Message-ID: <3CFD6D2B.B1699D40@ameritech.net> Whilst browsing e-bay I ran across a little item that floors me. Tether Gas powered Dooling Yellow Jacket http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1737233512 >From what I remember, these were model cars that were gas powered that you "raced" in circles sorta like the old handline controlled model airplanes. This is just a motor on a wooden base, current bid is $3,150 and the reserve is not met yet. WOW!!! -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From T3lightbronze at aol.com Tue Jun 4 21:22:52 2002 From: T3lightbronze at aol.com (T3lightbronze@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Aberdeen Maryland Mopar Show??? Message-ID: <16f.e95dc79.2a2ecffc@aol.com> In a message dated 6/4/02 4:32:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, racerdan3@aol.com writes: << a friend of a MML member held an All-Mopar car show in Aberdeen, Maryland. >> More of an aquaintence. His name's Mark Walls, it's on Stepny Rd in Aberdeen, sorry, don't have the address handy. Usually about the middle of the month. I'll post it when it gets closer. Keep an eye out for the announcement in The Bargaineer. Morgan Billingslea '69 Charger '72 Demon '71 Fury Custom Suburban 383-9passenger. '74 Duster '85 CJ-7 (Stephanie's Mopar-for now) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From T3lightbronze at aol.com Tue Jun 4 21:40:53 2002 From: T3lightbronze at aol.com (T3lightbronze@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: 400 rear main seal, 2nd time !*@%$! Message-ID: I never should have removed the old rope seal. So I just ran the car w/ the new "Mopar" brand rear main, which is the same as Fel Pro, the week old FelPro I removed had a Mopar part# on it. Still has a good fast drip to it. The general consensus on the first install was that I lined up the ends of the seal w/ the block and it should be offset, like 7 and 2 if the block is 3 and 9. No help there. I applied mineral spirits to the side seals per the instructions, they seemed tighter. They are seated all the way. Everything is clean looked good. Prelubed the seal w/ white lithium grease instead of motor oil. Torqued to spec. The seal IS in in the correct direction. So now I figure it's the crank, (which looks O.K.) seal retainer cap is bad, or there's play in the bearings and the crank moves too much. (seems unlikely). Is seems to leak more when it's warmer, I guess the oil is thinner, or something is opening up. Rope seals are made of packing material. Anyone have an idea to the diameter and composition of the rope seal? That's that I'm tryinig next, this just doesn't cut it. Any other ideas? Morgan Billingslea '69 Charger '72 Demon '71 Fury Custom Suburban 383-9passenger. '74 Duster '85 CJ-7 (Stephanie's Mopar-for now) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jpilone at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 4 21:50:06 2002 From: jpilone at bellsouth.net (Jarrod Pilone) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Holy SMOKE!! Message-ID: <000b01c20c3b$b36c05c0$b0c63fd0@n0i9p4> it does look like a prehistoric r/c car engine.. I should know, I race them kind of on a professional level now:) my last race: www.mopar-man.com/enduro.html Jarrod jpilone@bellsouth.net http://www.mopar-man.com 1969 Dodge Dart Custom 4 Door 318/Auto Y2 Yellow 1970 Plymouth Road Runner 'vert (Clone) 1972 Dodge Demon Big Block Project 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger 318/904 ----- Original Message ----- From: "paulholm" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 9:45 PM Subject: Holy SMOKE!! > Whilst browsing e-bay I ran across a little item that floors me. > > Tether Gas powered Dooling Yellow Jacket > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1737233512 > > >From what I remember, these were model cars that were gas powered > that you "raced" in circles sorta like the old handline controlled > model airplanes. > > This is just a motor on a wooden base, current bid is $3,150 > and the reserve is not met yet. WOW!!! > > -- > Paul Holmgren > Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 > 2 57 300-C's in Indy > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mkvien at wiktel.com Tue Jun 4 22:04:27 2002 From: mkvien at wiktel.com (Matthew Kvien) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: I know we talk about these from time to time and I am still curious as to their accuracy. Can anyone vouch for them with a actual time slip. A buddy an I are looking at them and are wondering how their 1/4 mile data compares to actual numbers. Later, Matt To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com Tue Jun 4 22:07:01 2002 From: Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com (Tom Hunsaker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: <3CFD8055.5060804@AutoTechUnlimited.com> I know that '67 - '69 Barracuda front and rear bumpers are the same. I heard that there were only 2 vehicles that are like this. Does anyone know which other vehicle it is? -- Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker Springboro, Ohio 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mkvien at wiktel.com Tue Jun 4 22:14:33 2002 From: mkvien at wiktel.com (Matthew Kvien) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Mufflers, which is quietest with good flow. Dynomax? Message-ID: I am looking for some quiet mufflers for a buddy's 400+ horse 360 Aspen. Big cam, 3500 stall, 727, single plane, etc. He bought the big 70 series Flowmasters because he thought they would be quieter and flow ok, but they are still pretty loud. I have also read that unless you opt for the small 2-chamber Flowmasters, they are actually more restrictive than quality turbo mufflers. From what I have heard around the MML, the Dynomax super turbos may be the way to go. We are basically looking for the quietest 2.5" mufflers that won't choke the flow. Any help greatly appreciated. Flow is the priority, but noise is also a pretty big issue. Matt To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From LARRYROBBINS1 at aol.com Tue Jun 4 23:06:54 2002 From: LARRYROBBINS1 at aol.com (LARRYROBBINS1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: holy smoke Message-ID: <16c.e9e3cb9.2a2ee85e@aol.com> C'mon Jarrod, just a 2 hour enduro? We run that for qualifiers!!! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Tue Jun 4 23:29:23 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: <3CFD93A3.7C3DD9E3@ameritech.net> Tom Hunsaker wrote: > > I know that '67 - '69 Barracuda front and rear bumpers are the same. I > heard that there were only 2 vehicles that are like this. Does anyone > know which other vehicle it is? > > -- > Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker Seems I recollect that the famous Checker had some interchangable body parts. So that could include bumpers. -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From n5lfh at zeecon.com Tue Jun 4 23:43:38 2002 From: n5lfh at zeecon.com (Greg Kendall) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:18 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: <3CFD96FA.9B509AEC@zeecon.com> Matt...I've yet to get all my wits together and compare the G-Tech when I'm at the track, but I get pretty equal numbers on the back roads as compared to what I know the car does at the track. It's hard to burnout, pre-stage/stage, calibrate the thing and concentrate on the run in a short amount of time. You have to start it after you're staged or it's bogus. Altho my son could accomplish all those steps and he was getting within a tenth of track vs. G-Tech time and just several MPH difference. Greg '71 Duster 340 Matthew Kvien wrote: > Can anyone vouch for them with a actual time slip. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From bmazur3 at shaw.ca Wed Jun 5 00:22:03 2002 From: bmazur3 at shaw.ca (Brent Mazur) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: <000201c20c50$ed416c80$8a7d6c18@videon90193> And weren't some VW Beetles like that as well? Brent Mazur Winnipeg, MB -----Original Message----- From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu] On Behalf Of paulholm Tom Hunsaker wrote: > > I know that '67 - '69 Barracuda front and rear bumpers are the same. I > heard that there were only 2 vehicles that are like this. Does anyone > know which other vehicle it is? Seems I recollect that the famous Checker had some interchangable body parts. So that could include bumpers. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From JefGruwell at aol.com Wed Jun 5 01:33:03 2002 From: JefGruwell at aol.com (JefGruwell@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: <62813847.5A469D5C.0B88BA23@aol.com> International Harvester Scouts used the same front & rear bumpers. In a message dated Wed, 5 Jun 2002 2:10:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bmazur3@shaw.ca writes: > And weren't some VW Beetles like that as well? > > Brent Mazur > Winnipeg, MB > > > -----Original Message----- > From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu] On Behalf Of > paulholm > Tom Hunsaker wrote: > > > > I know that '67 - '69 Barracuda front and rear bumpers are the same. > I > > heard that there were only 2 vehicles that are like this. Does anyone > > know which other vehicle it is? > > Seems I recollect that the famous Checker had some > interchangable > body parts. So that could include bumpers. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From JefGruwell at aol.com Wed Jun 5 01:33:08 2002 From: JefGruwell at aol.com (JefGruwell@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: <0FD17858.1D36B762.0B88BA23@aol.com> International Harvester Scouts used the same front & rear bumpers. In a message dated Wed, 5 Jun 2002 2:10:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bmazur3@shaw.ca writes: > And weren't some VW Beetles like that as well? > > Brent Mazur > Winnipeg, MB > > > -----Original Message----- > From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu] On Behalf Of > paulholm > Tom Hunsaker wrote: > > > > I know that '67 - '69 Barracuda front and rear bumpers are the same. > I > > heard that there were only 2 vehicles that are like this. Does anyone > > know which other vehicle it is? > > Seems I recollect that the famous Checker had some > interchangable > body parts. So that could include bumpers. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From moparman340 at hotmail.com Wed Jun 5 07:14:12 2002 From: moparman340 at hotmail.com (Bill Dedman) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: I have a warmed-over (appx. 330hp) 360 Magnum in my '72 Valiant. I decided not to used headers for various reasons; one being I wanted this car to have a relatively quiet interior. I did some research before finally buying a complete TTI exhaust system, which came with Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. This 2-1/2", mandrel-bent exhaust system is a thing of beauty (to me, anyway), but in spite of quality hangars and it not being any closer than 1" to the bottom of the car (nor touching metal ANYWHERE but the manifold flanges) it has *excessive* resonance (read: N-O-I-S-E) inside the car. It isn't particularly loud at the tailpipe tips, but inside the car at 2,000 rpm it is so loud as to be very annoying. I can't listen to my new stereo because of it! Conversation, at cruising speeds, is very difficult because of the sound. Another MML'er said the same thing about his Super Turbo-equipped 2-1/2" TTI system, and related how he had replaced the Super Turbos with Dynomax Ultra Flows with very good results. The Super Turbos are a reverse-flow muffler design, while the Ultra-Flows are straight-thru, like an oval-shaped glasspack, and are, in fact, filled with fiberglass with a perforated tube for the "straight-thru" part. Actually, the interior tube runs at an angle from the center entrance to the offset exit (or, is it the other way around?) Other than the fact that this tube is angled, and the body of the muffler is a conventional-shaped "oval" muffler, it could be a run-of-the-mill "glass-pack." I'm going to try a set. This other MML'er said the improvement was dramatic inside the car. That said, the guy at Perfection, another exhaust system manufacturer warned me about excessive resonance in systems larger than 2-1/4". I should have listened to him. Bill in Hayward, CA '72 Valiant 4-door/360 Magnum/904/8.75" 13.30/107mph in the quarter _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Wed Jun 5 08:04:28 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: Well, I have a related problem. Meineke just called and said that they could not use my FlowMasters without making the system very restrictive. I need another set of mufflers. Isn't there a test that showed Dynomax was the one that got the most gain in power? Also, was this the noisy super turbos that made the most power? Thanks. ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tigers at bserv.com Wed Jun 5 08:52:00 2002 From: tigers at bserv.com (Bob Tom) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020605093956.009f6cb0@bserv.com> At 11:43 PM 6/4/02 -0500, you wrote: >Matt...I've yet to get all my wits together and compare the G-Tech when I'm at >the track, but I get pretty equal numbers on the back roads as compared to >what >I know the car does at the track. It's hard to burnout, pre-stage/stage, >calibrate the thing and concentrate on the run in a short amount of time. You >have to start it after you're staged or it's bogus. Altho my son could >accomplish all those steps and he was getting within a tenth of track vs. >G-Tech >time and just several MPH difference. Greg '71 Duster 340 That seems to be the consensus with DMLers who use the G-Tech as well ... within a tenth but G-Tech is optimistic on the mph by about 3. Mounting of the G-Tech and the test road must be absolutely level to get this accuracy. BTW, there is another product that I came across while surfing (cannot remember the name nor do I have a bookmark) in which its accelerometer is based on a dual axis and thus does not require level mounting nor level road for 1/4-mi. data. Some other outputs do require the level though. The G-Tech accelerometer is the single axis type. Bob Tom Burlington, Ont., Canada '97 CC Dakota, 5.2L, 4x2, 44RE, 3.92SG, 4,075 lb (racing weight) RW: 231.2 hp 340.0 torque PB: 14.313 95.05 mph To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Wed Jun 5 10:06:00 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: <004b01c20ca2$810021e0$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dedman" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 5:14 AM Subject: Re: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos > > This 2-1/2", mandrel-bent exhaust system is a thing of beauty (to me, > anyway), but in spite of quality hangars and it not being any closer than 1" > to the bottom of the car (nor touching metal ANYWHERE but the manifold > flanges) it has *excessive* resonance (read: N-O-I-S-E) inside the car. It > isn't particularly loud at the tailpipe tips, but inside the car at 2,000 > rpm it is so loud as to be very annoying. I can't listen to my new stereo > because of it! Conversation, at cruising speeds, is very difficult because > of the sound. > I have a 3" system on one of my cars. Had Flowmasters and it was very loud. Switched to MagnaFlows. Result, the exhaust is less restricted, and the exhaust note is lower pitched, but it's still too loud. I may end up with two mufflers on each side. The Flowmasters were 13" long, 3" in and out, center-center. The MagnaFlows are 18" long, and otherwise the same as the Flowmasters. This is starting to get expensive:) Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Michael at coyotent.com Wed Jun 5 10:46:34 2002 From: Michael at coyotent.com (Michael Quinn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: I think Corvair's where the same from the center out. You could never tell which way the car was driving. Especially the early cars! Later... Michael in Fullerton, Ca 1968 Dart GT 360/727/355. www.geocities.com/michaeluser > ---------- > From: paulholm > Reply To: paulholm > Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2002 9:29 PM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: Re: Trivia Question > > Tom Hunsaker wrote: > > > > I know that '67 - '69 Barracuda front and rear bumpers are the same. I > > heard that there were only 2 vehicles that are like this. Does anyone > > know which other vehicle it is? > > > > -- > > Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker > > Seems I recollect that the famous Checker had some interchangable > body parts. So that could include bumpers. > -- > Paul Holmgren > Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 > 2 57 300-C's in Indy > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com Wed Jun 5 10:46:58 2002 From: Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com (Graham.Barnard@jdsu.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: did a quick search for dual axis accelerometer and found a couple. Tazzo Motorsports http://www.tazzo.com Vericom http://www.dragfactor.com/Products.htm the Tazzo is $160 and the Vericom is cha-ching! $2,975.00!!!!!! Although on Tazzo website they compare against the G-Tech ($140) and a Vericom VC2000 Race ($527). Graham. '71 Demon That seems to be the consensus with DMLers who use the G-Tech as well ... within a tenth but G-Tech is optimistic on the mph by about 3. Mounting of the G-Tech and the test road must be absolutely level to get this accuracy. BTW, there is another product that I came across while surfing (cannot remember the name nor do I have a bookmark) in which its accelerometer is based on a dual axis and thus does not require level mounting nor level road for 1/4-mi. data. Some other outputs do require the level though. The G-Tech accelerometer is the single axis type. Bob Tom To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Wed Jun 5 11:02:31 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: machine tools Message-ID: <049401c20caa$6824a1c0$0409b241@laptop> If anyone in northern NJ wants/needs to add a 10x24 lathe to their tool collection, email me directly. I'd buy this one myself if I didn't already have 4 of them. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From brian.hagen at verizon.net Wed Jun 5 11:43:40 2002 From: brian.hagen at verizon.net (Brian Hagen) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Vacation mode Message-ID: Can someone let me know how to set my account to vacation mode? I checked the website..but its still in a state of flux right now. Thanx, Brian To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudadream at yahoo.com Wed Jun 5 11:45:17 2002 From: cudadream at yahoo.com (Mark Schwartz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <20020605164517.15475.qmail@web21203.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Has anyone taken any driving school classes from Skip Barber or the competition? Can you please tell me what classes you took, how you liked them and if you would recommend them? I am looking in N. Calif, but would like to hear experiencs globally... thanks, tomcat __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wwatson at direct.ca Wed Jun 5 12:05:42 2002 From: wwatson at direct.ca (Bill Watson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: <005401c20cb3$3b568380$2e8c42d8@bill> 1959 to 1966 Studebaker Lark and Lark-type models used the same bumper front and rear. The rear bumpers on the 1962-1966 models had extra holes drilled in them for the licence plate guards on either side of the licence plate. Bill Vancouver, BC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Hunsaker" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 8:07 PM Subject: Trivia Question > I know that '67 - '69 Barracuda front and rear bumpers are the same. I > heard that there were only 2 vehicles that are like this. Does anyone > know which other vehicle it is? > > -- > Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker > Springboro, Ohio > 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback > 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tonyu at roava.net Wed Jun 5 12:51:08 2002 From: tonyu at roava.net (Tony Underwood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: <200206051355750.SM01136@barfo> At 08:46 Ante 6/5/2002 -0700, Michael Quinn wrote: >I think Corvair's where the same from the center out. > >You could never tell which way the car was driving. > >Especially the early cars! Nope. All Corvairs had different bumpers front to back. All Corvair front bumpers had a peak, all rear bumpers were relatively straight for most of their length, curving inwards at the ends. Early and late series bumpers did not interchange between series and in fact didn't interchange with anything else either for that matter, the way some Mustang and Maverick bumpers swapped etc. By the way, *I* can sure tell which way the Corvairs I own are driving... tony.. many odd cars and a Barracuda that has swapable bumpers To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rolney at aed.delphiauto.com Wed Jun 5 12:54:12 2002 From: rolney at aed.delphiauto.com (Ross D. Olney) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <007f01c20cba$001ac540$1876fa90@aed.delcoelect.com> I took a 3 day advanced course from Jim Russell at Laguna Seca and loved it! First Laguna (maybe where Barber is now) is the greatest race track in the world, and the course itself was the most fun I had in years....and that's even though I used to road race for many years, it was still a blast....drove FFs and Formula Russells (with a Mazda engine). Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schwartz" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 9:45 AM Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? > Hi, > > Has anyone taken any driving school classes from Skip > Barber or the competition? Can you please tell me > what classes you took, how you liked them and if you > would recommend them? I am looking in N. Calif, but > would like to hear experiencs globally... > > thanks, > tomcat > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From baroon at robdiesel.com Wed Jun 5 12:51:57 2002 From: baroon at robdiesel.com (Rev. Baroonstein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: WTB: A body 8.75" axlehousing Message-ID: <01a801c20cb9$b2ba6bc0$64c80a0a@syncor.com> Does anyone have a 8.75" A-body axlehousing? Damn near impossible to find in the yards. Carl - Los Angeles To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From baroon at robdiesel.com Wed Jun 5 12:55:29 2002 From: baroon at robdiesel.com (Rev. Baroonstein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <01c001c20cba$315a0a30$64c80a0a@syncor.com> I haven't taken racing schools although I'd like to take Skip barber and Bobby Ores stunt classes. I did take some anti-terrorist driving classes at Alameda County Sheriffs Academy late last year (www.sheriffacademy.com) and I can't recommend them highly enough, very skillful instructors, we had lots of fun and learned a lot, and it's cheap. 1-day class was $270, 3 day class was $650 and a 40hour class was $1000. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Schwartz" > Has anyone taken any driving school classes from Skip > Barber or the competition? Can you please tell me > what classes you took, how you liked them and if you > would recommend them? I am looking in N. Calif, but > would like to hear experiencs globally... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From baroon at robdiesel.com Wed Jun 5 13:23:31 2002 From: baroon at robdiesel.com (Rev. Baroonstein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <024001c20cbe$1b378c60$64c80a0a@syncor.com> Who is the guy outside of Phoenix? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross D. Olney" > I took a 3 day advanced course from Jim Russell at Laguna Seca and loved it! > First Laguna (maybe where Barber is now) is the greatest race track in the To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wolfclan at pensys.com Wed Jun 5 13:32:34 2002 From: wolfclan at pensys.com (Wolf, Perry) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: <3CFE5942.160F1A7E@pensys.com> Flowmaster this! Dynomax that! What about Hooker Aero Chambers? They claim to have the best flow. Perry Wolf 67 Coronet R/T vert 90 Power Ram Hank Seestedt wrote: > Well, I have a related problem. (snip) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Wed Jun 5 13:42:01 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Possible trip to CA Message-ID: Karl M writes... >Looks like I may be making a trip to CA this week to pick up a car. Does >anyone need a car or anything else taken from AZ, southern NV or >southern CA to the bay area? Hi Karl, Keep us posted. It sounds almost like a MML festival this week... you, Ogre, Steve Voelker... If you get up here on weekdays, there's the DreamLot/In and Out Burger get together Wednesday evenings close to the corner of hiway 237 and El Camino in Mountain View, the Happy Daz Drive In get together on Thursday evenings at Bascom and Union in San Jose, and as I recall some Friday evening cruise-ins also. Whatever you do, you should drop in on Ukulele Ben at DreamLot, 941 Linda Vista, in Mountain View. < www.dreamlot.com> It's just off Middlefield Road close to where it runs into hiways 85 and 237. A few blocks from hiway 101. Very close to all kinds of fast food. It's a real eye-popper. In fact, I wonder if that would be a good place for coordinating visits from distant MMLers. I gather that Ukulele Ben is working there all hours of the day and night. He might kill me for suggesting it, but you could leave messages at DreamLot (650) 964-4699. Best regards, CopCar George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com Wed Jun 5 13:44:58 2002 From: Graham.Barnard at jdsu.com (Graham.Barnard@jdsu.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: so you're saying a Hooker has the best flow? sorry, couldn't resist. trust me Friday can't come soon enough. Graham '71 Demon ( Flowmaster equipped) Flowmaster this! Dynomax that! What about Hooker Aero Chambers? They claim to have the best flow. Perry Wolf 67 Coronet R/T vert 90 Power Ram To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rolney at aed.delphiauto.com Wed Jun 5 13:48:10 2002 From: rolney at aed.delphiauto.com (Ross D. Olney) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <00a901c20cc1$89fbd7c0$1876fa90@aed.delcoelect.com> Firebird Raceway...but I don't know who currently teaches there...they seem to shuffle around a lot. Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rev. Baroonstein" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 11:23 AM Subject: Re: Race Car Driving Schools? > Who is the guy outside of Phoenix? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ross D. Olney" > > > I took a 3 day advanced course from Jim Russell at Laguna Seca and loved > it! > > First Laguna (maybe where Barber is now) is the greatest race track in the > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Wed Jun 5 13:50:37 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: On 06/05/2002 02:32:34 PM wolfclan wrote: > Flowmaster this! Dynomax that! What about Hooker Aero Chambers? They claim to have the best flow. > **** Darn, Perry! I just ordered two super turbos from Summit, next day delivery! Well, they were only $31.50, and I checked TTI, and they are the same ones TTI uses. That was good enough for me! Well, the price was really. Especially with everyone else at $59.95 to $200 some! I'll let you all know! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; Burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Wed Jun 5 15:18:10 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: <00eb01c20cce$1cca9530$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 8:46 AM Subject: Re: G-tech meters again > did a quick search for dual axis accelerometer and found a couple. > > Tazzo Motorsports http://www.tazzo.com > Vericom http://www.dragfactor.com/Products.htm > > the Tazzo is $160 and the Vericom is cha-ching! $2,975.00!!!!!! Although on Tazzo website > they compare against the G-Tech ($140) and a Vericom VC2000 Race ($527). > > > Graham. > '71 Demon > I have a Vericom VC-200, and it must be level. It works very well if it and the road are level. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From visible at noisebox.cypherpunks.to Wed Jun 5 15:47:40 2002 From: visible at noisebox.cypherpunks.to (Force Adept) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: On Wed, 5 Jun 2002 Graham.Barnard@jdsu.com wrote: > > so you're saying a Hooker has the best flow? > sorry, couldn't resist. trust me Friday can't come soon enough. Yeah, no kidding. Friday will see me blazing a trail west towards SF on my new scoot, instead of sitting in front of a computer working on the worst perl code ever written. Not sure when I'm going to get into town, Voelker, KarlM, CopCar; but I sure plan to check out DreamLot when I get there. Probably sometime on Saturday--after riding all day, I'm probably going to be pretty beat. Of course, by then I'll have no contact info. I gotta get a cell. Perhaps I'll run into some of you on Saturday at the garage. -Ogre -- Ochressandro Rettinger->Reconsider Terran Ghost->Insane Torch Retro Dregs To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Wed Jun 5 16:28:08 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:19 2004 Subject: Holy SMOKE!! Message-ID: <3CFE8268.11365A41@earthlink.net> Yeah, like a lot of nostalgia stuff, a lot of those command some serious prices. Mint In Box, they're through the roof. You'd be amazed what people will pay for an old Ford or Mercury flathead now, though they used to be a dime a dozen.... And of course, there's the occasional half-million dollar Hemi 'vert... paulholm wrote: > Whilst browsing e-bay I ran across a little item that floors me. > > Tether Gas powered Dooling Yellow Jacket > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1737233512 > > >From what I remember, these were model cars that were gas powered > that you "raced" in circles sorta like the old handline controlled > model airplanes. > > This is just a motor on a wooden base, current bid is $3,150 > and the reserve is not met yet. WOW!!! > > -- > Paul Holmgren > Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 > 2 57 300-C's in Indy -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee http://www.moparalley.org Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tstroup at soucc.southern.cc.oh.us Wed Jun 5 17:12:33 2002 From: tstroup at soucc.southern.cc.oh.us (Tom Stroup) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: <3CFE8CD1.C680779C@soucc.southern.cc.oh.us> The G-tech claims to give you the actual 1/4 mile time, while most tracks use timing lights at the last 60 feet and give you your average speed the last few feet. The optimistic G-tech might actually be better. The G-tech does give you repeatable readings for your car on the same level road. So if you make changes to your car, and it says you are 2 tenths quicker, no matter what your actual track time was, it should now be 2 tenths better. I think that is it's most valuable use... Not giving you a definite time you could run at a track. You would have to calibrate for weather changes, also. I recently bought one, but I'm no expert. Tom The Obssessed southern Ohio Matthew Kvien wrote: > I know we talk about these from time to time and I am still curious as to > their accuracy. Can anyone vouch for them with a actual time slip. A buddy > an I are looking at them and are wondering how their 1/4 mile data compares > to actual numbers. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Wed Jun 5 17:22:37 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: <007b01c20cdf$7fe6aee0$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Stroup" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 3:12 PM Subject: Re: G-tech meters again > The G-tech claims to give you the actual 1/4 mile time, while > most tracks use timing lights at the last 60 feet and give you > your average speed the last few feet. The optimistic G-tech > might actually be better. > At the strip, the ET clock starts when your wheel moves out of the light at the starting line and stops at exactly 1/4 mile. The MPH trap uses the last 60 feet. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu Wed Jun 5 17:26:38 2002 From: gwchang at uclink4.berkeley.edu (George Chang) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: makin' plans... Message-ID: Steve Voelker writes from San Diego... >Thanks to everybody for replying to me. I'm not too familiar with >the distance between towns in the Valley, so I thought I'd see how >realistic this was. The cheapest room I found with 2 beds in it (I >like Eric and all, but we ain't sharing a bed!) is at the Motel 6 in >south San Jose. The engine we're after is in Vacaville (fellow >named Mike Mraz). What's the distance involved here? I don't have >a map handy and I'm trying to figure this out. If anyone has a >suggestion, let me know. (Karl, I know you're not from here either, >I'm just cluing you in) Hi Steve, San Jose is a pretty good location, as far as the Bay Area goes. It's in the south end of the Bay Area. I don't know about the specific neighborhoods, but the Silicon Valley MMLers will. Some Motel 6s are in better neighborhoods than others. Vacaville is about 100 miles north of San Jose.... on the road to Sacramento. On work days, the traffic is terrible, and the route goes through some of the state's worst commutes. On weekends, it should be much tamer. There's a back way on I-680 from San Jose to Vacaville. I'd recommend getting a map or surfing to MapQuest or some other online map provider. Good luck! George To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudadream at yahoo.com Wed Jun 5 17:53:11 2002 From: cudadream at yahoo.com (Mark Schwartz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: STEVE: Directions to Vacaville, CA Message-ID: <20020605225311.907.qmail@web21206.mail.yahoo.com> Sorry for sending this to everyone, but I don't have steve's email address... Steve, Actually I can help here. My sister lives in Vacaville. It will take you 2 to 2.5 hours (during no peak hours) to get there. The recommended way to get there is: 280South to 680 North. Take that a long way until you come to the 780/980 interchange. It's right after the Benica bridge. I may have the # above wrong. But either way, right after the toll booths, veer RIGHT. This will take you to highway 50 East towards Sacramento. YOu will go about 30 minutes on 50 to Vacaville. tomcat The engine we're after is in > Vacaville (fellow > >named Mike Mraz). What's __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MidPenMopar at aol.com Wed Jun 5 17:54:30 2002 From: MidPenMopar at aol.com (MidPenMopar@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: MMLers on the road. Message-ID: <82.1c923767.2a2ff0a6@aol.com> Hello all you busy travelers, if anyone is interested in getting together for a BBQ at my house on this coming Saturday evening, let me know. I am in South San Francisco and would not mind hosting a get-together for any MMLers interested. Maybe check out Dreamlot in the day and do this at dinner time. It sounds like a few of you will be in area very close to me. I live about 5 minutes form the airport (SFO) on top of the mountain with a killer view of the Bay. Heck I'll feed you guys a great BBQ dinner and maybe we can tackle that pesky 3310 Holley problem of mine. ;^) Anyone interested contact me personally. Stu 70 roadrunner To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From farichms at westol.com Wed Jun 5 18:10:57 2002 From: farichms at westol.com (Michael/Suzanne Farich) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Mufflers, which is quietest with good flow. Dynomax? Message-ID: <003d01c20ce6$3fecf360$cb34c518@piii550> You want to know all about them, go to http://www.classicalpontiac.com/ then go to "Store" and buy the "Silent Power" CD. It has audio tracks of about 30 sets of muffs tested on the same mule engine setup. It also comes with a printout of a spreadsheet that has flow data and sound level measurements on each muffler at several different rpm's. As far as 2.5" quiet systems, I run the 20" long case Dynomax Hemi Super Turbo #17749 behind a 2.5" Dr. Gas synchronizing "X" crossover for my daily driver. I drive this car 600 miles per week and I love it. It sounds throaty and rumbly idling around in parking lots but gets quiet when you bring the r's up. Even at WOT, the induction roar of the carb is louder than the exhaust. This system is good for 400hp and it would hardly help at all to disconnect the mufflers at the track even at that level. My weekend ride with more cam, ..., just got ordered for it a 3" in/out Dr. Gas crossover, 3" torque tech tail pipes (they make them for GM and Mopar muscle cars), and I haven't gotten mufflers yet. They will be 3" I/O. My choices so far are Goerlich Xlerator X123 or SLP large case muffs. The SLP will probably be the quietest, the Goerlich a little louder but not so bad, but both flow near the tops of the test lists. Muffler and exhaust technology has come a long way in the past 20 years since we all used 2.5" pipes into 14" case turbo mufflers. Those were quieter than glass packs but still cost .3 sec at the track. These newer systems today you don't even bother uncorking cause it won't help enough. Mike > > I am looking for some quiet mufflers for a buddy's 400+ horse 360 Aspen. > Big cam, 3500 stall, 727, single plane, etc. He bought the big 70 series > Flowmasters because he thought they would be quieter and flow ok, but they > are still pretty loud. I have also read that unless you opt for the small > 2-chamber Flowmasters, they are actually more restrictive than > quality turbo > mufflers. From what I have heard around the MML, the Dynomax super turbos > may be the way to go. We are basically looking for the quietest 2.5" > mufflers that won't choke the flow. Any help greatly > appreciated. Flow is > the priority, but noise is also a pretty big issue. > > Matt To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jimmieam at oro.net Wed Jun 5 18:07:43 2002 From: jimmieam at oro.net (Jimmie) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: STEVE: Directions to Vacaville, CA Message-ID: <002701c20ce5$ceb04da0$bd6c4dd1@jimmieam> THAT'S HIGHWAY INTERSTATE 80 (I-80) NOT 50! (I grew up in Vacaville *laughs*) Jimmie in Northern California 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger 340-4spd, Go Mango in color (original paint) http://briefcase.yahoo.com/jam_firefighter 1965 Plymouth Belvedere Station Wagon 360-Auto (New Project) 2001 Chrysler Concorde LXI "Rose" (Wife's car) ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Schwartz To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 3:53 PM Subject: STEVE: Directions to Vacaville, CA > Sorry for sending this to everyone, but I don't have > steve's email address... > > Steve, > > Actually I can help here. My sister lives in > Vacaville. It will take you 2 to 2.5 hours (during no > peak hours) to get there. > > The recommended way to get there is: > 280South to 680 North. Take that a long way until > you come to the 780/980 interchange. It's right > after the Benica bridge. I may have the # above > wrong. But either way, right after the toll booths, > veer RIGHT. This will take you to highway 50 East > towards > Sacramento. YOu will go about 30 minutes on 50 to > Vacaville. > > tomcat > > > The engine we're after is in > > Vacaville (fellow > > >named Mike Mraz). What's > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tstroup at soucc.southern.cc.oh.us Wed Jun 5 20:19:06 2002 From: tstroup at soucc.southern.cc.oh.us (Tom Stroup) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: <3CFEB88A.A0D75F1B@soucc.southern.cc.oh.us> That's what I was tryin' to say. The last 60 feet through sets of lights will calculate the speed. So it isn't at a single point, like the G-tech claims to give a speed at exactly the finish line. Tom Big Al wrote: > > The G-tech claims to give you the actual 1/4 mile time, while > > most tracks use timing lights at the last 60 feet and give you > > your average speed the last few feet. The optimistic G-tech > > might actually be better. > > > At the strip, the ET clock starts when your wheel moves out of the light at > the starting line and stops at exactly 1/4 mile. The MPH trap uses the last > 60 feet. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Abody71 at aol.com Wed Jun 5 21:09:37 2002 From: Abody71 at aol.com (Abody71@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: I have been watching this thread for a while and figured I would add my recent experience. My local track now requires street mufflers on certain nights. I ordered a set of flow-tech afterburner mufflers from jegs for $ 39 bucks each and put them on my 340 Scamp to replace the bullet style mufflers. It ran 12.20, 12.28 and 12.28 and was dramatically quieter. The previous best was 12.24. I do not run the Scamp on the street but with these mufflers I could. Jack 73 340 Dart Sport 72 340 Scamp(12.24@109) 72 360 Duster To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Wed Jun 5 22:02:30 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Where can I find fender tag info? Message-ID: <000801c20d06$9a300b80$7192fea9@computer> To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From slow440 at bellsouth.net Thu Jun 6 01:01:46 2002 From: slow440 at bellsouth.net (slow440) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Need E body 4 speed tail housing Message-ID: <004201c20d1f$a48c4a80$0ad81144@mikeups> Does any one have one they can part with, I broke mine. Thanks, Mike To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudabob at workmail.com Wed Jun 5 22:13:20 2002 From: cudabob at workmail.com (CudaBob) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Formulas Message-ID: <3CFE70E0.19759.2CBABC3@localhost> Someone out in MML land was looking for automotive related formulas. I have ten or twelve freely borrowed from? relating to HP, torque, fuel flow, injectors, etc. Also, I should have, [buried in my backups], a basic program, for MPH, which includes tire diameter, tranny and rear axle ratios, plus CI/CU, compression ratio calculators. The program was originally designed for motorcycles, but I seen to remember updating it to work with autos too. Any interest? CudaBob '65 - Angels Camp, Calif CudaBob@workmail.com http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cudabob at workmail.com Wed Jun 5 22:13:20 2002 From: cudabob at workmail.com (CudaBob) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Trivia Question Message-ID: <3CFE70E0.11587.2CBAAA1@localhost> > Tom Hunsaker wrote: > > > > I know that '67 - '69 Barracuda front and rear bumpers are the > > same. I > > heard that there were only 2 vehicles that are like this. Does > > anyone know which other vehicle it is? > > 1933 Plymouth, all models... :-) CudaBob '65 - Angels Camp, Calif CudaBob@workmail.com http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SouthernGypsy at att.net Wed Jun 5 22:19:07 2002 From: SouthernGypsy at att.net (SouthernGypsy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Differintial Noise Help Message-ID: <000501c20d08$ec2a74a0$3be25d0c@compaq> OK, I need help. I'm not an axle expert, I mean I know what models are which and how to do most routine maintenance, even adding in stuff like Lockers has never been a problem. But when it comes to "setting up" the backspacing, shims, etc. between a ring and pinion I'm lost. The patient is a '95 Grand Cherokee with 127,000 miles, the 5.2L V8, and the Full-time 4x4 system. The problem is a noise in the front axle, seems to be around the differintial area. It happens upon DEcelleration, it doesn't do it (at least not noticably) when holding a steady speed or climbing, but if your at crusing speeds (20mph and beyond), especially after it's fully warm, and you let off the gas, it starts a low roar. It's been doing it since it was bought used at 105,000 miles, at about 110,000 we changed the fluid and found someone had put in something almost as thick as synthetic wheel bearing grease... Changed it out with Durablend Simi-Synthetic in the appropriate weight. Noise didn't change, no better, no worse. Now at 127,000 miles I've finally got time to get in up on the racks and tear into it, hoping to see something obvious... But nothing is obvious... I can't find my "diagram" of what a good wear pattern on the R&P teeth look like but from my limited past experiance in the area and as best I can tell, it looks "even" to me. Definante signs of wear, but it's centered on each tooth and about the same on all teeth, about the same on both the Ring and on the Pinion. We were guessing when we started that it'd be a bad pinion bearing, but after getting the fluid out and the front axle disconnected and everything where we can turn it easily, we can't "Feel" any roughess nor hear anything unusual while turning it by hand, usually I thought with a bad pinion bearing that you could 'feel' something (a gritty or rough feeling etc. while turning it by hand). But nothing - it feels smooth as silk. Anyways, I can feel a little play in it, that is to say when I reach back and turn the input shaft I can notice that it will move about 1/4 of an inch or so back and fourth before the pinion teeth engage the ring teeth and can actually see the space move back and fourth between the teeth as I move it back and fourth. Is this a normal amount of movement? We're pulling the axles now in preperation to set the whole carrier out (and see if it could be one of the carrier bearings). One thing I noticed, it has an orange sticker stuck to the top of the diffential, I don't remember ever seeing this kind of sticker factory, though it may well be and I just haven't seen one like it before. It's orange and Says on line one "PN: 0476-9", and on line two "003062213", with line three being a bar code. I was wondering if it's not factory, if this sticker could mean this axle has been replaced before... Anyone know? The only other sticker still on the axle is the remnants of one which was white with red lettering which wraped around the axle housing which does look like factory ones I've seen before, there is not enough of this one left to read anymore though. Does anyone else have any sugestions or ideas on this subject? Ideas on what's making such a noise? Anyone ever had this before? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From JefGruwell at aol.com Wed Jun 5 22:20:17 2002 From: JefGruwell at aol.com (JefGruwell@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: <31DC49BC.03982A2D.0B88BA23@aol.com> I'm running a complete 2.5 TTI exaust sytem with TTI ceramic headers, and per Sam at TTI's recommendation, I got the Dynomax superturbos. My 318 Challenger is not noisey, but has a mild rumble. I'm totally satisfied with the TTI system with Dynomax, except the headers hang down a little to low. When I install my 340, I'll get new motor mounts. I hope that helps. On my Challenger, I plan on installing DYNOMAT under the carpet & in the trunk. The weatherstripping whistle on the FWY, is louder than the mufflers. On one of my Scouts with an I.H. 304 V8, I ran a set of 3 chamber flowmaster on 2" exhaust. Very LOUD. Sounded nice on the freeway, or off road in low range 3,000 rpm, but it was rude in town. I was sorry to get the Flows. On another Scout with an I.H. 392 V8, I thought I'd try out a pair of Hooker Aeroflows through a 2" Dual Exhuast. At first they were fairly quite compared to the Flowmasters, but after a few months they became unbearably loud, and contiued to get louder, as time went on. Remided me of Cheap Glass Packs. Actually, they were so loud it was embarrassing. I didn't like the Hookers at all. Ca. Jeff (Likes Dynomax in town & on the Road) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SouthernGypsy at att.net Wed Jun 5 22:23:09 2002 From: SouthernGypsy at att.net (SouthernGypsy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Where can I find fender tag info? Message-ID: <001601c20d09$7c504fa0$3be25d0c@compaq> If you mean codes for options on the fender tag you can find some at; www.classic-mopars.com > > Where can I find fender tag info? > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mkvien at wiktel.com Wed Jun 5 22:44:52 2002 From: mkvien at wiktel.com (Matthew Kvien) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Mufflers (Thanks for all the great feedback!) Message-ID: I have some good ideas of what we are looking for now, and it will even be cheaper with the quieter mufflers. I personally have 2.5" 40 series Flowmasters on my 440 68 Coronet, and I love the roar. My buddy wants to go the more stealth route. Thanks again, Matt -----Original Message----- From: Tom Hand [mailto:thand@kc.rr.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 9:47 PM To: Matthew Kvien Cc: farichms@westol.com Subject: Re: Mufflers, which is quietest with good flow. Dynomax? Matthew, I am sort of a muffler nut and have tested lots of them on Pontiacs and 340s. You need Dynomax 17748s for your car. If the Aspen can use 20"long case mufflers, these are perfect! Very quiet but rumbly, flow great, and are only $39 from Summit or Jegs. Bear in mind all will resonate around 2200 with the 340s or 360s and with an auto and loose converter, you tend to stay around that point more often then with a manual. I have these mufflers on my 69 340 4 speed Cuda. Wonderful mufflers. You are right on about Flowmasters. Offset inlet ones tend to be more restrictive then generic "turbo-style mufflers. They might run okay but are really loud sometimes! Tom Hand ----- Original Message ----- From: Matthew Kvien To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:14 PM Subject: Mufflers, which is quietest with good flow. Dynomax? > I am looking for some quiet mufflers for a buddy's 400+ horse 360 Aspen. > Big cam, 3500 stall, 727, single plane, etc. He bought the big 70 series > Flowmasters because he thought they would be quieter and flow ok, but they > are still pretty loud. I have also read that unless you opt for the small > 2-chamber Flowmasters, they are actually more restrictive than quality turbo > mufflers. From what I have heard around the MML, the Dynomax super turbos > may be the way to go. We are basically looking for the quietest 2.5" > mufflers that won't choke the flow. Any help greatly appreciated. Flow is > the priority, but noise is also a pretty big issue. > > Matt > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net Thu Jun 6 00:15:58 2002 From: dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net (dodgeboys) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: 400 rear main seal, 2nd time !*@%$! Message-ID: <200206060015.AA145359060@mail.ev1.net> rope seals seal much better -- REAL MEN DRIVE MOPARS -- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From PiscesM21 at aol.com Thu Jun 6 00:14:53 2002 From: PiscesM21 at aol.com (PiscesM21@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Next shows Message-ID: <198.7d2f883.2a3049cd@aol.com> When are the next car shows in Northern California, or Mopar swap meets? I just got my car painted although its not 100% it still looks nice. Charles in Calif. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From farichms at westol.com Thu Jun 6 05:41:30 2002 From: farichms at westol.com (Michael/Suzanne Farich) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Mufflers, which is quietest with good flow. Dynomax? Message-ID: <000001c20d46$b7da3d00$2833c518@piii550> >From the man, Tom Hand... Tell them I run 17748 Dynomaxs on my 69 340 Cuda and they are the closest thing to stock sound you can get with performance coming along for the ride :). Anything else will roar and be extremely loud. They all will resonate around 2200 and that is why the stock mufflers were tuned as they were and that is why they had small tailpipes with 1.65" openings in the chrome tips or in the case of Dusters, the noise reduction tailpipes that aimed down at the ground. I have tried them all!!! I even ran 1977 Cadillac mufflers on my 340. Overall, the best ones were the larger case OEM Hemi mufflers but those were only 2.25". The Superturbo 17748 is the closest you can get to this sound with better performance. 340s are tough to quiet down but trust me, I tried all the ones before I settled on these. 17748s are offset in center out 20" long with 2.5" in and out. Wonderful mufflers!!! Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael/Suzanne Farich To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 6:10 PM Subject: Mufflers, which is quietest with good flow. Dynomax? > > I am looking for some quiet mufflers for a buddy's 400+ horse 360 Aspen. > > Big cam, 3500 stall, 727, single plane, etc. He bought the big 70 series > > Flowmasters because he thought they would be quieter and flow ok, but they > > are still pretty loud. I have also read that unless you opt for the small > > 2-chamber Flowmasters, they are actually more restrictive than > > quality turbo > > mufflers. From what I have heard around the MML, the Dynomax super turbos > > may be the way to go. We are basically looking for the quietest 2.5" > > mufflers that won't choke the flow. Any help greatly > > appreciated. Flow is > > the priority, but noise is also a pretty big issue. > > > > Matt To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Thu Jun 6 06:36:24 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: G-tech meters again Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C791975696D2F0@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 09:52:00 -0400 From: Bob Tom >At 11:43 PM 6/4/02 -0500, you wrote: >>Matt...I've yet to get all my wits together and compare the G-Tech when I'm at >>the track, but I get pretty equal numbers on the back roads as compared to >>what >>I know the car does at the track. It's hard to burnout, pre-stage/stage, >>calibrate the thing and concentrate on the run in a short amount of time. You >>have to start it after you're staged or it's bogus. Altho my son could >>accomplish all those steps and he was getting within a tenth of track vs. >>G-Tech time and just several MPH difference. Greg '71 Duster 340 >That seems to be the consensus with DMLers who use the G-Tech as well > . ... within a tenth but G-Tech is optimistic on the mph by about 3. Mounting >of the G-Tech and the test road must be absolutely level to get this accuracy. It's not that the G-Tech is optimistic on the mph's it is because the measurement is different than at the track. THe mph reported at the track is an average calculate over the last 60 ft. The G-Tech reports the mph at the end of the 1/4. I have never run down the track with a G-Tech but my buddy that owns ones (and I borrow) has on several occasions has. Again, he reports the same with in a .1 of his track et's. Another anomaly of the G-tech compared to the track is the g-tech starts recording time the instant the car starts to move. Depending on how you stage you could move a few inches before your time recording is started at the track. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Daytona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http://pages.moparalley.org/dgc333/Index.html To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Thu Jun 6 07:20:30 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C791975696D2F1@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> ate: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 12:14:12 +0000 From: "Bill Dedman" >This 2-1/2", mandrel-bent exhaust system is a thing of beauty (to me, >anyway), but in spite of quality hangars and it not being any closer than 1" >to the bottom of the car (nor touching metal ANYWHERE but the manifold >flanges) it has *excessive* resonance (read: N-O-I-S-E) inside the car. It >isn't particularly loud at the tailpipe tips, but inside the car at 2,000 >rpm it is so loud as to be very annoying. I can't listen to my new stereo >because of it! Conversation, at cruising speeds, is very difficult because >of the sound. > >Another MML'er said the same thing about his Super Turbo-equipped 2-1/2" TTI >system, and related how he had replaced the Super Turbos with Dynomax Ultra >Flows with very good results. The Super Turbos are a reverse-flow muffler >design, while the Ultra-Flows are straight-thru, like an oval-shaped >glasspack, and are, in fact, filled with fiberglass with a perforated tube >for the "straight-thru" part. Actually, the interior tube runs at an angle >from the center entrance to the offset exit (or, is it the other way >around?) Other than the fact that this tube is angled, and the body of the >muffler is a conventional-shaped "oval" muffler, it could be a >run-of-the-mill "glass-pack." Over the years I have used Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers as a general muffler for exhaust system repairs on my verhicles and have found them to be the same or just a little louder than stock replacement mufflers. I curretnly have one under my Daytona Shelby turbo and was actually disappointed that I did not get any appreciable change in the sound level. There is more of a burble at idle but on the road no distinguishable change. Interestingly though, the cat on this car started to break up and plug the exhaust a few months back so I removed it and replaced it with a straight piece of pipe. The noise level still did not chage appreciablely but I did pick up an interior resonance. On the Daytona it is a very narrow band resonance so it's not hard to keep the rpm above or below the point that it happens but it is annoying when I am right on it. The issue of a resonance is as much a function of the total exhaust as the muffler. I think you showed this by having less resonance with the Ultra-Flow than with the Super Turbo. I would bet that if you measired the sound level outside the car the Ultr-Flow would be louder even though you reduced the interior resonance. Making this swap on another engine, header, exahust combination is just as likely to make the situation worse. FYI, I can change the intensity (but can't elminate it) of the resonance in my Barracuda by sliding the chrome tips on the end of the pipes back and forth effectively changing the length of the exhaust. The standard Dynomax Super Turbo only has a 14" long case. If the desire is to have a quieter car the Hemi Super Turbo version might be a better choice(it has an 18" long case). Same with Flowmasters, they have several differnt styles of mufflers and the three chambers ones are quieter and the ones with Delta Flow even more quiet. I have a friend with a hot 360 6-pack with TTI headers and 2 1/2" exhaust in his cuda. He has Flowmaster 50 series Delta Flow mufflers. It has a great sound and is not at all loud or annoying. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Daytona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http://pages.moparalley.org/dgc333/Index.html To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Thu Jun 6 08:14:04 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:20 2004 Subject: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos Message-ID: <002701c20d5c$08aea210$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 7:09 PM Subject: Re: Noisy Dynomax Super Turbos > I have been watching this thread for a while and figured I would add my > recent experience. My local track now requires street mufflers on certain > nights. I ordered a set of flow-tech afterburner mufflers from jegs for $ 39 > bucks each and put them on my 340 Scamp to replace the bullet style mufflers. > It ran 12.20, 12.28 and 12.28 and was dramatically quieter. The previous best > was 12.24. I do not run the Scamp on the street but with these mufflers I > could. > > Jack Jack, What size exhaust system? Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Thu Jun 6 09:22:25 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Mufflers, which is quietest with good flow. Dynomax? Message-ID: On 06/06/2002 06:41:30 AM Tom Hand wrote: > Tell them I run 17748 Dynomaxs on my 69 340 Cuda and they are the closest thing to stock sound you can get with performance coming along for the ride :). Anything else will roar and be extremely loud. > **** Tom, I have ordered overnight, 17733s. Yours are the same, almost, except that the offset is slightly different, and the length of yours are 25 1/2 inches, while mine will be 18 1/2 inches. Since Dynomax does their measurements by including the end pipes, these measurements have to be translated to compare with FlowMaster. Mine is equivelent to a 14 inch FlowMaster, which I don't think they have, so it is really equivelent to a 13 inch FlowMaster. Mine should be less restrictive and a little louder. These are the same mufflers that TTI uses on their E body 2 1/2 inch exhaust kit. Now, I have been talking to several about a muffler shootout I saw in one of the Mopar mags, and I did see such a thing. I looked everywhere last night and could not find it! The only thing I remember is that FlowMaster did not do that well, and Dynomax was very high, possibly the best of the test. However, none of the ones tested were that far off from each other. ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From lrherman at optonline.net Thu Jun 6 09:47:18 2002 From: lrherman at optonline.net (lrherman@optonline.net) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Mufflers, which is quietest with good flow? Message-ID: My 2/100 $... I've had the three chamber Flowmasters on my Dart for around eight years and they haven't rusted through yet. They're connected to stock '69 340 exhaust manifolds, a 2 1/4" dual pipe setup with "H" pipe, and "A" body chrome exhaust tips. They DO resonate at lower-middle range revs, but sound great in general and seem to flow well (no scientific data to back this up, just "seat-of-pants" impression). The resonation may be LESS annoying in a convertible than a fixed roof vehicle since there are so many other noises to compete with AND no fixed roof to resonate off of. There's a sound clip of my car on my website. Works best with a subwoofer, and perhaps you'll get an idea of what a slightly warmer than stock 340 with Flowmaster three chambers sounds like. I've heard many varieties of engine/exhaust system and I still think that my combination sounds best of all, though I *may* be a bit biased. :-) Good luck. -- Lee Herman lrherman@optonline.net - AOL IM ID "dart69dude" - http://www.lhmopars.com 1969 Dodge Dart GT Convertible - 340-4bbl/A727 1987 Dodge Diplomat SE - Loaded! 1993 Toyota Camry V6 XLE, 1999 Toyota Camry Solara SLE V6 -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From belvedere1 at juno.com Thu Jun 6 16:35:59 2002 From: belvedere1 at juno.com (Thomas B Lawson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Auto Math Message-ID: <20020606.173559.-1967485.1.belvedere1@juno.com> Someone was looking for an auto math site. I stumbled across this. 5 weeks till Carlisle. Tom Lawson NJ http://www.pcpages.com/belvedere1/Max.html 66 Plymouth Satellite 73 Dodge Dart Sport 1980 Aspen belvedereI IM ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Thu Jun 6 18:41:34 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Homier Message-ID: <053401c20db3$b365de60$0409b241@laptop> If anyone in the Richmond or Williamsburg areas needs tools or "stuff", the Homier truck will be visiting: >A Homier Mobile Merchant Sale is going to be at the following location(s): > >4 BIG DAYS! THURS, FRI, SAT & SUN >JUNE 6, 7, 8 & 9 >THURS - SAT: 10 AM - 8 PM SUN: 10 AM - 6 PM >CLOVERLEAF MALL >7201 MIDLOTHIAN TURNPIKE >RICHMOND, VA 23225 > > > >A Homier Mobile Merchant Sale is going to be at the following location(s): > >4 BIG DAYS! THURS, FRI, SAT & SUN >JUNE 13, 14, 15 & 16 >THURS - SAT: 10 AM - 9 PM SUN: 10 AM - 6 PM >WILLIAMSBURG OUTLET MALL >6401 RICHMOND ROAD >LIGHTFOOT, VA 23090 > Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Thu Jun 6 18:56:54 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Homier, speaking of tools Message-ID: <3CFFF6C6.9ED44A88@ameritech.net> The other day I got REAL LUCKY and (this was the weekend that planned on hitting 3 swaps in 3 days) found the carbs I was looking for. The hunt dragged on for 5 years. Forgot about one "shock" I got while I was leaving for the day. This was on Sat., the second swap I had hit, not the Chrysler Classic. There was a "tool" vender near the entrance where I had parked. He was selling a mixture of old and new tools. Not a real big setup. So I stopped by and checked him out on my way to the Van. I scrounged around in the "used" bins for some extra common sizes hand wrenches (cause both boys are still using Dads tools with some regularity) found 2 that I liked, still somewhat grimy but pretty decent shape. Vender asked $20.oo for the 2 wrenches. WOW, says I, then I remembered, the economy must be hitting the venders hard to, so I passed! -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From My70TA at aol.com Thu Jun 6 19:02:49 2002 From: My70TA at aol.com (My70TA@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Engine help Message-ID: <26.28bf92c6.2a315229@aol.com> I hope some one can help a friend of mine. he just blew the 318 in his dart. he was hoping to go to carlise for the first time with a car to enter in the fun field. He is looking for a 318 or 340. He would even take a short block as he has the parts to put it together. He will pay any shipping if needed or will pick it up if close enough. you can reach him at YeloDart722aol.com. I hope someone out there can help. thanks gordon To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MidPenMopar at aol.com Thu Jun 6 20:13:34 2002 From: MidPenMopar at aol.com (MidPenMopar@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: You might be to into mopars if... Message-ID: you ask the guy painting your house if "street hemi orange" would look good on the window trim. Friday thread? Stu 70 roadrunner To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Thu Jun 6 20:21:36 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <001801c20dc1$ab840380$0200000a@dna> They talk about this subject allot on NASCAR radio on XM RADIO. If you have XM RADIO or know some one who does, listen for the call in number and ask them about it. They has a long talk Wed about the Petty school. All good. I have done the Jerrett Favre Adventure at Bristol and had a blast. Anyone that has not done this needs too bad. Petty's cars are built for this special, the Jerrett Favre cars were actual Busch and Cup cars. The one I drove was a Taurus with a 358 Chevy power. I couldn't bring myself to drive a Chevy. I could live with the Ford with a Chevy motor. You kinda got to look over that stuff though and go have fun. It is a ton cheaper to use GM motors. Aside the brand infringement, these things would rock. They were detuned to about 550 HP. The cup guys go around Bristol 1/2 mile at about 122mph. My best lap was 92mph. Defiantly go for it the first chance you get. Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? > Hi, > > Has anyone taken any driving school classes from Skip > Barber or the competition? To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Thu Jun 6 20:33:53 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Mopar VIN Decoder FYI Message-ID: Hi folks, I just wanted to post this here in case it is of benefit to anyone. I'm waiting for parts for my Barracuda and had some spare time at work these past couple of days, so I wrote a VIN decoder. (All the VIN research I've been doing lately sort've got me thinking about doing this, so when I had some spare time I went ahead and did it.) :-) Basically, you just plug the VIN into a box on the web page, and it spits back the info at you. (Really, its the same as looking it up by hand, it just lets the computer do the work for you.) :-) Currently, it has data for 1962 through 1974 cars. (Mopar only) The URL is http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/moparvin There is also a link on my Barracuda page (jonsteiger.com/barracuda) in case you forget the URL. :-) If have any problems/questions/comments, just let me know. Here's hoping somebody finds it useful. :-) TTYL! -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com Thu Jun 6 20:45:21 2002 From: Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com (Tom Hunsaker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <3D001031.4030701@AutoTechUnlimited.com> I went to Track Time at Michigan International Speedway ( http://www.tracktime.com/school3.asp ). It was the best $900.00 I have ever spent in my life! With 18 degree turns that are 73 feet wide and a track that is 2 miles around they really let you go. Top speeds are about 155-160 and you are aloud to pass on the straight aways. There is no instructor on the track once they let you go. Check them out! If anyone wants to go there, I would gladly go up with the so I can take their advanced course! Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker Springboro, Ohio 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Thu Jun 6 20:49:39 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <3D001133.E9EAD8AC@ameritech.net> Dennis Anderson wrote: snip > The one I drove was a Taurus with a 358 Chevy power. > I couldn't bring myself to drive a Chevy. I could live with > the Ford with a Chevy motor. You kinda got to look over that stuff > though and go have fun. It is a ton cheaper to use GM motors. Aside > the brand infringement, these things would > rock. They were detuned to about 550 HP. snip > Dennis Anderson > Johnson City, TN Hate to burst any bubbles but are you SURE that they really are using Ford motors in the "Ford" cars, and "chebby" motors in the GM cars. Thought I read somewhere that these are really after-market made parts and most all teams really are running very similar motors, Same chassis, just different skins. Course, I didn't do any looking up of info, but this is the impression I got from somewhere. Sorta like the "Ford" and "Chebby" funny cars, all running 426 hemi derivatives in drag racing. -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com Thu Jun 6 20:53:05 2002 From: Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com (Tom Hunsaker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Mopar VIN Decoder FYI Message-ID: <3D001201.5090607@AutoTechUnlimited.com> Jon wrote: > > > The URL is http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/moparvin > Good job! It works very well. > Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker Springboro, Ohio 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From carcat at ckt.net Thu Jun 6 22:08:05 2002 From: carcat at ckt.net (Carol Cation) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Mopar VIN Decoder FYI Message-ID: <3D002395.3B4A9EFE@ckt.net> Jon, My, you are sure clever! I ran our 63 Dart 2 Dr HT, the junk '72 Fury wagon, and my '66 Polara convertible. All right on the money! I had some fun with my Polara's VIN. I changed the second letter from 'L' to 'P' and it became a premium trim lever-l. I then changed the engine designation from 'G' to 'H'. It went from a 383 2bbl. to a 426 dual 4bbl HEMI! Oh, if it were only so--how many Polaras had HEMIs in them? Your decoder provided me with some amusement, and certainly is faster than using the FSM or parts manual. Thanks for posting it! Carol 1966 Polara convertible--low price class, lowly 2bbl 383, but she's MINE!!!! Tom Hunsaker wrote: > > Jon wrote: > > > > > > > The URL is http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/moparvin > > > Good job! It works very well. > > > > > Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker > Springboro, Ohio > 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback > 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From carcat at ckt.net Thu Jun 6 22:21:58 2002 From: carcat at ckt.net (Carol Cation) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: You might be to into mopars if... Message-ID: <3D0026D6.7C85BCF8@ckt.net> Oh, I don't know--I think Chrysler Turquoise would look nice on the garage! Don't forget that enamel Mopar Parts sign right in front! Carol MidPenMopar@aol.com wrote: > > you ask the guy painting your house if "street hemi orange" would look good > on the window trim. > Friday thread? > Stu > 70 roadrunner > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From JefGruwell at aol.com Thu Jun 6 23:48:11 2002 From: JefGruwell at aol.com (JefGruwell@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: You might be to into mopars if... Message-ID: <29023445.53C01C82.0B88BA23@aol.com> Here I am, workin another 12 hour Graveyard Shift at the Oil Refinery. I just took some readings, which are quite easy to for me to remember. The Temperature readings on the Shell side of Heat Exchanger number E-426 inlet is, 440 Degrees & outlet is 383 Degrees. Tube side inlet is of E-426 is 318 Degrees, and the outlet is 340 Degrees. Pump P-727 Discharge Pressure is 413 Pounds. Theres many more readings I have to take, but I think you get the idea. MOPAR Mainia! Calif Jeff ZZZZZZZZZ' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From JefGruwell at aol.com Thu Jun 6 23:45:13 2002 From: JefGruwell at aol.com (JefGruwell@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: You might be to into mopars if... Message-ID: <28A61860.1E5C7E01.0B88BA23@aol.com> Here I am, workin another 12 hour Graveyard Shift at the Oil Refinery. I just took some readings, which are quite easy to for me to remember. The Temperature readings on the Shell side of Heat Exchanger number E-426 inlet is, 440 Degrees & outlet is 383 Degrees. Tube side inlet is of E-426 is 318 Degrees, and the outlet is 340 Degrees. Pump P-727 Discharge Pressure is 413 Pounds. Theres many more readings I have to take, but I think you get the idea. MOPAR Mainia! Calif Jeff ZZZZZZZZZ' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Thu Jun 6 23:51:39 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: You might be to into mopars if... Message-ID: <3D003BDB.67663D41@ameritech.net> Carol Cation wrote: > > Oh, I don't know--I think Chrysler Turquoise would look nice on the > garage! Don't forget that enamel Mopar Parts sign right in front! > Carol I tried to talk the wife into letting me paint the Garage doors to match the 300-C emblems. She wouldnt have any part of that ( YET ). -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From cyberlaw at earthlink.net Fri Jun 7 00:16:37 2002 From: cyberlaw at earthlink.net (Steven T. Ekstrand) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <005101c20de2$8085af50$9faab2d1@hal> > Hate to burst any bubbles but are you SURE that they really are > using Ford motors in the "Ford" cars, and "chebby" motors in the > GM cars. Thought I read somewhere that these are really > after-market made parts and most all teams really are running > very similar motors, Same chassis, just different skins. It's a slippery slope. What is a Ford, Dodge, Chevy engine? Because it has the proper GM motorsports part number on a limited production race developed, race only part? Outside of Stock and Super Stock in NHRA and some lower level Road Racing, where do you find actual production blocks? Every part in every NASCAR engine is a race part. Every top fuel Hemi engine is using all race parts wildly different than anything ever factory produced. When I see most racing I see a generic car. I don't have much Factory partisan enthusiasm. It's kinda nice lately to see the Mopar Pro Stock guys doing something unique with the new Hemi parts. Compared to the prior years where the castings were the same as the GM parts. Nothing related to "Stock", but unique nonetheless. The Funny Car bodies are a joke. So? Mr. Szelci? That's a Celica???? Looks a lot like Force's Mustang, which of course looks like no Mustang I've ever seen. Gotta get sentimental for the old days when you could see a 1969 Barracuda body or a 1970 Challenger on a funny car and it was exact. And ProStockers started as REAL factory produced bodies in white. I really enjoy Stock and Super Stock for that reason. And I tend to prefer Touring car and Street based Road Racing to NASCAR, CART, IRL, F1. Watching the SCCA runoffs each year in categories like A-Sedan is great. Real pony cars swapping paint and driving the wheels of the cars using DOT R-compound tires. Great stuff in real cars. Where you can recognize the real strengths and weaknesses between makes. Of course.... Don't get me started on a discussion of "trunk kits" (the aftermarket part allowances that try to equalize the various cars). Now if only you could find a RWD Mopar competing in those classes.... Like the glory days of TransAm racing. -Steve Ekstrand www.conemangler.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tom at superbee.com Fri Jun 7 01:23:50 2002 From: tom at superbee.com (Tom Pettigrew) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: You might be to into mopars if... Message-ID: I knew a guy in Seattle who painted the inside of his house all mopar colors. Yea the kitchen was Go Green, the living room was Top Banana, Plumb Crazy was the hall and Tor Red was some other room. It looked pretty cool. nutty. On Thu, 6 Jun 2002, paulholm wrote: > Carol Cation wrote: > > > > Oh, I don't know--I think Chrysler Turquoise would look nice on the > > garage! Don't forget that enamel Mopar Parts sign right in front! > > Carol > > I tried to talk the wife into letting me paint the Garage doors to > match the 300-C emblems. She wouldnt have any part of that ( YET ). > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dakranz at premier1.net Fri Jun 7 02:49:52 2002 From: dakranz at premier1.net (Dave Kranz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: 360 rockers Message-ID: <3D0065A0.40048426@premier1.net> Hello All, I poked a push rod through the #7 intake rocker arm on my 360 while racing last sunday. I ordered a new one from Napa and received it today. The number stamped on the rockers is 010LH for the intake and 010RH for exhaust on the drivers side head. The passenger side head has 18LH and 18RH stamped on the rockers. The new one I got is a 18LH. My question is can I use the 18LH in place of the 010LH I broke? What is the difference between these part numbers? I'd like to get it put back together Friday morning so any overnight info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! BTW... They are 596 heads. Dave -- '66 Coronet 500 440 4 speed (project) '72 Scamp 360+++ 727 (sleeper) 13.89 @ 99.7 '72 Dart /6 904 (parts) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dakranz at premier1.net Fri Jun 7 03:02:50 2002 From: dakranz at premier1.net (Dave Kranz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Challenger discs on a Coronet? Message-ID: <3D0068AA.BD003C94@premier1.net> Does anyone know if '70 - '72 Challenger spindles, discs and calipers will work on a '66 Coronet front drum car? Dave -- '66 Coronet 500 440 4 speed (project) '72 Scamp 360+++ 727 (sleeper) 13.89 @ 99.7 '72 Dart /6 904 (parts) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca Fri Jun 7 06:59:04 2002 From: andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Mopar VIN Decoder FYI Message-ID: <3D00A008.3050609@dns3.nipissingu.ca> Jon wrote: > > I just wanted to post this here in case it is of benefit to anyone. > I'm waiting for parts for my Barracuda and had some spare time at > work these past couple of days, > Can I have a job there!!! :-) Spare time... what a concept. > so I wrote a VIN decoder. (All the > VIN research I've been doing lately sort've got me thinking about > doing this, so when I had some spare time I went ahead and did it.) :-) > > > The URL is http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/moparvin > I tried BH46A73456789. A fairly UNlikely vehicle. :-) -- Andre -- You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Fri Jun 7 08:29:31 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: The Dynomax Mufflers, the final story ... Message-ID: Thanks to everyone who replied to me about getting the Super Turbo Dynomax! I got a lot of good information including some privately that shows a test where the Super Turbo flows 70 percent. Compare that to the FlowMaster that only flows 59 percent, although someone on the DiRT list told me that although the FlowMaster flows less, it often makes more power. Some sort of scavaging technique, but I think it uses VooDoo! I do remember seeing in one of the Mopar mags, a shootout where they took a 440 in the 12s and tried several brands of mufflers. The Flowmaster was about in the middle in 1/4 mile times, and the Dynomax were the best. However, the times, I remember, none were more than 2/10s apart for any tested. Now, the best seems to be the Dynomax Ultra Flow with figures of 99 and 101 percent. So At first, I felt bad that I had already purchased the Super Turbo. Then I went to Summit to look at prices. The cheapest Ultra Flow is $99, and the Super Turbo is only $31.50! And unless you get a Race Only muffler, no other street muffler flows better than the Super Turbo for the price! Now, I know that I am crazy and I don't care about the noise, but I am not looney! I drive the Challenger on the street! Also, I am already into the Meineke dealer for $400 for the work, so the $100 mufflers are not an option at this time. Maybe later. Last night, I delivered the two Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers to Meineke, and the work will be completed today, X-pipe with the two mufflers. I asked, and they told me they could easily put in the more expensive Ultra Flows or any other that I pick later if I like, and it would be an easy switch. I will let you all know how this system works. I am so excited! Is this cool or what? Mopar or no Car, or Truck! I am so cool! Okay, I am better now. Everything is under control! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From belvedere1 at juno.com Fri Jun 7 08:50:13 2002 From: belvedere1 at juno.com (Thomas B Lawson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Auto Math Message-ID: <20020607.095016.-1916431.0.belvedere1@juno.com> Sorry I forgot to post the address. http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/index.php Tom Lawson NJ http://www.pcpages.com/belvedere1/Max.html 66 Plymouth Satellite 73 Dodge Dart Sport 1980 Aspen belvedereI IM ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Kevin_Nelson at URMC.Rochester.edu Fri Jun 7 09:07:49 2002 From: Kevin_Nelson at URMC.Rochester.edu (Nelson, Kevin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: 1969 Dodge Dart Air Conditioning question! Message-ID: <772F351CC7C2D211B9CA00A0C9DCFDFC0B56570C@exmc1.urmc.rochester.edu> Dear MML'ers, I have a 1969 Dart with a/c and a Slant 6. I just got the a/c recharged and it comes out ice cold. PROBLEM: I can divert the air flow from the defroster (top) to the heater (bottom) but I am unable to divert the air to the air conditioning vents (in the middle). Does anyone know how I can fix this? Any ideas? Are there vaccum hoses I have to check somewhere? Help. Thanks, Keith Bourgeois Marion, NY To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Fri Jun 7 10:11:28 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:21 2004 Subject: Mopar VIN Decoder FYI Message-ID: On Fri, 7 Jun 2002, Andre Roy wrote: > Jon wrote: > > > > I just wanted to post this here in case it is of benefit to anyone. > > I'm waiting for parts for my Barracuda and had some spare time at > > work these past couple of days, > > > Can I have a job there!!! :-) Spare time... what a concept. Heh! Well, I'll admit its a rarity - and its more like 5 minutes here, 10 minutes there... :-) > > so I wrote a VIN decoder. (All the > > VIN research I've been doing lately sort've got me thinking about > > doing this, so when I had some spare time I went ahead and did it.) :-) > > > > > > The URL is http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/moparvin > > > I tried BH46A73456789. A fairly UNlikely vehicle. :-) Heh heh heh! Yeah, it doesn't have any intelligence about that sort of stuff; it just takes a VIN, looks up the characters and tells you what that vehicle would be. Basically the same thing a human would do by looking it up in a book, just takes less time. :-) The "sanity checking" as to the validity of a particular VIN is left as an excersize for the reader, as they say. :-) I'm sure it would be possible to flag anomolies, but I have neither the time nor enough Mopar knowledge to even attempt that. With 1975+ VINs, a check digit was incorporated, sort've like a checksum. While not perfect, it goes a long way towards eliminating typos and flagging incorrect VINs. The earlier VINs don't have anything like that though. -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wwatson at direct.ca Fri Jun 7 11:20:38 2002 From: wwatson at direct.ca (Bill Watson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Mopar VIN Decoder FYI Message-ID: <004901c20e3f$463370a0$5e8c42d8@bill> I"m impressed! It works great and the presentation is excellent! There are a couple of hiccups should anyone try a Canadian-built 1963-1966 vehicle. Also 1965 Chrycos had an 11-digit VIN, while Mopars had 10-digits. (Chrysler Canada called their parts department Chryco prior to the 1980's, and until the 1980's Canadians referred to Chrysler products as Chrycos, and not Mopars.) In all fairness, though, no listing of Mopar VINs has the Canadian numbers correct - not even Galen Govier. A great job, Jon! Bill Vancouver, BC > > Hi folks, > > I just wanted to post this here in case it is of benefit to anyone. > I'm waiting for parts for my Barracuda and had some spare time at > work these past couple of days, so I wrote a VIN decoder. (All the > VIN research I've been doing lately sort've got me thinking about > doing this, so when I had some spare time I went ahead and did it.) :-) > > > Basically, you just plug the VIN into a box on the web page, > and it spits back the info at you. (Really, its the same as looking > it up by hand, it just lets the computer do the work for you.) :-) > > Currently, it has data for 1962 through 1974 cars. (Mopar only) > > > The URL is http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/moparvin > > > There is also a link on my Barracuda page (jonsteiger.com/barracuda) > in case you forget the URL. :-) > > If have any problems/questions/comments, just let me know. Here's > hoping somebody finds it useful. :-) > > TTYL! > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mrploww at udata.com Fri Jun 7 11:39:21 2002 From: mrploww at udata.com (J. Elsmore) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Installing 3.92 gears in Dakota Message-ID: <3d00e1b9.68.41@udata.com> Hello, I have a mechanic who is going to install 3.92 gears in my 99 Dodge Dakota this weekend. He did some checking and said he needs a special tool to adjust the backlash for the side carrier. I have been told it is called a spanner adjuster wrench. Anyone know where to get this? Thanks James To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Michael at coyotent.com Fri Jun 7 11:37:19 2002 From: Michael at coyotent.com (Michael Quinn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: You might be to into mopars if... Message-ID: If your child first word is: "Mo par" Honey did he say "MorePA" or "Mopar"? If every you time type "HEMI" for orange, no matter what spell check says. Later... Michael in Fullerton, Ca 1968 Dart GT 360/727/355. www.geocities.com/michaeluser > ---------- > From: MidPenMopar@aol.com > Reply To: MidPenMopar@aol.com > Sent: Thursday, June 6, 2002 6:13 PM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: You might be to into mopars if... > > you ask the guy painting your house if "street hemi orange" would look > good > on the window trim. > Friday thread? > Stu > 70 roadrunner > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ehenness at juno.com Fri Jun 7 11:39:27 2002 From: ehenness at juno.com (Ed Hennessy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Mopar VIN Decoder FYI Message-ID: <20020607.123953.3052.78027@wm11.nyc.untd.com> Jon Steiger writes: >The "sanity checking" as to the validity of a particular VIN is left >as an excersize for the reader, as they say. :-) Yep. Great job, BTW. You get to know some of these things--like a '29' for the V/L (Valiant/Dart) codes has to be a Duster or Demon/Dart Sport--'29' is a fastback style (you can see that in the A body Barracudas). They reused these codes--Aspen and Volare 2 doors are 'sport coupe' models and are coded '29' also. >With 1975+ VINs, a check digit was incorporated, sort've like a >checksum. That started with the 1981 model year when the manufacturers across the world standardized to a 17-digit VIN. Mopar VINs for 1975 through 1980 follow the same format as '66-up VINs--the only difference is that 1980 uses an 'A' for the year, and most of the model combinations were different between '66 and '76, '67 and '77, etc. so VINs were not duplicated without needing deliberate changes in codes. And the engine codes changed between '69 and '70 as well. If you wanted to expand the decoder, you'd just need a few new codes to cover the years to 1980. My '78 Volare VIN starts HL29D8B, for example. H and N cover the Plymouth and Dodge F bodies and D covers the 225 2 barrel... I may have the codes around here someplace. Ed Hennessy ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Michael at coyotent.com Fri Jun 7 11:41:54 2002 From: Michael at coyotent.com (Michael Quinn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: Not start to a spat, but "cheaper" Chevy motors is kind of pass?. The SBF is relatively "cheap" to build. You can buy every thing you want from Ford Racing to make a nicely fashioned 358 Windsor. The times have changed. Look at how the Late Model Mustang elevated our hobby. Remember just because it's "cheap" doesn't mean it's better. Later... Michael in Fullerton, Ca 1968 Dart GT 360/727/355. www.geocities.com/michaeluser > > The one I drove was a Taurus with a 358 Chevy power. > > I couldn't bring myself to drive a Chevy. I could live with > > the Ford with a Chevy motor. You kinda got to look over that stuff > > though and go have fun. It is a ton cheaper to use GM motors. Aside > > the brand infringement, these things would > > rock. They were detuned to about 550 HP. > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Fri Jun 7 11:51:55 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? LONG Message-ID: <006d01c20e43$a1d9d300$0200000a@dna> Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN Subject: Re: Race Car Driving Schools? > Dennis Anderson wrote: > > snip > > > The one I drove was a Taurus with a 358 Chevy power. > > I couldn't bring myself to drive a Chevy. I could live with > > the Ford with a Chevy motor. You kinda got to look over that stuff > > though and go have fun. It is a ton cheaper to use GM motors. Aside > > the brand infringement, these things would > > rock. They were detuned to about 550 HP. > > snip > > > Dennis Anderson > > Johnson City, TN > > Hate to burst any bubbles but are you SURE that they really are > using Ford motors in the "Ford" cars, and "chebby" motors in the > GM cars. Thought I read somewhere that these are really > after-market made parts and most all teams really are running > very similar motors, Same chassis, just different skins. I can't say for sure who actually makes this stuff, but I know Catapiller casts the new Hemi block and some other contractor casts the cylinder heads. Jesel makes most of the valve train. One of the crankshaft companys make the cranks. JE and a couple other piston outfits have a slug for pistons. Miller and acouple other rod outfits make the rods. Remember, all this internal stuff is made to the engine builders spec. The Hemi does use the 340 main bearing and rod size. Some of the engine builders are going smaller on the rod brg size. They have to keep the displacement 500 CID or under. They do this by changing the crankshaft. As they hone the cylinders get bigger, then the displacement goes over 500CID. They change the stroke a few thousands to bring the CID back to 500. The engine builders are funny when it comes to there block. They get one the way they want it and won't hardly replace it unless it is broken in two or something like that. There is a lot of power in the block. With all that said, it is true none of this stuff is stock. The engine is true to the make though. A Ford engine piece won't fit a Chevy or Dodge. However, at risk of raising some hair on the back of some necks, The chevy SB-2 head and valve train looks the same as a Dodge. I have not seen it, but, I have heard they are the same. The block is different in the bottom. I know Warren runs a ,what is called a Honda crank, because it uses a Honda rod bearing. As far as the rest of the Nascar the chassis are alot alike, they all use a ford 9 inch rear end copy. There not made by ford but are the same design, made by Strange or some aftermarket outfit. The body is close they all have to be 51 inches high, no less. They have a bunch of numbers that have to be the same. They put different decals on the cars to make it look like a Dodge, Ford or Chevy. > > Course, I didn't do any looking up of info, but this is the impression > I got from somewhere. > > Sorta like the "Ford" and "Chebby" funny cars, all running 426 hemi > derivatives in drag racing. > > -- > Paul Holmgren To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Fri Jun 7 11:57:45 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Installing 3.92 gears in Dakota Message-ID: <007d01c20e44$72d19ce0$0200000a@dna> Ask him how many of these he has done. I don't think that one uses a spanner to adjust preload and backlash. It is done with shims. Pinion depth is most important, has to be correct. Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN Subject: Installing 3.92 gears in Dakota > Hello, I have a mechanic who is going to install 3.92 gears > in my 99 Dodge Dakota this weekend. He did some checking > and said he needs a special tool to adjust the backlash for > the side carrier. I have been told it is called a spanner > adjuster wrench. Anyone know where to get this? > > > Thanks > James To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Fri Jun 7 12:43:23 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? LONG Message-ID: <007601c20e4a$d2811980$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Anderson" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 9:51 AM Subject: Re: Race Car Driving Schools? LONG > Remember, all this internal stuff is made to the engine builders spec. The > Hemi does use the 340 main bearing and rod size. Some of the engine builders > are going smaller on the rod brg size. They have to keep the displacement > 500 CID or under. They do this by changing the crankshaft. > As they hone the cylinders get bigger, then the displacement goes over > 500CID. They change the stroke a few thousands to bring the CID back to 500. > The big hemi cars I see apart at the track look like they have a small bore and long stroke. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net Fri Jun 7 12:55:41 2002 From: rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net (Tem) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Contact Info Needed Message-ID: <3D00F39D.3DCE9BB2@worldnet.att.net> Anyone have the contact info for Lokar? Thanks To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Michael at coyotent.com Fri Jun 7 13:30:49 2002 From: Michael at coyotent.com (Michael Quinn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Dumb Ass (me) Problem. Message-ID: I just received my new Mopar air cleaner. "the matching one". Anyway, the thing doesn't clear the hood. Now here's what I have. 360 Stealth Intake, 1" spacer and Holley Carb. When I put the cleaner on the no go. Is there a solution? Does Mopar make a drop down base for the air cleaner? What about a thinner spacer? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Later... Michael in Fullerton, Ca 1968 Dart GT 360/727/355. www.geocities.com/michaeluser To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From SIXPACKDAN at aol.com Fri Jun 7 13:48:24 2002 From: SIXPACKDAN at aol.com (SIXPACKDAN@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Dumb Ass (me) Problem. Message-ID: <199.7e5a7da.2a3259f8@aol.com> You could use the camaro answer and cut a hole in the hood! LOL Dan, PS: Moroso makes a drop base To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Fri Jun 7 14:00:26 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Mopar VIN Decoder FYI Message-ID: On Fri, 7 Jun 2002, Ed Hennessy wrote: [...] > > >With 1975+ VINs, a check digit was incorporated, sort've like a >checksum. > > That started with the 1981 model year when the manufacturers across the > world standardized to a 17-digit VIN. Mopar VINs for 1975 through 1980 > follow the same format as '66-up VINs--the only difference is that 1980 > uses an 'A' for the year, and most of the model combinations were different between '66 and '76, '67 and '77, etc. so VINs were not > duplicated without needing deliberate changes in codes. And the engine > codes changed between '69 and '70 as well. Oops! Right you are. :-) > If you wanted to expand the decoder, you'd just need a few new codes to > cover the years to 1980. My '78 Volare VIN starts HL29D8B, for example. > H and N cover the Plymouth and Dodge F bodies and D covers the 225 2 > barrel... I may have the codes around here someplace. Done and done. :-) I located some codes for '75-80, and I've got them plugged into the decoder too. I hope to be able to add the newer 17 digit codes too. I have *some* of the '81+ codes already, (up to around '96-97 I think), so I'm planning to get those in there too, then if I come across more I'll just keep plugging them in there and expanding the database. -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Fri Jun 7 14:15:19 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? LONG Message-ID: <009101c20e57$aa7a98a0$0200000a@dna> The Pro-Stock Hemi is not a Hemi. It is a canted valve type. It is called a Hemi just because it is a Chrysler. The only thing close is the spark plugs go through the valve cover. The head looks nothing like a true hemi. The other thing that is close is the block. The block is of the old design hemi. The crank is up in the block. They cut windows in the side of the block to get the oil away from the crank. The oil pan is designed to cover the side of the engine to catch the oil. Another thing is the RPM. The old 426 hemi wouldn't live long at 9500 RPM. Probably wouldn't make it down the track. You also can't get the required 15.5:1 compression in a true hemi. And, if you could, the pistons would weight a ton. Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN > Subject: Re: Race Car Driving Schools? LONG > > > > > Remember, all this internal stuff is made to the engine builders spec. The > > Hemi does use the 340 main bearing and rod size. Some of the engine > builders > > are going smaller on the rod brg size. They have to keep the displacement > > 500 CID or under. They do this by changing the crankshaft. > > As they hone the cylinders get bigger, then the displacement goes over > > 500CID. They change the stroke a few thousands to bring the CID back to > 500. > > > > The big hemi cars I see apart at the track look like they have a small bore > and long stroke. > > Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net Fri Jun 7 14:17:49 2002 From: dennisanderson1 at earthlink.net (Dennis Anderson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Contact Info Needed Message-ID: <009a01c20e58$041e4a00$0200000a@dna> www.lokar.com Lokar Performance Products 10924 Murdock Drive . Knoxville, TN 37932 865-966-2269 . fax 865-671-1999 catalog@lokar.com Dennis Anderson Johnson City, TN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tem" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 1:55 PM Subject: Contact Info Needed > Anyone have the contact info for Lokar? > > Thanks > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Fri Jun 7 15:40:34 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: 66 Street hemi question HELP Message-ID: <3D011A42.388A7D33@ameritech.net> I went to the Hot Rod Nats to search the swaps. Saw what is supposed to be a 66 hemi inline 2x4 intake and carbs. There is a part of the choke assemble on this setup I need to varify as to actually belonging on the rear carb. Might serve as an additional source for my resto project. -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net Fri Jun 7 16:31:45 2002 From: rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net (Tem) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Contact Info Needed Message-ID: <3D012641.5170D69B@worldnet.att.net> Thank you Dennis Dennis Anderson wrote: > www.lokar.com > > Lokar Performance Products > 10924 Murdock Drive . Knoxville, TN 37932 > 865-966-2269 . fax 865-671-1999 > catalog@lokar.com > > Dennis Anderson > Johnson City, TN > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tem" > To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" > Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 1:55 PM > Subject: Contact Info Needed > > > Anyone have the contact info for Lokar? > > > > Thanks > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tonyu at roava.net Fri Jun 7 18:24:26 2002 From: tonyu at roava.net (Tony Underwood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Race Cars? Message-ID: <200206071928640.SM01136@barfo> At 10:16 Post 6/6/2002 -0700, Steven T. Ekstrand wrote: > > > Gotta get sentimental for the old days when you could see a >1969 Barracuda body or a 1970 Challenger on a funny car and it was exact. >And ProStockers started as REAL factory produced bodies in white. > >I really enjoy Stock and Super Stock for that reason. And I tend to prefer >Touring car and Street based Road Racing to NASCAR, CART, IRL, F1. Watching >the SCCA runoffs each year in categories like A-Sedan is great. Real pony >cars swapping paint and driving the wheels of the cars using DOT R-compound >tires. Great stuff in real cars. Where you can recognize the real >strengths and weaknesses between makes. You hit it right on the head. When I go to a dragrace I get tired of the funnies and fuel cars real quick. Sure, there's loads of tech and super performance but I can't identify with it. They're not real cars. I like to watch stock class and super stock dragracing. That's a *real* race between cars running an engine I can identify, cars with bodies that came off an assembly line. REAL cars. And I like SCCA road racing, especially vintage stuff. Not so sure I can get into GT-1... they're starting to become fake cars themselves, very little there that came from a factory... plastic exterior and tube frames. Even GT-3 is getting extreme... In the quest for ultimate performance, some of the racers have left their roots behind them... and Media seldom seems to recognize that there are people watching TV who want to see REAL cars at a drag race, and not just funnies and top fuel... lots of video tape of top fuel and funnies, but where's the footage of the door slammers...? You get a slate with some figures on who won what, and that's about it. Almost no video of the *real* cars. Pro Stock has gone the way of GT-1, almost nothing on the car is factory produced anymore, I have nothing against funnies, fuelers, Pro Stocks... it's just that I like to watch the door slammers run more than the million buck plastic exotics. Hell, I'd rather watch street racing that top fuel... you see more, and it's a lot more fun. ...and you can participate yourself without having to have a dozen sponsors and a six figure bank account. tony.. I To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jimmieam at oro.net Fri Jun 7 18:32:38 2002 From: jimmieam at oro.net (Jimmie) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Next shows Message-ID: <009501c20e7b$a1433de0$d66c4dd1@jimmieam> On Saturday June 22 the Capital City Mopar's will hold their annual Mopars in the Park show. It is in Hagen Park in Sacramento (Rancho Cordova actually) details at: www.capitalcitymopars.com Hope this helps. Jimmie in Northern California 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger 340-4spd, Go Mango in color (original paint) http://briefcase.yahoo.com/jam_firefighter 1965 Plymouth Belvedere Station Wagon 360-Auto (New Project) 2001 Chrysler Concorde LXI "Rose" (Wife's car) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 10:14 PM Subject: Next shows > When are the next car shows in Northern California, or Mopar swap meets? > I just got my car painted although its not 100% it still looks nice. > Charles in Calif. > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MidPenMopar at aol.com Fri Jun 7 19:13:23 2002 From: MidPenMopar at aol.com (MidPenMopar@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: MML members are the best! Message-ID: <11b.11bdb5f2.2a32a623@aol.com> Hello all, I just received another shipment of T-shirts from Bill Link at Photos on line. He has been doing the T-shirts for Mid Peninsula Mopar and they look great. He is not only easy to work with, but very honest and dedicated to doing a good job! If anyone needs T-shirts, jackets or anything else printed on, be sure to check with Bill first. Here is his web site address to copy and paste--www.phototeesonline.com. and remember you are also helping a MML member succeed. Stu To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net Fri Jun 7 19:36:46 2002 From: dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net (dodgeboys) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <200206071936.AA33685716@mail.ev1.net> I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back with unknown engine installed? -- REAL MEN DRIVE MOPARS -- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From ldealba at msn.com Fri Jun 7 21:57:04 2002 From: ldealba at msn.com (Larry De Alba) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: Dodge Ram recall Message-ID: <000501c20e98$85667f20$f9edfea9@e5dy6> FYI..... read this on the web today. Dodge Ram Pickups Recalled .c The Associated Press AUBURN HILLS, Mich. (AP) - The Chrysler Group of DaimlerChrysler AG said Friday it is recalling more than 150,000 Dodge Ram pickups because of axle and engine problems. About 111,000 1997-1998 Dodge Ram 2500 and 3500 pickups with diesel engines are being recalled to replace a fitting in the engine compartment. The fitting could corrode from road salt used during winter months in the Midwest, the automaker said. Dealers will install new fittings with improved corrosion resistance. Chrysler also is recalling 46,000 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 pickups because of a potentially weak weld on a rear axle bracket. The recall affects only four-wheel-drive models built before November 2001, the automaker said. No owners have complained about the bracket, but the problem could affect long-term durability, Chrysler said. Dealers will install a reinforcement bracket on the affected vehicles. 06/07/02 19:57 EDT Larry De Alba 69- SuperBee (BEEWARE) 70- Chrysler 300 Vert. (CRUZN3C) 98- Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4X4 (98MOPAR) 00- Dodge Durango SLT+ 4X4 (DE ALBA) ---------- ---------- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From prysm at snet.net Fri Jun 7 22:58:50 2002 From: prysm at snet.net (TM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: 1969 Dodge Dart Air Conditioning question! Message-ID: <3D0180FA.5040203@snet.net> Hi Kevin, I know that with cars without AC , the defrost-heater lever is attached to a solid cable to move a flap to divert the air flow to either. Sometimes the connection on this cable can break or loosen . Crawl under the dash, find the cable that says defrost- heat, follow it to the end . Now while laying under the dash , move the lever back and forth and see if the other end moves. Sometimes the bracket and screw holding the cable can loosen up and don't move the flap, because the whole cable just slides or bends out against the flaps pressure. Todd Nelson, Kevin wrote: >Dear MML'ers, > I have a 1969 Dart with a/c and a Slant 6. I just got the a/c >recharged and it comes out ice cold. > PROBLEM: I can divert the air flow from the defroster (top) to the >heater (bottom) but I am unable to divert the air to the air conditioning >vents (in the middle). Does anyone know how I can fix this? Any ideas? Are >there vaccum hoses I have to check somewhere? Help. > >Thanks, >Keith Bourgeois >Marion, NY >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at aol.com Fri Jun 7 23:12:52 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at aol.com (Ms68mopar1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:22 2004 Subject: 70 300 Hurst spotted Message-ID: <13.c99a90b.2a32de44@aol.com> Tonight while at Lowe's I ran into a guy in the parking lot with a 70 300 Hurst. He said they only made about 500 of them. He said he heard there is one, a convertible, in a junkyard in PA, I can't remember name of city (sorry) but I can find out. He said there was only 2/3 of the verts' made. He said was titled (for lack of better word on my part) unsalvageable. Anyone know the city, junk yard, car? Pretty grand old car that just peaked my interest. Ms. Mopar (Yvonne) P.S. Got a letter in the mail addressed to Yvonne Mopar, funny huh? It's going in my car book. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Fri Jun 7 23:53:13 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: On Fri, 7 Jun 2002, dodgeboys wrote: > I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back with unknown engine installed? What is the 5th digit of your VIN? (And do you know which engine the car was built with?) -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Sat Jun 8 00:26:05 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <3D01956D.7AD3A18F@ameritech.net> Jon wrote: > > On Fri, 7 Jun 2002, dodgeboys wrote: > > > I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back with unknown engine installed? > > What is the 5th digit of your VIN? (And do you know which engine > the car was built with?) > > -Jon- > Psst, I think he had a 170 in it 8-> -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Sat Jun 8 04:58:02 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <3D01D52A.B07EB063@sedona.net> Bob Bounderant (spelling ?). Karl M. "Ross D. Olney" wrote: > Firebird Raceway...but I don't know who currently teaches there...they seem > to shuffle around a lot. > > Ross > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rev. Baroonstein" > To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" > Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 11:23 AM > Subject: Re: Race Car Driving Schools? > > > Who is the guy outside of Phoenix? > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ross D. Olney" > > > > > I took a 3 day advanced course from Jim Russell at Laguna Seca and loved > > it! > > > First Laguna (maybe where Barber is now) is the greatest race track in > the > > > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Sat Jun 8 08:22:11 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <002001c20eef$7fb0eff0$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl M." To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 2:58 AM Subject: Re: Race Car Driving Schools? > Bob Bounderant (spelling ?). > > Karl M. > > "Ross D. Olney" wrote: > > > Firebird Raceway...but I don't know who currently teaches there...they seem > > to shuffle around a lot. > > > > Ross > > http://www.mtco.com/~westcj/Brian/bonduran.htm Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From prysm at snet.net Sat Jun 8 23:09:56 2002 From: prysm at snet.net (TM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Backup lite ? Message-ID: <3D02D514.8090601@snet.net> Hi all, Just got the 727 AT installed in my 72 Duster. It was a 3 on the floor stick. So I had to get a new shifter for the AT. I got a Hurst Vmatic 2. Now I have to get the back up lights working again. Anyone have any idea how to wire this up ? Thanks, Todd To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Sun Jun 9 10:25:04 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: Well, everyone, this weekend I raced the Challenger, with the Super Turbo Dynomax, economy $31.50 each, mufflers, installed on the new 2 1/2 X pipe from George. I mean Meineke! Well, first of all, they were really nice on the road! Then when I get to the gate, I ask the woman who takes our money if she notices anything different about my car. She replies, "Yes, I can actually hear you talking and understand what you are saying!" Then I tell her that I got the new system and I am afraid that it will slow me down because everyone is telling me that the mufflers were the cheap ones and I should have gotten the Ultra Flow, or similar one. She replies, "Consistancy is what counts!" I reply that everyone always gets on me because it is a 440 and they say it should be in the 11s! Of course it is not their problem to pay for and install that roll cage, wear that hot fire jacket, and pay for those other parts that start to break when the torque is applied, but they always want you to go as fast as they want to see you go. At their expense! Anyway, I get to the pits and I am ready to go, and John Pehlman wants me to try his M/T Dot "Street" tires, the ones with the biased belts, and the 2 squiggly lines etched in the surface, qualifying them as "Dot Street" and not slicks. We get those on and I discover that I have forgotten my long pants. I am wearing shorts and you can't race in shorts! So I miss first round, while John calls his Wife Michelle to run over a pair of sweat pants. The sweat pants arrive and I make my run! Boy are those tires spongy! The rear feels like it is dancing all over the place! I run 12.781 @ 105.5 mph! The Dynomax work just fine! Then, I get to my elimination round. I noticed that the M/Ts did not seem to give me that much more in 60 foot, so I take them down from 14.5 lbs to 13.5 lbs. I leave first dialed in at, well, 12.78! Right from the start, the car is swaying the rear all over the place like a disco dancer on steroids! I have to back out of it! This thing is going to either go into the wall or the other lane! Well, the guy in the other lane, dialed in at 12.45 finally catches me at the very end! Still, with all that, I run 13.11 @ 97.6 mph! But the bummer is I had a .520 light and the other guy had a .660! The Mickeys have given him a gift! Well, two things, I am back to the BF Goodrich, and I am very happy with the X pipe set up! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior .... 64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T Clone with 440; 89 Chrysler TC Maserati, Maserati Heads, 5 speed; burnt 90 Dodge Spirit; 96 Dodge Ram SLT 2 WD, 360, 3.92 Sure Grip, Magnum R/T equipped.... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From FGCFIRE at AOL.COM Sun Jun 9 19:12:15 2002 From: FGCFIRE at AOL.COM (FGCFIRE@AOL.COM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: MML-Digest - Number 3461 Message-ID: <174.9764244.2a3548df@aol.com> In a message dated 6/7/02 11:19:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, mml@mopar.tamu.edu writes: << Don't forget that enamel Mopar Parts sign right in front! >> Does the "Chrysler Plymouth Authorized Service" with arrow pointing in the drive built into the sid eof the woodshed count ot the lighted pentstar "quality used cars" sign in the car barn bewteen the 66 Newport and the 76 Pirateer that comes on with the floodlights work better? Frank 01, QC Ram 2500 long bed V-10 5spd 4WD Headers, K&N filter 4.10 LSD 66, 68 Newport Verts 383, 440 ;-) 65,66 Newyorkers, 413, 440, 2 dr, 4dr 65 D100 318 (Project) 76 Chrysler 13' Pirateer 2 sails To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From max at broncofix.com Sun Jun 9 20:33:23 2002 From: max at broncofix.com (Max Wood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Opinions needed Message-ID: <001d01c2101e$cfcbd2e0$07fea8c0@WorkGroup> Today I was in one of those old nasty barns you only dream about... you know, the ones with OLD CARS in it ;) I went to look at a '27 Dodge Commercial truck. Its all there... and not rusty, price tag is $500... what does the list think about the truck? the price? If'n I where to get this truck... is it sacrilegious to make it a hot rod or do I restore it??? Opinions are needed... He also had a '48 4dr that is super solid and complete... it runs as well but looks like sh*t... $500. Max To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 9 21:48:58 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: all about compressed air Message-ID: <000301c21029$61e69480$0ee0b93f@laptop> I came across a site with lots of technical info: http://www.airheads.net/tech/index.html Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jsmallfi at columbus.rr.com Sun Jun 9 22:10:41 2002 From: jsmallfi at columbus.rr.com (JarvisRR) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Calling Spartanburg-Greenville MMLer's Message-ID: <003601c2102c$67c64e10$0200a8c0@solomon> Hi all, Wanted to drop a line and get in contact with any MML'er from the Spartanburg-Greenville, SC area. Julie (my wife) has landed a job in the area and we'll be moving down there from Columbus, OH (our current home). I wanted to get in touch with anyone from that area. If you're from around there, drop me a line. I look forward to hearing from you. later... Jarvis -|--- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 04:46:53 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <3D04758D.81CB9567@sedona.net> I don't know if it's still true but Keith Black's hemi was able to accept Chrysler Elephant heads, his heads were able to be used on a factory Elephant block and the rest of the engine was very similar to the original including mounting and bellhousing. This info came from a conversation that I had with Mr. Black at a SEMA show. This was during the time when I was looking at alternative power plants for my Challenger. I considered a KB hemi for it but since the bolt holes for the factory brackets didn't exist I decided that it would have been too much work and I was not about to give up my a/c. I sure wish all the stuff that is available now had been available then. I remember spending hours on the phone trying to find a set of stage IV heads. Karl M. "Steven T. Ekstrand" wrote: > snip > > > Every part in every NASCAR engine is a race part. Every top fuel Hemi > engine is using all race parts wildly different than anything ever factory > produced. > > snip > -Steve Ekstrand > www.conemangler.com > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 05:07:06 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <3D047A4A.1D02DE49@sedona.net> If it was an original T/A it would have been the 340 six pack. The FSM for a 70 Chally does not have a letter designation for the 340 - 6 specifically. This seems to be the only engine that is not specifically listed. So I believe it would be a "Z - Special 8". The "340 Standard" was an H code. Strangely the same FSM also covers the Dart. ?????? How did they come up with that combination? If the Chally and Coronet / Charger were together I could understand that. Karl M. Jon wrote: > On Fri, 7 Jun 2002, dodgeboys wrote: > > > I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back with unknown engine installed? > > What is the 5th digit of your VIN? (And do you know which engine > the car was built with?) > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 05:54:11 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: The Dynomax Mufflers, continued Message-ID: <3D048552.ABDF7057@sedona.net> Now to continue this thread....... I have had factory Chrysler Hemi Street mufflers and the Walker equivalent (both 2 1/4 in, 2 1/4 out) on a bunch of my vehicles (most with 383 engines). I had Walker Super Turbos (2 1/4 in, 2 1/4 out) on my 70 Chally (because the Hemi mufflers were too long). Both sounded pretty good. However I really like the sound of the Flowmasters. I put a set of 2 1/2 in, 2 1/2 out 3 chamber Flowmasters on my 68 Roadrunner with a 440. Sounded great but they are a little loud. On that car it was fine. And it will be fine on my Satellite. However I want something a little quieter on my 74 Dart. This is going to be my freeway flyer. Not a big cam and highway gears. I'm going to have a 2 1/4 system put on that car. From what I've read in the last week the annoying resonance that many are describing only occurs on systems with 2 1/2" pipe or larger? And how do the Dynomax Super Turbos compare to the Walker Super Turbos (sound and flow)? To the Hemi mufflers? And will the Hemi mufflers fit under a Dart? Anybody got 2 1/4" 3 chamber Flowmasters on a 340 or 360 powered Dart??? How does it sound at highway speeds? Right now I have glass packs on the Satellite. That is REALLY loud (and has a VERY obnoxious rapping sound) but I understand that the flow is pretty good. And since the Dynomax Ultra Flows are basically a glass pack I personally wouldn't even consider those ( I guess if I had a 64 Impala ground scraper..... maybe). Karl M. Hank Seestedt wrote: > Thanks to everyone who replied to me about getting the Super Turbo > Dynomax! I got a lot of good information including some privately > that shows a test where the Super Turbo flows 70 percent. Compare > that to the FlowMaster that only flows 59 percent, although someone on > the DiRT list told me that although the FlowMaster flows less, it > often makes more power. Some sort of scavaging technique, but I think > it uses VooDoo! I do remember seeing in one of the Mopar mags, a > shootout where they took a 440 in the 12s and tried several brands of > mufflers. The Flowmaster was about in the middle in 1/4 mile times, > and the Dynomax were the best. However, the times, I remember, none > were more than 2/10s apart for any tested. > > Now, the best seems to be the Dynomax Ultra Flow with figures of 99 > and 101 percent. So At first, I felt bad that I had already purchased > the Super Turbo. Then I went to Summit to look at prices. The > cheapest Ultra Flow is $99, and the Super Turbo is only $31.50! And > unless you get a Race Only muffler, no other street muffler flows > better than the Super Turbo for the price! Now, I know that I am > crazy and I don't care about the noise, but I am not looney! I drive > the Challenger on the street! Also, I am already into the Meineke > dealer for $400 for the work, so the $100 mufflers are not an option > at this time. Maybe later. > snip > > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From baroon at robdiesel.com Mon Jun 10 08:08:55 2002 From: baroon at robdiesel.com (Rev. Baroonstein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Test... Message-ID: <006a01c2107f$f9c60370$64010a0a@tower> I haven't received anything for a while...? Carl To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Sat Jun 8 09:43:27 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: On Sat, 8 Jun 2002, dodgeboys wrote: > yea the fifth digit is a J and the car came with a 340 6pak Oops, sorry about that, everyone - I knew the T/A and AAR came with 340s but I didn't realize they were all 6 paks. Anyhoo... That code is in the decoder, and its working for me - the only thing I can think of is maybe you transposed a couple of digits by mistake? (http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/moparvin) -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From don.rey at uconn.edu Sat Jun 8 11:07:23 2002 From: don.rey at uconn.edu (Don Rey) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Brake problems now Message-ID: <007a01c20f06$940919c0$0400a8c0@radon> The law of conservation of defects has struck again. Got the timing all set, the vacuum advance is right, running great... now the brakes go bad. Ugh. This is in my '74 Dart Sport with a '72 340. Front disc (original, not conversion) power brakes. Okay, here goes: The brake malfunction light comes on after the first time I hit the brakes, and stays on. And brakes are rather weak. I have to press almost to the floor, and even then the stopping distance is a little farther than it should be (still driveable though). There's no fluid leak... so I'm thinking its the master cylinder. What should I do...? I don't know terribly much about the brake system, although I'm a fast learner and I have the books. She needs to be inspected before the 16th (temp plates expire then). This problem has started very suddenly. Before I got the vacuum issue resolved (a couple days ago) she was braking very strong. Since then, I clamped the loose brake vacuum hose onto the intake manifold just to make sure it wasn't a source of vacuum leak. Could that have created too much vacuum in the master cyl? Should I look into master cylinder rebuild/replacement? Thanks in advance!!! Don 74 Dart Sport 340 www.pbase.com/radon220/my_dodge_dart Connecticut To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From prysm at snet.net Sat Jun 8 23:09:56 2002 From: prysm at snet.net (TM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Backup lite ? Message-ID: <3D02D514.8090601@snet.net> Hi all, Just got the 727 AT installed in my 72 Duster. It was a 3 on the floor stick. So I had to get a new shifter for the AT. I got a Hurst Vmatic 2. Now I have to get the back up lights working again. Anyone have any idea how to wire this up ? Thanks, Todd To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Sun Jun 9 10:25:04 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: Well, everyone, this weekend I raced the Challenger, with the Super Turbo Dynomax, economy $31.50 each, mufflers, installed on the new 2 1/2 X pipe from George. I mean Meineke! Well, first of all, they were really nice on the road! Then when I get to the gate, I ask the woman who takes our money if she notices anything different about my car. She replies, "Yes, I can actually hear you talking and understand what you are saying!" Then I tell her that I got the new system and I am afraid that it will slow me down because everyone is telling me that the mufflers were the cheap ones and I should have gotten the Ultra Flow, or similar one. She replies, "Consistancy is what counts!" I reply that everyone always gets on me because it is a 440 and they say it should be in the 11s! Of course it is not their problem to pay for and install that roll cage, wear that hot fire jacket, and pay for those other parts that start to break when the torque is applied, but they always want you to go as fast as they want to see you go. At their expense! Anyway, I get to the pits and I am ready to go, and John Pehlman wants me to try his M/T Dot "Street" tires, the ones with the biased belts, and the 2 squiggly lines etched in the surface, qualifying them as "Dot Street" and not slicks. We get those on and I discover that I have forgotten my long pants. I am wearing shorts and you can't race in shorts! So I miss first round, while John calls his Wife Michelle to run over a pair of sweat pants. The sweat pants arrive and I make my run! Boy are those tires spongy! The rear feels like it is dancing all over the place! I run 12.781 @ 105.5 mph! The Dynomax work just fine! Then, I get to my elimination round. I noticed that the M/Ts did not seem to give me that much more in 60 foot, so I take them down from 14.5 lbs to 13.5 lbs. I leave first dialed in at, well, 12.78! Right from the start, the car is swaying the rear all over the place like a disco dancer on steroids! I have to back out of it! This thing is going to either go into the wall or the other lane! Well, the guy in the other lane, dialed in at 12.45 finally catches me at the very end! Still, with all that, I run 13.11 @ 97.6 mph! But the bummer is I had a .520 light and the other guy had a .660! The Mickeys have given him a gift! Well, two things, I am back to the BF Goodrich, and I am very happy with the X pipe set up! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior .... 64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T Clone with 440; 89 Chrysler TC Maserati, Maserati Heads, 5 speed; burnt 90 Dodge Spirit; 96 Dodge Ram SLT 2 WD, 360, 3.92 Sure Grip, Magnum R/T equipped.... To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 9 16:14:30 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Subject: Installing 3.92 gears in Dakota Message-ID: <03d701c20ffa$a78447a0$1409b241@laptop> >Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 11:39:21 -0500 >From: "J. Elsmore" > >Hello, I have a mechanic who is going to install 3.92 gears >in my 99 Dodge Dakota this weekend. He did some checking >and said he needs a special tool to adjust the backlash for >the side carrier. I have been told it is called a spanner >adjuster wrench. Anyone know where to get this? SPX/Miller Special Tools www.spx.com , otherwise make the tool. iirc the web site used to have an on-line catalog and ordering, but its not there now. Call and ask for the printed catalog. Personally, I wouldn't have much confidence in your mechanic's ability to install a gearset if he doesn't have the necessary tool and doesn't know where to obtain one or can't make one. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From FGCFIRE at AOL.COM Sun Jun 9 19:12:15 2002 From: FGCFIRE at AOL.COM (FGCFIRE@AOL.COM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: MML-Digest - Number 3461 Message-ID: <174.9764244.2a3548df@aol.com> In a message dated 6/7/02 11:19:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, mml@mopar.tamu.edu writes: << Don't forget that enamel Mopar Parts sign right in front! >> Does the "Chrysler Plymouth Authorized Service" with arrow pointing in the drive built into the sid eof the woodshed count ot the lighted pentstar "quality used cars" sign in the car barn bewteen the 66 Newport and the 76 Pirateer that comes on with the floodlights work better? Frank 01, QC Ram 2500 long bed V-10 5spd 4WD Headers, K&N filter 4.10 LSD 66, 68 Newport Verts 383, 440 ;-) 65,66 Newyorkers, 413, 440, 2 dr, 4dr 65 D100 318 (Project) 76 Chrysler 13' Pirateer 2 sails To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From max at broncofix.com Sun Jun 9 20:33:23 2002 From: max at broncofix.com (Max Wood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Opinions needed Message-ID: <001d01c2101e$cfcbd2e0$07fea8c0@WorkGroup> Today I was in one of those old nasty barns you only dream about... you know, the ones with OLD CARS in it ;) I went to look at a '27 Dodge Commercial truck. Its all there... and not rusty, price tag is $500... what does the list think about the truck? the price? If'n I where to get this truck... is it sacrilegious to make it a hot rod or do I restore it??? Opinions are needed... He also had a '48 4dr that is super solid and complete... it runs as well but looks like sh*t... $500. Max To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 9 21:48:58 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: all about compressed air Message-ID: <000301c21029$61e69480$0ee0b93f@laptop> I came across a site with lots of technical info: http://www.airheads.net/tech/index.html Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jsmallfi at columbus.rr.com Sun Jun 9 22:10:41 2002 From: jsmallfi at columbus.rr.com (JarvisRR) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Calling Spartanburg-Greenville MMLer's Message-ID: <003601c2102c$67c64e10$0200a8c0@solomon> Hi all, Wanted to drop a line and get in contact with any MML'er from the Spartanburg-Greenville, SC area. Julie (my wife) has landed a job in the area and we'll be moving down there from Columbus, OH (our current home). I wanted to get in touch with anyone from that area. If you're from around there, drop me a line. I look forward to hearing from you. later... Jarvis -|--- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 04:46:53 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: <3D04758D.81CB9567@sedona.net> I don't know if it's still true but Keith Black's hemi was able to accept Chrysler Elephant heads, his heads were able to be used on a factory Elephant block and the rest of the engine was very similar to the original including mounting and bellhousing. This info came from a conversation that I had with Mr. Black at a SEMA show. This was during the time when I was looking at alternative power plants for my Challenger. I considered a KB hemi for it but since the bolt holes for the factory brackets didn't exist I decided that it would have been too much work and I was not about to give up my a/c. I sure wish all the stuff that is available now had been available then. I remember spending hours on the phone trying to find a set of stage IV heads. Karl M. "Steven T. Ekstrand" wrote: > snip > > > Every part in every NASCAR engine is a race part. Every top fuel Hemi > engine is using all race parts wildly different than anything ever factory > produced. > > snip > -Steve Ekstrand > www.conemangler.com > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 05:07:06 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <3D047A4A.1D02DE49@sedona.net> If it was an original T/A it would have been the 340 six pack. The FSM for a 70 Chally does not have a letter designation for the 340 - 6 specifically. This seems to be the only engine that is not specifically listed. So I believe it would be a "Z - Special 8". The "340 Standard" was an H code. Strangely the same FSM also covers the Dart. ?????? How did they come up with that combination? If the Chally and Coronet / Charger were together I could understand that. Karl M. Jon wrote: > On Fri, 7 Jun 2002, dodgeboys wrote: > > > I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back with unknown engine installed? > > What is the 5th digit of your VIN? (And do you know which engine > the car was built with?) > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 05:54:11 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:23 2004 Subject: The Dynomax Mufflers, continued Message-ID: <3D048552.ABDF7057@sedona.net> Now to continue this thread....... I have had factory Chrysler Hemi Street mufflers and the Walker equivalent (both 2 1/4 in, 2 1/4 out) on a bunch of my vehicles (most with 383 engines). I had Walker Super Turbos (2 1/4 in, 2 1/4 out) on my 70 Chally (because the Hemi mufflers were too long). Both sounded pretty good. However I really like the sound of the Flowmasters. I put a set of 2 1/2 in, 2 1/2 out 3 chamber Flowmasters on my 68 Roadrunner with a 440. Sounded great but they are a little loud. On that car it was fine. And it will be fine on my Satellite. However I want something a little quieter on my 74 Dart. This is going to be my freeway flyer. Not a big cam and highway gears. I'm going to have a 2 1/4 system put on that car. From what I've read in the last week the annoying resonance that many are describing only occurs on systems with 2 1/2" pipe or larger? And how do the Dynomax Super Turbos compare to the Walker Super Turbos (sound and flow)? To the Hemi mufflers? And will the Hemi mufflers fit under a Dart? Anybody got 2 1/4" 3 chamber Flowmasters on a 340 or 360 powered Dart??? How does it sound at highway speeds? Right now I have glass packs on the Satellite. That is REALLY loud (and has a VERY obnoxious rapping sound) but I understand that the flow is pretty good. And since the Dynomax Ultra Flows are basically a glass pack I personally wouldn't even consider those ( I guess if I had a 64 Impala ground scraper..... maybe). Karl M. Hank Seestedt wrote: > Thanks to everyone who replied to me about getting the Super Turbo > Dynomax! I got a lot of good information including some privately > that shows a test where the Super Turbo flows 70 percent. Compare > that to the FlowMaster that only flows 59 percent, although someone on > the DiRT list told me that although the FlowMaster flows less, it > often makes more power. Some sort of scavaging technique, but I think > it uses VooDoo! I do remember seeing in one of the Mopar mags, a > shootout where they took a 440 in the 12s and tried several brands of > mufflers. The Flowmaster was about in the middle in 1/4 mile times, > and the Dynomax were the best. However, the times, I remember, none > were more than 2/10s apart for any tested. > > Now, the best seems to be the Dynomax Ultra Flow with figures of 99 > and 101 percent. So At first, I felt bad that I had already purchased > the Super Turbo. Then I went to Summit to look at prices. The > cheapest Ultra Flow is $99, and the Super Turbo is only $31.50! And > unless you get a Race Only muffler, no other street muffler flows > better than the Super Turbo for the price! Now, I know that I am > crazy and I don't care about the noise, but I am not looney! I drive > the Challenger on the street! Also, I am already into the Meineke > dealer for $400 for the work, so the $100 mufflers are not an option > at this time. Maybe later. > snip > > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From baroon at robdiesel.com Mon Jun 10 08:08:55 2002 From: baroon at robdiesel.com (Rev. Baroonstein) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Test... Message-ID: <006a01c2107f$f9c60370$64010a0a@tower> I haven't received anything for a while...? Carl To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at AOL.COM Sun Jun 9 14:30:37 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at AOL.COM (Ms68mopar1@AOL.COM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Chrome help Message-ID: <38.291638ce.2a3506dd@aol.com> The mans name is Howard and the business is Perfection Dash and Chrome 229 Leandro St. Ahaheim, CA 92807 (714) 637-8479 He chromed my two armrest backs for 35.00 each and my dash bezel for around 90.00 If I remember correctly. He does a great job. Ms. Mopar (YVonne) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net Mon Jun 10 08:29:12 2002 From: rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net (Tem) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <3D04A9A8.F3B01FB1@worldnet.att.net> A 340 Six Pack was a "J" code in 70. Previously, "J" was used for a Hemi, but that was changed to an "R" so the "J" could be the 340. "Karl M." wrote: > If it was an original T/A it would have been the 340 six pack. The FSM for a 70 Chally does not have a > letter designation for the 340 - 6 specifically. This seems to be the only engine that is not specifically > listed. So I believe it would be a "Z - Special 8". The "340 Standard" was an H code. Strangely the same > FSM also covers the Dart. ?????? How did they come up with that combination? If the Chally and Coronet / > Charger were together I could understand that. > > Karl M. > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From unclecuda at hotmail.com Sun Jun 9 12:28:41 2002 From: unclecuda at hotmail.com (uncle cuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: > > > I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back >with unknown engine installed? > > > > What is the 5th digit of your VIN? (And do you know which engine > > the car was built with?) > > > > -Jon- > > > >Psst, I think he had a 170 in it 8-> Don't tease Jon he's a new mopar man & he already has a big block '70 'Cuda :) The TAs all came with the 340 six pack, but wasn't that listed on the vin as with a "special order" number, so a decoder couldn't know which engine was? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From b1arno at attbi.com Sun Jun 9 19:10:57 2002 From: b1arno at attbi.com ( Arno Jacobi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Fw: 318 swirl port heads Message-ID: <012301c21013$4b8b0420$0100a8c0@c1019284a> > > Hi everyone, > I am building a 360 for my 73 1/2 ton pickup. Forged pistons, 9.5 to 1 > compression, mild cam. I'm looking for torque. I have some late model 360 > heads that I pocket ported and had worked up. 1.88 int., 160 exh. > I have come across a deal on some 318 closed chamber swirl port heads, cast > #4323302. These heads were done by Hughes Engines, with a stage 1 port, 194 > int. 160 exh. My question is, will these heads work well on a 360 for > building torque? They have smaller int. runners for better velocity, but a > larger int. valve. They also have considerably smaller exh. ports. Has > anyone had experience putting these on a 360? > Thanks > Arno> > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From unclecuda at hotmail.com Sun Jun 9 12:31:44 2002 From: unclecuda at hotmail.com (uncle cuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: 70 300 Hurst spotted Message-ID: I always liked these too. There was always one @ Riverhead Chrysler on LI. Now I know where there is one parked on the street in Brooklyn. Anybody on the list? Weird thing is I thought they had a special Hurst shifter, but this one has a regular "chicken stick" on the tree. Has everything else, hood, trunk, paint, interior trim etc. I think the story is 500 made, plus one convertible that Hurst used for promotional purposes, I don't know what happened to it. Rob >From: Ms68mopar1@aol.com >Reply-To: Ms68mopar1@aol.com >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: 70 300 Hurst spotted >Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 00:12:52 EDT > >Tonight while at Lowe's I ran into a guy in the parking lot with a 70 300 >Hurst. He said they only made about 500 of them. >He said he heard there is one, a convertible, in a junkyard in PA, I can't >remember name of city (sorry) but I can find out. He said there was only >2/3 >of the verts' made. >He said was titled (for lack of better word on my part) unsalvageable. >Anyone know the city, junk yard, car? >Pretty grand old car that just peaked my interest. > >Ms. Mopar (Yvonne) P.S. Got a letter in the mail addressed to Yvonne >Mopar, >funny huh? It's going in my car book. >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From NyJimster at AOL.COM Sun Jun 9 18:30:45 2002 From: NyJimster at AOL.COM (NyJimster@AOL.COM) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Mopar for sale in NY Message-ID: Selling my 98 neon R/T. Blue w/ grey stripes, 50k. Car is in great shape. E-mail if interested. Jim To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sun Jun 9 15:38:32 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Q:'89 318 EFI Message-ID: <035d01c20ff5$a0500c80$1409b241@laptop> Last night it bagan to stumble as I came to a stop. The computer trapped the code for out of range (full rich) A/F mixture. I replaced the spark plugs (long overdue). 2,3,5,and 8 were coated with soot and the others were normal. Which injector feeds these cylinders? I can't really tell for sure from what I can see of the manifold casting but it looks like its the right one. Could someone verify? Has anyone had experience with this condition? At 110,000 miles I'm debating whether to just replace both injectors. Has anyone had good results with simply cleaning them? Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 05:18:12 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Dreamlot Message-ID: <3D047CE4.E419582A@sedona.net> Stopped by Dreamlot for a few minutes on my trip to CA. What a cool place! Too bad it's over 750 miles away. I'd be a regular there. Makes me want to get my 74 Dart going again so that I can have something cheaper to drive on road trips. I wish that I had been able to stay longer. I had to work Saturday but I would have loved to have gotten in on the BBQ. Maybe the next trip. And thanks to Ben for being a gracious host. Karl M. -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 06:01:24 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: 4-speed shifter Message-ID: <3D048704.AFBE4CB0@sedona.net> I'd opt for the new Competition Plus. Just my $.02 worth. Karl M. Mike Donovan wrote: > Ok, for all you 4-speed guys and gals out there, is there a favorite > shifter you use? > > In my 68 Charger I have a good old 833 four-speed. Attached to this > 4-speed is a well-worn 1969 factory (?) Hurst shifter. I've been > driving the car with this shifter for 6 months now, and it works fine, > but there is so much play and the action is so sloppy that speed > shifting is "interesting." With the shifter in gear, I can easily > wobble the stick around many inches left and right. Some of this play > is from inside the shifter box itself, and the rest is from the > mounting of the stick to the shifter as most of the rubber has worn > away. > > As far as I can tell there are 3 common options for this problem. > > 1) Grab a new Hurst Competition Plus shifter for $165 and the > installation kit for another $90 for a total of $255, which gets you a > brand new shifter, which should be a bit beefier than stock, with > adjustable stops, etc. > > 2) Grab a new Chrysler/Hurst shifter from Year One for $280. This > doesn't sound like a great deal and I really don't care about the > shifter being factory original. > > 3) Send my shifter to Year One and have them rebuild it for, I think, > about $100. I get to keep my shifter, it should feel like new, but it > still won't be a Comp Plus and I'll be without a shifter for many, > many weeks. > > Any thoughts? > > Thanks. > > -miked > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sun Jun 9 16:20:30 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Mid-Pen BBQ... Message-ID: <3D03C69E.17709E1D@earthlink.net> Hey folks, had a great time last night. Stu's an awesome host, and his garage is a great tribute to the hobby and hanging out in general! Love the nostalgia. Was great meeting Ogre, Kevin, Steve, Joe, seeing John, George, Joanne and the rest of the gang. Had some great laughs and a hoot watching Death Race 2000. Sorry if I missed your names, folks, but all the faces are there... -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee http://www.moparalley.org Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 04:55:38 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: 66 Street hemi question HELP Message-ID: <3D04779A.AD807A57@sedona.net> I don't remember exactly where but the 66 block had a couple of additional bolt holes that were not used on later engines. I think they were for something to do with the intake. If this is correct it may give you a clue wheather that was a 66 intake. I ended up putting a single 4 bbl intake on mine after not being able to find a good stock dual quad setup. Karl M. paulholm wrote: > I went to the Hot Rod Nats to search the swaps. > > Saw what is supposed to be a 66 hemi inline 2x4 intake and > carbs. > > There is a part of the choke assemble on this setup I need > to varify as to actually belonging on the rear carb. > > Might serve as an additional source for my resto project. > > -- > Paul Holmgren > Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 > 2 57 300-C's in Indy -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From racer-x at erols.com Sun Jun 9 18:25:13 2002 From: racer-x at erols.com (Joe Goetz) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: 72 Satellite wagon rolling chassis for sale Message-ID: <3D03E3D9.3050003@erols.com> Well, I finally bit the bullet and am going to strip the wagon. Ten years is a good run; time for me to move on to other projects/problems, LOL! '72 Satellite 7-passenger wagon, originally 318/904/8.75" car, will come as a rolling chassis only - no engine, transmission, radiator or center section. Will have headers and duals (about seven years old, starting to flake some). Can come with driveshaft cut for this car and a 727 (3.5" shorter than it was originally, I think). Column shifter mechanism is there, but needs lever inside and underhood pieces (converted to floor-mount ratchet shifter for bracket racing). Car is uncut and all original as far as sheetmetal goes. Rust in spare tire well and at rear corners of each back doorjamb. Never in an accident. Comes with 2 spare sets of taillight lenses and a spare correct-color (green) dashpad. Option list limited to power discs, power steering, and the 8.75" rearend. $1000/bo, come-n-get-it in Frederick MD (about an hour from DC). Would make a great tow vehicle for a bracket car, but I just don't have time to mess with it anymore what with a smallblock project and two turbo projects.... Original, rebuilt (.030" flattops, 340HP cam, hi-volume oil pump), numbers-match 318 shortblock is available to go with car if desired - make offer. Engine's assembled, on a stand, and has never been run. Drop me an email if you're interested, thanks! j -- Joe Goetz, racer-x@erols.com Frederick, MD, USA 85 T&C turbo woodie wagon 72 Satellite wagon 87 CSX 133 77 Tradesman 200 89 CSX 135 89 Spirit ES 2.5tI/auto 91 Daytona CS/AGS 99 Buell M2 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 06:08:56 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Challenger discs on a Coronet? Message-ID: <3D0488C8.E23C7FAD@sedona.net> Yes. But you also need the master cylinder and proportioning valve so you will also need to change the plumbing to the valve. Oh and by the way ..... what cam and rear gears are you running in your 72 Dart? Karl M. Dave Kranz wrote: > Does anyone know if '70 - '72 Challenger spindles, discs and calipers > will work on a '66 Coronet front drum car? > > Dave > > -- > '66 Coronet 500 440 4 speed (project) > '72 Scamp 360+++ 727 (sleeper) 13.89 @ 99.7 > '72 Dart /6 904 (parts) > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tonyu at roava.net Sat Jun 8 09:35:24 2002 From: tonyu at roava.net (Tony Underwood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: 70 300 Hurst spotted (and title troubles) Message-ID: <200206081039265.SM01136@barfo> At 12:12 Ante 6/8/2002 -0400, Ms68mopar1@aol.com wrote: >Tonight while at Lowe's I ran into a guy in the parking lot with a 70 300 >Hurst. He said they only made about 500 of them. >He said he heard there is one, a convertible, in a junkyard in PA, I can't >remember name of city (sorry) but I can find out. He said there was only 2/3 >of the verts' made. That Linda Vaughn chick used to ride around in a 300 Hurst ragtop at the Spring Nats etc. >He said was titled (for lack of better word on my part) unsalvageable. The other states should do it the way Virginia does it. I did a little research... In VA, DMV records are no longer "paper" and the computer records on any vehicle are purged after ten years if: The car is not registered or tagged in that length of time. The car is not retitled or transferred in that length of time. The VA DMV considers such a vehicle as having been recycled/junked. All computer records on that vehicle are deleted and the vehicle officially ceases to exist. Of course, if you take a title to the DMV and show it to them, the vehicle will be reinstated and it "comes alive" again. However, if such a vehicle is acquired sans title, such as from the back lower overgrown-with-honeysuckle row of a junkyard or the typical "farmers field" etc it can be retitled if it passes a nationwide CRC (state police systems criminal wants/warrants check) for wants/warrants/stolen. Of course, they'll also run the VIN through records to make sure it's not still on file, so first thing before you drag something like this back to your house, run that VIN through the DMV, see if it's on file or stolen etc. Virginia DMV doesn't keep records on warrants/stolen cars, but the state police do, and they don't drop their records after ten years. If the car was stolen 20 years ago, they'll know it. The last thing you wanna do is buy something that's on record as already belonging to someone else, or is wanted by the state cops. Have the car VIN checked before you spend money or effort digging it out of the junkyard or the field etc. If it comes back as not on file anywhere, you're set. You must contact the DMV main offices and apply for an "affidavit in lieu of title" and fill it out, return it to the main DMV offices. It's best to deal directly with the State DMV headquarters offices since in VA this is where all the paperwork goes in any event, and if you do this through the branch offices they will simply mail it off there anyway... send it directly yourself and save a few days. In order to speed things along (although I'm told it's not absolutely necessary and can be gotten around) you should have a bill of sale, signed and dated, so as to demonstrate that you acquired the car "in good faith" and didn't just sneak it off of someones property in the dead of night etc. The DMV and/or the inspector will ask you if you have a bill of sale and will likely wanna see it. The inspector will come by to verify the VIN and that the vehicle you want to retitled is in fact a viable vehicle and that you're not trying to title a "shoebox car". It requires an appointment in VA since they have only *One* guy who does this sort of thing. Just one, goes all over the state checking VINs and inspecting home-built "kit" trailers etc. It's a good idea to make sure you provide him with access to the car so he can check it over at the appointed time and place. You don't have to be present at the time, but you do have to provide complete access to the vehicle, no locked doors or deck lids etc. If the car passes muster, he'll give you a signed-off application for title which you return to your local DMV, pay the title fees, and they issue you a standard vehicle title in your name. No salvage or reconstructed title, no DMV-applied VIN tags. It's yours with the correct standard title bearing the vehicles original VIN. I've done this twice already. It is my understanding that other states/commonwealths in the union (but certainly not all) are going to this sort of system. It's worth the time to check your local DMV and look around, see if they have gone or are going to the simplified system. If not (like NJ) it might be worth your time to suggest they follow VA and others' lead in this area since it not only cuts down the paperwork and bureaucracy bigtime, it makes the restoration and resurrection of older/vintage vehicles (and our hobby) much simpler... and no, it doesn't lead to fraud/falsified titling nor does it retitle stolen vehicles since the car goes through a nation wide records check before the DMV takes a single step forward... should your local DMV employee suggest such. If they do their job, that sort of thing won't happen. Here's hoping that other states do indeed get their act together and make things easier for automotive hobbyists so that more vintage cars can be saved. Unfortunately, some area politicians don't want them saved... so you might have to work on it a while... and look at the positions your area politicians support, see if they are for or against the hobby. Then, vote for the candidate who will support *you*. This is what got VA "clunker laws" vetoed and taxes on vintage cars eliminated, thanks to a governor who was a gearhead himself (and now a Senator). tony.. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Mon Jun 10 09:49:18 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: On Mon, 10 Jun 2002, Karl M. wrote: > If it was an original T/A it would have been the 340 six pack. The FSM for a 70 Chally does not have a > letter designation for the 340 - 6 specifically. This seems to be the only engine that is not specifically > listed. So I believe it would be a "Z - Special 8". The "340 Standard" was an H code. Strangely the same > FSM also covers the Dart. ?????? How did they come up with that combination? If the Chally and Coronet / > Charger were together I could understand that. > According to the info I have (which, granted, is second hand and not from the FSM), the code for the 340 six pak was "J". -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 04:19:00 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: 1969 Dodge Dart Air Conditioning question! Message-ID: <3D046F04.CEACDF8E@sedona.net> It's been a while since I've worked on the a/c on my 67 but if I remember correctly there is a vacuum operated door on the rear (towards the passenger compartment) above the bottom of the duct that controls the air flow to those discharge outlets. Sometimes after sitting awhile the air doors stick. If you look under there and operate the controls between the various positions you should be able to see the actuating rod that is not moving. Karl M. "Nelson, Kevin" wrote: > Dear MML'ers, > I have a 1969 Dart with a/c and a Slant 6. I just got the a/c > recharged and it comes out ice cold. > PROBLEM: I can divert the air flow from the defroster (top) to the > heater (bottom) but I am unable to divert the air to the air conditioning > vents (in the middle). Does anyone know how I can fix this? Any ideas? Are > there vaccum hoses I have to check somewhere? Help. > > Thanks, > Keith Bourgeois > Marion, NY -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tonyu at roava.net Mon Jun 10 10:19:47 2002 From: tonyu at roava.net (Tony Underwood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: 70 300 Hurst spotted Message-ID: <200206101124890.SM01136@barfo> At 05:31 Post 6/9/2002 +0000, uncle cuda wrote: >I always liked these too. >There was always one @ Riverhead Chrysler on LI. Now I know where there is >one parked on the street in Brooklyn. Anybody on the list? >Weird thing is I thought they had a special Hurst shifter, but this one has >a regular "chicken stick" on the tree. Has everything else, hood, trunk, >paint, interior trim etc. >I think the story is 500 made, plus one convertible that Hurst used for >promotional purposes, I don't know what happened to it. Only one...? If so, this would be the one that was used to parade Linda Vaughn around at drag races etc. If this is the case, it's probably still around somewhere. I have a couple of photos of the car somewhere, shot at the Bristol Spring Nats. tony.. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Dave.Clement at motorola.com Mon Jun 10 10:50:52 2002 From: Dave.Clement at motorola.com (Clement Dave-LDC009) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: The Dynomax Mufflers, continued Message-ID: <05F679A54DF3D51188100008C791975696D304@ma07exm03.corp.isg.mot.com> Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 03:54:11 -0700 From: "Karl M." >And how do the Dynomax Super Turbos compare to the Walker Super >Turbos (sound and flow)? Karl, Walker and Dynomx are made by the same company (Tenneco). Dynomax is the brand name for the performance line of exhaust products Walker is the OE replacement line. I remember at one time the packaging used to refer to Walker Dynomax but they seem to have distanced the brands from each other. I do not think you will find anything called a "Walker Super Turbo" and more. Dave Clement Pembroke, MA 97 Avenger 89 Daytona Shelby 89 Dakota LE 4x4 68 Barracuda - Hotrod \6 - http://pages.moparalley.org/dgc333/Index.html To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tessa at frontiernet.net Mon Jun 10 10:51:59 2002 From: tessa at frontiernet.net (tessa@frontiernet.net) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Labor Hours for Front End Rebuild Message-ID: <20020610155200.8247.qmail@webmail02.roc.frontiernet.net> Hi: The tie rods etc. on my 'Cuda were worse than I expected, and can not wait the 12 Months I had originally planned for replacing them. I ordered the non-poly delux-kit from PST which arrives this week, and has the idler arm & inner tie rods and so forth. For anyone who has had this done, what sort of labor charge can I expect ? I figure a WAG of ten hours labor, but have heard that the lower ball joints on a car with torsion bar suspension is a royal PIA and not a one person job. Anyone had this done lately (or tackled it themselves) ? Dave To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Mon Jun 10 10:55:09 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Q:'89 318 EFI Message-ID: <052701c21097$329fe140$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kenneth Mayer" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 1:38 PM Subject: Q:'89 318 EFI > Last night it bagan to stumble as I came to a stop. The computer trapped > the code for out of range (full rich) A/F mixture. I replaced the spark > plugs (long overdue). 2,3,5,and 8 were coated with soot and the others were > normal. Which injector feeds these cylinders? I can't really tell for sure > from what I can see of the manifold casting but it looks like its the right > one. Could someone verify? > > Has anyone had experience with this condition? At 110,000 miles I'm > debating whether to just replace both injectors. Has anyone had good > results with simply cleaning them? > > Ken > :-) > Ken, The plugs are every other one in the firing order. Pull the air filter and look at the injector spray with a timing light. You'll see the bad one. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From kchamp at nrtco.net Mon Jun 10 11:22:24 2002 From: kchamp at nrtco.net (Kevin Champ) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: MiniVans Message-ID: <3D04D240.CA0E22E5@nrtco.net> Hello Everyone, We're looking at a 92 Grand Caravan with 3.3 and 4spd auto tranny. Its got 100 k miles but seems to run and stop very well. I haven't been keeping up with the FWD stuff and was wondering if this engine/tranny package is any good? Does the 3.3l have any inherent weaknesses? The body is very solid and the price is right but I don't want to be buying into a bag of problems. Thanks for any input, Kevin To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From n5lfh at zeecon.com Sat Jun 8 15:00:39 2002 From: n5lfh at zeecon.com (Greg Kendall) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Found...E body 22" Radiator Shroud Message-ID: <3D026267.7C1C362B@zeecon.com> Someone was looking for an 22" E-Body fan shroud last month...we communicated some, but I dumped all those emails...you were in Europe I belive. Texas Acres has one. Contact me and I'll send you the info. Wish my memory was better. Greg '71 Duster 340 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at aol.com Sat Jun 8 09:59:20 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at aol.com (Ms68mopar1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Chrome help Message-ID: <61.20e33fe4.2a3375c8@aol.com> The gentlemen who rechromes plastic is Howard the business is Perfection (and he's not kidding) Dash and Chrome 229 Leandro Street, Anaheim, CA 92807 Phone is 714- 637-8479. He rechromed two different items for my 68 Roadrunner the arm rest backs and they were 35.00 each and my dash bezel and I think it was about 80.00. They are PERFECT. I don't think you will be unhappy. Ms. Mopar (Yvonne) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From smoker at terraworld.net Sun Jun 9 00:27:02 2002 From: smoker at terraworld.net (MoPar Jamie Kittrell) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: Sending stuff to the JY soon (like next week), want anything? Message-ID: <000501c20f76$49fbee00$a62bfe40@oemcomputer> Located in Sycamore, KS: 1979 D-100 Custom. No motor/trans, rt. fender, grille, doors, bed, or wiring. Rest is there, may pull master cyl and gas tank, maybe not, make offer on anything. 1977 B-300 Maxivan. No motor, trans, rear-end, or wheels. May take the rotors for my Club Cab. Again, make offers. Sending them off, as I'm tired of them in the yard. Van needs to be ripped apart, so it may take longer. Truck is definitly going though. - MoPar Jamie Kittrell 1971 D-100 "Dude", project after Club Cab 1972 D-200 Club Cab, work truck 1974 Monaco 4 dr, current driver 1975 Power Wagon, trail beater, mudder. 1977 Cordoba, freebie, unknown status now To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From harling at attbi.com Fri Jun 7 20:33:50 2002 From: harling at attbi.com (Dan Harling) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: New eMail address Message-ID: <000701c20e8c$8aad03c0$6501a8c0@HARLING> Hello, Well the nice folks at Cadence laid me off yesterday afternoon, so please use or to contact me in the future. And if you know of anyone in the southern NH area who needs an experienced software engineer, please let me know. Dan Harling <>< harling@attbi.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sublime at voyager.net Mon Jun 10 11:47:54 2002 From: sublime at voyager.net (sublime@voyager.net) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:24 2004 Subject: '71 New Yorker FS, Nice Driver! Message-ID: <20020610164754.3FDC423B27@debian.voyager.net> MMLers, I need to sell this car! Its a very solid, nice driving '71 New Yorker, 4 door hardtop. Options include 440/727 runs and shifts nice. Carter AVS 4bbl. A/C - not working, PS, PDB, PW, PL, Cruise - works well. Also has tilt/telescopic rimblow wheel, power trunk release - not working. Gray with black top. Split bench seat with power drivers seat. Needs carpet. Floors and trunk are rock solid. Rockers and quarters are also vey solid. Some surface rust starting. Car is a Kansas/Missouri car. I drove it over 200 miles home with no problems. Decent tires. 8 3/4 rear non-sure grip. Located in the Minneapolis area. Pics can be seen here: http://my.pclink.com/~sublime/71nyer.htm Make an offer! I don't want to part it or sell it to a demo derby guy. May put it on eBay if I get no takers soon. I can send more pics if needed. $1100/Make offer Thanks! Kent G. Olsen - Minnesota "MoPar Spoken Here" To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2dp8c at verizon.net Sat Jun 8 11:17:07 2002 From: vze2dp8c at verizon.net (Peter Engel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: vin decoder problem Message-ID: <3D022E03.74A14BB5@verizon.net> Did you use the letter O for model year instead of the number 0? Message Number: 20 Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 19:36:46 -0500 From: "dodgeboys" Subject: re:vin decoder I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back with unknown engine installed? -- REAL MEN DRIVE MOPARS To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From b1arno at attbi.com Sat Jun 8 13:16:15 2002 From: b1arno at attbi.com ( Arno Jacobi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: 318 swirl port heads Message-ID: <01e101c20f18$93ecda00$0100a8c0@c1019284a> Hi everyone, I am building a 360 for my 73 1/2 ton pickup. Forged pistons, 9.5 to 1 compression, mild cam. I'm looking for torque. I have some late model 360 heads that I pocket ported and had worked up. 1.88 int., 160 exh. I have come across a deal on some 318 closed chamber swirl port heads, cast #4323302. These heads were done by Hughes Engines, with a stage 1 port, 194 int. 160 exh. My question is, will these heads work well on a 360 for building torque? They have smaller int. runners for better velocity, but a larger int. valve. They also have considerably smaller exh. ports. Has anyone had experience putting these on a 360? Thanks Arno> To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From superbirdragtop at HOTMAIL.COM Sat Jun 8 11:49:42 2002 From: superbirdragtop at HOTMAIL.COM (andy .) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: Electronic ignition woes Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mopar.tamu.edu/pipermail/mml-test/attachments/20020608/6ade6dda/attachment.htm From j.grosso at ix.netcom.com Sun Jun 9 01:39:34 2002 From: j.grosso at ix.netcom.com (James Grosso) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: Quick Tic-Toc-Tach Question? Message-ID: <000901c20f80$6bb2b6a0$03000004@i5d8a3> OK, Quick Question about the 1968-1970 Tic-Toc-Tach. I had the tach out to install a new light lens, but I'm not sure how the connections studs come through the back case. Question #1. Is the Longer stud go towards the top or bottom of the gauge? Question #2. Which terminal is the power and which is the Ignition signal? Question #3. Which one has the spade terminal connected to it? Thanks in advance, Jim Grosso To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sat Jun 8 16:49:24 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: MMLers on the road. Message-ID: <3D027BE4.FB1D7CED@earthlink.net> Stu - Slaving away at the Bee, but maybe I can procrastinate a bit tonight and show up...where's it at? MidPenMopar@aol.com wrote: > Hello all you busy travelers, if anyone is interested in getting together for > a BBQ at my house on this coming Saturday evening, let me know. I am in South > San Francisco and would not mind hosting a get-together for any MMLers > interested. Maybe check out Dreamlot in the day and do this at dinner time. > It sounds like a few of you will be in area very close to me. I live about 5 > minutes form the airport (SFO) on top of the mountain with a killer view of > the Bay. Heck I'll feed you guys a great BBQ dinner and maybe we can tackle > that pesky 3310 Holley problem of mine. ;^) Anyone interested contact me > personally. > Stu > 70 roadrunner -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee http://www.moparalley.org Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net Sat Jun 8 09:33:37 2002 From: dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net (dodgeboys) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <200206080933.AA52691164@mail.ev1.net> yea the fifth digit is a J and the car came with a 340 6pak -- REAL MEN DRIVE MOPARS -- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net Sat Jun 8 09:33:37 2002 From: dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net (dodgeboys) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <200206080933.AA52691164@mail.ev1.net> yea the fifth digit is a J and the car came with a 340 6pak -- REAL MEN DRIVE MOPARS -- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Sat Jun 8 11:33:52 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: Subject: Installing 3.92 gears in Dakota Message-ID: <023d01c20f0a$481c50a0$1409b241@laptop> >Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 11:39:21 -0500 >From: "J. Elsmore" > >Hello, I have a mechanic who is going to install 3.92 gears >in my 99 Dodge Dakota this weekend. He did some checking >and said he needs a special tool to adjust the backlash for >the side carrier. I have been told it is called a spanner >adjuster wrench. Anyone know where to get this? SPX/Miller Special Tools www.spx.com , otherwise make the tool. iirc the web site used to have an on-line catalog, but its not there now. Call and ask for the printed catalog. Personally, I wouldn't have much confidence in your mechanic's ability to install a gearset if he doesn't have the necessary tool and doesn't know where to obtain one or can't make one. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jpilone at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 10 12:11:37 2002 From: jpilone at bellsouth.net (Jarrod Pilone) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: 70 300 Hurst spotted Message-ID: <001c01c210a1$e17c6440$3901a8c0@Christ> I know of a pair of '70 hursts for sale. one is a rolling body and is painted, the other has some bodywork done, but has a complete driveline to put in the painted one. he's selling the pair. they are in south florida if anyone is interested. Jarrod jpilone@bellsouth.net > >I always liked these too. > >There was always one @ Riverhead Chrysler on LI. Now I know where there is > >one parked on the street in Brooklyn. Anybody on the list? > >Weird thing is I thought they had a special Hurst shifter, but this one has > >a regular "chicken stick" on the tree. Has everything else, hood, trunk, > >paint, interior trim etc. > >I think the story is 500 made, plus one convertible that Hurst used for > >promotional purposes, I don't know what happened to it. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca Mon Jun 10 12:49:59 2002 From: andre at dns3.nipissingu.ca (Andre Roy) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: MiniVans Message-ID: <3D04E6C7.7020500@dns3.nipissingu.ca> Kevin Champ wrote: > Hello Everyone, > > We're looking at a 92 Grand Caravan with 3.3 and 4spd auto tranny. Its > got 100 k miles but seems to run and stop very well. I haven't been > keeping up with the FWD stuff and was wondering if this engine/tranny > package is any good? Does the 3.3l have any inherent weaknesses? The > body is very solid and the price is right but I don't want to be buying > into a bag of problems. > The 3.3 is a Chrysler engine through-and-through. The early four-speeds were problematic. I think '93 qualifies as 'early'. It was around then, anyway, that Chrysler figured out how to build then right. -- Andre -- You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From lrherman at optonline.net Mon Jun 10 13:07:35 2002 From: lrherman at optonline.net (lrherman@optonline.net) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: MiniVans Message-ID: Kevin, Avoid the 4 speed automatic like the plague! There were a lot of problems with the early (late '80s - early '90's) 4 speed "Ultradrive"/A604 transmissions. They were known for premature failure and are expen$ive to repair/replace. I don't know anything about the 3.3 engine. I'm sure others can fill in the blanks for you. Good luck. -- Lee Herman lrherman@optonline.net - AOL IM ID "dart69dude" - http://www.lhmopars.com 1969 Dodge Dart GT Convertible - 340-4bbl/A727 1987 Dodge Diplomat SE - Loaded! 1993 Toyota Camry V6 XLE, 1999 Toyota Camry Solara SLE V6 Original Message: ----------------- Hello Everyone, We're looking at a 92 Grand Caravan with 3.3 and 4spd auto tranny. Its got 100 k miles but seems to run and stop very well. I haven't been keeping up with the FWD stuff and was wondering if this engine/tranny package is any good? Does the 3.3l have any inherent weaknesses? The body is very solid and the price is right but I don't want to be buying into a bag of problems. -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From lrherman at optonline.net Mon Jun 10 13:20:26 2002 From: lrherman at optonline.net (lrherman@optonline.net) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: Labor Hours for Front End Rebuild Message-ID: Hi Dave, I can't speak for "E" bodies, but I just did the complete front end on my Dart in my driveway over two weekends. The hardest part (other than working without a lift!) seems to be removing and replacing the upper and lower control arm bushings. Assuming that your ball joints have been replaced before, they should come out by removing the bolt that hold them to the control arm and whacking the hell out of them with a hammer and joint separating fork. It took approximately four hours to disassemble the front end then my friend took my control arms and removed/replaced the bushings with his unique method that takes only about 1 hour for all four bushings. It took another four hours or so to reassemble plus I had to bring the car for an alignment. BTW, these times include pulling the steering column to replace the steering box. You can probably take an hour or so off the total if you're not doing the same. It also takes a lot less time if the car is being disassembled on a rack. Email with any questions. Good luck. -- Lee Herman lrherman@optonline.net - AOL IM ID "dart69dude" - http://www.lhmopars.com 1969 Dodge Dart GT Convertible - 340-4bbl/A727 1987 Dodge Diplomat SE - Loaded! 1993 Toyota Camry V6 XLE, 1999 Toyota Camry Solara SLE V6 Original Message: ----------------- For anyone who has had this done, what sort of labor charge can I expect ? I figure a WAG of ten hours labor, but have heard that the lower ball joints on a car with torsion bar suspension is a royal PIA and not a one person job. Anyone had this done lately (or tackled it themselves) ? -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From miconi at hotmail.com Mon Jun 10 13:20:52 2002 From: miconi at hotmail.com (Jon Miconi) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: Opinions needed Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Wood" > I went to look at a '27 Dodge Commercial truck. Its all there... and not > rusty, price tag is $500... what does the list think about the truck? the > price? If'n I where to get this truck... is it sacrilegious to make it a > hot rod or do I restore it??? HOT ROD! Especially if you squeeze a 426 under the hood. ;-) Jon Miconi `77 Ramcharger 440/727 `80 Ramcharger 360/727 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Michael at coyotent.com Mon Jun 10 13:22:11 2002 From: Michael at coyotent.com (Michael Quinn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: More Dorky Newbie Steering ? Message-ID: I was installing my new steering box to column fix kit this past weekend. I ran into a problem. The pin located on the steering shaft need to be pressed out? Correct or can I leave it in to reuse it. If I have to replace it do I pull the shaft out from the interior or what? Also, what type of grease do you pack the steering coupler? Can I drill and tap for a small zerk fitting and pack it that way? Thanks Later... Michael in Fullerton, Ca 1968 Dart GT 360/727/355. www.geocities.com/michaeluser To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 13:35:20 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <3D04F168.88FEB2A4@sedona.net> Hank, I have a friend that has a 440 six pack Challenger. He has run several passes under 12 sec. Mostly he's happy that the car runs really consistent low 12s (again for the afore mentioned costs, fire suit, roll cage, etc). This is nowhere near a "street car". Idling it sounds like one of the pro-street engines. He does occasionally drive it to the store or a local cruise in. But driving it more than 10 miles is out of the question. To run those times consistently he is running slicks. Hs car weighs about 3800 - 4000 pounds. That puts a real beating on things. Just run what you are comfortable with. And any car that can drive itself to the track and still run under 13 has my respect (unless the track is next door). Karl M. Hank Seestedt wrote: > snip > Then I tell her that I got the new > system and I am afraid that it will slow me down because everyone is > telling me that the mufflers were the cheap ones and I should have > gotten the Ultra Flow, or similar one. She replies, "Consistancy is > what counts!" I reply that everyone always gets on me because it is a > 440 and they say it should be in the 11s! Of course it is not their > problem to pay for and install that roll cage, wear that hot fire > jacket, and pay for those other parts that start to break when the > torque is applied, but they always want you to go as fast as they want > to see you go. snip > > ====>>>> > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior .... 64 Imperial, -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 13:49:25 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <3D04F4B5.78453E3A@sedona.net> All AAR and T/A cars were 340 - 6. Conversely the 340 - 6 was only available in the AAR or T/A. Karl M. Jon wrote: > On Sat, 8 Jun 2002, dodgeboys wrote: > > > yea the fifth digit is a J and the car came with a 340 6pak > > Oops, sorry about that, everyone - I knew the T/A and AAR came > with 340s but I didn't realize they were all 6 paks. > > Anyhoo... That code is in the decoder, and its working for me - > the only thing I can think of is maybe you transposed a couple of > digits by mistake? > > (http://www.jonsteiger.com/www/moparvin) > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mayerk at surfree.com Mon Jun 10 13:56:27 2002 From: mayerk at surfree.com (Kenneth Mayer) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: Subject: Brake problems now Message-ID: <002001c210b0$88c9a4c0$4409b041@laptop> >Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 12:07:23 -0400 >From: "Don Rey" > >The law of conservation of defects has struck again. Got the timing all set, >the vacuum advance is right, running great... now the brakes go bad. Ugh. >This is in my '74 Dart Sport with a '72 340. Front disc (original, not >conversion) power brakes. > >Okay, here goes: The brake malfunction light comes on after the first time I >hit the brakes, and stays on. And brakes are rather weak. I have to press >almost to the floor, and even then the stopping distance is a little farther >than it should be (still driveable though). There's no fluid leak... so I'm >thinking its the master cylinder. What should I do...? I don't know terribly >much about the brake system, although I'm a fast learner and I have the >books. > >She needs to be inspected before the 16th (temp plates expire then). This >problem has started very suddenly. Before I got the vacuum issue resolved (a >couple days ago) she was braking very strong. Since then, I clamped the >loose brake vacuum hose onto the intake manifold just to make sure it wasn't >a source of vacuum leak. Could that have created too much vacuum in the >master cyl? Should I look into master cylinder rebuild/replacement? The combination/proportioning valve has a shuttle that block off the failed side of the system and activates the warning light. An air bubble or brakes badly out of adjustment can mimic a hydraulic leak and cause the valve to activate. The light is also activated by the parking brake, so verify that it releases fully. First adjust the brakes (are the self-adjusting mechanisms operating?). Top off the master cylinder. Bleed the system working your way from the longest line to the shortest. Top off the master cylinder and repeat. With a helper its easy...apply pressure to the pedal, open the bleeder until the pedal goes to the floor, close the bleeder, release the pedal, repeat as required. NOTE: If you release the pedal with a bleeder open, you will draw air into the system. Without vacuum in the booster chamber, you should readily feel when all the air has been bled out of the system. When the system is properly bled, the combination valve should self-center the shuttle and extinguish the warning light. Ken :-) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net Mon Jun 10 13:57:28 2002 From: dodgeboys at mail.ev1.net (dodgeboys) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: vin decoder problem Message-ID: <200206101357.AA1512702082@mail.ev1.net> ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Peter Engel Reply-To: Peter Engel Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 12:17:07 -0400 >Did you use the letter O for model year instead of the number 0? >NO > > > -- REAL MEN DRIVE MOPARS -- To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 13:58:06 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:25 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <3D04F6BE.A3E2817@sedona.net> Interesting ...... my 70 Chally FSM doesn't list a J code at all. The listed codes are: B -198 Cu. In. C - 225 Cu. In. E - Special 6 G - 318 Cu. In. Std. H - 340 Cu. In. Std. L - 383 N - 383 Cu. In. H. P. R - 426 Cu. In. Hemi T - 440 Cu. In. Std. U - 440 Cu. In. H.P. V - 440 3 X 2 Z - Special 8 Karl M. Tem wrote: > A 340 Six Pack was a "J" code in 70. Previously, "J" was used for a Hemi, but that was changed to an "R" so > the "J" could be the 340. > > "Karl M." wrote: > > > If it was an original T/A it would have been the 340 six pack. The FSM for a 70 Chally does not have a > > letter designation for the 340 - 6 specifically. This seems to be the only engine that is not specifically > > listed. So I believe it would be a "Z - Special 8". The "340 Standard" was an H code. Strangely the same > > FSM also covers the Dart. ?????? How did they come up with that combination? If the Chally and Coronet / > > Charger were together I could understand that. > > > > Karl M. > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From groveautomotive at ka.net Mon Jun 10 13:58:04 2002 From: groveautomotive at ka.net (Dave Grove Grove Automotive) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Rear end gears - 53 Dodge pickup: Message-ID: <000f01c210b0$c317ca80$1c17ab41@autodoc3> 53 Dodge B4B pickup truck. This thing must have 5.0 to 1 gears in it. At 53 mph, the poor little L6 is all but "tached-out". Anyone know if there would be another ring & pinion that could be used in this truck? - possibly from a pass car of this era? Something that would be a bit better for "cruising". Thanks, DaveG. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Jens.Kriete at t-online.de Mon Jun 10 16:02:00 2002 From: Jens.Kriete at t-online.de (Jens Kriete) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Labor Hours for Front End Rebuild Message-ID: <17HUQh-0wv8jaC@fwd06.sul.t-online.com> Hello Dave, I have done this on both of my cars although I never renewed the upper balljoints. I felt I better not touch them unless I really had to. I had some problems getting all the conical joints separated (tie rod ends, lower ball joints). Because I couldn?t manage it under the car I finally removed all parts from the car and took them to a big strong vise. Use a removal tools to separate those parts. Two big hammers are a good help. Smack on the outer eye from both sides. With the additional tension from the tools this should loosen it. On my first rebuild I put the outer eye of the lower ball joint into the vise and really squeezed it tight. Then I hammered on the thread with the nut loosened but still on. This will probably harm the thread but it will work if you hit really hard. As you plan to scrap the old joints anyway you can use a torch as well. I always got those parts separated without heat. A front end rebuild (without upper ball joint) took me about a weekend. One day per side. You?ll need some cylindrical tools to press the bushings in and out. No need of a press if you have a big and strong vise. If I had the perfect tools I might have done it in one and a half day, but not less. You will have to disassemble the whole front suspension except for the steering box and maybe the idler arm. I will always do this on my own again. Greetings Jens 70 Challenger R/T 71 Super Bee schrieb: > >Hi: > >The tie rods etc. on my 'Cuda were worse than I expected, and can not wait >the 12 Months I had originally planned for replacing them. > >I ordered the non-poly delux-kit from PST which arrives this week, and has >the idler arm & inner tie rods and so forth. > >For anyone who has had this done, what sort of labor charge can I expect ? I >figure a WAG of ten hours labor, but have heard that the lower ball joints >on a car with torsion bar suspension is a royal PIA and not a one person >job. > >Anyone had this done lately (or tackled it themselves) ? > > >Dave >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 14:18:15 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Backup lite ? Message-ID: <3D04FB77.1D2EA9E6@sedona.net> Starting in about 70 or so (don't remember the exact year) they used a 3 prong neutral safety start switch / reverse light switch that screwed into the trans body where the previous neutral start switch was. Just find one of those. IIRC the center pin is for the neutral start and the 2 outer pins are for the backup lights. Something in the back of my mind tells me that you can buy the connector that plugs onto the back of the switch from the dealer. It's got a pigtail of about 8" of wire IIRC. However note that the shaft / lever that moves the selector valve (inside the trans) is a little different. The arm that activates the switch has a plastic piece on part of it. This is the part that activates the backup contacts. If your trans is a 70 or later it should already be set up for that style switch and it should have the switch in it. Hope this helps. Karl M. TM wrote: > Hi all, > Just got the 727 AT installed in my 72 Duster. It was a 3 on > the floor stick. So I had to get a new shifter for the AT. I got a Hurst > Vmatic 2. Now I have to get the back up lights working again. Anyone > have any idea how to wire this up ? > Thanks, > Todd > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 14:48:38 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Brake problems now Message-ID: <3D050296.E026B04B@sedona.net> Sounds like the master cylinder is "by passing" internally . First just to check and help with the conservation of money check the adjustment of the rear brakes. Then I'd bleed the brake system. If the problem persists then I'd opt for replacing the master cylinder / power booster as a rebuilt assembly. Karl M. Don Rey wrote: > The law of conservation of defects has struck again. Got the timing all set, > the vacuum advance is right, running great... now the brakes go bad. Ugh. > This is in my '74 Dart Sport with a '72 340. Front disc (original, not > conversion) power brakes. > > Okay, here goes: The brake malfunction light comes on after the first time I > hit the brakes, and stays on. And brakes are rather weak. I have to press > almost to the floor, and even then the stopping distance is a little farther > than it should be (still driveable though). There's no fluid leak... so I'm > thinking its the master cylinder. What should I do...? I don't know terribly > much about the brake system, although I'm a fast learner and I have the > books. > > She needs to be inspected before the 16th (temp plates expire then). This > problem has started very suddenly. Before I got the vacuum issue resolved (a > couple days ago) she was braking very strong. Since then, I clamped the > loose brake vacuum hose onto the intake manifold just to make sure it wasn't > a source of vacuum leak. Could that have created too much vacuum in the > master cyl? Should I look into master cylinder rebuild/replacement? > > Thanks in advance!!! > > Don > 74 Dart Sport 340 -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jon at dakota-truck.net Mon Jun 10 15:59:49 2002 From: jon at dakota-truck.net (Jon) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: MML Calendar Reminder Message-ID: Hi folks, I just wanted to send out a reminder to everyone that you've got about two and a half months to get your pictures to me for consideration for the MML Calendar. (I need to have the pictures in my hands by August 31.) For those of you who may not have heard, I am doing an MML Calendar, which will be a full color 2003 calendar featuring MML members' cars. Basically, right now I am collecting pictures from anyone who would like to send them in, then after the 8/31 deadline, I will put all the pictures up on a web site and open them up to voting for a week. MML members will vote for their favorite pics, and the top vehicles get into the calendar. Due to the quality required, the pictures must be actual photographs, digital cameras or printouts from a digital camera just don't have the nescessary quality. (If you don't have a 35mm camera, what some people have done in the past is to pick up a cheap disposable.) You can mail the photos to: Jon Steiger 836 King Road Forestville, NY 14062 If you would like them returned, please include an SASE. (Or, if you are planning on buying a calendar, and would like me to mail your pics back with your calendar, just make a note of that.) I will also be at Carlisle if you would prefer to give them to me in person. I expect I should be hanging somewhere around the Dakota Mailing List tent. I'll try to remember to bring along a copy of the 2002 DML Calendar in case anyone would be interested in seeing what the MML Calendars will be like. If anyone has any questions, comments, etc. please feel free to get in touch. TTYL! -Jon- .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----' To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Mon Jun 10 16:27:01 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Need info on '74 Barracuda options! Message-ID: <000a01c210c5$914adf00$7192fea9@computer> Please enlighten me on the options for stripes, hood pins, and rear wings on the '74 model. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Mon Jun 10 16:29:10 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Please respond directly..... '74 Barracuda options! Message-ID: <001101c210c5$dd146be0$7192fea9@computer> My ISP is not forwarding digests at this time...... > Please enlighten me on the options for stripes, hood pins, and rear wings on > the '74 model. > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 16:34:43 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Cars for sale in CA Message-ID: <3D051B73.6AA78E0E@sedona.net> I have a friend in central CA that has a couple of Mopars for sale. First is a '67 Coronet 2 dr, ht; white; dk blue interior, bench seat all new, new dash pad, new headliner, new carpet; new 380 hp 360 Magnum crate engine, Edelbrock intake, headers; 727 a/t , completely rebuilt, stall converter; front end rebuilt; a/c (all new using R-12); 14" rally wheels. This car is a complete resto-mod. He said that he has about $20,000 invested in this car. He is trying to cut down on his fleet so he said that he would let it go to a good home for $12,000. I should have some pics in a few days. Second is a 65 Imperial Le Baron 4 dr, ht; 413, etc. This car has also been completely rebuilt. It is dark green metallic / green interior. I have a pic of this car. If anyone would like to see it I can e-mail to you. He is asking $5000 for this one. My friend is not a computer person and doesn't do much on the net. He does have an e-mail address but I am fielding questions for him to start off with. I believe that there is some room for negotiation on both of these cars. Karl M. -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From duffys_hotrods at msn.com Mon Jun 10 16:34:52 2002 From: duffys_hotrods at msn.com (PHILLIP DUFF) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Need Help in Tucson. Message-ID: Hi All, Well, I am in need of some one in Tucson to look at and adjust a clutch for my daughter if possible. It is on a japanese mopar.... well Eclipse. Kind of close. It is a '93 and I am not sure that they can be adjusted but don't want her to take it somewhere and get ripped. Thank you all in advance, and Mopar To Ya. Take Care, Phil Duff '73 Challenger Rallye _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tigers at bserv.com Mon Jun 10 17:00:17 2002 From: tigers at bserv.com (Bob Tom) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20020610174159.009f6ec0@bserv.com> Hi, Hank. At 11:25 AM 6/9/02 -0400, Hank Seestedt wrote: >-- SNIP -- Well, two things, I am back to the BF Goodrich, >and I am very happy with the X pipe set up! > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior Glad to hear you're happy with your new exhaust setup. Know you put a lot of thought into it. Not too happy to hear about your experience with MT DOTs. I'm replacing the BFGs (almost at the wear bars) with the MTs this year ($140CDN per cheaper than the BFGs and Shane Baker has had good 60' times on them with his Dak R/T). I haven't run with the MTs yet ... matter of fact, haven't been to the track this year (lock track renovations have not been completed!). I'll be heading off to another track Sat. (2 hours drive) to see what the ported heads will do but will be running on the BFGs for comparison purposes. Did you do extra long burnouts on the MTs the first couple of times? I've been told that it takes a couple of those and then 'normal' ones for optimal traction. BTW, is the DIRT list still going? If so, do you have their new url? Thanks, Bob. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Michael at coyotent.com Mon Jun 10 17:03:05 2002 From: Michael at coyotent.com (Michael Quinn) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: Rear end gears - 53 Dodge pickup: Message-ID: Hey Dave are you sure it has 5:10 gear set? Jack up truck and the spin the rear wheels and count the revolutions of the tire(s) versus revolutions for the drive shaft. The drive shaft should (approx.) 5 time for one of the tire. All things being stock, i.e., tire and rear ratio. You could go to a taller tire. Of course this might not help much, if the final drive of the tranny is low gear, which it probably needed is since that L6 doesn't rev much. I think switching gears really won't help much, because of power to weight being what it is with the motor and heavy truck. If you do find something, try 3:50-4:00 rang gears. This really won't be too bad, and still give you some power. I'm if I am wrong someone will correct me. Later... Michael in Fullerton, Ca 1968 Dart GT 360/727/355. www.geocities.com/michaeluser > ---------- > From: Dave Grove Grove Automotive > Reply To: Dave Grove Grove Automotive > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 11:58 AM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: Rear end gears - 53 Dodge pickup: > > 53 Dodge B4B pickup truck. This thing must have 5.0 to 1 gears in it. At > 53 mph, the poor little L6 is all but "tached-out". Anyone know if there > would be another ring & pinion that could be used in this truck? - > possibly > from a pass car of this era? Something that would be a bit better for > "cruising". > > Thanks, > DaveG. > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From unclecuda at hotmail.com Mon Jun 10 17:29:20 2002 From: unclecuda at hotmail.com (uncle cuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:31 2004 Subject: 70 300 Hurst spotted Message-ID: >Only one...? If so, this would be the one that was used to parade Linda >Vaughn around at drag races etc. If this is the case, it's probably still >around somewhere. I have a couple of photos of the car somewhere, shot >at the Bristol Spring Nats. > > >tony.. I'm no expert, so it might be as many as 2 or 3, but I think it was only one. Hurst specifically held on to the convert for promotional purposes. I think that "promotional purposes" at Hurst equates to parading Linda Vaughn around. ROb _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From unclecuda at hotmail.com Mon Jun 10 17:34:48 2002 From: unclecuda at hotmail.com (uncle cuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: NY emmissions question Message-ID: Anybody know the NY emmissions control laws. My cars are registered on Long Island and need an check. It is done on a chassis dyno. My '70 'cuda just gets a safety check. I want to know when they stop testing. Also is there a rule about the "looks" of the exhaust? or is it just the # on the sniffer? I want to put dual exhaust on my '83 Imperial and '79 Ramcharger. Wouldn't mind going with dual high flow cats, but I'm not spending the $$$ until I know it will pass. Rob _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From duffys_hotrods at msn.com Mon Jun 10 18:14:15 2002 From: duffys_hotrods at msn.com (PHILLIP DUFF) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: FS: one owner '63 Dodge 3/4 ton in CO Message-ID: Hi Again Everyone, If anyone is interested... My Uncle is wanting to sell my Grandfathers old '63 Dodge 3/4 ton pickup. It has a very good running 318LA engine, 4-speed tranny and heavy duty rearend. It doesn't smoke or overheat, and starts every time. The left front wheel refuses to turn however, (spindle frozen), and the body (rockers and floor) has rust. It would be a good parts truck or ??? I remember the day my grandfather brought it home, new. If I lived closer, I would take it myself, but the wife would definitely hurt me!!!! It is located in Lafayette, Colorado. Anyone who wants it, email me offlist for the contact info. Mopar To Ya!!! Regards, Phil Duff '73 Challenger Rallye _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From jimmieam at oro.net Mon Jun 10 19:05:45 2002 From: jimmieam at oro.net (Jimmie) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: MiniVans Message-ID: <003f01c210db$c0d71ac0$b46c4dd1@jimmieam> Well, I have a 92 Grand Caravan and have just about 170,000 miles on it. Over all it has been a good vehicle. Have had NO trouble with the 3.3. Now the transmission...well that has been a problem. It was totally rebuilt once under warranty. (around 60,000) And now it tends to slip at times and act up. Not so much that I can't drive it, but its not right. Course with 170,000 miles I see no reason to fix it ($1000s). I will drive it until I have to leave it dead along side the road. Hope this helps, Jimmie in Northern California 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger 340-4spd, Go Mango in color (original paint) http://briefcase.yahoo.com/jam_firefighter 1965 Plymouth Belvedere Station Wagon 360-Auto (New Project) 2001 Chrysler Concorde LXI "Rose" (Wife's car) ----- Original Message ----- From: Kevin Champ To: Multiple recipients of MoPar Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 9:22 AM Subject: MiniVans > > Hello Everyone, > > We're looking at a 92 Grand Caravan with 3.3 and 4spd auto tranny. Its > got 100 k miles but seems to run and stop very well. I haven't been > keeping up with the FWD stuff and was wondering if this engine/tranny > package is any good? Does the 3.3l have any inherent weaknesses? The > body is very solid and the price is right but I don't want to be buying > into a bag of problems. > > Thanks for any input, > > Kevin > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From HemiDog at wzrd.com Mon Jun 10 19:19:12 2002 From: HemiDog at wzrd.com (WildDog Motor Sports) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: MiniVans Message-ID: Hi Mopar fans It seems odd that this question came up now. 3 or 4 weeks ago for some yet unexplained reason the trans cooler "exploded" inside the radiator. What a mess!! I have never heard of this before and the guys at the garage said they had only seen it one other time. Anyway, I had it flushed, several times and then last week - you guessed it.. the trans had to be rebuilt. All the clutches and bands had become de-laminated and the tq converter was trashed! What an expensive ordeal The van is a '97 Voyager with the 3 speed OD unit. Karl Stoll WildDog Motor Sports '86 RamCharger Plow Truck (The "Battle Cruiser") '89 Plymouth Voyager (The "Nancy Van") '91 Dodge PU the tow vehicle ("Goldie") '97 Dodge Caravan (The "Daddy Van") '70 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda (currently a Drag Car) It's not the SIZE of the DOG in the FIGHT but the SIZE of the FIGHT in the DOG! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Ms68mopar1 at aol.com Mon Jun 10 19:22:23 2002 From: Ms68mopar1 at aol.com (Ms68mopar1@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Race Car Driving Schools? Message-ID: There is the Frank Hawley school in Pomona I went to and had a blast 5 burn outs and 3 1/8 mile runs and 2 1/4 mile runs in a Super Comp Dragster. I loved it. For more Info. contact me. Ms. Mopar (Yvonne) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Mon Jun 10 19:40:56 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil... Message-ID: <3D054718.E12D9480@earthlink.net> Say what you will about this stuff, I don't swear by it, but I tried something with it today that I hadn't before, pouring it down the carb. I must have had a LOT of carbon buildup, because the Fury ran noticably smoother afterward. Might have cleaned the plugs as well, that could make a difference. This stuff goes everywhere, doesn't it? Crankcase, gas, down the carb for deposit removal...wonder if I can brush my teeth with it? -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee http://www.moparalley.org Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com Mon Jun 10 21:50:28 2002 From: Tom at AutoTechUnlimited.com (Tom Hunsaker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <3D056574.7070708@AutoTechUnlimited.com> Joe Barchesky wrote: >I beg to differ, well on peoples comments about why is >it so slow. 12s for a street car is pretty damn good >if you ask me. I really doubt you'd lose to many >street races if you were to race. My goal was to >build an 11 second car, but I dunno sometimes, I don't >want to lose the ability to drive it alot. I will be >going to the nats, Carlilse, probally even the >atlantic nats next year. > I agree with Hank and others. I also get the 'low 11's? Is that all you can do?' A lot of people who haven't done it don't realize how hard those 10th are to knock off. It comes a few 100th at a time. As far as me running low 11's and driving it on the street, well I really wouldn't consider my car a 'street car'. If you have a 4.56 rear and have to run race gas then it really isn't practical. (But it sure is fun!) My limit is about a 60 mile round trip. At 5 mpg and $3.75 per gallon it can get expensive! Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker Springboro, Ohio 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From farichms at westol.com Mon Jun 10 22:01:27 2002 From: farichms at westol.com (Michael/Suzanne Farich) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: MiniVans Message-ID: <002e01c210f4$478eca00$a033c518@piii550> 15 years ago I worked at Ford. While watching the first few '88 Taurus/Sables roll down the line, an older, more experienced engineer was commenting about various things that came to his mind as he pointed around under the hood at things. He said since plastic radiator tanks came out, there have been a few cases where the engine/transmission assembly had a bad electrical ground and part of the ground path ended up going through the coolant to the trans cooler and then to the chassis somehow. The result was that electrolytic action dissolved away the cooler inside the radiator until the result was just as you described. Maybe that is what happened to yours. The reason your trans went soon after is that the friction material is pressed paper. If it ever gets wet it is ruined. New frictions would fix it. Mike Hi Mopar fans It seems odd that this question came up now. 3 or 4 weeks ago for some yet unexplained reason the trans cooler "exploded" inside the radiator. What a mess!! I have never heard of this before and the guys at the garage said they had only seen it one other time. Anyway, I had it flushed, several times and then last week - you guessed it.. the trans had to be rebuilt. All the clutches and bands had become de-laminated and the tq converter was trashed! What an expensive ordeal The van is a '97 Voyager with the 3 speed OD unit. Karl Stoll WildDog Motor Sports '86 RamCharger Plow Truck (The "Battle Cruiser") '89 Plymouth Voyager (The "Nancy Van") '91 Dodge PU the tow vehicle ("Goldie") '97 Dodge Caravan (The "Daddy Van") '70 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda (currently a Drag Car) It's not the SIZE of the DOG in the FIGHT but the SIZE of the FIGHT in the DOG! To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dddaty at attbi.com Mon Jun 10 22:20:05 2002 From: dddaty at attbi.com (Daty Rogers) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <01d201c210f6$e1f31a40$1702a8c0@HOME> I wonder if the MT experience had more to do with radials up front and bias plys in the back. I understand that makes for really screwy handling... -Daty > Glad to hear you're happy with your new exhaust setup. Know you put a > lot of thought into it. Not too happy to hear about your experience > with MT DOTs To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 22:10:16 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Looking for 70 Chally history Message-ID: <3D056A18.758453AB@sedona.net> A friend that has a 440 Six Pack 70 Challenger is trying to find info / history on his car. This car is REALLY built. We believe that it is an original Scat Pak car. The trans for one thing is not any normal hemi A833. Everything inside the trans is not like any other A833 he (or several other people that trade allot of these trannies) have. There are allot of unanswered questions about the car as the fender tag is not in place. It was removed before it got it's last paint job (probably some time in the early 70's). As a matter of fact we are looking for people that were hanging around Lyons and Irwindale in the 70 - 72 era that might remember the car. He found someone that thinks the car was run at the tracks around the So. Cal. area. At that time it may have been it's original color that appears to be close to a teal blue with a black top. It is now Plum Crazy. We also think the car was run up in Page AZ for a while. It was stored for many years before my friend got it. The engine is far from stock. If he could ever get it to hook the entire length of the track it would probably be a very low 11 sec pass (it has made a few passes under 12 sec). That's a 4000 pound car. :o So ask around if you know anyone that was running those tracks in the early 70s. Thanks, Karl M. -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gd1996 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 10 23:05:28 2002 From: gd1996 at yahoo.com (Joe Barchesky) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <20020611040528.46453.qmail@web13306.mail.yahoo.com> I wonder where you guys hang out at and who you are around hearing 12s and even 11s isn't that fast. I bought some heads/cams and other stuff from a guy that was running low to mid 11s in his satellite. Now for him to go from a best of 11.2 to mid 10s, not that I know an exact number, but it had to be alot of money, 2-3k in heads alone. 11s in my mind are flying, but again once your there you want to go faster. I guess there is that point where the car isn't very good for the street anymore. I'd like to push it and find out. > > > I agree with Hank and others. I also get the 'low > 11's? Is that all you > can do?' A lot of people who haven't done it don't > realize how hard > those 10th are to knock off. It comes a few 100th at > a time. As far as > me running low 11's and driving it on the street, > well I really wouldn't > consider my car a 'street car'. If you have a 4.56 > rear and have to run > race gas then it really isn't practical. (But it > sure is fun!) My limit > is about a 60 mile round trip. At 5 mpg and $3.75 > per gallon it can get > expensive! > > > Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker > Springboro, Ohio > 1969 Hemi Barracuda Fastback > 1966 Chrysler Newport Hardtop > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/thomashunsaker/HemiCuda > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From MAGNASEKA at aol.com Mon Jun 10 23:17:51 2002 From: MAGNASEKA at aol.com (MAGNASEKA@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <5E7883CF.61CDF644.022DE66C@aol.com> I've always been a fan of 12 to 13 sec cars that can still be street driven. I fully intend to drive my demon to the track, run it and drive it home. I have nothing against going faster or owning a race only car. but my focus right now is if I can't drive it around when I want to, it's not much good to me. I haven't track timed it yet but I'm shooting for low 13's. I have to check the hra rulebook to find the cut when you have to add a cage and firesuit. That's more than I'm interested in. PS: I personally prefer the Ultra flows to the super turbos, they are much quieter and the car sounds great. Maybe one day I'll try the radio to see if it works, I just like cruising listening to the dual exhaust! Martin Watts 1995 Intrepid 1972 Demon 340 (not original) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sat Jun 8 16:49:24 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: MMLers on the road. Message-ID: <3D027BE4.FB1D7CED@earthlink.net> Stu - Slaving away at the Bee, but maybe I can procrastinate a bit tonight and show up...where's it at? MidPenMopar@aol.com wrote: > Hello all you busy travelers, if anyone is interested in getting together for > a BBQ at my house on this coming Saturday evening, let me know. I am in South > San Francisco and would not mind hosting a get-together for any MMLers > interested. Maybe check out Dreamlot in the day and do this at dinner time. > It sounds like a few of you will be in area very close to me. I live about 5 > minutes form the airport (SFO) on top of the mountain with a killer view of > the Bay. Heck I'll feed you guys a great BBQ dinner and maybe we can tackle > that pesky 3310 Holley problem of mine. ;^) Anyone interested contact me > personally. > Stu > 70 roadrunner -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee http://www.moparalley.org Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From thewingnut at earthlink.net Sun Jun 9 16:20:30 2002 From: thewingnut at earthlink.net (A.J. Hunt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Mid-Pen BBQ... Message-ID: <3D03C69E.17709E1D@earthlink.net> Hey folks, had a great time last night. Stu's an awesome host, and his garage is a great tribute to the hobby and hanging out in general! Love the nostalgia. Was great meeting Ogre, Kevin, Steve, Joe, seeing John, George, Joanne and the rest of the gang. Had some great laughs and a hoot watching Death Race 2000. Sorry if I missed your names, folks, but all the faces are there... -- --- A.J. 'The Wingnut' Hunt Editor, the MoPar Alley Bee http://www.moparalley.org Leslie - 'PRSOOT' '72 Fury III 4-door, lotsa cop goodies. http://www.thewingnut.com/fury.htm To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From dardoin at houston.rr.com Mon Jun 10 23:50:46 2002 From: dardoin at houston.rr.com (David Ardoin) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Opinions needed Message-ID: <00de01c21103$8d5a88d0$473da218@junebug1> Max, I have a similar problem. I picked up a 1930 Ford 5 window coupe about a year ago. My original intent was to build a killer hemi powered street rod. Problem is every time I hit the swap meets looking for odds and ends for it I get one hell of a guilt trip laid on me by the old timers. The car is complete enough to restore it, hell I still have the original set of keys. It looks like hell but it is almost all there. I have not tried to start it yet, but the motor is not stuck and if some creep hadn't stolen the hood and distributor I would have already fired it up. I managed to pick up a distributor and a hood on ebag this week and will try to fire it up in the near future. I still lean towards the street rod, for a couple of reasons. 1) An all Steel Model A street rod is worth much more if I ever decided to sell it. 2) I have always loved the look of a 5 window coupe with a slight chop and all the traditional hot rod goodies. I can buy one already restored to original for about half what a street rod version would cost to buy. As far as I am concerned, My model A is much more common than the Dodge Brothers truck you have found. In your case I would probably step back and take an inventory of what is missing and what can be purchased for it. If it looks like it will only need cosmetics and a rebuild of the power train, I say restore it. On the other hand if the block is cracked or the transmission is trashed or it has some other major problem, then it might make more sense to sell off the hard to find parts to someone restoring theirs and use the money to finance your version of the truck complete with all the goodies you want. Then drive it till the wheels fall off. Enjoy it. Dave > > > Max Wood wrote: > > > > > > > > Today I was in one of those old nasty barns you only dream about... > you > > [Snip] > > > > > price? If'n I where to get this truck... is it sacrilegious to make > it a > > > > hot rod or do I restore it??? > > > > > > > > Opinions are needed... > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Tue Jun 11 00:04:38 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <3D0584E6.2FF157F@sedona.net> At the tracks that I have experience at, the roll cage, fire suit (at least a jacket), and fuel cell are required for vehicles running et's lower than 12.0 sec. But if you are running under 14.0 sec a helmet, scattershield and I think a drive line loop are required. I have a friend that builds engines that helped a friend of his put together a 68 or 69 Barracuda. This was a junkyard 360 engine that ran well. A good valve job, a Crower Baja Beast cam, some 3.91 gears, 727 trans, headers and an Edelbrock intake. The car made a best pass of 13.54 and consistently around 13.6. They would drive it from Grover City (in central CA) to Famoso Drag Strip (near Bakersfield CA) approx 150 miles each way and race it all day then drive it home. He said that it got about 15 mpg even with the low gears. Now that's a street car and mid 13s are pretty quick. Karl M. MAGNASEKA@aol.com wrote: > I've always been a fan of 12 to 13 sec cars that can still be street driven. I fully intend to drive my demon to the track, run it and drive it home. I have nothing against going faster or owning a race only car. but my focus right now is if I can't drive it around when I want to, it's not much good to me. I haven't track timed it yet but I'm shooting for low 13's. I have to check the hra rulebook to find the cut when you have to add a cage and firesuit. That's more than I'm interested in. PS: I personally prefer the Ultra flows to the super turbos, they are much quieter and the car sounds great. Maybe one day I'll try the radio to see if it works, I just like cruising listening to the dual exhaust! > > Martin Watts > 1995 Intrepid > 1972 Demon 340 (not original) -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From paulholm at ameritech.net Tue Jun 11 00:16:13 2002 From: paulholm at ameritech.net (paulholm) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Opinions needed Message-ID: <3D05879D.4B2142A3@ameritech.net> David Ardoin wrote: > Max, > I have a similar problem. I picked up a 1930 Ford 5 window coupe > about a year ago. My original intent was to build a killer hemi > powered street rod. > Problem is every time I hit the swap meets looking for odds and > ends for it I get one hell of a guilt trip laid on me by the old > timers. snip > I still lean towards the street rod, for a couple of reasons. > 1) An all Steel Model A street rod is worth much more if I ever > decided to sell it. > 2) I have always loved the look of a 5 window coupe with a slight > chop and all the traditional hot rod goodies. Man this brings back memories. MANY years ago, when I was a LOT younger, a friend and I shared an old beat up 5 window coupe. We stripped out all excess material. Installed a stone stock 325 hp 1957 392 hemi. Found an old blower case (no internals), made a aluminum plate to bolt to the stock intake, stuck the carb inside the blower case and put it all in that old Ford. Had a lot of fun for 1-1/2 years driving that thing around. About as unsafe as possible and still driveable. Every now and then we would rip the rear end out from under that car, too much torque for the rear links we had. -- Paul Holmgren Hoosier Corps #33, L-6 2 57 300-C's in Indy To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From vze2dp8c at verizon.net Sat Jun 8 11:17:07 2002 From: vze2dp8c at verizon.net (Peter Engel) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: vin decoder problem Message-ID: <3D022E03.74A14BB5@verizon.net> Did you use the letter O for model year instead of the number 0? Message Number: 20 Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 19:36:46 -0500 From: "dodgeboys" Subject: re:vin decoder I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back with unknown engine installed? -- REAL MEN DRIVE MOPARS To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From unclecuda at hotmail.com Sun Jun 9 12:28:41 2002 From: unclecuda at hotmail.com (uncle cuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: > > > I put the vin for my 70 challenger T/A in the decoder and it came back >with unknown engine installed? > > > > What is the 5th digit of your VIN? (And do you know which engine > > the car was built with?) > > > > -Jon- > > > >Psst, I think he had a 170 in it 8-> Don't tease Jon he's a new mopar man & he already has a big block '70 'Cuda :) The TAs all came with the 340 six pack, but wasn't that listed on the vin as with a "special order" number, so a decoder couldn't know which engine was? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 06:08:56 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Challenger discs on a Coronet? Message-ID: <3D0488C8.E23C7FAD@sedona.net> Yes. But you also need the master cylinder and proportioning valve so you will also need to change the plumbing to the valve. Oh and by the way ..... what cam and rear gears are you running in your 72 Dart? Karl M. Dave Kranz wrote: > Does anyone know if '70 - '72 Challenger spindles, discs and calipers > will work on a '66 Coronet front drum car? > > Dave > > -- > '66 Coronet 500 440 4 speed (project) > '72 Scamp 360+++ 727 (sleeper) 13.89 @ 99.7 > '72 Dart /6 904 (parts) > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Mon Jun 10 13:58:06 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <3D04F6BE.A3E2817@sedona.net> Interesting ...... my 70 Chally FSM doesn't list a J code at all. The listed codes are: B -198 Cu. In. C - 225 Cu. In. E - Special 6 G - 318 Cu. In. Std. H - 340 Cu. In. Std. L - 383 N - 383 Cu. In. H. P. R - 426 Cu. In. Hemi T - 440 Cu. In. Std. U - 440 Cu. In. H.P. V - 440 3 X 2 Z - Special 8 Karl M. Tem wrote: > A 340 Six Pack was a "J" code in 70. Previously, "J" was used for a Hemi, but that was changed to an "R" so > the "J" could be the 340. > > "Karl M." wrote: > > > If it was an original T/A it would have been the 340 six pack. The FSM for a 70 Chally does not have a > > letter designation for the 340 - 6 specifically. This seems to be the only engine that is not specifically > > listed. So I believe it would be a "Z - Special 8". The "340 Standard" was an H code. Strangely the same > > FSM also covers the Dart. ?????? How did they come up with that combination? If the Chally and Coronet / > > Charger were together I could understand that. > > > > Karl M. > > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From penick at nettally.com Mon Jun 10 16:29:10 2002 From: penick at nettally.com (Penick) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Please respond directly..... '74 Barracuda options! Message-ID: <001101c210c5$dd146be0$7192fea9@computer> My ISP is not forwarding digests at this time...... > Please enlighten me on the options for stripes, hood pins, and rear wings on > the '74 model. > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From duffys_hotrods at msn.com Mon Jun 10 16:34:52 2002 From: duffys_hotrods at msn.com (PHILLIP DUFF) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: Need Help in Tucson. Message-ID: Hi All, Well, I am in need of some one in Tucson to look at and adjust a clutch for my daughter if possible. It is on a japanese mopar.... well Eclipse. Kind of close. It is a '93 and I am not sure that they can be adjusted but don't want her to take it somewhere and get ripped. Thank you all in advance, and Mopar To Ya. Take Care, Phil Duff '73 Challenger Rallye _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From unclecuda at hotmail.com Mon Jun 10 17:34:48 2002 From: unclecuda at hotmail.com (uncle cuda) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:32 2004 Subject: NY emmissions question Message-ID: Anybody know the NY emmissions control laws. My cars are registered on Long Island and need an check. It is done on a chassis dyno. My '70 'cuda just gets a safety check. I want to know when they stop testing. Also is there a rule about the "looks" of the exhaust? or is it just the # on the sniffer? I want to put dual exhaust on my '83 Imperial and '79 Ramcharger. Wouldn't mind going with dual high flow cats, but I'm not spending the $$$ until I know it will pass. Rob _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mml at heminet.com Tue Jun 11 02:10:38 2002 From: mml at heminet.com (Ted Moore) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Fired Right Up - No Oil Pressure Message-ID: Dear MMLers, Well after months of dis-assembly and re-assembly, the 89 2.5 T1 LeBaron is finally back together. My biggest fear was that after replacing the oil pump and doing the rod bearings, I would have an oil pressure problem. It fired right up, but (you got it) - no oil pressure. Now, I did prime the pump, at least I think I did. Having never done this before, I put as much oil as I could into the top of the pump, moved it around and repeated. It sat for a few weeks in the car before I got around to starting it. I ran the engine for about ten to 15 seconds three times, saw NO movement on the gauge. So now, in trouble shooting mode, I have many questions: Where the heck is the oil pressure sensor? Not obvious to me (or to the authors of the FSM and other manuals I own). Is it possible to tell if I am getting oil circulation by removing the new oil filter? e.g. If it is full of oil am I getting circulation? How long do I need to run the engine before expecting to see oil pressure on the gauge? How long can I run the engine without damaging it if I am not getting oil circulation? Can I run it a bit more if I pull the plugs and squirt oil in? I desperately do not want to pull that oil pan again in this lifetime, is there any other way to trouble shoot or fix the problem? Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions. Ted Moore-Carefree AZ www.heminet.com www.TnTNetwork.com 70 RR (sold) www.heminet.com/mycar.asp?heminetid=7900 75 XCab D200 Adventurer SE 440 Copper; 86 Daytona T1 Z/CS-White; 87 Shelby Lancer(5spd #252) 89 LeBaron www.heminet.com/feature.asp?heminetid=7901 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From NyJimster at aol.com Sun Jun 9 18:30:45 2002 From: NyJimster at aol.com (NyJimster@aol.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Mopar for sale in NY Message-ID: Selling my 98 neon R/T. Blue w/ grey stripes, 50k. Car is in great shape. E-mail if interested. Jim To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Tue Jun 11 07:24:00 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: On 06/10/2002 11:20:05 PM "Daty Rogers" wrote: > I wonder if the MT experience had more to do with radials up front and bias plys in the back. I understand that makes for really screwy handling... >-Daty > **** Daty, I think this is a part of it. I have talked to several including John Pehlman and all of them say they get this to some extent when they go down the track. This is why very few, unless they are within a couple miles, drive to the track with the M/T biased tires on the back. Certainly not down the turnpike or a freeway! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; Burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but did go everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Tue Jun 11 07:31:55 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: On 06/10/2002 10:50:28 PM Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker wrote: > I agree with Hank and others. I also get the 'low 11's? Is that all you can do?' A lot of people who haven't done it don't realize how hard those 10th are to knock off. It comes a few 100th at a time. As far as me running low 11's and driving it on the street, well I really wouldn't consider my car a 'street car'. If you have a 4.56 rear and have to run race gas then it really isn't practical. (But it sure is fun!) My limit is about a 60 mile round trip. At 5 mpg and $3.75 per gallon it can get expensive! > **** Right, Tom! Your car is very awesome and shows the hard work you have done as well. And much more streetable than many out there that claim to be. I have seen you drive all over Carlisle on the street with the car. Now, folks, realize that Tom is driving a Hemi! Well, also realize that my car is faster than the average Street Hemi from the factory. That does not make mine more awesome than a Hemi. We all know that the Hemi is the ultimate. However, I got my 440 going faster than the factory rides, and Tom has his very streetable Hemi going even faster still. However, I do have one thing over on Tom! I can gas up at any station in the country! :-) ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; Burnt!!!! 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Tue Jun 11 07:38:43 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Fired Right Up - No Oil Pressure Message-ID: <001c01c21144$ec3108c0$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted Moore" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 12:10 AM Subject: Fired Right Up - No Oil Pressure > Dear MMLers, > > Well after months of dis-assembly and re-assembly, the 89 2.5 T1 > LeBaron is finally back together. My biggest fear was that after > replacing the oil pump and doing the rod bearings, I would have an > oil pressure problem. > > It fired right up, but (you got it) - no oil pressure. Now, I did > prime the pump, at least I think I did. Having never done this > before, I put as much oil as I could into the top of the pump, > moved it around and repeated. It sat for a few weeks in the car > before I got around to starting it. I ran the engine for about > ten to 15 seconds three times, saw NO movement on the gauge. > > So now, in trouble shooting mode, I have many questions: > Remove the filter and see if it has oil in it. If it's dry, don't start the engine again. You will need to ask some one how to "pre oil" the engine. If it has oil in it the pump is working. You may have the wire off the oil pressure sender. I have no experience with that engine so I can't offer much help. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Tue Jun 11 07:43:09 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: On 06/10/2002 09:37:56 PM Joe B wrote: > I beg to differ, well on peoples comments about why is it so slow. 12s for a street car is pretty damn good if you ask me. I really doubt you'd lose to many street races if you were to race. My goal was to build an 11 second car, but I dunno sometimes, I don't want to lose the ability to drive it alot. I will be going to the nats, Carlilse, probally even the atlantic nats next year. > **** Thanks, Joe! I think you can build a car pretty close to the 11 mark on today's technology. Remember too, my motor was built on 1989 technology. I refreshed it in 1995, but kept all the same basic pistons and such. This is 1989, not 1969 tech when you could get leaded 100 octane, back in 1989, you could get maybe 92 some places, but 89 was the usual. I have lower compression then either today's stuff or the stuff out there in 1969. Also, I have the Mopar Performance cam, not the Hughs, or the new Comp Purple. My rocker arms are not some super rollers, they are stamped! I spent a lot on this motor and it is still going good, so why change yet? I do plan a Muscle Motors bracket build in the future, which will have the newer technology of the latest rides. Also, I might end up with some Edelbrock or other prepped heads. Back in 1989, you could not get a head like the Edelbrock. The best deal was Chrysler Power, the TTI exhaust people, they built up older 452s. I have 452s built by MeCandless on my ride. So there is a lot out there that could get you very close if not into the 11s. Also, per the Mopar Performance book, my setup should be in the low 13s not the high 12s. ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 11 08:23:50 2002 From: rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net (Tem) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <3D05F9E6.CC2E471D@worldnet.att.net> You all have to remember the T/A and AAR were not released until Feb 14, 1970. This was more than likely to late to have the "J" included in the manual. However, if you will notice what is listed below, you will see that "J" is no longer the designation for a Hemi like it was prior to 1970, but as I have said, it is an "R". T/As and AARs did not use an "M" for "Special Order Engine". Just look at a real one. There is a "J" there. Tem "Karl M." wrote: > Interesting ...... my 70 Chally FSM doesn't list a J code at all. The listed codes are: > > B -198 Cu. In. > C - 225 Cu. In. > E - Special 6 > G - 318 Cu. In. Std. > H - 340 Cu. In. Std. > L - 383 > N - 383 Cu. In. H. P. > R - 426 Cu. In. Hemi > T - 440 Cu. In. Std. > U - 440 Cu. In. H.P. > V - 440 3 X 2 > Z - Special 8 > > Karl M. > > Tem wrote: > > > A 340 Six Pack was a "J" code in 70. Previously, "J" was used for a Hemi, but that was changed to an "R" so > > the "J" could be the 340. > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From harling at attbi.com Mon Jun 10 16:30:19 2002 From: harling at attbi.com (Dan Harling) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil... Message-ID: <000201c210c6$053dcb20$6501a8c0@HARLING> > From: mml@mopar.tamu.edu [mailto:mml@mopar.tamu.edu]On Behalf Of A.J. > Hunt > Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 12:41 PM > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil... > > This stuff goes everywhere, doesn't it? Crankcase, gas, down the carb > for deposit removal...wonder if I can brush my teeth with it? Mmmm, minty fresh... BTW, my Dad bought three of those top oilers about ten years ago from an ad in Old Cars Weekly, and I have one on my Challenger. Between the glass jar and the artwork, look like they were made forty years ago and have been sitting on the shelves ever since. Dan Harling <>< harling@attbi.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 11 08:29:48 2002 From: rm21m9a at worldnet.att.net (Tem) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <3D05FB4C.A5B380B8@worldnet.att.net> Guess I'll jump in on this. I have a TTI 2 1/2" system under my Six Pack Challenger now. It has the Dynomax Super Hemi Turbo muffs. They seem to be "just loud enough" on the highway, not "to loud" at 40, and I did go 12.800 @ 110+ at Norwalk. Once I get traction (GoodYear PolyGlas tires remember) it will ET faster. Guess you can figure out if I like the Walkers or not. Tem Tom Hunsaker wrote: > Joe Barchesky wrote: > > >I beg to differ, well on peoples comments about why is > >it so slow. 12s for a street car is pretty damn good > >if you ask me. I really doubt you'd lose to many > >street races if you were to race. My goal was to > >build an 11 second car, but I dunno sometimes, I don't > >want to lose the ability to drive it alot. I will be > >going to the nats, Carlilse, probally even the > >atlantic nats next year. > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Tue Jun 11 08:50:33 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <005601c2114e$f52689a0$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hank Seestedt" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 5:31 AM Subject: Re: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... > > > On 06/10/2002 10:50:28 PM Tom "Hollywood" Hunsaker wrote: > > > I agree with Hank and others. I also get the 'low 11's? Is that all > you can do?' A lot of people who haven't done it don't realize how > hard those 10th are to knock off. It comes a few 100th at a time. As > far as me running low 11's and driving it on the street, well I really > wouldn't consider my car a 'street car'. If you have a 4.56 rear and > have to run race gas then it really isn't practical. (But it sure is > fun!) My limit is about a 60 mile round trip. At 5 mpg and $3.75 per > gallon it can get > expensive! > > Don't you just love it when some kid tells you his uncle's 58 Buick, runs in the 10's? Happens to me every once and a while. I usually say, "I didn't know there was an 1/8 mile track out here." In Tucson there are a number of 9 and 10 second street cars. Some people have no problem throwing $100,000 at a car. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From drchallenger at hotmail.com Tue Jun 11 08:53:00 2002 From: drchallenger at hotmail.com (DR CHALLENGER) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Please respond directly..... '74 Barracuda options! Message-ID: my email to you was bounced. >From: "Penick" >Reply-To: "Penick" >To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >Subject: Please respond directly..... '74 Barracuda options! >Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 17:29:10 -0400 > >My ISP is not forwarding digests at this time...... > > > Please enlighten me on the options for stripes, hood pins, and rear >wings >on > > the '74 model. > > > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > >To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > >For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Tue Jun 11 08:53:18 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil... Message-ID: <005c01c2114f$57b60370$0300000a@al> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 12:41 PM > > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar > > Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil... > > > > This stuff goes everywhere, doesn't it? Crankcase, gas, down the carb > > for deposit removal...wonder if I can brush my teeth with it? > For "clicky" valve lifters, Rislone works better. Marvel in the gas tank is very good for cleaning up the fuel system. I use it for penetrating oil, it works well at that too. Al To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wgcount at fas.harvard.edu Tue Jun 11 08:58:39 2002 From: wgcount at fas.harvard.edu (Bill Countie) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Fired Right Up - No Oil Pressure Message-ID: Ted, The oil pressure sensor on the turbo engine is right at the place where the oil line to the turbo exits the block. This is just under the nipple where the coolant enters the head. This happened to me on my startup. My oil pressure sender leaked and gave me a reading of 20# cold then dropped from there. I changed the sensor and all was well. Be sure to clean the contacts to the sender first, it is in a bad place for corrosion. Best, Bill Countie 1986 Daytona Turbo Z C/S (TII 555) Best-15.170 @ 96.27 2002 B2500 Ram Wagon 5.9l (MYSOFA) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From gd1996 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 11 09:02:34 2002 From: gd1996 at yahoo.com (Joe Barchesky) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <20020611140234.31041.qmail@web13305.mail.yahoo.com> I don't know how much run you run your car yearly adn race it, but I'd be very happy if when my motor gets together that it runs 12s and lasts that long. 12s in all honesty is pretty fast for a street car, and 11s well thats flying. Sure theres faster that see the road, but not that much, and they can't get gas just anywhere. Just think how nice it would eb if they had 100 octane everywhere. I'd like to get a good street/strip motor together eventaully, and I'll probally go with the edelbrocks. Like the guy said who sold me a good set of done up 906s, the old iron heads are worth doing tons of work on cause its expensive and they won't flow any better than the lighter edelbrocks which would be cheaper. But I got a heck of a deal on mine, so iron heads for now. > **** > Thanks, Joe! I think you can build a car pretty > close to the 11 mark > on today's technology. Remember too, my motor was > built on 1989 > technology. I refreshed it in 1995, but kept all > the same basic > pistons and such. This is 1989, not 1969 tech when > you could get > leaded 100 octane, back in 1989, you could get maybe > 92 some places, > but 89 was the usual. I have lower compression then > either today's > stuff or the stuff out there in 1969. Also, I have > the Mopar > Performance cam, not the Hughs, or the new Comp > Purple. My rocker > arms are not some super rollers, they are stamped! > I spent a lot on > this motor and it is still going good, so why change > yet? I do plan a > Muscle Motors bracket build in the future, which > will have the newer > technology of the latest rides. Also, I might end up > with some > Edelbrock or other prepped heads. Back in 1989, you > could not get a > head like the Edelbrock. The best deal was Chrysler > Power, the TTI > exhaust people, they built up older 452s. I have > 452s built by > MeCandless on my ride. So there is a lot out there > that could get you > very close if not into the 11s. Also, per the Mopar > Performance book, > my setup should be in the low 13s not the high 12s. > ====>>>> > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, > 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; > 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; burnt > 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; > 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From JONATHON.T.ASHLEY at DFAS.MIL Tue Jun 11 09:35:04 2002 From: JONATHON.T.ASHLEY at DFAS.MIL (ASHLEY, JONATHON T (SGT)) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil Message-ID: <30C4A4E1D9E2D511A14C0001FA7EEE44AF1887@CKC-EX-W-2> Where's a good place to buy Marvel Mystery Oil. Honestly I'd never heard of it till about a month ago. I've been looking at all the local auto parts stores with no avail. I saw an add online at autobarn.com, but I really don't want to buy it online. The local Wal-mart doesn't stock it either. I've checked auto-zone and advance auto parts and they don't have it either. Jon Ashley 83 Chrysler New Yorker 5th Ave. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mparsons at dsf.edu Tue Jun 11 09:34:26 2002 From: mparsons at dsf.edu (Mark Parsons) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: More Dorky Newbie Steering ? Message-ID: <012801c21155$cb3f2280$6701a8c0@tstonramp.com> Yes, you can drill and tap the coupler for a grease fitting. Make sure you put the fitting toward the bottom end of the coupler (bottom being toward the steering box). That way, as you grease it pushes up through the coupler and out the seal at the top. Did that on mine, no troubles. --Mark Parsons '65 Bel II (360 /727) '65 Valiant 'vert (project) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Quinn" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 11:22 AM Subject: More Dorky Newbie Steering ? > I was installing my new steering box to column fix kit this past weekend. I > ran into a problem. The pin located on the steering shaft need to be pressed > out? Correct or can I leave it in to reuse it. If I have to replace it do I > pull the shaft out from the interior or what? > > Also, what type of grease do you pack the steering coupler? Can I drill and > tap for a small zerk fitting and pack it that way? > > Thanks > > > > Later... > > Michael in Fullerton, Ca > 1968 Dart GT > 360/727/355. > www.geocities.com/michaeluser > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From DBruno at ljbinc.com Tue Jun 11 09:44:47 2002 From: DBruno at ljbinc.com (DBruno@ljbinc.com) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Chrystler Classic Message-ID: Hi, Is anyone going to the Chrystler Classic in Hamilton, Ohio the weekend of June 22 Dan '66 Coronet '73 Challenger '79 Lebaron '01 Caravan '67 Polara (for parts) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tonyu at roava.net Tue Jun 11 09:47:44 2002 From: tonyu at roava.net (Tony Underwood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil... Message-ID: <200206111047828.SM01136@barfo> At 06:53 Ante 6/11/2002 -0700, Big Al wrote: > >> > Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 12:41 PM >> > To: Multiple recipients of MoPar >> > Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil... >> > >> > This stuff goes everywhere, doesn't it? Crankcase, gas, down the carb >> > for deposit removal...wonder if I can brush my teeth with it? >> > >For "clicky" valve lifters, Rislone works better. Ahh... I too shall sing the praises of Rislone. It's one of the very damned few oil additives that actually does something good for the engine. Best stuff to use if you have a high mileage engine that's crudded up. Rislone will actually dissolve deposits in the pan and oil system, lets you flush the stuff out when you change oil. It only takes a few minutes before the oil starts turning black after you dump a quart of Rislone in the running engine. The stuff works. What's more, if you run it in the oil on a regular basis, the sludge not only goes away, it never seems to form again. tony.. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mparsons at dsf.edu Tue Jun 11 09:56:52 2002 From: mparsons at dsf.edu (Mark Parsons) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil Message-ID: <001901c21158$3a622520$6701a8c0@tstonramp.com> I've seen it in most auto parts stores. Pep Boys definitely has it. They even have the big "my engine has 200,000 miles on it so I'm going to need a lot of this stuff" one gallon economy size. Mark '65 Bel II (360 / 727) '65 Valiant 'vert (project) ----- Original Message ----- From: "ASHLEY, JONATHON T (SGT)" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 7:35 AM Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil > > Where's a good place to buy Marvel Mystery Oil. Honestly I'd never heard of it till about a month ago. I've been looking at all the local auto parts stores with no avail. I saw an add online at autobarn.com, but I really don't want to buy it online. The local Wal-mart doesn't stock it either. I've checked auto-zone and advance auto parts and they don't have it either. > > Jon Ashley > 83 Chrysler New Yorker 5th Ave. > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. > > For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org > > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tonyu at roava.net Tue Jun 11 10:28:47 2002 From: tonyu at roava.net (Tony Underwood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Bee question Message-ID: <200206111128171.SM01136@barfo> Saw a '68 Super-Bee at the cruise-in Sat. It had a Hemi in it. It also had bucket seats, carpet, a console, and a "look but do not touch" card strategically placed... unable to get a look at the VIN. Wish I coulda got a look at the body tag too. The owner claimed the car was all original. I'm wondering... Nice restoration and sharp looking, somebody spent some time and money on the car. But I've never seen a '68 Bee with a console and buckets. Now, in '68 Ma would sell most anything to anybody if you paid for it, but I still wonder... so, anybody ever seen anything like this out of the box? tony.. PS: if it shows up again I'm gonna work on getting a look at the VIN To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From sal1 at qwest.net Tue Jun 11 10:56:20 2002 From: sal1 at qwest.net (Big Al) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil Message-ID: <001101c21160$876d8730$0300000a@al> ----- Original Message ----- From: "ASHLEY, JONATHON T (SGT)" To: "Multiple recipients of MoPar" Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 7:35 AM Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil > > Where's a good place to buy Marvel Mystery Oil. Honestly I'd never heard of it till about a month ago. I've been looking at all the local auto parts stores with no avail. I saw an add online at autobarn.com, but I really don't want to buy it online. The local Wal-mart doesn't stock it either. I've checked auto-zone and advance auto parts and they don't have it either. > > Jon Ashley > 83 Chrysler New Yorker 5th Ave. Wal*Mart To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From tonyu at roava.net Sat Jun 8 09:35:24 2002 From: tonyu at roava.net (Tony Underwood) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: 70 300 Hurst spotted (and title troubles) Message-ID: <200206081039265.SM01136@barfo> At 12:12 Ante 6/8/2002 -0400, Ms68mopar1@aol.com wrote: >Tonight while at Lowe's I ran into a guy in the parking lot with a 70 300 >Hurst. He said they only made about 500 of them. >He said he heard there is one, a convertible, in a junkyard in PA, I can't >remember name of city (sorry) but I can find out. He said there was only 2/3 >of the verts' made. That Linda Vaughn chick used to ride around in a 300 Hurst ragtop at the Spring Nats etc. >He said was titled (for lack of better word on my part) unsalvageable. The other states should do it the way Virginia does it. I did a little research... In VA, DMV records are no longer "paper" and the computer records on any vehicle are purged after ten years if: The car is not registered or tagged in that length of time. The car is not retitled or transferred in that length of time. The VA DMV considers such a vehicle as having been recycled/junked. All computer records on that vehicle are deleted and the vehicle officially ceases to exist. Of course, if you take a title to the DMV and show it to them, the vehicle will be reinstated and it "comes alive" again. However, if such a vehicle is acquired sans title, such as from the back lower overgrown-with-honeysuckle row of a junkyard or the typical "farmers field" etc it can be retitled if it passes a nationwide CRC (state police systems criminal wants/warrants check) for wants/warrants/stolen. Of course, they'll also run the VIN through records to make sure it's not still on file, so first thing before you drag something like this back to your house, run that VIN through the DMV, see if it's on file or stolen etc. Virginia DMV doesn't keep records on warrants/stolen cars, but the state police do, and they don't drop their records after ten years. If the car was stolen 20 years ago, they'll know it. The last thing you wanna do is buy something that's on record as already belonging to someone else, or is wanted by the state cops. Have the car VIN checked before you spend money or effort digging it out of the junkyard or the field etc. If it comes back as not on file anywhere, you're set. You must contact the DMV main offices and apply for an "affidavit in lieu of title" and fill it out, return it to the main DMV offices. It's best to deal directly with the State DMV headquarters offices since in VA this is where all the paperwork goes in any event, and if you do this through the branch offices they will simply mail it off there anyway... send it directly yourself and save a few days. In order to speed things along (although I'm told it's not absolutely necessary and can be gotten around) you should have a bill of sale, signed and dated, so as to demonstrate that you acquired the car "in good faith" and didn't just sneak it off of someones property in the dead of night etc. The DMV and/or the inspector will ask you if you have a bill of sale and will likely wanna see it. The inspector will come by to verify the VIN and that the vehicle you want to retitled is in fact a viable vehicle and that you're not trying to title a "shoebox car". It requires an appointment in VA since they have only *One* guy who does this sort of thing. Just one, goes all over the state checking VINs and inspecting home-built "kit" trailers etc. It's a good idea to make sure you provide him with access to the car so he can check it over at the appointed time and place. You don't have to be present at the time, but you do have to provide complete access to the vehicle, no locked doors or deck lids etc. If the car passes muster, he'll give you a signed-off application for title which you return to your local DMV, pay the title fees, and they issue you a standard vehicle title in your name. No salvage or reconstructed title, no DMV-applied VIN tags. It's yours with the correct standard title bearing the vehicles original VIN. I've done this twice already. It is my understanding that other states/commonwealths in the union (but certainly not all) are going to this sort of system. It's worth the time to check your local DMV and look around, see if they have gone or are going to the simplified system. If not (like NJ) it might be worth your time to suggest they follow VA and others' lead in this area since it not only cuts down the paperwork and bureaucracy bigtime, it makes the restoration and resurrection of older/vintage vehicles (and our hobby) much simpler... and no, it doesn't lead to fraud/falsified titling nor does it retitle stolen vehicles since the car goes through a nation wide records check before the DMV takes a single step forward... should your local DMV employee suggest such. If they do their job, that sort of thing won't happen. Here's hoping that other states do indeed get their act together and make things easier for automotive hobbyists so that more vintage cars can be saved. Unfortunately, some area politicians don't want them saved... so you might have to work on it a while... and look at the positions your area politicians support, see if they are for or against the hobby. Then, vote for the candidate who will support *you*. This is what got VA "clunker laws" vetoed and taxes on vintage cars eliminated, thanks to a governor who was a gearhead himself (and now a Senator). tony.. To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From steve.voelker at sdsu.edu Tue Jun 11 12:13:19 2002 From: steve.voelker at sdsu.edu (Steve Voelker) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: MML BBQ (west) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020611100015.0248a5d8@rohan.sdsu.edu> Hi all, Geez what a drive! I logged over 1300 miles this weekend, so I slept all day yesterday. I just want to say how much fun I had meeting the Bay Area MML'ers at Stu's BBQ. Stu didn't say much about how much work he put in on this shindig, but he was a perfect host- all the BBQ ribs, chicken and sausages we could eat and then some! I brought a cake but nobody had any room for it, and it was redundant next to all the first-class cheesecakes that Stu and his wife Sally laid on. The ale I brought found some enthusiasts, though, so I don't feel like a TOTAL mooch thank goodness! :) It was great meeting Stu and his family, John, Ogre, Jeff, Joe and Cathy, Joanne and her cool Challenger ragtop (383, 4speed and plum crazy, too!). Wingnut is a hoot, and it was great catching up with CopCar George and meeting his wife Abby for the first time. In short, this was the highlight of the weekend. Although roadtesting the 496 stroker and built 727 we ended up buying runs a close second. It was installed in a 70 'Cuda at the time and it's gonna make Eric's '71 Charger a real beast when we get it dialed in. Thanks to everybody in the Bay Area. I'll have to come up again to meet the folks who didn't make it- I would've gone to Dreamlot to check it out but, being based in Fairfield/Vacaville, the distances were getting too great (Sorry Ben!). I guess this gives me an excuse to visit again. I'll be coming up more often if things work out with my Dad; he's trying to get a bank started up in San Jose so you guys might end up seeing more of me than you want! 'Later! - Steve Voelker To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From maark at wrlc.org Tue Jun 11 12:37:13 2002 From: maark at wrlc.org (Got MoPar ? aar.mopar.cc) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:33 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020611133254.00b12c58@wrlc.org> I don't know, a radio DJ was stating the other morning that he had just seen the Fast and the Funny@ss and that he learned a new respect for that kid in the next lane with his hat on backwards and loud stereo. He said that car is probably a 9 or 10 second car!!! There everywhere!!! ROTHLMAO!! ;-). At 06:50 AM 6/11/2002 -0700, you wrote: >In Tucson there are a number of 9 and 10 second street cars. Some people >have no problem throwing $100,000 at a car. Mark Johnson (mAARk) Pasadena, Maryland. '92 Dakota V6/Auto Totaled! 1970 AAR 'Cuda, Sassy Grass Green, 1940 Chrysler Royal Coupe,440/auto 2001 PT Cruiser Deep Cranberry Pearl, Limited Edition, Delivered 9/26/00 !! See my cars and my huge AAR gallery @ http://aar.moparweb.com (Thanks Chris!) To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From mml at heminet.com Tue Jun 11 12:37:06 2002 From: mml at heminet.com (Ted Moore) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:34 2004 Subject: Fired Right Up - (Now) Oil Pressure!! Message-ID: Dear MMLers and SDMLers, It's ALIVE!! Thanks to so many of you who responded. I removed the oil filter and squirted oil (actually oil/T-50 mix) down the hole to the oil pump. Then I put about 1/2 cup (250mL) of oil mix in the filter (so when it was on its side, it almost flowed out). I removed the plugs and shot a squirt of oil mix in each cylinder. I turned it over several times without spark or plugs. Then put the plugs back in and turned it over without spark until I saw the oil gauge pressure begin to move. Hooked up the coil and VOILA!! Runs totally smooth and quiet. New rod bearings, new rack, WooHoo! Now that convertible weather is all but over (110 F), I have to drive it a bit to decide whether to keep it or continue to try and sell it. Hmmm.... must review that convertible Shelby LeBaron concept again (intercooler, white with blue pin stripes). Ted Moore Carefree,AZ www.heminet.com www.TnTNetwork.com 70 RR SOLD! www.heminet.com/mycar.asp?heminetid=7900 75 XCab D200 Adventurer SE 440 Copper; 86 Daytona T1 Z/CS-White; 87 Shelby Lancer(5spd #252) 89 LeBaron www.heminet.com/feature.asp?heminetid=7901 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From hseested at sct.com Tue Jun 11 13:16:08 2002 From: hseested at sct.com (Hank Seestedt) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:34 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: On 06/11/2002 10:02:34 AM Joe Barchesky wrote: > I don't know how much run you run your car yearly adn race it, but I'd be very happy if when my motor gets together that it runs 12s and lasts that long. 12s in all honesty is pretty fast for a street car, and 11s well thats flying. Sure theres faster that see the road, but not that much, and they can't get gas just anywhere. Just think how nice it would eb if they had 100 octane everywhere. > **** Joe, during racing season, I am pretty much going every weekend there is a point's race. I have backed off a bit lately, this year, but that is not because of the car, it is because of me! I am getting over heated and worn out! Some weeks, they have a back to back, and since I drive there, I have to drive back and return the next day! Others who use a trailer leave the car overnight. The thing I have been doing speaks a lot for Mopar 440 motors! If it blew tomorrow, it has lasted longer than so many others! ====>>>> Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, 2 door; 70 Challenger R/T clone, SportsCar; 89 Chrysler TC 5-speed, Maserati heads; burnt 90 Dodge Spirit, rough but goes everywhere; 96 Bad Ram, 2X4, 5.9, 3.91 Sure Grip, LB, R/T mods To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Tue Jun 11 13:55:57 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:34 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <3D0647BD.428BF5CB@sedona.net> I talked to my friend with the 440 six pack Chally and asked him what tires he is using. He uses the MT "street slicks" on his Chally and his wife's Scamp. These are basically a wrinkle wall tire. They don't have much lateral stability when run at racing pressures. By stretching the imagination I guess you could call them street tires. My friends run radials on the front with out any problems. But I don't think on the strip you'd notice any difference between radials or bias ply up front. And where the screwy handling comes in is, on the street going around corners the radials will hold much better than the bias ply so the end with the bias ply tires will loose traction first. Karl M. Hank Seestedt wrote: > On 06/10/2002 11:20:05 PM "Daty Rogers" wrote: > > > I wonder if the MT experience had more to do with radials up front and > bias plys in the back. I understand that makes for really screwy > handling... > >-Daty > > > **** > Daty, I think this is a part of it. I have talked to several > including John Pehlman and all of them say they get this to some > extent when they go down the track. This is why very few, unless they > are within a couple miles, drive to the track with the M/T biased > tires on the back. Certainly not down the turnpike or a freeway! > ====>>>> > Hank, The Lone Racer and Warrior....64 Imperial, -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Tue Jun 11 14:05:16 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:34 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <3D0649EC.A8A70226@sedona.net> That's one hell of a run on bias ply street tires. That would even be a really good time on slicks. Karl M. Tem wrote: > Guess I'll jump in on this. I have a TTI 2 1/2" system under my Six Pack > Challenger now. It has the Dynomax Super Hemi Turbo muffs. They seem to be > "just loud enough" on the highway, not "to loud" at 40, and I did go 12.800 > @ 110+ at Norwalk. Once I get traction (GoodYear PolyGlas tires remember) it > will ET faster. > > Guess you can figure out if I like the Walkers or not. > > Tem > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Tue Jun 11 14:13:45 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:34 2004 Subject: Super Turbo Dynomax mufflers take the Challenger down the track .... Message-ID: <3D064BE9.14B87647@sedona.net> I'm not going to reiterate the entire story but I'll mention the couple of "ricers" hanging out at the grocery store parking lot that told my friends son that they had like 11 or 12 second Hondas (mind you these cars were barely modified at all). After his dad took the first one for a ride in this Chally the rest declined. Most people have no idea what even a true sub 14 second car is really like. By the time you get down to the mid 13 mark it's a pretty brutal ride. Karl M. Big Al wrote: > > Don't you just love it when some kid tells you his uncle's 58 Buick, runs in > the 10's? Happens to me every once and a while. I usually say, "I didn't > know there was an 1/8 mile track out here." > > In Tucson there are a number of 9 and 10 second street cars. Some people > have no problem throwing $100,000 at a car. > > Al > -- Karl M. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From wwatson at direct.ca Tue Jun 11 14:20:48 2002 From: wwatson at direct.ca (Bill Watson) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:34 2004 Subject: vin decoder Message-ID: <003a01c2117d$1c534a80$558c42d8@bill> You won't find the 6-bbl 340 in the sales brochure, either. That's because the AAR and T/A were mid-year introductions while the brochure and FSM were printed in the late summer of 1969, before the introduction of the AAR and T/A. If you found a parts catalogue printed after the introduced of the AAR and T/A, it would list the engine. I don't think Chrysler would have printed an updated FSM with the 340 6-pack, as sales were a little over 5,000 in total, but they may have issued a supplement for it. Bill Vancouver, BC > Interesting ...... my 70 Chally FSM doesn't list a J code at all. The listed codes are: > > B -198 Cu. In. > C - 225 Cu. In. > E - Special 6 > G - 318 Cu. In. Std. > H - 340 Cu. In. Std. > L - 383 > N - 383 Cu. In. H. P. > R - 426 Cu. In. Hemi > T - 440 Cu. In. Std. > U - 440 Cu. In. H.P. > V - 440 3 X 2 > Z - Special 8 > > Karl M. > > Tem wrote: > > > A 340 Six Pack was a "J" code in 70. Previously, "J" was used for a Hemi, but that was changed to an "R" so > > the "J" could be the 340. > > > > "Karl M." wrote: > > > > > If it was an original T/A it would have been the 340 six pack. The FSM for a 70 Chally does not have a > > > letter designation for the 340 - 6 specifically. This seems to be the only engine that is not specifically > > > listed. So I believe it would be a "Z - Special 8". The "340 Standard" was an H code. Strangely the same > > > FSM also covers the Dart. ?????? How did they come up with that combination? If the Chally and Coronet / > > > Charger were together I could understand that. > > > > > > Karl M. > > > > > -- > Karl M. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------- > 69 Sport Satellite, 440, with all the goodies, 14.29 @ 95.3 mph > 67 Dart GT ( going to be 360 ) > 74 Dart Swinger, 318, A/C > 79 D300 Adventurer SE, 440 > > > To unsubscribe send mail to unsubscribe@mopar.tamu.edu. For more information see http://www.moparmailinglist.org From karlm at sedona.net Tue Jun 11 14:32:06 2002 From: karlm at sedona.net (Karl M.) Date: Thu Jun 3 23:27:34 2004 Subject: MML BBQ (west) Message-ID: <3D065036.8322DC40@sedona.net> Now I'm really jealous. I should have dumped my shift on saturday so I could have stayed. But I got you beat Steve. Left the house on wed afternoon, 215329 miles got home about 2 am sat morning with 217270 showing on the odometer. 1941 miles. Then had to get up sat morning and be on duty at 8 am. Ugh. Hopefully I'll be able to make trips like that more frequently when (maybe I should say if) I ever get my Dart running. But it was great seeing Ben and meeting some of the other Dreamlot folks. Hey Ben, tell me about the AMX. Karl M. Steve Voelker wrote: > Hi all, > > Geez what a drive! I logged over 1300 miles this weekend, so I slept all > day yesterday. I just want to say how much fun I had meeting the Bay Area > MML'ers at Stu's BBQ. Stu didn't say much about how much work he put in on > this shindig, but he was a perfect host- all the BBQ ribs, chicken and > sausages we could eat and then some! I brought a cake but nob